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Author Topic: 1973 MG B  (Read 159820 times)

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #900 on: July 01, 2014, 09:38:25 AM »
Quote from: BattleHymn on July 01, 2014, 12:30:07 AM
So you also have to have a set of current design plates for daily use? 

That's kind of dumb.  I don't think vintage tags would be worth the trouble where you are at.
Nope, you can have AA tags or you can have regular tags, but not both.  I've had to surrender my previous plate every time I changed the registration.

Quote from: obumazombie on July 01, 2014, 02:03:00 AM
I was under the impression that after a car was 20 years old it automatically qualified for classic status. Then at 30 years old, antique. Not sure about vintage.

As far as my state is concerned, the cutoff is 25 years and there can't be any modifications to the engine, but they never do a physical inspection.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #901 on: July 01, 2014, 01:33:19 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on July 01, 2014, 09:38:25 AM
Nope, you can have AA tags or you can have regular tags, but not both.  I've had to surrender my previous plate every time I changed the registration.

As far as my state is concerned, the cutoff is 25 years and there can't be any modifications to the engine, but they never do a physical inspection.

Moss Motors superchargers cast "MG" into the intake manifold.  That would sure help with that no modifications clause.  "See, it's factory!"
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #902 on: July 04, 2014, 03:12:39 PM »
I was able to pry the pop rivets out that were holding the sun visor catch in place.  I don't want to try to put another pop rivet in, but I think a machine screw with a wide head would work.




It worked.  A couple of #8-3/8" sheet metal screws and it's back in place.


I found a fix for my rebound strap mount that doesn't require welding.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2169296
« Last Edit: July 05, 2014, 01:38:53 AM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #903 on: July 05, 2014, 11:24:50 PM »
That didn't work out so well.  I got the top hangers off but the lower hangers are a little more difficult.  Also, I can't find the rebound straps I bought. :whatever:

I can't seem to get the center punch to mark the lower bolt face correctly, so I'm going to try to score it with the angle grinder.  Should be fun.


edit: Found them.  They were hiding in a box along with the charger cord for my drill.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2014, 03:31:21 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #904 on: July 06, 2014, 09:21:25 PM »
It's alive. 

The new fuel pump is pretty loud.  I wonder if it came from a larger car.  I still didn't get around to repairing the rebound strap mounts.  Maybe I can do that this week.  A new problem, one of my rear brake lights flicker during idle (a new LED bulb) and the rear marker light on the same side isn't working.

---

Something is broken.  The tail lights turn on and stay on as soon as you put the key in and I have no brake lights.  The mechanical switch may be stuck because it worked fine the last time I drove it before the fuel pump crapped out.

Definitely need to get the rebound straps reinstalled and some new shocks.  Making a tight and fast turn is pretty wooly.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2014, 11:03:10 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #905 on: July 12, 2014, 06:45:15 PM »
The solder and wiring on this replacement switch looks really shitty.  I think I'm going to have to redo it.


e:  No luck.  I crimped and re-soldered the wiring and the switch is still shorted.  At least Northwest Auto Parts sells a replacement for half the price of the Moss part.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2014, 10:58:00 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #906 on: July 20, 2014, 08:13:36 PM »
So I adjusted my carburetors with the Gunson Colortune (don't touch it while it's running!).  As I was finishing up, the engine sputtered, died, and now will not start.  Nothing is disconnected or stuck.  It cranks but will not fire.  I pulled the starter relay and will check it just in case.

Still waiting for my brake switch.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #907 on: July 22, 2014, 09:49:08 PM »
Grumble, grumble.

Replaced both the starter relay and the brake light switch.  The lights continue to come on as soon as you turn the key and the motor will spin but not fire. 

I'm trying to remove the ground strap between the body and motor (it looks like its come unwound) but the nut on the front of the engine just spins and will not come off.

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Offline thundley4

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #908 on: July 22, 2014, 10:30:48 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on July 22, 2014, 09:49:08 PM
Grumble, grumble.

Replaced both the starter relay and the brake light switch.  The lights continue to come on as soon as you turn the key and the motor will spin but not fire. 

I'm trying to remove the ground strap between the body and motor (it looks like its come unwound) but the nut on the front of the engine just spins and will not come off.



Unless the ground strap is broken, it should still do it's job.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #909 on: July 24, 2014, 11:29:58 PM »
I bypassed the starting switch and relay using the John Twist method.  Still cranking but will not run.  I'm getting fuel... I can see it in the filter and smell it in the carburettors.  I haven't checked for a spark yet.  Can you "blow" a coil?  I heard a loud pop before the engine quit running, and I don't think it a carb backfire.

