continued
As the cowboy commiserated with the stranger, the stranger got around to mentioning that he thought he’d seek lodging for the night, and what was available out here?
“Oh, man,†the cowboy replied; “there’s some problems.
“You could go west of here, and maybe by the time the sun’s up, near Merriman or something, you’ll find a motel. It’ll be first-rate, five-star, top-notch, and all that, but with Regency Park opulence and luxury, you got Regency Park prices.
“There’s a
few mom-and-pop operations between here and out there, places from the 1920s that were miniature separated cabins, but now’s their busy season, and they got no room. They’re full up with construction workers who rent by the month, and made their reservations last year.
“They’re nice places, neat and clean and all that, and the food can’t be beat, but you got no more chance of finding one with a vacant room than nadin does of marrying Prince Harry.â€
Hmmmm, the stranger said. “But where do people stay when they’re up here?â€
“A motel would go broke around here,†the cowboy explained, “because there’s no call for one.
“For baptisms, weddings, funerals, family reunions, high-school class reunions, during blizzards and other sorts of disasters, hunting seasons, harvest time, people not from here just stay with other people, usually family and friends.
“We’ve got big houses here, plenty of room even for strangers, and it’s an insult to us if somebody doesn’t want to stay with us.
“There’s plenty of places to camp, and some privately-owned hunters’ cabins, and the weather’s fine right now, but you don’t look as if you’re tough enough to survive the outdoor life.â€
The cowboy suddenly thought of something else.
“You know, stranger, it wouldn’t be a good idea to keep on going yet tonight.
“Right in front of you lays your most formidable obstacle to getting west, and it’s best to get through it during the day, never at night.
“Here, you’re on the eastern slope of the Sandhills of Nebraska—Merriman, where dutch508 lives, is on the western slope—and you’re going to have to cross 250 miles of the most daunting, the most fearsome, the most grueling, the most arduous, the most draining, terrain in all of the continent.
“Going through the passes of the Rockies in a raging blizzard or speeding across the deserts of Nevada on a hot day in summer aren’t even child’s play, compared with getting through the Sandhills.
“The Sandhills are about a third of Nebraska, but only a few thousand people live out there, and usually on its fringes, not inside of them. I have a neighbor however who grew up right in the middle of them.
“It was a good thing the pioneers headed west alongside the Platte River, but the Sandhills are north of that, and nobody at the time knew they were up there. If they’d run up against the Sandhills, they would’ve turned around and gone back east, and the west would’ve never gotten settled.
“The Sandhills aren’t mountains, being rather rolling hills, and there’s plenty of water out there, but there’s something about the land and the sky that terrifies all but the most extraordinary sorts of people.
“When out in the Sandhills, one finally understands what Eternity, Infinity, God, is.
“The limitless of it all drives people stark raving mad; someone raised in the Sandhills of Nebraska would feel claustrophobic in the ‘Big Sky’ country of Montana, or way out on the moon.
“Of course, it’s only a perception distorted by the way the land and sky are, and the atmospheric and climatic conditions, but still, this feeling of seeing Infinity makes people feel uncomfortable; they don’t like it and want to get out of there as quickly as possible, to some other place where there’s boundaries and limits to what they can see and define.
“And that’s on a nice day in spring.
“A Sandhills storm is a sight to see—that is, unless one’s a native of there, in which case it’s rather ordinary and boring—lightning-bolts running horizontal with the ground a hundred miles away, 350 miles in length as it races across the land, a five-minute rain-shower that unleashes the electrical power of ten million Hiroshimas, the fury of relentless winds.
“Of course, such weather exists everywhere on earth, but in the Sandhills one can
see it, grasping how large and terrible the forces of nature are, when compared with all the trite puny combined efforts of mankind to cool, or heat up, or pollute, the world.
“It’s best for you to go through during the day, not at night.
“Nebraskans—city-dwellers, country dwellers—are known, and deservedly so, for being a distinctive, hearty, robust, vigorous, moral and principled sort of people, but even
we aren’t nothing, when compared with a Sandhillsian, someone who’s actually stood in the Presence of God, and seen God.â€
Just then, someone passed by the cowboy and the stranger, pausing long enough to gently squeeze the cowboy’s upper left arm, silently indicating his presence, and then proceeded without a word on to the back of the bar.
to be continued