The Conservative Cave
Current Events => The DUmpster => Topic started by: franksolich on March 31, 2013, 06:38:54 PM
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http://www.democraticunderground.com/11581862
Oh my.
Remember, don't confuse this Kali primitive with the bitter old Vermontese cali primitive; this Kali primitive lives way down in southernmost Texas.
Kali (32,683 posts) Sun Mar 31, 2013, 06:03 PM
need metal-to-wood glue advice (or other ideas)
bought a cheaply made "wood" office chair. the "wood" is some kind of pine laminate. it is held together by bolts that screw into these little metal inserts that themselves screw into the wood. one arm keeps coming loose and when I go to tighten the bolts, they just back the little inserts out. I tried liquid nails household glue (because the kid I sent to the hardware store didn't get the regular liquid nails I had wanted) but it came loose right away. is there some other product that will bind to the metal well and also kind of seep into the wood grain rather than just stick to the surface? anything just surface-sticking comes right off as the wood is so light and cheap.
I have JB Weld in the house, but I don't think it is good for wood, is it? Anybody try gorilla glue? Should I stay with the original plan to use liquid nails? Other ideas for getting this thing to stay put?
here are some pix:
the parts in question
after which photograph of two screws
insert part way in
after which photograph of side of chair
both inserts in
after which second photograph of side of chair
arm in place
after which third photograph of side of chair
NYC_SKP (47,846 posts) Sun Mar 31, 2013, 06:08 PM
1. I would go with a two part epoxy for wood. Not JB and not Gorilla Glue.
Though if faced with a choice, with wood, I'd go with the Gorilla Glue because it expands and JB doesn't.
JB is great for metals, not so much for wood.
<<<is curious about how Skip in New York City would know anything about wood-working.
Kali (32,683 posts) Sun Mar 31, 2013, 06:14 PM
3. hmmm
didn't even know there was epoxy for wood
I have seen that gorilla glue so many times but never tried it for anything. duck tape, silicon sealer, JB weld and baling wire are my main repair ingredients.
And then Ugly butts in:
Warpy (67,868 posts) Sun Mar 31, 2013, 06:11 PM
2. I would probably fill the holes with plastic wood and carefully screw those inserts into it. Then let it dry and cure for at least 48 hours before screwing the bolts back in.
And if that didn't work and I couldn't find bigger inserts and bolts at the hardware store that might work, I'd just say to hell with it and get a better chair.
Kali (32,683 posts) Sun Mar 31, 2013, 06:15 PM
4. ooh wood putty
is that what you are talking about? I think I might even have some somewhere around here. from back in 2000 when I sanded the floor and still haven't put the finish on it.
NYC_SKP (47,846 posts) Sun Mar 31, 2013, 07:00 PM
5. No. I disagree. Plastic wood is good as a filler, but not as a structural additive.
Trust me, two part epoxy specifically for wood or Gorilla Glue.
The more I think about it despite my original reply, the more I like the Gorilla Glue approach.
It really does kind of bubble up and fill in spaces, and the final product isn't too brittle or hard, has good tensile and compressive strength.
The caveat is that because it expands, be sure to use a clamp or strong tape for the 20 minutes it will take to cure.
Do it.
<<<wouldn't take advice about wood-working from a primitive who lives in New York City.
It'd be like taking advice about fixing a furnace from a primitive who lives in Casablanca.
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Buy an expensive,union made chair you cheapskate.
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Buy an expensive,union made chair you cheapskate.
Didn't look for the union label did you DUmmie.......oh......it had one......Soviet Union doesn't count.
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Throw the piece of junk in the dumpster and go buy a $5.00 office chair at Goodwill.
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WTF? Just use bigger wood screws that will tighten up into the wood hole, or just use a longer nut and bolt that goes through both pieces. :panic: