Author Topic: 1973 MG B  (Read 157706 times)

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #975 on: May 06, 2015, 11:58:02 PM »
Time to start shopping for a paint job, but my limit is $4k.  I'd like to keep it around $3k.

There are some rough spots on a couple of repainted areas (base/clear over single-stage) that has completely chipped away, and some rust bubbling up from the rocker panels.  I'll be stripping the car myself and doing some DA sanding in the driveway.
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Offline Eupher

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #976 on: May 09, 2015, 06:25:17 AM »
It's 2015.  The Toyota Camry is still being sold with drum brakes.

with probably ABS as an expensive "option". My 2004 Sienna has drum brakes, and they've been changed out once in 226,000 miles.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #977 on: May 09, 2015, 05:02:23 PM »
Pain in the ass springs.  Time for a trip to Harbor Freight.

Half the brake lining is missing from the shoes.  I wonder where it went, because it wasn't inside the drum when I took it off.  Drums look good, though.

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #978 on: May 10, 2015, 01:50:59 AM »
Racing junkheaps :)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBnXQZ7q8dk[/youtube]

I got one wheel done today and still forgot a couple of parts.  Tip: start from the bottom and work your way up.
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Offline obumazombie

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #979 on: May 10, 2015, 02:00:47 AM »
Time to start shopping for a paint job, but my limit is $4k.  I'd like to keep it around $3k.

There are some rough spots on a couple of repainted areas (base/clear over single-stage) that has completely chipped away, and some rust bubbling up from the rocker panels.  I'll be stripping the car myself and doing some DA sanding in the driveway.


Patina paint if the current paint is original.
A few clear coats will protect it for some time to come.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #980 on: May 10, 2015, 02:07:20 AM »

Patina paint if the current paint is original.
A few clear coats will protect it for some time to come.
A previous owner decided to respray the car from the doors forward with base/clear.  The rear half of the car is original single-stage paint, but the clearcoat on the front is peeling like a bad sunburn.  There are rust bubbles on the rocker panels and the "new" paint on the hood has completely chipped off in places.

The car needs a complete paint job and lots of prep.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #981 on: May 10, 2015, 11:15:08 PM »
*sigh*

Still not done yet.  For some reason, the old drum won't fit over the new brake shoes.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #982 on: May 12, 2015, 10:03:26 PM »
Got it.  Had to disconnect the emergency brake cables.  I have a feeling I'll be working on that later.

Three down, one to go.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #983 on: May 31, 2015, 09:15:13 PM »
Finally got the rear drum brakes bled. What a pain.  Forget all your fancy vacuum bleeders and reverse bleeding. All you need is a really long stick to hold the pedal down. :p

I'm going to have to back off the adjusting nut and continue to bleed them.  Backing the adjuster all the way out makes bleeding them impossible... the less room between the shoes, the easier it is to purge all the air out. 

Pump, bleed, adjust. Rinse and repeat... often.
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Offline cavegal

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #984 on: June 01, 2015, 04:58:35 PM »
What color are you painting it?


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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #985 on: June 01, 2015, 05:00:37 PM »
What color are you painting it?
I'm leaving it the same color (Bronze Yellow).
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Offline cavegal

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #986 on: June 01, 2015, 05:19:01 PM »
I'm leaving it the same color (Bronze Yellow).
Is that the sorta butterscotch yellow?


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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #987 on: June 01, 2015, 05:23:45 PM »
Is that the sorta butterscotch yellow?
Yep.
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Offline cavegal

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #988 on: June 01, 2015, 05:34:41 PM »


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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #989 on: June 01, 2015, 11:50:39 PM »
Getting tired of this rain.  :angryvillagers:
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #990 on: June 10, 2015, 09:40:32 PM »
I'm tempted to replace the hot-as-fire, leg-burning vinyl seats with seat upholstery that has black fabric inserts.  I'm sure most of you remember climbing into your car with vinyl seats in the middle of summer and losing a few layers of skin.  It's even less fun in a convertible.

I'll be rebuilding the collapsed seats with new foam and it's my car anyway.  I think it might be an improvement.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildbldghT1w[/youtube]
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Offline thundley4

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #991 on: June 10, 2015, 10:30:51 PM »
I'm tempted to replace the hot-as-fire, leg-burning vinyl seats with seat upholstery that has black fabric inserts.  I'm sure most of you remember climbing into your car with vinyl seats in the middle of summer and losing a few layers of skin.  It's even less fun in a convertible.

I'll be rebuilding the collapsed seats with new foam and it's my car anyway.  I think it might be an improvement.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildbldghT1w[/youtube]

That's the main reason I've always preferred cloth to leather or vinyl.

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #992 on: June 12, 2015, 09:01:56 PM »
Seat foam ain't cheap. :(
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #993 on: June 21, 2015, 09:35:41 PM »
It's a hot mess out there.  Your choices are 95° with 50% humidity and direct sunlight or 88° with 70% humidity and mosquitoes.

Finally got the damned parking brake cable removed.  It only took two weeks and required removing all the carpet and the passenger seat.  Once that's done, it's shop time for at least a week (rust repair) followed by paint.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #994 on: July 03, 2015, 10:37:53 PM »
Well, shit.  I broke one of the diff cover bolts inside the axle housing. 

Good news, it's not leaking.  Better news, I got the oil changed in the differential for the first time since I bought it and then some, probably five years or more.  The drain/fill plugs looks like it will accept a 1/2-inch socket, but it's tapered on the inside.  I used a 7/16 square key from the hardware store that fit just right.

I found a seeping rubber brake line going to the proportioning valve that was leaking.  I thought my brakes felt a little mushy.  If the rain holds off, I should have this mess finished by Sunday.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #995 on: July 14, 2015, 06:00:35 PM »
Did you buy your seat covers yet?  I'd go with cloth if I were you.  I've got leather in mine, and it looks cool, but it isn't worth the fuss.  I don't mind a cold seat in the winter, but it will burn you up in the summertime.

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #996 on: July 15, 2015, 04:51:20 PM »
I did.  I went with the cloth inserts.  They look nice.

I just need to get the brakes working, and it's off to paint.  I think the rear line or the 3-way union is clogged with dirt (the master cylinder had lots of crud in the bottom)... there's no fluid going to the rear brake cylinders.

edit: I removed the 3-way union fitting.  It was so clogged with dirt that I couldn't see through it.  I'll run a pipe cleaner through it and see what happens.
« Last Edit: July 15, 2015, 07:44:30 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #997 on: July 15, 2015, 08:41:15 PM »
If you have a spare master cylinder cap, you can make a pressure bleeder for about $15 of materials at a Lowes or Home Depot.  I will never go back to pedal/vacuum bleeding ever again. 

I had to build it to bleed the brakes on one of my Volvos (8 bleeders and three junction boxes).  Before my homemade bleeder, it was the worst car I've ever had the misfortune of trying to bleed out.   After the bleeder, it took all of three minutes.

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #998 on: July 15, 2015, 09:17:34 PM »
I've used Mityvac bleeders with pretty good results.  I did most of the clutch with a Mityvac and finished it by pushing on the slave cylinder.  Pedal bleeding on the MG isn't difficult... you just need a really long stick and some time.  I ran a pipe cleaner through the brass junction.  You could barely see a pinhole of light through it.  Now it looks brand new. 

I've ordered some replacement exterior pieces and weatherstripping.  Once the brakes are done, the car is getting pressure washed and stripped and sent off to paint.  I've got a budget of $4k in addition to fixing the crack of doom and the damned luggage rack holes in the trunk.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #999 on: July 16, 2015, 12:49:59 PM »
I got an estimate for the rust repair and paint job.  It's half of what I had budgeted for body work.
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