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Author Topic: 1973 MG B  (Read 160203 times)

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #775 on: March 16, 2014, 07:32:53 PM »
I wouldn't know where to start. :(

A 10mm hex bit fits in the other end of the flare wrench I have.  I think I might be able to stick the other end of the flare wrench over the hydraulic fitting and turn the wrench with the hex bit on an extension.  I could at least keep one hand on the hydraulic line and turn the wrench with the other hand.

Did I mention I woke up in horrible pain this morning.  Oh, my back. :rofl:
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #776 on: March 16, 2014, 07:40:09 PM »
Quote from: JohnnyReb on March 16, 2014, 07:30:35 PM
Side grinder and time? ....definitely not the table saw.
I could do that.  I have one in the garage.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #777 on: March 16, 2014, 07:40:57 PM »
You might be able to make the 11mm crow's foot work if you have a good file and/or a Dremel.  
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #778 on: March 16, 2014, 07:44:55 PM »
Quote from: BattleHymn on March 16, 2014, 07:40:57 PM
You might be able to make the 11mm crow's foot work if you have a good file and/or a Dremel. 
I could, but the car is stuck in Columbia at the moment (yeah, that was a bad decision).  Very limited resources and almost no tools.

I'm really worried about boogering-up the hydraulic fitting.  I did that on one of my Camrys.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 08:05:20 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #779 on: March 22, 2014, 09:37:41 AM »
Quote from: Chris_ on March 16, 2014, 07:44:55 PM
I could, but the car is stuck in Columbia at the moment (yeah, that was a bad decision).  Very limited resources and almost no tools.

I'm really worried about boogering-up the hydraulic fitting.  I did that on one of my Camrys.

Did you get this together yet?  Which fitting are you working on?  Is it one of the bastards around the pedal box? 

I try to avoid that area like the plague.  Even my hands, which aren't big, are too big for comfort.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #780 on: March 22, 2014, 09:45:52 AM »
No, this is on the passenger side of the car.  The hard line follows the fender down to the frame rail where there is a tang that holds a nut, the hard line, and the rubber hose.  To say it's a tight fit is an understatement.  It should be next to the starter... some people have suggested removing it to make it easier to work in that area.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #781 on: March 22, 2014, 10:03:51 AM »
Yeah, that's a tight spot.  Are you working above or below the car?

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #782 on: March 22, 2014, 10:10:47 AM »
Mostly below.  I was able to remove the retaining nut from the top, but threading the hard line back into the hose isn't happening either way.


(not my car)

That's it on the left.  Looks like I should probably remove the starter.  That should make it easier.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #783 on: March 22, 2014, 10:16:44 AM »
Quote from: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 10:10:47 AM
Mostly below.  I was able to remove the retaining nut from the top, but threading the hard line back into the hose isn't happening either way.
That's it on the left.  Looks like I should probably remove the starter.  That should make it easier.

Taking the starter out would give you more room.  Can you loosen any of the clips holding the hard line in place above that fitting, to give you some room to make adjustments down there? 
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #784 on: March 22, 2014, 10:21:49 AM »
Quote from: BattleHymn on March 22, 2014, 10:16:44 AM
Taking the starter out would give you more room.  Can you loosen any of the clips holding the hard line in place above that fitting, to give you some room to make adjustments down there? 
There's enough flex in the line for me to move it around and up and down.  I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning, and threading the hose up from the bottom.  I was trying to do it from the top down with a wrench but couldn't put enough downward pressure on it to start threading it into the hose.

I didn't realize that was the starter.  Everything under my car is the same uniform black color... there's nothing distinguishable from another part down there.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2014, 10:24:26 AM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #785 on: March 22, 2014, 10:30:38 AM »
Quote from: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 10:21:49 AM
I didn't realize that was the starter.  Everything under my car is the same uniform black color... there's nothing distinguishable from another part down there.

