I haven't checked up on it. It's eight hours away... I would have to schedule some time off from work to make it up there and back in a weekend.
That one's got a bad master cylinder as well but if I can find a nearby garage, I can get it fixed for a few bucks.
One of the guys up here at work is trying to sell me a 65 Dart 2-door post. :yawn:That's, um... interesting.
It needs work, (rust and interior), but it runs. Anymore, I'd rather futz with mechanical problems, rather than body and interior work.
Out of the three you've got there going just by the photos, that would be the one I would go after. A master cylinder isn't difficult to replace.That one's got a dent too... driver door. It does have the 260 V8 but it also has that terrible window tint which looks like it's probably too dark to be legal here. Removing tint is a pain in the ass.
That one's got a dent too... driver door. It does have the 260 V8 but it also has that terrible window tint which looks like it's probably too dark to be legal here. Removing tint is a pain in the ass.
Does this qualify as the middle of nowhere?
Wow, they crunched it up pretty good. :thatsright:
The trunk lid doesn't sit right, the grille has some damage, and there's a Chevrolet radio in the dash. I'm pretty sure that breaks at least 3 laws south of the Mason-Dixon line. They're going to have to come off some money for me to buy this thing.
Call me cheap, but I wouldn't offer them a penny over $1800.I'll offer them $2000.
This is what $2000 wil buy these days. (http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1964-Ford-Fairlane-573381.xhtml?conversationId=9622) :rotf:
This is what $2000 wil buy these days. (http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1964-Ford-Fairlane-573381.xhtml?conversationId=9622) :rotf:
You gotta be shitting me.
I wouldn't offer that guy $50 for that wreck.
I don't know, I guess it depends on where you go. They don't go for that much around here, it seems.Two of them don't run and the third has no interior.
http://joplin.craigslist.org/cto/3835200090.html 1962 $1000
http://springfield.craigslist.org/bar/3835463484.html 1963 $2000
http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/3773672585.html 1964 $1800
Another Alabama adventure. How the heck do I get this thing back home?Take a mass transit down, and drive it back.
Take a mass transit down, and drive it back.This guy's almost in the middle of nowhere (https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Crane+Hill,+AL&hl=en&ll=34.09361,-87.062531&spn=0.660738,0.852814&sll=36.18664,-86.785245&sspn=0.643963,0.852814&hnear=Crane+Hill,+Cullman,+Alabama&t=m&z=10). He's not quite that far out, but he's in the neighborhood.
Two of them don't run and the third has no interior.
Good job. :rofl:
Seems some of those listers have been watching too many episodes of Counting Cars. :whatever:It's worth more if you spell it correctly. :whistling:
I almost wonder what my 72 Camero would go for. :p
I wonder if I could sneak this home and hide it from spousal unit:
http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/3828407806.html
It's worth more if you spell it correctly. :whistling:
Yeah, those guys have some crazy stupid prices.
This is pretty slick. http://www.southfloridastangs.net/sfsforum/pictures-videos/69085-just-finished-rebuilding-my-1963-ford-fairlane-enjoy.html
'Urban Cammo'
"My hair!"
I am seriously considering this 1963 Fairlane. The color is puke, but it has fins. The '64 for sale in Illinois does not.
http://blacksburg.craigslist.org/cto/3801263839.html
This other '63 needs paint and body work and is a coupe. I think I like the four-door better. It has more class.
http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/3800182935.html
If I didn't have stuff to do this weekend, I would drive up and kick the tires on that '64 in Illinois. It's just over the border from St. Louis.
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1964-Ford-Fairlane-65651.xhtml?conversationId=270983
I like that '64.You should read the entire thread. Too much damage and the repair & shipping costs would have been an extra $1,000 at a minimum.
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/scaler/632/473/images/a/2010/03/24/913061/90379237_1269439178502.jpg
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/fomocobook_zps4ecd1c70.png) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/fomocobook_zps4ecd1c70.png.html)
$25 bucks delivered. :II:
I don't know why it says "supplement", but that is the shop manual. It has a complete table of contents and covers the entire car.
I guess I'll find out later if I screwed up, but it's the only thing for sale.
I seem to remember seeing them both ways. Sometimes the supplement is separate, and other times it's listed on the cover, because the printing has been updated to include it. How many pages does it have?I read the description again. It is a supplement to the original 1961 factory manual that only lists updated items for the 1963 model.
Here we have an original Ford 1963 FORD FAIRLANE and MERCURY METEOR Shop Manual Supplement. It is a nice original and has all the additional and unique information on the 1963 Fairlane not covered in the regular shop manual. This is a nice addition to anyone's collection and great for your restoration project. Feel free to ask any questions. BOX216
Chris if u decide to drop the tank make sure you can get gas tank straps. I have a crappy tank on the 'cuda and should probably do the same thing but haven't got around to it in 12 years. I use a clear inline filter and change it frequently.I was thinking the same thing.
I was thinking the same thing.
Any tips on DIY tank cleaning? I've never had to do it.
I was thinking the same thing.
Any tips on DIY tank cleaning? I've never had to do it.
What are the odds that there's a bunch of rust in the tank? At some point in the game, cleaning becomes impractical or impossible and replacement is necessary. Have you priced the cost of a replacement tank?$250, which is about normal for a reproduction tank. The straps are another $70.
FixOrRepairDaily:hammer:
FixOrRepairDaily
:fuelfire:
$250, which is about normal for a reproduction tank. The straps are another $70.
Toilet bowl cleaner? Never heard that one. At this point, I'm just going to drain the tank, flush it clean, and see what progresses from there. I might even try the toilet bowl cleaner.
Have you considered Por-15's tank sealer? I think it's around $75 or so. It comes with all the chemicals and stuff to remove the rust and seal it. We did this on my brother's B, and it turned out good.Not yet. We'll call that plan B.
I was just looking at the filter I changed the other day it was nasty. It is about 90 here today, I took a quick spin around and popped the hood when I pulled in to check the new filter. Not quite as nasty but not that great either. I may post a couple pics later. The filter was quite warm as well as crappy.My fuel pump and filter (http://www.dearbornclassics.com/fuel-pump-260-289-ford-and-mercury-1963-1964.html) is in the front, mounted to the engine. I didn't get a very good look, but I am assuming the hard line goes to the carburetor while the rubber is the feed from the tank. I could put a clear in-line filter in front of the stock one and see what happens. Good thing the stock filter element is only five bucks.
I have seen new tanks for the 'cuda on Ebay and specialty shops so I would probably go that route but I figure cleaning would involve something like BB's and shaking around. Saw one guy say he used toilet bowl cleanser, another hydrochloric acid, another vinegar.
I have no idea where I would buy phosphoric acid... I don't normally need that kind of stuff.
Is it sold under a brand name?
Have you considered Por-15's tank sealer? I think it's around $75 or so. It comes with all the chemicals and stuff to remove the rust and seal it. We did this on my brother's B, and it turned out good.
This is the filter I just put in the other day. I put about fifteen miles on it. Today I bought another one to keep on the shelf. I also dissected the old one I took off. I did not get a pic of the amount of gunk from it but it was at least a tablespoon.Damn, dude, that's pretty filthy.
(http://s9.postimg.org/bw3nm0cnj/DSCF4152.jpg)
I rotated the filter so the gunk would be in the top for this picture. (180 from the way it was sitting)
Damn, dude, that's pretty filthy.
Was just telling tots that I wish you lived closer I would give you a hand...a lot easier to deal with a tank with 2 extra hands....There's an Irish kid at work that just bought a Karmann Ghia. Maybe I can draft him. :-)
Wow, that's not a fuel filter, that's a pudding cup.
Yeah, it is the sore spot of the engine bay.I'm going to try apple cider vinegar and finish up with "The Works". That way I can filter and re-use the vinegar. It might take a couple of days.
Change of subject for a minute......talk about mint condition....a 1958 Chevy pickup with just 1.3 miles on it....a 78 Corvette with ??? 4 miles and other old cars with low mileage and the plastic still on the seats.
http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/scores-chevys-hidden-50-years-finally-sale-160911547.html
Yeah, it is the sore spot of the engine bay.
(http://s22.postimg.org/w4pz0intt/DSCF4159.jpg)
Nice slanty, zeitgest. What do you have it in?
Oooh, Ram Air straight-six. Sweet.
That's one hell of an exhaust manifold.
Four-day weekend. I'm tempted to bring the Ford home and put the MG in storage and drop the tank on Saturday.
Glutton for punishment? Naah.
Actually, I think I'll wait until the tank is relatively clean before I drive it back. There is a Lowes in Columbia.
Are you going to drop the tank clean it and re-install and then bring the car home? Or tow the car home...Holiday weekends might cost more then reg days for towing...got bit with that years ago.I was going to drop the tank and bring it home this weekend for cleaning. Figured I'd pick up a couple of 5-gallon plastic buckets, some sand and pea gravel, and make a cheap drip filter so I don't have to buy more than a few gallons of cider vinegar.
They're adjustable... There's got to be a "plush" setting somewhere, dammit.
At this point, it rides like my shitbox 3-series with blown shocks. Riding on springs and way too bouncy. Yes, the current shocks look new, but I have no idea what kind they are.
I'm not looking for kidney-jarring... I already have one of those. I want something that feels solid. Right now, it just feels bouncy.
At some point in the game, you've got to put a premium on your time, versus the money that might be saved by trying to save that tank. The guy's tank that you linked to was a motorcycle tank, for God's sake, so at the most he put 8-10 gallons of vinegar through it.
A Fairlane tank? What is that, 18 gallons? Times two?
Just get a new tank. There are plenty of other things to tinker with, I'd think.
Ah yes Eupher, sometimes it's not the destination but the voyage that is important. (Gee that sounds a lott more like some self help guru than the Flat Rate Motor Manual ). :whistling: Like my mom was always fond of saying "Patch it up, wear it out, make it do or do without." Now there are limits to that I grant you, once the cost of vinegar exceeds the cost of the new tank .... :hammer:
Definitely the use some sort of tank sealer is in order. At least it will give you a small bit of reassurance that it wont be leaking...well next week...maybe....hehe
Got to keep it interesting.
The Irish kid at work has a Karmann-Ghia. It's a rusty shitbucket, but don't tell him I said that. He needs a full tank dip on that car.
and depending on how old the "kid" is that is probably how he wants it...my shit is rusty cause I worry more how things run than look....its not by design...lolHe's about my age, maybe a little younger. He said the VW was for someone else.
I thought of your Ford when I saw this, Chris. I think I'd be sick to go to the auction and see what they bring. I'd like that 58 Cameo pickup myself.I owned a '59. It was a basic Apache with the Cameo cab and a stepside body.
http://hooniverse.com/2013/06/30/once-in-a-lifetime-the-lambrecht-chevrolet-company-with-500-vehicles-going-to-auction
Moore, Nebraska is going to get gang-raped by this auction. The town's population is something like 1,500 people So many people are going to show up for this thing, it's going to be a nightmare.
Sure, the town will make plenty of money but it's going to be a huge cluster**** until it's over. :-)
Got to keep it interesting.
The Irish kid at work has a Karmann-Ghia. It's a rusty shitbucket, but don't tell him I said that. He needs a full tank dip on that car.
I will try to get some pictures if it stops raining.
Cats and dogs (http://www.weather.com/weather/map/interactive/37214:4?interactiveMapLayer=radar&baseMap=r&zoom=7). :(Did you step in any poodles ?
Not yet. There's no electrical outlet for me to use at this storage unit... I'm not sure how else to do it.
Hagerty updated my policy. It only cost me an extra $10.
What happened with the Accord's title?He never transferred it over from the previous owner he purchased it from. He drove it until their tags expired and put it up for sale. I sent the title back to him and expected him to follow through on transferring it to him so I had a clean title to hand over to the DMV. He never did... I bugged him for six months and he didn't do anything -- never answered my phone calls or text messages -- until I sent him a certified letter with a SASE.
If I had to do it again, I would have skipped the vinegar and gone straight to The Works. A little bit goes a long way.
Be sure to do it outside and wear rubber gloves... that stuff is evil.
I inhaled a little bit of it, but managed to get away unscathed.
Very cool. I have never seen that POR 15 putty. i know of allot of their other products...have to keep that in mind. Thx Chris.I found this one (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEQ-WBHfuwU) earlier today. He's using a different type, but it looks like any epoxy putty would work.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/p480x480/21995_435115469894398_1907034814_n.jpg)
Finally got this thing home. I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a new battery.
I stopped for gas and the thing wouldn't fire up again after I filled up. I drained my jumper pack because the battery was low when I got there this afternoon. Looks like I will be stopping by WalMart for a cheapo replacement. Also, none of the dash bulbs work... that was a fun drive.
Going to have to look at the tie-rods on this thing. And the brakes. The steering goes one way, the brakes go in another.
And then there is the story of the self adjusters which were put on the wrong sides... I will have to see if I still have the pictures. Yes, the "Cuda" is all original, including the small bolt four wheel drum brakes. I have thought about the upgrade to front disk a thousand times and end up in an infinite loop of ' keep it all original or upgrade ' Once you pop that cherry it is never the same, each new mod gets easier and easier until you have a repli-car, a Franken-auto if you will.
Bought a replacement battery. It fires up almost immediately now.
This transmission is a piece of crap. There is supposed to be a vacuum shift modulator or some kind of kickdown adjust, but this thing keeps slamming down into first coming to a stop.
The passenger side is fine. The upholstery on the driver's side has completely fallen apart and one of the previous owners covered the entire thing with duct tape. It stinks, the duct tape is filthy, and leaves a sticky mess on you if you sit on it. It's still usable, hence the seat cover.
I would spring for a replacement bench, but I want to have the original seat recovered.
I hear ya....the Firebird was a grandma special when I got it no options really except a/c (which I kept) 350 cid 2 bbl carb/ 2 speed auto th200 if remember correctly, power steering and power brakes. I promptly pulled said motor and trans when i was 18 and replaced with a 400 cid 4 bbl / TH400. kept all options and there were a lot of speed parts....replaced the rear end with a 3.55 out of a 67 Firebird. It had like 2.73 or something. The car with the original 2 speed would do like 70 in first, but not a burn out in site...lol. This body style and options was the run of the mill so I really don't have a problem with all the upgrades / changes. I will never get rid of the car so i'm making it mine. It would be a different ball of wax if it was originally a 400 car or original 4 speed car, they were not a dime a dozen. By the time I'm done (hopefully) there will be a shortened rear end and a de-stroked 455 with 5 speed manual pushing it through the air....oh and 4 wheel disk ::)
Haven't got that far yet. I don't even know where this thing is located. :p
It could just be a vacuum leak.
I have been watching a Z28 slowly rotting away just down the road. Sad. Looks like maybe a 70's era. I can't understand why thy don't sell it. It just sits there on four flat tires.... on the wet grass as it rusts from the bottom up.
... on the wet grass as it rusts from the bottom up.
I hate those kinds of people. "I'm saving it." Not like that, you're not.
I have been watching a Z28 slowly rotting away just down the road. Sad. Looks like maybe a 70's era. I can't understand why thy don't sell it. It just sits there on four flat tires. It would be a great project for someone. (not me). Then there is the Studebaker Hawk rotting in the same neighborhood
For chuckles I looked up the cost of putting disks up front on 'Cuda. Part kits run about 8 bills but it also requires a rim (bolt pattern changes). Of course rally wheels would be nice along with an 8 3/4 rear with ten inch drums. $$$$ $igh.I can always use the standard Granada/Mustang II spindles. The "kit" is basically an adapter that you braise on to the base of the spindle.
