2x4 wall framing

[ExGeeEye]

I'm possibly going to buy a house in the next month or so.  The one I'm looking at has an unacceptable shed.  I already have a basic idea of what I want; a combination shed and workshop like was behind another house we looked at.

I've more than half a mind to attempt to build it myself.  I'd want a concrete pad for a floor, I think, and 2x4 frame walls 18" on center, plywood outside and siding to match the house; pegboard and/or cheap paneling inside; strong shallow-angle roof angled down from front to back (not an inverted v, just a flat roof tilted, ya know what I mean?

Trying to sketch out designs I realized I have no idea what happens when two frame walls meet at a corner.  I've never seen it done.  I searched on line, hoping to find a simple illustration, and found none.

Anyone know where to look?

[Thor]

Should be either 16" or 24" on center. For a shed, I'd go 24" on center. As far as where the walls join, double up the studs on one wall and attach other wall to those studs.

http://www.buildeazy.com/shed_2.html

[JohnnyReb]

Corner post:

"T" Post:

Window/door jacks:

Headers:

15"/23" and set ahead:....or 49" and set back:

To much to explain.

First thing before you start building .... better check and see if you need a building permit and if they have building codes where you are....and you may even be required to use a licensed contractor. After getting all that squared away, then find someone that has some experience in building to help you.

[ExGeeEye]

Should be either 16" or 24" on center. For a shed, I'd go 24" on center. As far as where the walls join, double up the studs on one wall and attach other wall to those studs.

http://www.buildeazy.com/shed_2.html

Thank you, that was very helpful, particularly the link.

[ExGeeEye]

Corner post:

"T" Post:

Window/door jacks:

Headers:

15"/23" and set ahead:....or 49" and set back:

To much to explain.

First thing before you start building .... better check and see if you need a building permit and if they have building codes where you are....and you may even be required to use a licensed contractor. After getting all that squared away, then find someone that has some experience in building to help you.

Thank you for your input.

[JohnnyReb]

http://www.buildeazy.com/shed_2.html

Not a bad site but even if you build a shed that small, I'd still use at least a 3' foot wide door. If you buy a prehung door or a metal exterior door you should measure the out side of the door frame and add 4"  for the width between the studs in the wall where the door will be located (probably around 42")....that 4" is to allow for 2 door jacks and 1" of wiggle room for truing up the door unit. If that doesn't allow enough room, you can pull off one of the 2x4 jacks and use a 1x4 under the header which will give you an added 3/4" of room.

Standard doors are 6' 8" tall so the door and window jacks should be cut 6' 9 1/2" or so for a rough opening. Then your headers go on top of them...a couple of 2x4 headers will do for a light shed roof.

You mentioned a rather flat roof....if you shingle the roof, it should not be any flatter than a 2 & 12 pitch ...that's 2' rise per 12 feet of run....a 4 & 12 pitch and steeper is better for shingles. Full length tin would be better for a flatter roof and then no less than 1 & 12 pitch. In my area you can have tin formed and cut any length you want up to 30' at no extra charge.   

[Wineslob]

Personally I'd stick with 16" on center, but I DO have the possibility of snow.

[Thor]

Wineslob, I built a shed up in MN. I used 24" on center. It had a steeply pitched roof for the most part. It held the snow load pretty well. When I sold the house, the new buyers took it down. It was a lot like this one: