Author Topic: 1973 MG B  (Read 157613 times)

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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #400 on: October 08, 2012, 07:41:37 PM »
Isn't that the purpose of the zinc additive?  I used 15w40 Rotella with my last oil change but it seemed too thin and my oil pressure dropped as then engine got hotter.  I picked up a jug of regular Valvoline 20w50 and a quart of NDDP.  My oil pressure is fine but my engine seems a little sluggish and takes more effort to rev than it did previously. 

Yeah, that's the purpose of the zinc additive.  Any oil you use will be fine with the zinc additive. 

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #401 on: October 08, 2012, 07:47:50 PM »
I noticed some oil leaks last week that I didn't previously.  Good thing it was my sister's driveway and not mine. :evil:

I'm going to have to crawl under there and clean off the underside.  The drivetrain is filthy (the floorpan looks clean, though).  I have to have oil coming from somewhere. 

I have that stone patio finish on my driveway.  Unless it's obvious, it's sometimes hard to catch small leaks.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2012, 08:01:32 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #402 on: October 09, 2012, 08:22:13 PM »
Where do you buy your windshield wipers from?  The ones that came with the car were worn down to nubs and I've bought a dozen plastic ones from the auto parts store that all end up breaking where the wiper connects to the arm.

I ended up buying new metal-bodied blades from Victoria British because I can't get rubber refills here without buying the entire blade that doesn't work.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #403 on: October 09, 2012, 09:21:12 PM »
I have been using Anco 3110 wipers.  They have a metal body, with a plastic connector that installs on B's wiper arm. 

That is what was on the car when I bought it (the blades had just went bad), and they appear to be hold up well.  I have never had one slip off, break, etc., even in icy weather.   

On my other B, I just bought two 20" wiper blades (I don't remember the brand), and cut them down to 10". 

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #404 on: October 09, 2012, 09:25:46 PM »
The plastic connector is where mine have been breaking.  I went with 10- or 11-inch blades, but the VB catalog specifies between plastic and (I assume) metal connectors.

You used to get adapters for the slide-on or J-hook connectors years ago but the parts stores don't seem to have them anymore.  Everywhere I went in Wylie was a new store in some strip mall hell that didn't have anything more than five years old.
« Last Edit: October 09, 2012, 09:32:35 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #405 on: October 09, 2012, 09:35:03 PM »
The plastic connector is where mine have been breaking.  I went with 10- or 11-inch blades, but the VB catalog specifies between plastic and (I assume) metal connectors.

You used to get adapters for the slide-one or J-hook connectors years ago but the parts stores don't seem to have them anymore.  Everywhere I went in Wylie was a new store in some strip mall hell that didn't have anything more than five years old.

This right here is what I used:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ANC-31-10/?rtype=10

If you squint, you can see the connector piece that attaches to the wiper arm.  O'Reillys and Autozone here both carry that item, as it is the rear wiper replacement for a lot of vehicles.

Once you find some connectors that work, along with some arms, you can just get the cheapest blades that fit, and cut them down to size.  That's what I've been doing with the rear wiper on my Volvo 850. 


Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #406 on: October 09, 2012, 09:35:49 PM »
An 11" blade is just a smidge too long.  My brother bought some of those for his B, and the middle wiper rubbed a little at the top of the windshield.

Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #407 on: October 10, 2012, 02:01:27 PM »
An 11" blade is just a smidge too long.  My brother bought some of those for his B, and the middle wiper rubbed a little at the top of the windshield.

I remember removing the middle wiper but I don't remember what I used for the other two.  I was working at an auto parts when I owned it an probably just grabbed a couple that worked right once it was gone.  It is as superflurous as Crusty the Clown's third nipple.

I drove it in New England in the snow so I  also use winter grade booted wipers on it as well.  As a parts store manager I got a great discount on stuff.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #408 on: October 10, 2012, 06:50:44 PM »
I remember removing the middle wiper but I don't remember what I used for the other two.  I was working at an auto parts when I owned it an probably just grabbed a couple that worked right once it was gone.  It is as superflurous as Crusty the Clown's third nipple.

I drove it in New England in the snow so I  also use winter grade booted wipers on it as well.  As a parts store manager I got a great discount on stuff.

It marginally adds to the wiper coverage for the front windscreen.  It was one of our U.S. regulations that required the wipers to have a certain amount of coverage that caused the middle on to sprout on export cars.

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #409 on: October 11, 2012, 02:39:21 PM »
The new wipers arrived and have been installed.  They were about $12 each (shipping was a couple dollars), about twice what the plastic ones go for with the same blade.

Ever since I got back from Texas, my car seems louder and down on power.  I'm going to have to see if I can find an exhaust leak somewhere.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #410 on: October 14, 2012, 11:37:38 PM »
The new wipers work fine.  I found the source of the noise... I've been driving around with the top up and it turns the inside of the car into a huge echo chamber.  Too bad, I was considering buying a hardtop for the car (OEM or aftermarket).  I think I need to invest in some sound deadening, but I need to take care of the surface rust on the floor pans before I go sticking stuff to them.