WOW its in fairly good shape...how did you manage that bud....heheIt's amazing how nice a tiny, little picture makes it look. :-)
It's amazing how nice a tiny, little picture makes it look. :-)
It's going to look nice when I get to work on it. It's just the inside that's going to cost me some coin.
I ordered some "reproduction" seat covers for my 280ZX... nowhere close. The seams were off, it was missing some trim pieces. I was pissed. I'm going to call a couple of vendors and ask them for detailed pictures before I start ordering upholstery.
As soon as I can get it washed, I'm going to claybar it. It should be an improvement.
:rofl: Can't you just rinse it off with water?
I have a sealed driveway. Maybe I'll be okay.
I usually tend to be in the same boat as BattleHymn :rofl:
Just imagine if you missed even one tiny grain of dirt, and drug it across the middle of a smooth, flat panel of paint. :-)
I've found the easiest thing to do is drive cars that I don't worry about the paint on anymore. :whistling:
I usually tend to be in the same boat as BattleHymn :rofl:
It's... a bar of clay.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html#post313910
Interesting. Never would've thunk that a bar of clay takes off oxidation and above-surface contaminants.
I won't be doing that kinda work anytime soon, though. :tongue:
Interesting. Never would've thunk that a bar of clay takes off oxidation and above-surface contaminants.
I won't be doing that kinda work anytime soon, though. :tongue:
What condition is that Opel in? I thought it had something that looked like paint on it. :rofl:
Yea the PO painted the car.Say no more.
Say no more.
I'm really lucky. There's not a chip or scratch on this car aside from the damage on the right rear quarter that's been Bondo'd and painted over. My brother mentioned the fins might not be level, but I haven't broken out the straight edge and laser level to verify.
Nice pics Chris. Seat covers? Get an upholsterer it will be cheaper in the long run. Heck head to TJ for a Vacay and get it done there.The seat covers are temporary, to keep the duct tape and old stink off my clothes. They were only $30.
The one design element that bugs me is the giant greenhouse. I don't care for modern aesthetics that do the exact opposite, but riding around in a short car with a giant bubble on top is kind of weird.
That's my only complaint. I remember my friend's '72 Scamp was the same way.
HAHA man it the Jetsons don't ya know...that was the thing the auto designers did in the early to mid 60 was make more room man....all the hot rodders chopped the top and sectioned the body to get rid of the room....lol
I can remember my oldest brother's '50 Mercury "lead sled"... chopped and dropped, channeled, not a bit of bondo on it... sumbitch weighed about 500 lbs. more than stock!!! Those were the days!! :o :-) :hyper:
I bet a lot of people never heard of using lead instead of bondo. I had am MGB that had had work done on the hood before I got it with bondo that spider cracked something awful. The guy who re-did it was an old school guy who used lead. Never had a problem after that.
Looks like a real complex job. :bolt:
I wouldn't say that. The most complex part of the job appears to be making sure that the holes you drill out are where they need to be. Measure three times, and drill once. If you make a mistake and have a few holes that are wrong, just tell your friends those are speed holes you put in, for lightening purposes. :-)Don't tell anyone, but you can buy a template with the holes already marked.
Don't tell anyone, but you can buy a template with the holes already marked.
Yeah, I saw that. The cost of the templates is justified, based on amount of time it would take me to get the right metal, measure it, cut it out, cut the pilot holes, and then measure it all again.I think it should since the Fairlane and Mustang are both based on the Falcon. I've seen people say it worked on their cars.
I am unsure if those templates will work for your application. Do you know if they will?
Don't tell anyone, but you can buy a template with the holes already marked.
The hardest part to me looks like getting the spring out without killing yourself.
Yeah - this is what makes the job fairly complex. If you've done that type of job before and you've got the tools and the time, probably not a big deal. But compressing springs ain't in my genes.
:bawl: No improvement. It loses pressure immediately after being shut off and conked out again at a red light on the way home. I wonder if the fuel pump may be failing or not holding pressure. I don't see any fuel leaks.
It's a good thing fuel pumps aren't expensive.
I replaced the fuel filter in the tank but have not replaced the one attached to the fuel pump. It's still the one I was using last week with the old crud-filled tank.
Yeah, I'd say that's one of your problems then. DO you have a Mity-vac, or something else that you could use to apply vacuum to one side of the fuel pump's diaphragm?I have one somewhere. I tried to find it earlier today.
I'm wondering if a bunch of rust particles and other debris didn't wipe out your pump's diaphragm.
Yeah, I'd say that's one of your problems then. DO you have a Mity-vac, or something else that you could use to apply vacuum to one side of the fuel pump's diaphragm?
I'm wondering if a bunch of rust particles and other debris didn't wipe out your pump's diaphragm.
:II: he has the ticket...diagnostics id your friend not parts change.I have a fuel pressure gauge but I don't know if that would have helped in this case. I've never dealt with a mechanical fuel pump, so this is all news to me.
I have a fuel pressure gauge but I don't know if that would have helped in this case. I've never dealt with a mechanical fuel pump, so this is all news to me.
Another problem has occurred. The trunk won't open and my tools are in there. :(
I tried sliding the trunk lid side to side. No luck.
I'll call a locksmith and have him work on it while I'm at work. I don't care if he has to drill it out... lock cylinders don't cost much and a locksmith won't cost anything (roadside assistance is pretty awesome).
I wonder if this 2-bbl Autolite even has a choke on it. It starts up like it's cold-natured, or like it's not getting enough fuel when it's cold.
It sort of runs that way down the road too. It just feels weak. I have yet to replace the cap/rotor, thermostat, or plugs, though. I should be able to do that during the week if I do one or two things at a time.
If you haven't touched any of the ignition system, I would start with that first before fiddling with the carburetor.Not yet. I'm not really sure what I should be looking for. Does that require a timing light?
Have you checked your timing yet?
Not yet. I'm not really sure what I should be looking for. Does that require a timing light?
http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/ignition_timing.htmOkay, that's what I thought you were talking about. I'll give it a shot this weekend. Supposed to be nice here.
Do you have vacuum advance, and do you know if it is working? Have you looked inside the distributor to make sure the advance weights are free (not rusted/broken springs)?
Okay, that's what I thought you were talking about. I'll give it a shot this weekend. Supposed to be nice here.
This car has a little over 70k miles on it. I'm concerned about the timing chain... I don't know if it's ever been replaced.
Okay, that's what I thought you were talking about. I'll give it a shot this weekend. Supposed to be nice here.
This car has a little over 70k miles on it. I'm concerned about the timing chain... I don't know if it's ever been replaced.
I haven't looked at anything. :-)
I'll have to check and see what kind of distributor this is. It may require more than a cap and rotor.
Points and condenser? Unless the setup isn't original any more, I'd think that would be what you'd need.I already bought the parts but haven't put them on yet. I was going to do that Sunday but it rained all day. The only thing I had time for was replacing the fuel pump.
Even one that's 50 years old?
Again, I don't know if this thing's ever been changed.
That's an improvement. I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs. It's running smoother but still takes 2-3 tries to get it to start up after sitting overnight or for a few hours.
This points-and-condenser thing is a huge pain in the ass. :mad:
I was able to shim the point until I got the gap set to .015-inch. I removed the plastic spacer that came with the kit I ordered and used some washers from the hardware store.
Always check any point sets before you buy to make sure the points are actually aligned properly. If they don't touch each other dead nuts on, or one sits higher than the other, tell them to bring you another set.
:lol: yep those are nuggets of wisdom there. By the way Chris do you have a dwell meter? They come in handy for making sure your getting the most "fire" out of the coil.....not something you have to have but it helps.Yes, I picked up a dwell meter last year.
