The Conservative Cave
Interests => Around the House & In the Garage => Topic started by: ironhorsedriver on March 24, 2009, 05:52:46 AM
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Anybody here ever hot wired their Glow Plugs to an intermittant switch? My old 350 is played out and I'm tired of replacing controllers. Tired of ether too. I'm thinking of hot wiring through the relay.
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Around here it was common to wire a toggle switch (get a momentary,self centering one) and using that when starting.
Glow plugs won`t stand long use so it needs to be limited to a few seconds.
I don`t think it applies to you but as far as ether goes....never use that and also be using glow plugs.
I take it you were using some because the glow plugs weren`t working but just in case anyone is lurking and not understand the danger.
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Yea, I can crank all day, nothing. I put the lamp across the plugs, nothing. The plugs go bad at least once a year, but my controller is on-going. All my problems started when the metal in the fuel filter failed do to fatigue. I had to put an assembly of off a International tractor because no dealer or supply house could get me the filter assy. So, my fuel probably doesn't get any pre-heat. I even put a electric pump in line as a booster, thought it might be a pressure issue on start up. That hasn't cured it either. I've aqbout reached wits end with the starting issue.
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New plugs, toggle, the old girl is up and running. Now, another question. Any one ever put a single pole alternator on their truck. This thing also has a habit of eating alternators, 1 a year. It does have dual batteries. I'm thinking about wiring a single pole, wire from alt to amp gauge to hot wire on the starter. Bypass the regulator completely. Any thoughts on this, pros and cons?
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New plugs, toggle, the old girl is up and running. Now, another question. Any one ever put a single pole alternator on their truck. This thing also has a habit of eating alternators, 1 a year. It does have dual batteries. I'm thinking about wiring a single pole, wire from alt to amp gauge to hot wire on the starter. Bypass the regulator completely. Any thoughts on this, pros and cons?
I wouldent do it. Without a regulator you'll produce too much voltage. If you are losing diodes in the alt (?), you may want to try a higher current (capability) alt.
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I wouldent do it. Without a regulator you'll produce too much voltage. If you are losing diodes in the alt (?), you may want to try a higher current (capability) alt.
Thanks, I'll give that a try first.
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I wouldent do it. Without a regulator you'll produce too much voltage. If you are losing diodes in the alt (?), you may want to try a higher current (capability) alt.
If it is a "one wire" self exciting alternator based on the old 10si Delcotron the voltage would be okay as it has a special internal regulator for that.
I have put them on tractors to replace generators or troublesome Motorolas but wouldn`t do it on a passenger vehicle.
The wiring is too complex and the external regulator is also probably serving as a junction point.
It might work for charging but something else could go haywire.
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I wouldent do it. Without a regulator you'll produce too much voltage. If you are losing diodes in the alt (?), you may want to try a higher current (capability) alt.
True.
The mass produced "autozone" type electric parts don't last very long either. Even the lifetime warranty parts are no good if you have to eat the labor.
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I installed an alternator on a 72 Olds Cutlass that had an internal regulator. Originally, it had an alternator with an external regulator. As I remember, it wasn't all that difficult and I didn't have any electrical problems afterwards. IF your vehicle is eating alternators, two things to check, 1.) that it's the proper sized alternator for a diesel vehicle; and 2.) that your water pump is the right water pump. I know it sounds goofy, but if the shaft length on the water pump isn't correct, it will cause the bearings to go out in the alternator. GMs are especially prone to having a few different water pumps for the same vehicle.
Ohhh, and I would recommend changing the toggle switch to a momentary on pushbutton switch. ;)
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I installed an alternator on a 72 Olds Cutlass that had an internal regulator. Originally, it had an alternator with an external regulator. As I remember, it wasn't all that difficult and I didn't have any electrical problems afterwards. IF your vehicle is eating alternators, two things to check, 1.) that it's the proper sized alternator for a diesel vehicle; and 2.) that your water pump is the right water pump. I know it sounds goofy, but if the shaft length on the water pump isn't correct, it will cause the bearings to go out in the alternator. GMs are especially prone to having a few different water pumps for the same vehicle.
Ohhh, and I would recommend changing the toggle switch to a momentary on pushbutton switch. ;)
Yup, I remember when looking at SBC's (hotrodding/rebuild candidates)) we had to look down at the water pump to see if it was a "tall" or "short". You could tell by the gap between the back of the pump and the block.