diet soda primitive can't get car to go

[franksolich]

http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=310x859

Oh my.

It's surprising how many primitives in this Bush economy, the worst economy since the Fall of Rome, manage to own such expensive and-or exotic motor vehicles.  And doesn't this go against the primitive "nonmaterialism" or "antimaterialism"?  Aren't we here on this side the ones who are supposed to be bragging about what we own, while the primitives look upon us with Great Moral Indignation?

This is brand-new, posted just today.

Tab  Donating Member  (1000+ posts) Tue Apr-22-08 08:21 AM
Original message

Help! It's that time of year and my '78 MGB wants to get out of the garage, but it can't!
   
This is not a post-winter storage problem. Actually, last May I was driving it, stopped at a pedestrian walk, it stalled, and never restarted. Had it towed back, figuring it was minor and I'd have it going, but I never did.

It was a busy summer and I didn't get to spend a lot of time on it. Now it's spring again and it wants to go outside, but I can't get it started.

It cranks but doesn't fire.

Details about it:
- Professionally rebuilt engine with a high-performance engine
- Manual choke, overdrive tranny
- Maybe 20k on the new engine
- Because of the engine, uses high-octane gas (thank goodness I don't drive it THAT much)
- I think it has electronic ignition, but aren't positive

What I've done either in this process or had done in the last few years:
- Replaced the coil with a sport coil. It was probably one of the original coils anyway.
- Replaced the fuel filter. Cheap enough, never hurts.
- Replaced the starter a few years ago
- Replaced the fuel pump a few years ago
- I have verified there is gas getting to the carbs (pulled the hose, stuck it into a jug, cranked for a few seconds, it had gas coming out. Not sure how to trace it beyond that point.
- I think it's more of a spark issue, and I bought a spark tester, but aren't exactly sure what to do if I find a low spark on a plug - replace the wire? What?
- Have trickle charged the battery and also tried cranking while jumped from my Saab (plenty of power there). I replaced the cables to the battery a few years ago, so they're strong.

Presumably with the rebuild new sparks and wires were put in. It could be the electronic ignition - I guess they can flake out without any notice - but I don't want to replace everything on a whim. The fuel filter and coil were cheap enough, but now the diagnostics need to start. I'm not a diagnostician or a serious mechanic. I diagnose things in real life, but they're not engines. I can do stuff like replace cables and water pumps, but I'm still new to the mechanic business.

Any idea on how to proceed? And, hey, if you live in southeastern New Hampshire and want to come over and get it running, I can probably pay you something for your time Either money or a case of British ale.

But seriously, I do want to get this thing a'movin... any ideas?

[Randy]

Based on the don't knows and the I thinks in that post along with the changed because I could mentality he/she/it may as well have it towed on out to a shop. It's a spark (electrical) problem and I don't think this one has the abilities to diagnose it.

[franksolich]

I went back to check, about eight hours after this was posted; there's never much action in the automotive forum on Skins's island.

One primitive responded:

immil  Donating Member  (27 posts) Tue Apr-22-08 10:06 AM
Response to Original message

1. Fuel or Fire
   
That old of a car will require a bit of thought. It is either fuel or fire. For the fuel two things pop into my mind, fuel pressure or jets. You can pick up a fuel pressure Gage at Autozone easily enough and check that the pumps are working up to pressure. If you already know that then it would be in the carbs and that most likely is the jet is clogged up. However, since it is not hitting it would be unusual that both carbs would be effected. Still, it would be something to look for. Maybe they need to be rebuilt. Also just check the plugs. If, after trying the start the car, you pull the plug and it is wet then the fuel is getting to the cylinders. The final test is just squirt some starting fluid into the carbs and see if it fires. If it does then the carbs are the most likely source of the problem. Don't just keep squirting and squirting the fluid in there if it doesn't fire.

The fire is easily tested for with a timing light. If the light is flickering when you turn the car over then there should be fire. Check each wire with the timing light. Next, pull a plug out and get it right next to a grounded piece of metal and turn the car over. If you see (you can also hear) a spark jump between the plug and metal then you are good to go. If no spark you could ask the people that rebuilt the motor what the wires should ohm out at and test for that just to eliminate that possibility. Also check the wire between the coil and distributer. The other possibility if there is no fire is the coil. It is not unusual for a coil to go bad and you can have that checked.

Finally you can get to the distributer. Take it off and check for cracks as well as the condition of the leads inside. Do a continuity check for each lead going from the contact inside to the plug wire outside. Also check the condition of the rotor. Sometimes it can carbon up so use a wet stone and clean it off just a hair. While you are there check the points to make sure you have the proper gap. Again you friends that rebuilt the motor can provide you with the proper clearances. Also check the condenser in the distributer (it may be outside the distributer) and you may just change that out as it is a five dollar part.

It should take you maybe an hour to do all this. Tell us how it goes.

If all that proves nothing then go to you local Chevy parts counter and order an LS1 crate motor (the one for the Vette as it is all aluminum) and put that in the car. It would work every time and be a screamer. You would probably get better milage too so you could consider yourself an eco friendly driver.

[Gwitness]

Based on the don't knows and the I thinks in that post along with the changed because I could mentality he/she/it may as well have it towed on out to a shop. It's a spark (electrical) problem and I don't think this one has the abilities to diagnose it.

Heres my professional advice..It's a English built pos..with wiring by Lucas [the prince of darkness]  do yourself a favor.........blow it up....3 sticks of tnt oughta do it.

[Chris_]

Based on the don't knows and the I thinks in that post along with the changed because I could mentality he/she/it may as well have it towed on out to a shop. It's a spark (electrical) problem and I don't think this one has the abilities to diagnose it.

Heres my professional advice..It's a English built pos..with wiring by Lucas [the prince of darkness]  do yourself a favor.........blow it up....3 sticks of tnt oughta do it.

Remember this guy is an automotive genius, not only does he own a 78 MGB, he also has a Saab!!  Talk about a sucker for punishment....

I'm with you on the Lucas ignition, but don't forget those wonderful Solex carbs......Way back when I was a wee lad, I had a wonderful MG-TD, and spent more time trying to synchronize the carbs than I did driving it.....

doc

[Uhhuh35]

When a car cranks but doesn't fire, it's one of three basic things:
A. No ignition
B. No fuel
C. Both
We used to just pull a plug out, set it against the block with the lead on, crank the motor to see if it'll spark.
This car is carburetted so it's easy to check if fuel is getting to the engine. Have some one pump the accelerator and look in the carb to see if fuel is squirting into carb.
Go from there.
And just because he replaced all that stuff on his engine, that don't mean it works or he did it right either.

[Gwitness]

When a car cranks but doesn't fire, it's one of three basic things:
A. No ignition
B. No fuel
C. Both
We used to just pull a plug out, set it against the block with the lead on, crank the motor to see if it'll spark.
This car is carburetted so it's easy to check if fuel is getting to the engine. Have some one pump the accelerator and look in the carb to see if fuel is squirting into carb.
Go from there.
And just because he replaced all that stuff on his engine, that don't mean it works or he did it right either.

Ummm..it's an English car....it can have all three...fuel, air , and ignition....and still not run...went through that trauma with a Jaguar