I left the timing alone. I replaced the cap and rotor and went for a drive. It ran fine. I got home, pulled the cap off, removed the condenser and the points and now it turns over but won't start at all.
I wish I could find some decent instructions. I don't get it. :argh:
Maybe you should replace the condenser and the points.I just did. It won't start.
After that, you probably need to re-gap the points.
I just did. It won't start.
Sorry, I edited my post again.
I left the timing alone. I replaced the cap and rotor and went for a drive. It ran like it always has. I got home, pulled the cap, replaced the condenser and the points and now it turns over but won't start at all.
I wish I could find some decent instructions. I don't get it. :argh:
Have you checked whether you're getting a spark for the plug wires?Not yet. I guess I will start on that tomorrow. I spent most of my day trying to get the points gapped correctly.
If it is single points, double check your distributor shaft isn't warped.A Petronix Ignitor is looking pretty attractive right now.
Or better still, get an electronics points replacement -- easy to install and obviates physical points and the gapping thereof.
Not yet. I guess I will start on that tomorrow. I spent most of my day trying to get the points gapped correctly.
I left the timing alone. I replaced the cap and rotor and went for a drive. It ran like it always has. I got home, pulled the cap, replaced the condenser and the points and now it turns over but won't start at all.
I wish I could find some decent instructions. I don't get it. :argh:
I picked up a cheap remote start trigger and I'm a little lost. Let's say I want to pull the #1 spark plug to check for a spark... do I bridge the two starter terminals and leave the ignition switch on?
The instructions this thing came with don't help.
If you are using a remote starter, turn your key to the "ON" position. The remote starter is just doing the job of energizing the starter.I got that part. If I use the remote switch to crank the starter, the rest of the ignition system should fire, right?
If I use the remote switch to crank the starter, the rest of the ignition system should fire, right?
Don't forget to make sure you have 12 volts running to your coil, by running a meter across the two terminals on the coil with the key in the 'ON' position.I probably should have done that today but did not.
Why Old Cars SuckJalopnik (http://jalopnik.com/5551040/why-old-cars-suck)
You carburetor zealots can just go back to fishing your dropped jets out of the weeds in your back yard, because modern electronic fuel injection systems work perfectly 99.999999 and a bunch more nines percent of the time, and when you're done doing that... well, don't you have a sunk float or something to deal with?
It's a miracle that the voodoo-ass "technology" behind the carburetor worked as well as it did— remember how godawful those horrible electric chokes were, fellow old dudes?— and mechanical fuel-injection systems managed to be even less reliable. If I could have all the wasted hours I've spent futzing with carburetors back, I'd be years younger, I tell you what! In the modern, post-carburetor era, you stick the key in the ignition, you turn it, and the car fires right up. In the old days, you turned the key and prayed!
I probably should have done that today but did not.
Did you ever read Murilee Martin's take on carbureted points-ignition motors?
Jalopnik (http://jalopnik.com/5551040/why-old-cars-suck)
:censored: No spark @ plug #1
:censored: No spark @ plug #1
Your plugs are at the end of the high tension side of your ignition system. Start with the low tension side first. Check for 12V at the coil, then 12V at the points. If that is present, and only then, can you really begin to consider a fault on the high tension side of things.
I'm still betting it's a wire in the points that is grounding, causing them not to fire, because you mentioned everything was fine until swapped them over. Maybe I should make a detour on my way down to FL next week. :tongue:
I'm going to switch back to the old points. The new one is slightly different and doesn't seem to make very good contact with the condenser and distributor ground wires.
Okay, so I put the old points on, gapped them, and put everything back together. It will fire up and run for about a minute until it sputters and dies.
*sigh* More work to do.
I think it's just cheap piece of junk. I know I need to double check to make sure the distributor cam is lined up with the arm.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/points_zps83b08205.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/points_zps83b08205.jpg.html)
This is the "new" one. The metal band on the old one had a stop at the end... it wasn't open like this one. Also, the bump stop was fixed inside the body and not open. On this one, everything was loose and sloppy because there's nothing to hold it together.
I'll take a picture of the old one tomorrow.
That don't look right to me, Dad.
There's a screw that goes into that slot, like a bump stop for the lever arm. There was a piece of plastic holding it in place but I took it off and shimmed it with some washers. The lower part of the screw was screwed down by a couple of small nuts that the condenser and distributor wire were pinched between.
I got that part. The lever and the bump stop never touched.
Either way, it was a piece of crap. I've moved on to a different problem now. :p
:II:
I knew you would get it soon enough...Depending on your definition of "lumpy" that could be a few things from a fouling plug to vacuum leak. But there is always the points need a few more thousands. The book is factory spec range I have run into cars that needed a slight tad out of what was in the pages to run correctly. Now that you have proper tools to set them Id check the dwell and start tweaking some.
Back in the day, I always set the points to have a tad more spacing than specified. As they'd wear, they'd come down to the specified range.That's what I had heard.
That's what I had heard.
I have yet to hook up a dwell meter to the car. I should have time to do that after work today.
what's the timing on that engine?Something like that. Dwell is 26-28 1/2 degrees.
Never mind, I'll answer the question myself -- 10 deg BTDC (auto tranny).
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/polished2_zps473559ac.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/polished2_zps473559ac.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/polished1_zps5b5c99b1.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/polished1_zps5b5c99b1.jpg.html)
Not bad for 50-year-old paint. :p
I only did the tops of the fenders and the hood. Not a great job, but I'm no professional.
Hey looks great...how about a trip down here with that clay bar and have a go at my VW truck :rotf:I didn't drop it. :tongue:
I didn't drop it. :tongue:
Broke down again... the starter is fried.
I should have realized what was happening. It's not like I've never seen a starter go bad before. :banghead:
The cool thing is, you might even be able to rebuild the thing yourself. Those starters were meant to last, and actually rebuilt rather than thrown out. Or at least that's the way it used to be.
Are we shade-tree mechanics still working on that damn Fairlane?:rotf: It gets driven semi-regularly.
Hell, by now there are spiderwebs in the wheelwells and the rubber is all crystallized...
I picked up a replacement. I had a $20 store credit so it wasn't a big expense (they wouldn't let me use my store credit and my gift certificate at the same time. Bums). I'll have the current one rebuilt as a spare. I wonder if it's the original one... kind of hard to tell.
Time to break out the old bumper jack. Those regular hydraulic jacks don't work so well with this car.
Fords of that era were famous for the starter solenoid going bad and could usually be jumped with a screw driver IIRC. Fords solenoids were most often mounted somewhere in the engine compartment not internal to the starter. Use to sell a lot of them in the early 70's.
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGGTaOQkkAk[/youtube]
Fords of that era were famous for the starter solenoid going bad and could usually be jumped with a screw driver IIRC. Fords solenoids were most often mounted somewhere in the engine compartment not internal to the starter. Use to sell a lot of them in the early 70's.When the starter motor is smoking and stinking like burned metal, it's a good hint what might be wrong. :-)
When the starter motor is smoking and stinking like burned metal, it's a good hint what might be wrong. :-)
The solenoid is mounted on the fender. I tried jumping the two connections and all I did was burn my finger.
When the starter motor is smoking and stinking like burned metal, it's a good hint it might be a Ford. :-)
The solenoid is mounted on the fender. I tried jumping the two connections and all I did was burn my finger.
FIFY
My 1989 F 150 has the solenoid mounted on the fender.
I got the old starter pulled. It's the original one or at least the housing is.
It's a tight fit between the transmission oil cooler lines and the frame. Goober sure earned his keep in Mayberry, I'll say that.
It rained on and off most of the day. I didn't have a lot of time to work.
I'm still having the same cold-start issues I was having before. It took me five minutes to get the engine to fire up and stay running after sitting for a week. I let it warm up for a few minutes and shut it off. It started up again with no problems.