The plugs are pretty sooty, but they are new (replaced them last year and put less than thousand miles on them since) and should be gapped correctly.
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #910 on: July 25, 2014, 01:56:15 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on July 24, 2014, 11:29:58 PM
I bypassed the starting switch and relay using the John Twist method.  Still cranking but will not run.  I'm getting fuel... I can see it in the filter and smell it in the carburettors.  I haven't checked for a spark yet.  Can you "blow" a coil?  I heard a loud pop before the engine quit running, and I don't think it a carb backfire.

The plugs are pretty sooty, but they are new (replaced them last year and put less than thousand miles on them since) and should be gapped correctly.

Lucas, prince of darkness says YES. But check for spark first anyway.  Could also be the condenser in the distributor.  I you have spark and you have gas you should have ignition.  After verifying spark you might give a bit of an ether enema to see what happens.   

Pops are never good.  Does this think have anti backfire plates it the carbs?  (my '72 had them stock but they got replaced when it was 'de smoged'.)
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #911 on: July 25, 2014, 09:18:26 PM »
I haz tail lights.  After Nadin-ing instructions on how to adjust the switch, they work like a charm. 

I just put in a new condenser (Mallory 400).  It was a bit larger than the one it replaced.  No backfire doodads.  I will give the starting fluid a shot.  The engine appears to have been de-smogged.  There are a bunch of plugged vacuum lines.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2014, 09:46:15 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #912 on: July 26, 2014, 03:08:02 PM »
The ether worked. 

Time to take another look at the fuel system.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #913 on: July 26, 2014, 08:23:08 PM »
Definitely a fuel issue.  I replaced the filter and hoses going to the carburetor and it runs, or at least it starts and idles.  It sputters and dies above 2,500 RPM.  The rear carb seems to be running lean.  I've got the adjusting screw pushed all the way in and it still runs like crap.  I don't remember if that hose in the middle has ever been replaced.

I made the mistake of buying 1/4-inch hoses today instead of 5/16.  That might be part of my problem.  Time for another trip to the store.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #914 on: July 27, 2014, 07:26:32 PM »
It's alive.  :yahoo:

The wiring on these brake switches are shit.  I've already had to replace the one I just bought.  Good thing I paid for two of them.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #915 on: July 28, 2014, 09:37:53 AM »
Dammit.  I think I blew out the O2 bung again.  This is the second (third?) time it's happened.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #916 on: July 29, 2014, 09:26:14 PM »
Put the new door top caps on.  Sure looks nice.

I have a stumble around 2,000 RPM.  Not sure what it is yet.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #917 on: July 30, 2014, 09:35:18 PM »
It's been a week and my brake lights still work.  It's a Festivus miracle.  I did notice the backup lights come on whenever the transmission is out of gear or in neutral.  Anything to keep from being rear-ended by zealous drivers with poor depth perception.

I reinstalled the filter pods and the stumble seems to have disappeared.  Might be running a little rich.  Unless it's completely cold, it fires up immediately just like it used to.

My immediate plans are to replace the rear shocks with some rebuilt Armstrong levers from Apple Hydraulics.  They're less expensive than the front but seem to have more say-so when it comes to cornering.  It should be about $250 that includes a refundable core charge and shipping.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2014, 09:50:53 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #918 on: August 03, 2014, 10:55:30 PM »
Crappy Chinese-made turn signal switch.  Every time I use the turn signals, my headlights switch off and I have to flip them on high beam to get them to stay on.
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Offline Wineslob

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #919 on: August 05, 2014, 03:07:14 PM »
Quote
Dammit.  I think I blew out the O2 bung again.


I hate it when that happens.

 :rofl:
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Offline Eupher

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #920 on: August 05, 2014, 04:35:56 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on July 28, 2014, 09:37:53 AM
Dammit.  I think I blew out the O2 bung again.  This is the second (third?) time it's happened.

Jeez. Might wanna get that thing checked. You blow that thing out more than 2-3 times, you never know what you're gonna run into.

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #921 on: August 10, 2014, 10:26:34 PM »
Where the hell is the transmission dipstick?  Is it really behind the radio?
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #922 on: August 11, 2014, 03:49:22 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on August 10, 2014, 10:26:34 PM
Where the hell is the transmission dipstick?  Is it really behind the radio?

Um, does it even have one??  I don't remember ever having to interface with a transmission dipstick no the MG.  Maybe on the case?  That said, the :rimshot:  reply would be. "Why no, the dipstick is behind the steering wheel."

Ah ha, here is a useful link.  Discouraging as the dickens yes, but useful. 
http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgoc-basic-2.html
« Last Edit: August 11, 2014, 03:57:07 PM by zeitgeist »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #923 on: August 11, 2014, 04:11:06 PM »
This guy says it's behind the radio. 


http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/goc.htm
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #924 on: August 11, 2014, 04:39:23 PM »
One wonders what constitutes an earlier or later model in the link I provided. You know you are in trouble when the instructions begin with 'the dipstick is difficult to remove'  and then mentions using 'garden hose'.   

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