The Conservative Cave
Current Events => The DUmpster => Topic started by: franksolich on April 29, 2012, 06:50:43 AM
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http://www.democraticunderground.com/1158879
Oh my.
LiberalEsto (13,692 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
Bathtub dilemma
We have a 1967 pink bathtub that has seen better days. The surface has worn off in one spot.
My son-in-law is going to remodel the bathroom, including removing old tile and drywall, and putting up new water-resistant drywall.
We're hoping to find tile at the Habitat ReStore. We have limited finances.
I am not sure whether to replace the tub, have it painted with tub paint, or something else.
I've heard that tub paint smells horrible for days. But moving the old tub out sounds like a very hard job and I'm not sure if the plumbing connections will match up with the new tub..
I'd be grateful for any suggestions.
Tesha (20,552 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
1. Well, the only plumbing connection for most built-in tubs is the drain and they're usually...
...pretty flexible.
The supply lines are wall mounted.
jeff47 (3,606 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
2. Tubs have been standard for a very, very long time
So the plumbing should line up. As a sibling poster mentioned, the only built-in plumbing is the drain, and the drain parts have a good amount of play in them to line up to the tub.
The main thing you found in tubs from the 60s that you can not find today are "closed end" tubs. Today, all tubs are constructed as if there are walls on 3 sides of the tub. Back in the 60s, you could get tubs that only needed 2 walls - one of the short sides was finished and meant to be seen. So if you currently have a closed-end tub and want to replace it, you'll have to build at least a short wall on that end. This can be a big problem in that there's often not enough room to add a wall - it effectively makes your tub 2-5" longer.
One other factor if you pull the tub is you will have to replace at least the bottom row of tile, if the walls are tiled. If they're not tile, you will probably have to replace the entire tub surround.
Painting prevents these problems, obviously. But in my experience paint is just extending the life of the tub - it's not going to last anywhere near as long as a new tub. Actual time will depend on how often the tub is used. At that point, you'd have to paint again or replace the tub.
As for the smell, I'd recommend keeping the door closed, the window open, and a fan in the window blowing out. The more air you can get through the room the faster the smell will go away.
The defrocked warped primitive, she with the face like Hindenberg's, who's been banned for life from nursing:
Warpy (63,070 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
3. I used the tub paint and it got brittle over time, failing in about 5 years.
The smell was awful, but open windows and an exhaust fan cured it.
If I wanted to keep the tub (which I don't, it's hard to get into for a shower and too shallow for anyone over the age of five), I'd get a company to fabricate a once piece tub and fibreglas insert and install it. Taken care of, that would likely last a lifetime, fitted over the tub and very sturdy. The main problem with fibreglas is the fact that it scratches, so clear liquid cleaners should be used, not abrasives.
The fibreglas inserts, while pricey, are cheaper than replacing the tub and will give decades of service. It's actually the most economical way of dealing with an unsightly tub in a more or less permanent way.
Hassin Bin Sober (5,485 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
4. If you decide to tile, please re-think the use of "water resistant" drywall in the tub area.
That stuff sucks. It's hardly water resistant and if WILL fail.
Stick with a cement based board like Durarock of Hardie Backer (both sold at Home Depot). I prefer the Hardie backer.
Use a sheet plastic vapor barrier over the studs. Drape the vapor barrier over the edge of the tub and install your wall cement board using recommended screws (not drywall screws). Trim the excess plastic protruding under the cement board. Fill the seams in with thinset and mesh (alkali resistant) tape.
You should be able to find your tile, grout AND thinset at Habitat. Last couple times I was in a Habitat store they hand tons of the tile and thinset. You will probably find the powdered thinset that requires mixing but the powdered is superior to the bucket pre-mixed thinset anyway (and cheaper). Heck, you can probably find a tub as well. And caulk (stick with 100% silicone).
Let us know how you make out.
femmocrat (11,667 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
5. How about Bathfitter?
It's an acrylic liner system. I haven't seen them, but my SIL had it installed in her mother's old bathroom and she was happy with it.
benld74 (3,242 posts) Profile Journal Send DU Mail Ignore
6. We removed the tub in our 1st floor bathroom. Turned it into very large walk in shower!
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A friend of mine did the fiberglass inserts on 1 tub and 1 shower and it came out great, it didn't cost a lot either.
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I don't know why the DUmmies are obsessing over bathtubs or showers.
It's not like they will actually USE them. :lmao:
http://www.electstevedawes.com
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I don't know why the DUmmies are obsessing over bathtubs or showers.
It's not like they will actually USE them. :lmao:
http://www.electstevedawes.com
Yeah. Cheap garden hose and the hottest day of the year doesn't cost much.
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Yeah. Cheap garden hose and the hottest day of the year doesn't cost much.
JR, they won't use those, either. I refer you to DD's post . . . :tongue: :fuelfire:
And, the only "bathing" that most of them do is when they get blasted by a water cannon at a protest.
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After seeing those picture threads, I figured it was that the tub was too small.
BTW, green wall board is MILDEW resistant, not water.