With the Firebird I had the same problem years ago and I had the header problem as well so I went to a an electric choke. The other key to the solution at least with me was change out the rubber fuel line along the system. I knew I was having problems with the fuel lines cause I was having a lot of stuttering at about 6k rpm. The lines in the back were sucking air and starving the engine. After I changed the lines I had no more hard starts or high RPM stutter...have you changed any of the original rubber lines along the system?
I tried to read the part of the service manual for the automatic choke but it just gave me a headache.
Got the tail light reassembled... guess I'm legal now. The fancy backup-light bulb is exposed until I can find something to cover it with. Think I'll just use a plastic ramekin and some glue. Good thing I ordered two entire sets because the other tail light cover is cracked as well.
Got my cold-start problem solved... I replaced the automatic choke thermostat. Started up fine.Will it be ready to take to the next baconfest ?
It runs a little rough and I still need to change the thermostat but it's more driveable and doesn't stall.
Will it be ready to take to the next baconfest ?I hope so. I'm tired of having a 3,000-pound lawn ornament.
Wish I could replace all of them with SU carbs. :-)
Aftermarket throttle-body kits have hit the big league, but they're a couple grand after taxes and shipping.
Hm, weird. I loosened the nut holding the air cleaner cover about half a turn and my car's idle improved immediately.
I think it's voodoo.
Wish I could replace all of them with SU carbs. :-)
No.
If I have to take the carbuertor off, I'm just going to rebuild the entire thing (I have a feeling it needs a new accelerator pump anyway -- it stumbles when you stomp on the gas too hard).
Hey hey, NOW you're speaking my language!! :cheersmate: :drool:I can live with that. :rofl:
(http://www.britishv8.org/Other/Pete/turner3a.jpg)
Well, vacuum leaks can be free to fix, for the most part. I did notice you mentioned swapping that 2bbl to a 4bbl (I would do the same), but I didn't know if you were trying to limp it along in the meantime, or just throw in the towel altogether.I'm trying to get it to run well enough for it to be a reliable daily driver -- something I can jump in to a couple days a week and take it to the office without being half an hour late.
I'm trying to get it to run well enough for it to be a reliable daily driver -- something I can jump in to a couple days a week and take it to the office without being half an hour late.
A 4-barrely conversion would probably happen after the rest of the car is finished.
Have you been hitting the interwebnets looking for a manifold and carb, or are you sticking with local junkyards?I found a 289 Windsor maniforld/carb combo for $75. Didn't say what kind of carb it was, only that it was a 4-barrel.
I found a 289 Windsor maniforld/carb combo for $75. Didn't say what kind of carb it was, only that it was a 4-barrel.
I noticed that after I turned the headlights on while idling in the rain yesterday.
John Twist also has relay schematics for the horn and an electric fan.
A buddy of mine has a lot of ford parts I can ask him if he has an intake and carb setup he wouldn't mind parting with if ya like. If he does it will be stock parts i'm sure but that's what you are looking for anyway correct?Yep.
Well its par for the course to have someone bypass the heater core. I like my heat so I fix them...lol
Up here it is nice to have to keep the ice off the windshield (among other 'things') in the winter. :-)
No luck. The original temp sending unit failed and both units I replaced it with are reading hot. Before the original sending unit failed, it was reading cool to normal during regular use. The only thing I've changed since then are the plugs and points.
If I have a resistance chart for the sending unit, I can take a measurement to determine if it's the coolant gauge on the dashboard or if the car is actually overheating. I ran the car until the temperature gauge read normal with the cap off and stuck a thermometer in the radiator and it read normal.
I'm stumped. I'm going to see if the store has a thermal sensor I can rent.
No luck. The original temp sending unit failed and both units I replaced it with are reading hot. Before the original sending unit failed, it was reading cool to normal during regular use. The only thing I've changed since then are the plugs and points.
If I have a resistance chart for the sending unit, I can take a measurement to determine if it's the coolant gauge on the dashboard or if the car is actually overheating. I ran the car until the temperature gauge read normal with the cap off and stuck a thermometer in the radiator and it read normal.
I'm stumped. I'm going to see if the store has a thermal sensor I can rent.
Checking the accuracy of a short sweep temperature gauge (one that uses a single terminal sender): This gauge typically has 3 terminals on the rear of the gauge (not including the light connections). It sends a signal out to the sender from the “S†terminal, and it is the senders job to vary this signals resistance to ground. With this said, for a sender and gauge to operate, then sender must be threaded into something that is grounded since the ground path for the sender is actually the sender mounting threads. The gauge itself really is nothing more than a fine tuned & calibrated ohm meter. To check the gauge, you will need a controlled and measurable resistance to ground source. Many shops that deal with automotive electrical repair have what is called a gauge tester, which is really a switchboard with different resistance values. The Auto Meter 100 to 250 degree, short sweep temperature gauge uses a specification of 1123 ohms of resistance to ground to = 100 degrees F, and 65 ohms of resistance to ground to = 250 degrees F. You may contact our Service Department for further specs.
If you do not have access to a gauge tester, you may always start with the sender. To check the sender, warm the engine up to a stable temperature. Have an ohm meter ready, as well as the tool(s) needed to remove the wire off of the sender.
With the engine running/idling, notice what the gauge is reading, and write this down the reading. With the engine still idling, remove the wire off of the sender, then hook the positive wire of your ohm meter to the sender where the sender wire was. Now hook the negative wire of your ohm meter to ground. What resistance do you measure?
I will give you some examples to help you determine what to do next.
Let’s say that the gauge read 210 degrees, and then you took a measurement of 123 ohms. This would mean that the gauge was reading exactly as it should. And if you thought the engine was running hotter than that, or colder than that, either the sender is the problem (remember the gauge was reading perfectly based on the information from the sender), or the engine really is running that temperature.
Another example for you: You suspect the gauge is reading hotter than actual, and you measure the resistance of the sender again. You measure 253 ohms, and the gauge reads 210 degrees. In this case, the sender is at 170 degrees (based on the resistance measurement), and the gauge is not responding the way it should. In this case, either the ground to the gauge itself is insufficient (which will cause a too high reading), or the gauge is out of calibration.
Never trust how a ground looks. If your gauge shows higher than normal and the sender tests where it should, then run a new dedicated ground from the threaded portion of the gauge ground terminal to an engine ground and see if the problem persists.
Damn. I was hoping you'd find a way for me to test the gauge while it was still in the car.Try running a dedicated ground to the gauge. I haven't seen your temp gauge, but you might be able to do that without even removing it.
I did not find a resistance chart for the sender unit.
Heh. $6 for the voltage regulator from a 1969 Ford F150.
I would have come home with brake rotors for my Toyota but don't have a 1 1/2-inch socket.
The Ford had the same 2-barrel Autolite carburetor but it was in a tough spot to get to. I need to snag one to rebuild. No luck tracking down a 4-barrel small block.
I would've guessed 289 4 bbls would be as common as fleas on a hound. :???:That's what I thought. I got nothing.
Poking around online, I found a reference that says a four-barrel Ford small block was only available in 1968 as a high-compression option.
The yards around here do not have anything earlier than the 90s... they do not help the other yards by sending you or calling to check for parts elsewhere either. My best friend in HS his uncles owned a yard in Minnesota, they had a intercom system with all the yards in the area, and they got kickbacks from other owners for the referral...they also had a better system layout in their yards than I have here. There were ford sections chevy sections etc. Col setups.
my 19th b-dayWow, I thought I was good at procrastinating.
Wow, I thought I was good at procrastinating.
Try running a dedicated ground to the gauge. I haven't seen your temp gauge, but you might be able to do that without even removing it.The temp gauge grounds to the instrument cluster body. :p
Did they weld the new fenders or some other method?