I went looking at the different undercoats at the car show this weekend.  I swear it looks like someone sprayed the underside of my car with that industrial rustproofing/fire retardant material they spray on metal-framed buildings.  It's lumpy and white... if you've seen the inside of a multi-story office building, you know what I'm talking about.

I found the source of one of my leaks.  The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl.  I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #411 on: October 15, 2012, 06:34:33 AM »
The new wipers work fine.  I found the source of the noise... I've been driving around with the top up and it turns the inside of the car into a huge echo chamber.  Too bad, I was considering buying a hardtop for the car (OEM or aftermarket).  I think I need to invest in some sound deadening, but I need to take care of the surface rust on the floor pans before I go sticking stuff to them.

I went looking at the different undercoats at the car show this weekend.  I swear it looks like someone sprayed the underside of my car with that industrial rustproofing/fire retardant material they spray on metal-framed buildings.  It's lumpy and white... if you've seen the inside of a multi-story office building, you know what I'm talking about.

I found the source of one of my leaks.  The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl.  I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.
You might want to take a look at this page then,

http://www.por15.com/

It is what we used on the floor pans in my Barracuda.  I seem to remember it is expensive but if you are only doing a small area well worth the money.  The trunk on the 'Cuda was shot with the more traditional undercoating to deaden sound which sounds a bit like what you described.  I will see if I have pictures of it the two apps on line. 


I know we discussed shooting the entire trunk area in the color of the car but opted for the undercoat material for the sound dampening and lesser anount of prep work.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #412 on: October 15, 2012, 08:10:34 AM »
I've tried POR-15 and don't care for it.  You can buy the components individually... the only one that matters is the rust converter.  One part of the kit is simply an industrial-strength degreaser you can buy at any hardware store.  The other one is just a can of paint.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #413 on: October 15, 2012, 06:14:15 PM »
Quote
I found the source of one of my leaks.  The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl.  I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.

I am assuming you are talking about the one that pinches between the door and windshield frame, when you shut the door?

Those are just pop-riveted in, IIRC. 

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #414 on: October 28, 2012, 12:20:43 PM »
Correct.

I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car.  Has anyone used Apple before?
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #415 on: October 28, 2012, 12:41:46 PM »
Correct.

I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car.  Has anyone used Apple before?

No.  I did however rebuild my own lever shocks once upon a time and it was not all that bad.  Cleanliness is key to success in any hydraulic repair.  Well that, and knowing when things are spring loaded.  :whatever:
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #416 on: October 28, 2012, 01:33:00 PM »
Correct.

I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car.  Has anyone used Apple before?

My brother put Apple into his B.  He did so based upon referrals from others who have.  They are absolutely top-notch. 

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #417 on: October 28, 2012, 02:40:07 PM »
No.  I did however rebuild my own lever shocks once upon a time and it was not all that bad.  Cleanliness is key to success in any hydraulic repair.  Well that, and knowing when things are spring loaded.  :whatever:
:lmao:
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #418 on: November 30, 2012, 07:14:06 PM »
Hey, that car looks familiar.

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-OV2GINa2Y[/youtube]
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #419 on: December 01, 2012, 08:48:28 PM »
I've been driving my MG since my Toyota is MIA... good thing work is only 2 miles from home.  I had the top down today since it was in the high 60's.  A '68 MGB pulled up behind me on the way home.  It was painted red like every other MGB on the road seems to be.

The world works in funny ways.
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Offline Eupher

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #420 on: December 01, 2012, 10:00:08 PM »
I was surprised at how tiny the MG is.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #421 on: December 01, 2012, 10:00:30 PM »
You get used to it.

The Midget/Sprite is even smaller.
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Offline Eupher

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #422 on: December 01, 2012, 10:02:40 PM »
No, thanks. I'll keep driving my minivan.

I need room to haul all my horns. Those dinky cars just don't cut it that way.
Adams E2 Euphonium, built in 2017
Boosey & Co. Imperial Euphonium, built in 1941
Edwards B454 bass trombone, built 2012
Bach Stradivarius 42OG tenor trombone, built 1992
Kanstul 33-T BBb tuba, built 2011
Fender Precision Bass Guitar, built ?
Mouthpiece data provided on request.

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #423 on: December 01, 2012, 10:04:18 PM »
They're definitely not made for moving anything other than a couple of behinds.  I tried to capture the scale of how small these cars are at this year's show.  Here's a Midget and a TR4.



« Last Edit: December 01, 2012, 10:06:32 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Eupher

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #424 on: December 01, 2012, 10:07:07 PM »
I might be able to get my euph in the back seat, but certainly not the bass trombone.

Don't even talk to me about the tuba.  :lmao:
Adams E2 Euphonium, built in 2017
Boosey & Co. Imperial Euphonium, built in 1941
Edwards B454 bass trombone, built 2012
Bach Stradivarius 42OG tenor trombone, built 1992
Kanstul 33-T BBb tuba, built 2011
Fender Precision Bass Guitar, built ?
Mouthpiece data provided on request.