frogmonkey primitive has problem replacing belt on vehicle

[franksolich]

http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=310x705

Oh my.

The frogmonkey primitive started this bonfire, and alas no primitives showed up.

progdonkey  Donating Member  (1000+ posts) Mon Jan-08-07 01:55 PM
Original message

Having difficulty replacing drive belt on '98 V6 Mustang ...
   
I wonder if anyone can help me with this. It's apparently supposed to be very simple, but I'm having so much difficulty with it, that I'm sure I must be doing something wrong.

I'm trying to replace the drive belt on my Mustang, but the tensioner arm is providing way too much trouble for me. I got the old belt off by pressing down on the belt, thereby lifting up the tensioner arm, and got the belt out from around the pulleys. But now I'm trying to put the new one on and the tensioner is providing all kinds of hassle.

I have a Haynes Mustang repair manual, but it's left me even more confused, because it says, "To replace the belt, insert a 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet into the square hole located in the tensioner body (see illustration). Rotate the tensioner clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt." The thing is, the tensioner arm looks like it needs to go counter-clockwise in order to provide room for the belt to go around. Furthermore, the illustration is almost unintelligible, because the breaker bar is inserted into something that's right on the tensioner pulley itself (and it also doesn't help that they didn't bother to remove the radiator hose, which covers about a third of the photo--and almost all of the important part).

How do I get the tensioner arm up so I can get the drive belt around it? Should I get a second person to help me, or, when done right, should it be a one-person job?

Thanks!

Alas, no primitives with mechanical aptitude.

progdonkey  Donating Member  (1000+ posts) Mon Jan-08-07 05:30 PM
Response to Original message

1. nevermind...

This was from January 2007, about 15 months ago.

In case the frogmonkey primitive's still trying to put that belt on, does anyone here have any suggestions?

[Chris_]

Well if I'm reading the instructions correctly, it appears that the tensioning idler has a 1/2 inch square hole in it, where you can insert a 1/2 drive bar or ratchet wrench (without a socket on it), rotating it clockwise likely activates a release cam that will swing the tensioning idler out of the way, so that the belt can be threaded around the various drive sprockets.  Then the wrench should be rotated counterclockwise which will reposition the lock-out cam, and return the tensioning idler to its proper position on the belt.....just my best guess.....

doc

[RobJohnson]

Those belts can be tricky. But once you figure it out, it then seems so simple. Luckily I have not had to change one in about 8 years!

[Randy]

First step: Locate hole.
Second step: Insert tool.
Third step: Rotate tensioner against the spring tension (hence tensioner).
Fourth step: Assuming the belt is routed properly, install belt.
Fifth Step: Start car and QC job.
Sixth Step: Pop beer and pat self on back on job well done.


Oh crap, I forgot, DUmmies can't read or evidently follow a simple line drawing. 

[Uhhuh35]

I could understand if the DUmmie was confused using a Chilton manual but Haynes manuals are retardedly simple to use. They have a picture for almost every step.
Either he was using a scan of the page or he just doesn't have enough muscle to rotate the pulley out of the way.
Or both!

[MrsSmith]

I lost the belt on my Taurus, once.  I didn't have the manual along, so it took me nearly 30 minutes to figure out how to move the tensioner.  Once you see the little square hole, it's so simple!!   

[Gwitness]

I lost the belt on my Taurus, once.  I didn't have the manual along, so it took me nearly 30 minutes to figure out how to move the tensioner.  Once you see the little square hole, it's so simple!!   

You lost the Serpentine belt used to drive the accessories [Alternator, power steering, etc] The DUmmy is  [was] playing with a 2.3l 4 cylinder [only timing belt engine in a Mustang] timing belt...very easy belt to do....the tensioner turns counter-clockwise to release tension....after you turn out the retaing bolt a bit.

[RobJohnson]

I could understand if the DUmmie was confused using a Chilton manual but Haynes manuals are retardedly simple to use. They have a picture for almost every step.
Either he was using a scan of the page or he just doesn't have enough muscle to rotate the pulley out of the way.
Or both!

Maybe he just had his nails done!!!

[Chris_]

I could understand if the DUmmie was confused using a Chilton manual but Haynes manuals are retardedly simple to use. They have a picture for almost every step.
Either he was using a scan of the page or he just doesn't have enough muscle to rotate the pulley out of the way.
Or both!

Maybe he just had his nails done!!!

Knowing the DUmmies, he probably tried to replace it with the engine running.....

doc

[RobJohnson]

I could understand if the DUmmie was confused using a Chilton manual but Haynes manuals are retardedly simple to use. They have a picture for almost every step.
Either he was using a scan of the page or he just doesn't have enough muscle to rotate the pulley out of the way.
Or both!

Maybe he just had his nails done!!!

Knowing the DUmmies, he probably tried to replace it with the engine running.....

doc

LOL

The belt would not stop spinning!

[Chris_]

The last few vehicles I have had are almost hermetically sealed.

I used to be a pretty good mechanic but nowadays you can't do anything without pulling the damn engine or having specialty tools designed for specific engines.

And of course, you need the diagnostic computer for 1/2 of all problems.

I gave up a long time ago.  I just take it tp the dealer if there is a problem.

[Chris_]

The last few vehicles I have had are almost hermetically sealed.

I used to be a pretty good mechanic but nowadays you can't do anything without pulling the damn engine or having specialty tools designed for specific engines.

And of course, you need the diagnostic computer for 1/2 of all problems.

I gave up a long time ago.  I just take it tp the dealer if there is a problem.

I'm the same way, I used to do 90% of my own maintenance, but now it just goes to the dealer as well.....

doc