The Fairlane has a couple of rust spots that need to be fixed, mostly where the weatherstripping around the trunk failed.
Good luck with the junkyard trip hope ya find some stuff.You wanna help me rake some leaves?
You wanna help me rake some leaves?
Just made a trip to the grocery store for the wife....saw a damn nice pale yellow 65/66 2 dr HT Fairlane there....carry on.Nice.
No luck at the junkyard. I did a little better online. I found a guy in Clarksville, TN selling half a dozen Autolite and Motorcraft carbs. He's asking a little more than the junkyard wants (he's asking $50, they're usually about $30 from the Pull-a-Part) and I'm meeting him tomorrow.
I emailed one guy with a Holley four-barrel ($35) and another guy with a Holley intake for a Ford small block/Windsor ($80).
rebuilt, tuned and modified a Rochester q-jet and I got back the low end and had everything in between.
Yep and if you purchase a book or two for the part numbers and the tips/tricks, you can learn ALL the versatility that carb has...you can get the best of both worlds (to a point) of power AND economy.
yea what I meant but didn't convey properly that I think he should use a stock/modified autolite ...not q-jet....hehe Ill keep the q-jets. lol
Yeah, if I can keep my cat from knocking stuff onto the floor when I'm not there.
Yeah, if I can keep my cat from knocking stuff onto the floor when I'm not there.
hehe well you could shut the door...Well, the doors in the basement don't exactly close. :-)
Well, the doors in the basement don't exactly close. :-)
This house is pretty old. I'll have to get a wood plane and shave a few layers of wood and paint off the doors to get them to fit back into the doorjamb.
Well, the doors in the basement don't exactly close. :-)
This house is pretty old. I'll have to get a wood plane and shave a few layers of wood and paint off the doors to get them to fit back into the doorjamb.
I am not having any luck. I cleaned the pulley surface with some 180-grit sandpaper (I wore gloves) and can NOT find any timing marks on this motor at all. The only thing on the pulley is "2L" or "72"... it's hard to read. I disconnected the coil and bumped the motor all the way around with the starter and checked every inch of the pulley surface.
I think I found the timing indicator. It's a pointy nub that is part of the timing cover. There is no numbered gauge like later cars.
I hooked the timing light up to the #1 ignition wire and pointed the light at the pulley after cleaning it. It's nice and shiny, but there is just nothing there.
This (http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/images/Engine/C4AZ-6019-B.jpg) is the cover for the front of the engine. You can see the timing indicator @ 1:00
Not that I could see. Someone mentioned their 260 has a dimple on the pulley where TDC is supposed to be, but I didn't see one of those either.
I started taking the Motorcraft carb I bought apart. It's full of sand. :p
Looks like I'm going to have to do the timing the old-fashioned way. I built a pair of piston bump-stops for $8 (they sell for $20).
I thought that was to put a little drag on the distributor nut, start the engine then rotate the distributor until it sounded good. :whistling:I considered doing that, but the problem doesn't show up until after you've driven it for a while.
I thought that was to put a little drag on the distributor nut, start the engine then rotate the distributor until it sounded good. :whistling:
Been there done that wore out the t-shirt....some cars don't time well like that or you spend DAYS doing it....lolGet the coffee cup next time. They don't wear out as fast !
Plus if he wants to get after changing the internal timing curve he will need the light to check his work... was hoping you would find a chisel or a crayon mark for god sake when you cleaned it up.
Get the coffee cup next time. They don't wear out as fast !
:rofl: All the dirt and crap on the table is what came off the carb.
I'll pick up a can of Berryman's on the way home tomorrow. I didn't feel like paying $40 for it last weekend, but Auto Zone has it. I get $20 in store credit for every $100 I spend there, so I'll get some money back at some point.
Also, the manager at the Auto Zone (Jerry) is a ringer for Walter White. He's a really nice fellow but from some of the stories I've heard him tell, I don't think I'd want to get on his bad side.
Don't know who Walter White is but your buying goods from the man just be nice and you wont have any issues...if ya do go somewhere else...lolWhat? Debi's not making you watch 'Breaking Bad'?
What? Debi's not making you watch 'Breaking Bad'?
Dude, you're missing out. THAT is TV worth watching.
I'll bootleg you guys a copy after they release all five seasons.
I should probably make this easier on myself and take off the passenger-side valve cover. :p
I try not to do stuff like that. I don't know if the valve covers have ever been off the motor and I don't have a replacement right now.
No guts, no glory. What's a gasket among friends, anyway? :-)
I didn't start watching it until season 3. There's only a couple shows I try to catch regularly but my brother always has something planned. If it's not hockey, it's cooking shows.
Someone send him an application for "Chopped". You wouldn't believe how staged that show it.
In my youth I once rebuilt a '57 312 Thunderbird engine. The battery was weak when I dropped the engine back in the car and so it was dead before I got the timing and everything just so. So we pushed (automatic to boot) around the neighborhood for awhile and it never hit a lick. Stopped several times to check points gap, wiring, gas, timing......after about a half dozen of this adjustment stops with the distributor cap off each time I realized I had the rotor button in my pocket. :lmao:
I did much better with diesel engines.
No guts, no glory. What's a gasket among friends, anyway? :-)
Sheet cork, gasket shellac, and a ball peen hammer? :tongue: Now a cotter pin can be anything from a hair pin to diaper pin but that is a whole 'nuther story. Too bad they cheapened up beer cans and bailing wire. :whistling:
I got all the spark plugs torqued correctly, replaced all the wires in the correct order, and set the choke on the carburetor. Damn thing fired right up and ran perfectly. No stomping on the gas or stalling and the stumble seems to be gone.
I didn't take it for a drive since I removed the instrument cluster. I spent the rest of the day wiping off the hackberry crud with a wet, soapy towel. I forgot there was a car under there.
Cool glad you got it running smoothly,and got the timing mark sorted.I didn't quite get that far yet, but I'm hoping replacing the spark plug wires will help. I wonder if I mixed up one or two of them with the last set of wires I put on. I found out at the last minute that the #1 plug is already marked on the distributor cap. I was 180 degrees off.
I'm trying to get into the habit of using a torque wrench when re-installing anything. I paid for it, I might as well get some use out of it.
There's no harmonic balancer on this motor, only a belt pulley.
Hackberry Celtis Occiddentalis
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/PICT0262_zpsb14dde6a.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/PICT0262_zpsb14dde6a.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/PICT0263_zpsd4e86ab6.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/PICT0263_zpsd4e86ab6.jpg.html)
:mad:
Hackberry Celtis Occiddentalis
:mad:
I hate this time of year. By the time I get home from work, I've got about an hour of daylight left.
I might get some extra daylight after the DST change next week.
Um, Fall Back. You'll lose that daylight after work.:overreaction:
:overreaction:
I'm having a hell of a time finding 13-inch tires on Tire Rack.
My next choice would be to upgrade to a larger steel wheel with matching hubcaps or maybe some chrome dress rings. After conferring with some parts-counter goons, I spent the $50 on a replacement voltage regulator since neither one I have seems to be working correctly. There's a plastic re-chromer in town and I think they'll rechrome the instrument cluster for under $100 (their minimum order is $45). Got all the crud washed off and made some progress on the new weatherstripping... I took them out of the box and read the instructions.
I'm having a hell of a time finding touch-up aerosol paint for this thing. Ford used the same paint code/shade (B4) up until 2003 on the Taurus, F-150, Crown Vic under different names (Chestnut, Autumn Brown). I'm replacing the weatherstripping around the doors and some of it needs to be sanded back and repainted.
It doesn't have to be perfect. I'll settle for very close but PaintScratch.com wants $25 a can.
