The Conservative Cave
Current Events => The DUmpster => Topic started by: franksolich on November 14, 2010, 08:27:16 PM
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http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=287x8945
Oh my.
Steerpike (1000+ posts) Wed Nov-10-10 05:14 AM
Original message
I can't get my dielectric union off
I drained the boiler and turned off the gas and unplugged it. Once the DU stopped leaking water I took a plumbers wrench to it. It just will not budge! Is it soldered? Do I need a torch? Should I saw it off? What is an ez saw?
Hey, if anyone can give a little advice I would really appreciate it...thanks!
Here is the culprit
after which a photograph of a really messed up machine, lime build-up, rust, corrosion
Hassin Bin Sober (1000+ posts) Wed Nov-10-10 12:08 PM
Response to Original message
1. Yikes.
It's not soldered.
I would try to clean in up with a wire brush so you can apply some sort of penetrating solvent like WD-40. Let it sit overnight - perhaps re-apply periodically.
Steerpike (1000+ posts) Wed Nov-10-10 12:11 PM
Response to Reply #1
2. Hassin!
Thank you so much sir! Plus I just found that it is not "code" anymore...so I will replace this with brass...dielectric unions suck!
Warpy (1000+ posts) Wed Nov-10-10 12:24 PM
THE DEFROCKED WARPED PRIMITIVE, #09 TOP PRIMITIVE OF 2009
Response to Original message
3. Sorry, but that doesn't look like a homeowner job
Corrosion isn't just bad, it's extreme. They might just need to saw things apart and rethread the stubs to get something to work.
Steerpike (1000+ posts) Wed Nov-10-10 12:32 PM
Response to Reply #3
4. yeah
I could do that...just a ez saw...or a recipricating saw with "metal" blades...it does look pretty bad! When it leaks it causes mineral build up and corrosion. The DU is supposed to prevent the two different metals from forming a battery-like current that will attract minerals etc...but these "unions" always seem to fail and cause leaks...which leads to the very same thing they purport to prevent...or something like that...
Wash. state Desk Jet (1000+ posts) Wed Nov-10-10 01:23 PM
Response to Original message
5. wd40
spray it up good. do it more than once. spray it let it penetrate for an hour and spray it up again.And you will need more than one wrench.
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Another DUmmies about to apply for a Darwin Award. This is bad how, exactly?
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Another DUmmies about to apply for a Darwin Award. This is bad how, exactly?
that thing looks like it's been corroding since Lyndon Johnson was in the White House.
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WD-40?! Seriously? I'd hate to know what else they think you can use that stuff for.
If the primitive desires to use a penetrant, I would recommend breaking out the Kroil, Knock'er Loose, or PB Blaster, in that order. If you are lucky, you might get that thing to budge.
Maybe.
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Sadly its only a short time B4 they call me but only after they have it FUBR! Oh and they wont empty the cat box that is inevitably next to it!
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Once again, a primitive shows us why they shouldn't be allowed to own homes. That looks to my amateur eye like something that should have been addressed at least twenty years ago.
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WD-40?! Seriously? I'd hate to know what else they think you can use that stuff for.
If the primitive desires to use a penetrant, I would recommend breaking out the Kroil, Knock'er Loose, or PB Blaster, in that order. If you are lucky, you might get that thing to budge.
Maybe.
:rotf: I was thinking the same thing. WD-40 has got to be the most useless "penetrant" out there. Looking at that union....He first needs to clean all the lime buildup from around it with a wire brush and then try pb blaster but i seriously doubt that will even work at this point. I vote for propane torch and the biggest longest pipe wrench the dummy owns. Other than that....Saw-zall time! :-)
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Oh! and one more thing....way to keep up with the maintenance of that boiler dummy! How long has that union been leaking like that for there to be that much buildup? :rotf:
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So I rowed over and took a look. Ye Gods! This is why I have a professional come take a look at the furnace system each year. No messing around.
This whole sorry mess looks like it would end in a tragic Franksolich short story.
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So I rowed over and took a look. Ye Gods! This is why I have a professional come take a look at the furnace system each year. No messing around.
This whole sorry mess looks like it would end in a tragic Franksolich short story.
Neighbor, it's only tragic if it happens to you, or someone you like. Otherwise, it's a comedy. :cheersmate: :fuelfire: :tongue:
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WD40 is not a penetrating solvent. WD40 (Water Displacement formula 40) is intended to stop rust nothing more. Kroil, PB Blaster, and Liquid wrench are penetrating solvents.
It really is sad to think the DUchebags are so utterly ill equipped to deal with the world. If the civil war that the DUmmys want so much comes to happen, we will win by just letting their infrastructure crumble. Once they are at Zimbabwe status we can walk in with candy bars for the natives with not a shot fired.
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Well now that's quite a mess, a wire brush and penetrating oil would help, though, and since NPT threads taper they come apart surprisingly easy once you overcome any residual doping or joint compound sealing them. Assuming you use the correct tools, which is a huge longshot with DUmmies involved.
Ditto on all the WD-40 comments, it's essentially just kerosene. All it does is displace water and carry away anything that'll dissolve in kerosene, it evaporates rather quickly and you have to follow it up with a protective oil or the rust monster comes back with renewed strength after it dries out.
I like Liquid Wrench for a penetrating oil myself, but I haven't really tried the other brands mentioned.
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Well now that's quite a mess, a wire brush and penetrating oil would help, though, and since NPT threads taper they come apart surprisingly easy once you overcome any residual doping or joint compound sealing them. Assuming you use the correct tools, which is a huge longshot with DUmmies involved.
Ditto on all the WD-40 comments, it's essentially just kerosene. All it does is displace water and carry away anything that'll dissolve in kerosene, it evaporates rather quickly and you have to follow it up with a protective oil or the rust monster comes back with renewed strength after it dries out.
I like Liquid Wrench for a penetrating oil myself, but I haven't really tried the other brands mentioned.
I swear by PB Blaster but have found Cyclo "Break Away" excellent as well.
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I've tried Liquid Wrench. I used half the can and still couldn't budge the bolts I was trying to remove. Ended up breaking two of them.
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I've tried Liquid Wrench. I used half the can and still couldn't budge the bolts I was trying to remove. Ended up breaking two of them.
For non-NPT threads (SAE, metric, Armstrong, Acme, etc.), sometimes a torch is the only thing that'll really make a difference. If the bolt actually goes through the piece it screws into, instead of a blind hole, it's critical to lube and wirebrush the crap out of the threads that protrude on the other side. Failing to do that will very often result in twisting the bolt in two, when the corrosion on the protruding section gets pulled up into the mating surface and jams...it's like trying to pull Charley Rangel through a tax audit without damage, it just won't fit.
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I'm glad I did this with a spare part. I'm paranoid about doing this to one of my cars, but I need to be able to unbolt the exhaust manifold and pull it away from the motor to replace the gaskets.
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Hey, don't knock WD-40. It's one of the best things around for rendering a round of ammunition useless. We used to keep a bucket of it handy at the range for tossing our misfired rounds into.
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Yeah, it's certainly penetrant enough to ruin primers on ammo that doesn't have a thorough and intact lacquer seal.
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Once again, a primitive shows us why they shouldn't be allowed to own homes.
Case closed. :lmao:
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That's beyond wrenching! The only hope for that is a sawzall and a new boiler!
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Bad, bad liberals.
WD-40 is petroleum based AND it was used to protect NUCLEAR MISSILES.
They should be morally repulsed by such a product.
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...it's like trying to pull Charley Rangel through a tax audit without damage, it just won't fit.
Awesome, sir!
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Well now that's quite a mess, a wire brush and penetrating oil would help, though, and since NPT threads taper they come apart surprisingly easy once you overcome any residual doping or joint compound sealing them. Assuming you use the correct tools, which is a huge longshot with DUmmies involved.
Ditto on all the WD-40 comments, it's essentially just kerosene. All it does is displace water and carry away anything that'll dissolve in kerosene, it evaporates rather quickly and you have to follow it up with a protective oil or the rust monster comes back with renewed strength after it dries out.
I like Liquid Wrench for a penetrating oil myself, but I haven't really tried the other brands mentioned.
PB Blaster is my current choice, it works pretty good. I think it's a little better than Liquid Wrench.