Are you trying to leave openings for the other guys here reasons to make fun of us?   "That's because it's all covered in oil!"  :rotf:  :-)


Quote
I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning,

Can you hold it with one wrench and just wrap a piece of tape around the line and the nut to keep it from spinning?  One less wrench might give you more room.
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #786 on: March 22, 2014, 12:17:50 PM »
Quote from: BattleHymn on March 22, 2014, 10:30:38 AM
Are you trying to leave openings for the other guys here reasons to make fun of us?   "That's because it's all covered in oil!"  :rotf:  :-)


Can you hold it with one wrench and just wrap a piece of tape around the line and the nut to keep it from spinning?  One less wrench might give you more room.

I will never forget the pile of goop that was taken off the bottom of the 'Cuda when it was redone.  Call it 'redneck undercoating' or what you will but what had been done was to spray the underbody with drain oil then drive it over dusty dirt roads.  Apparently it worked, the floor panels were rust free and here in New England that is rare.  Of course the entire bottom is now black from undercoating.  :rotf:
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #787 on: March 22, 2014, 09:38:03 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 10:21:49 AM
I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning, and threading the hose up from the bottom.
It worked. :II:

New problem... the master cylinder is leaking.  I tried to bleed the system and it all ended up on the floor mat.

I should be able to put the exhaust on tomorrow and have a new master cylinder delivered next week.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #788 on: March 23, 2014, 05:57:56 PM »
Well, that didn't go so well.

When the instructions tell you to install the new header from the bottom of the car, it helps to have a jack that is taller than the new part being installed.  I did get a new oil separator cover gasket made.  Advance Auto sells sheets of cork... much easier to work with than that other stuff.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2014, 09:56:47 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #789 on: March 26, 2014, 03:46:32 PM »
48 hours.  That's how long it takes Moss Motors to pick, pack, ship, and deliver my order after I place it online.

I think I'll stick with them.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #790 on: March 26, 2014, 04:14:01 PM »
What did you order?
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #791 on: March 26, 2014, 04:28:45 PM »
Clutch master cylinder.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #792 on: March 26, 2014, 04:31:46 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on March 26, 2014, 04:28:45 PM
Clutch master cylinder.

Mine has a SMALL leak on the clutch master.  I haven't bothered to see where it's going yet. 
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #793 on: March 26, 2014, 04:36:13 PM »
Quote from: BattleHymn on March 26, 2014, 04:31:46 PM
Mine has a SMALL leak on the clutch master.  I haven't bothered to see where it's going yet. 
The current one has failed around the pushrod seal or whatever's closest to it.  It squirts onto the floor mat (and your shoes) and onto the inner fender.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #794 on: March 26, 2014, 04:48:11 PM »
Quote from: Chris_ on March 26, 2014, 04:36:13 PM
The current one has failed around the pushrod seal or whatever's closest to it.  It squirts onto the floor mat (and your shoes) and onto the inner fender.

That's the same leak area mine has been developing.  It's not bad yet, but I need to catch it before it ruins a pair of shoes or pants.  Did you get another cap with the slave cylinder, or do you have to reuse your old one?
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #795 on: March 26, 2014, 04:52:36 PM »
It looks just like the old one.  It finally froze over the winter and gave up the ghost.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #796 on: March 29, 2014, 09:02:26 PM »
Brrr... it got cold out there.

I got as far as putting on the new header and removing the old exhaust hanger mount on the rear.  My TT exhaust kit was missing the 1/4-inch bolts for the new hanger so I called it a day.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #797 on: March 30, 2014, 06:00:07 PM »
Got the new exhaust on and found out the battery I brought with me won't fit in the battery compartment behind the seat.  $75 for a new one.

How the hell do you get the pedal box cover off?
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #798 on: March 30, 2014, 06:13:47 PM »
This might help:

http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/2011/01/pedal-power.html


It should all come out through the top. 
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #799 on: March 30, 2014, 07:01:22 PM »
I ****ed up and managed to "remove" one of the captive nuts holding the muffler hanger to the car.  :lmao:
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