I've checked with O'Reilly's and DupliColor... they just don't make it. They do make B4 in those little pen applicator/scratch fixers, but not in an aerosol can. I found a place online that will mix a can for $20 plus shipping but I'm trying to get the bare metal covered before it rains again. There is a Sherwin Williams store that will mix automotive paint (acrylic enamel) into aerosol cans... I'm going to talk to them in the morning. If they can't do it for a reasonable price, I'm just going to order them online and pray for no rain.
It's only for the window frame and that will mostly be covered by the new weatherstripping, but I'd rather not have to primer over it and try to paint around the primer and new rubber later.
If you get a little flash rust from rain, it's not a big deal. Just make sure you carefully sand all of it away. You should really gently sand anyways to make sure your touch up coat sticks well.
Most do but this product was much stronger. It would take day or two surface oxidation off with just a spray. Great stuff but not needed just make sure to scuff up the area before you prime and paint.
I called Sherwin Williams... they only want $18 a can and I can pick it up on Wednesday. I ordered acrylic enamel, which is what I think the original paint is.
I called Sherwin Williams... they only want $18 a can and I can pick it up on Wednesday. I ordered acrylic enamel, which is what I think the original paint is.
here is a site that claims to give you the proper pain codes. I would do some more research.That's the one I used.
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1963&manuf=Ford&model=Fairlane&con=ymo&rows=50
I went window-shopping for an R134a compressor and the closest one I found that matches the weird setup on the Fairlane is a 1996 Explorer. The bolts will require some shims to get it to fit and I'll have to replace the evaporator as well.
Do you have vinyl seats?Yes :???:
Yes :???:
I was just wondering. Cloth seats I can stand to not have A/C. Vinyl is a different story. I don't like telling the temperature by how badly my legs have stuck to the seat.I just want the AC to work because the car came with AC from the factory. I don't care if the compressor doesn't match or if it runs R134a.
I put up with no A/C in the MG and the Z, because it's more work that it's worth for the amount I drive them.
Are they on a rheostat?I don't think so, but I could be wrong.
Good old Wal-Mart. They seem to be the only place left that sells 13-inch tires. They have the Kumho Solus, which is supposed to be a nice tire.
Good old Wal-Mart. They seem to be the only place left that sells 13-inch tires. They have the Kumho Solus, which is supposed to be a nice tire.
They also carry the Douglas Xtra-trac 2 in 13 inch. I think they're a 40k tire. We use those on the Metro and have decent luck with them.Yes, I saw those as well.
They're 41.50 each, IIRC.
CMD
Chris,
Several things:
The '63 isn't going to be the canyon carver than the other three are. Think of it as an older Olympic athlete. It can surprise but it won't ever do as well as later model cars.
Better steering (in line with your Datsun, BMW and MG) Unisteer rack:http://www.unisteer.com/ford/63-65-fairlane-rack-pinion-for-popular-small-blocks.html You'll never get the kind of precision out of the stock system that a rack will provide.
Adjustable strut rods (use rubber NOT urethane). This will allow for greater camber than the stock settings. Not sure where you will find these. '63 is a tough year series for Fairlane.
Larger 1-inch front bar. 3/4 inch rear bar.
New front springs and rear; contact Eaton Detroit Spring and discuss what you are looking for try and stay away from reverse springs. Rebuild the upper and lower control arms.
Hydraulic shocks. Eaton carries a full line of QA1s, we put them on the '65 hardtop and like the drive much better.
Good sticky tires like the BFG KDs mounted on plus sized rims. Be careful. The Falcon and Fairlane are bad about offset. Watch our video on setting up wheels if you don't already have some.
Structurally the sedan is much better than a hardtop. you still might consider a pair of home made subfram connectors and shock tower braces both from the cowl to the towers and from one apron to the other like the Mustang Monte Carlo bar.
Hope this helps!
Looks like good advice. Most will apply to all cars like the sub frame connectors and the like. Question is are you wanting to road race or are you looking for just a bit better handling. Some of what he is talking about is for road race cars....no need to spend that kind of scratch if you just want a better ride. I personally ALWAYS go way beyond what is needed cause I like the go-cart ride and like taking hairpin corners at 75mph....lolYes. :p
Yes. :p
I don't plan on racing it. I just want it to handle at least as good (or close enough) to the other cars I've owned. It's pretty much a pig on the road and any improvement would be miles above what came out of the factory. With the body roll this thing has, taking an exit ramp off the interstate is a little un-nerving.
Most of the items suggested have the option of either rubber or poly bushings. I may go with poly on the swaybars.
The first thing I'll probably replace are the shocks since it's an easy one to do.
Hm. Nobody seems to make a rear sway bar for a 1963 Ford Fairlane. This is going to be interesting.
Hm. Nobody seems to make a rear sway bar for a 1963 Ford Fairlane. This is going to be interesting.
If I owned your vehicle I would upgrade the springs, lower the front slightly , upgraded shocks and the front bar call it a day.That is the extent of my plans at this point. I still need to get the upholstery redone as well and have a few bits and pieces rechromed. I can hold off on paint for a year or two, I think.
put 15"s with the proper size tires to give you the correct speedometer rate and you will be shocked at the result. I was on the VW. it had 13" with an 80 sidewall, which I couldn't find anywhere that wasn't Chinese crap. I bought 15" Corrado wheels that fit with the proper BF Goodrich and the ride is remarkably better.I think the speedometer is off on this car as well. I picked up a new cable, but I need to see if the gauge is accurate since I have it out of the car at the moment.
I need to have that done to the speedo in my MG.Mine too. :-)
Mine too. :-)
It's just off. On my trip to Texas it said I was doing 95. My GPS said I was 10 MPH slower.
I found directions online on how to calibrate it several different ways, if you're interested in giving it a shot yourself.I'll check it out.
http://www.szott.com/lotusinfo/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf
What is yours doing? My needle is bouncing around like the dickens above about 35MPH.
I need to grease the cable, and make sure the brass bushing in the speedo isn't just dry before I send it off for some R&R.
My VW truck did that and turned out the cable was frayed and catching.
**** it. I'm tired of messing with this damn temperature gauge. I bought a new one... it was thirty five bucks.
How does it look?Looks like it's been sitting on a shelf since 1963.
Most of the items suggested have the option of either rubber or poly bushings. I may go with poly on the swaybars.
The first thing I'll probably replace are the shocks since it's an easy one to do.
This, do it. I changed out the rubber ones in my Camero and it made a big difference. Then (if your's does not have it), I added a rear bar. If you can go over-size on the front bar, do that too. It turned my Camero into a slot car, handling wise.
Make sure you keep those poly bushings lubed if you go with those. They will squeak and squeal like banshees if you don't- especially when it's cold.
They were the graphite impregnated ones. They never did squeak.
http://hooniverse.com/2014/02/21/career-change-80-acre-8000-car-salvage-yard-for-sale/
Anybody want to dip into their spare change and go halfsies?
Uh....no. I think I'll pass. :lol:
Awww, come on, Euph.
I'll let you drive the yard truck AND play your hornomophone thing all you want. :-)
I'm allergic to potatoes. :whistling:
You say...
Aha, it works. I cobbled together a water manometer (https://www.google.com/search?q=water+manometer&safe=off&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=R24SU5P6Dcas2wX2yYGwDg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAg&biw=1024&bih=679) from some rubber tubing and a spark plug adapter. It's very sensitive and holds pressure -- it should be enough to find maximum compression/TDC on any engine.
And I believe you can use the same apparatus to work on the SU carbs on the Bee! :-)I already have a similar gadget that fits around the air opening of the SU carb. Works like a charm.
Since all the seats and door panels need to be replaced, I'm considering doing them in white. That car gets blazing hot in the summer. I'll be keeping the red carpet. Having a hell of a time finding matching door panels for the sedan... all the ones I'm finding are for the Sport Coupe.
This is the closest photo I could find. It's not even a Ford.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/mopp_1002_07_plymouth_barracuda_and_satellitebarracuda_white_interior_zps6f66f8bc.jpg)Mopar Muscle (http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/featuredvehicles/b_body/mopp_1002_1968_plymouth_barracuda_formula_s_notchback_and_1969_plymouth_sport_satellite/photo_03.html)
Finally got rid of that damned Honda.
That color scheme would look good and the seats would be cooler.Those belt buckles soak up the heat. It's like picking up a hot fire poker and belting it around your waist. :rofl:
Can you get different shades of white?Probably. I'll have to talk to my upholstery guy. The doors and the seats will probably be done in the same material.
Probably. I'll have to talk to my upholstery guy. The doors and the seats will probably be done in the same material.
I don't know if you're interested in it, but you might be able to get cloth inserts instead of a full-vinyl seat. That would help keep the seats from being so hot when you sit down.I remember the vinyl seats in my dad's Suburban growing up.
That swap meet was a bust. Can you call it a swap meet when there's only shiny new parts for sale?
Since all the seats and door panels need to be replaced, I'm considering doing them in white. That car gets blazing hot in the summer. I'll be keeping the red carpet. Having a hell of a time finding matching door panels for the sedan... all the ones I'm finding are for the Sport Coupe.
This is the closest photo I could find. It's not even a Ford.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/mopp_1002_07_plymouth_barracuda_and_satellitebarracuda_white_interior_zps6f66f8bc.jpg)Mopar Muscle (http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/featuredvehicles/b_body/mopp_1002_1968_plymouth_barracuda_formula_s_notchback_and_1969_plymouth_sport_satellite/photo_03.html)
Finally got rid of that damned Honda.
I picked up a 15-inch wheel from a 1994 Grand Marquis. It isn't the style I want, but it's a match for the wheels I want on the car. It looks enormous next to the 13-inch wheels and tires on the car now. I'll have to measure it to see if it will even fit.You have this Ford and a MGB?
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/94marquis_zps59cd09d5.jpg)
http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4777418521.html
Red carpet, purple floor mats, gray and white interior, and stupid wheels. :thatsright:
Well, we've all seen worse. Everything there is easily reversible.Yeah, but it costs money to fix someone else's mistakes. :(
People are asking ridiculous prices for OEM wheels... $150 for one.:wtf2:
:wtf2:The Intronet (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=2000+Mercury+Grand+Marquis+wheel&safe=off&tbm=shop)
This car stinks. I don't even want to know what that stuff is on the floor. :puke:
It only took three attempts to find a car cover that fits. The first one was too large and kept blowing off. The second one was too small and tore around the corners. This one fits just right.
I'm only using it because the rubber around the windows is rotten and leaks.
You're right, they do fit as well as a hospital gown.
I managed to get three of the four window handles removed. I guess the clip just needed some motivation to get pushed out of place.
I flushed the engine and radiator today. There was no rust or crud coming out of the engine. Once the coolant was flushed, the water came out clean. I'll have to get the dash rewired to find out if I still have an overheating problem. I replaced the thermostat housing gasket and there are no leaks in the system at all.
What kinda shape is the water pump in? While replacing a WP on a V-8 isn't nearly the headache it is on a transverse-mount engine, it's a bitch when it decides to go belly up on you.I don't know yet. It isn't leaking, but I think I will probably have to pull it off at some point. Might as well do it now.
I don't know yet. It isn't leaking, but I think I will probably have to pull it off at some point. Might as well do it now.
...and then there are those 'special tools' necessary to access some fan bolts so you don't have to pull the radiator to pull the water pump. :whistling:I heard Honda used to do that in the 80s.
Seems like KD must make a few of those. Designers and engineers should really be forced to service the first car off a production line. :rant:
...and then there are those 'special tools' necessary to access some fan bolts so you don't have to pull the radiator to pull the water pump. :whistling:I've said that for....hell....all my life. Actually I add in "take it apart and put it back together".
Seems like KD must make a few of those. Designers and engineers should really be forced to service the first car off a production line. :rant:
It looks like someone has already screwed with the water pump. There is goop around the edges that looked like someone was too cheap to either buy a new one or put on a gasket.
Might as well pull it and take a look. I already have a full set of FelPro engine gaskets.
Fudge.
The rear passenger door lock is stuck. In Ford's infinite wisdom, there is no key lock on the rear doors, only the front . I had a locksmith come out here and he told me I needed to call a mechanic instead. I've been PB Blasting the inside of the door around the handle and lock pull knob.
The lock pull knob came off. There is an 1/8th-inch threaded bolt it attaches to. I could probably screw on a couple of nuts and try to pull it open. If I can get the door open, I can remove the door panel.
It's nice outside. We don't have nuclear radiation for sunlight like they do in Nevada... 70° degrees feels like 70°, not 110°.
Today was a beautiful 81 degrees when I had to report to work at 2 PM...not sure what it will be like when I return at 6:30 AM Monday. I hope I can sleep and quit watching these stupid car shows on TV.They are addictive.
They are addictive.
I forgot these were in the car. There are registration papers from 1968, 1973, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, and 1981.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/img001sm_zpsi4uvyjpz.jpg)
How does an auto parts store run out of lug nuts? I got one new wheel on but only had four lug nuts available. Also, finding a tire shop with the correct size tire was a pain.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1963%20Ford%20Fairlane/new_wheels_sm_zpss3ltnie8.jpg)
The wrap on the truck behind the car looks really cool.It should... it cost enough.
It should... it cost enough.
With winter looming on the horizon, you're going to slow down a bit, right?I wasn't planning to, but you never know.
1. Better steering (in line with your Datsun, BMW and MG) Unisteer rack: http://www.unisteer.com/ford/63-65-fairlane-rack-pinion-for-popular-small-blocks.html You'll never get the kind of precision out of the stock system that a rack will provide.
2. Adjustable strut rods (use rubber NOT urethane). This will allow for greater camber than the stock settings. I did find a company selling adjustable strut rods for the '63 Fairlane. http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Adjustable-Strut-Rods-pr-16135.html
3. Larger 1-inch front bar. 3/4 inch rear bar.
4. New front springs and rear; contact Eaton Detroit Spring and discuss what you are looking for try and stay away from reverse springs. Rebuild the upper and lower control arms.
5. Hydraulic shocks. Eaton carries a full line of QA1s, we put hem on the '65 hardtop and like the drive much better.
6. Good sticky tires like the BFG KDs mounted on plus sized rims. Be careful. The Falcon and Fairlane are bad about offset. Watch our video on setting up wheels if you don't already have some.
7. Structurally the sedan is much better than a hardtop. You still might consider a pair of home made subframe connectors and shock tower braces both from the cowl to the towers, and from one apron to the other like the Mustang Monte Carlo bar.
Oh yeah... forgot about the clogged radiator. It may be clogged, it may not be, but the car overheats like an SOB and if you run it with the cap off, it turns into Old Faithful after it heats up.
Think I need a new radiator. The fuel system was pretty rotten... I don't think the cooling system is any better.
I tried that with the gas tank with no luck. I think I'd rather pay someone else to do that for me, but it's still half the cost of a new radiator.
The radiator might be different, since the buildup isn't rust, but mineral deposits from the water used as coolant.Rock Auto sells an ADPI radiator for the same price as a local recorer and a third less than retail (Auto Zone). They're based in Texas but they are only listed as an importer and supplier so I don't have a way to tell where it was actually made. I tried to find a quick replacement at the junkyard today but didn't find anything comparable to what is already in the car.
In any event, I'd save your old radiator and have it reworked rather than buying a new one.
New radiator installed.
I had to go to two different stores to find a new upper hose and clamps. That and the Tree-B-Gon people held me up for a few hours.
Please tell me you flushed the cooling system before installing the new radiator.Yes.
I took a page from zeitgeist's book. Instead of flushing the fuel tank, I just bought extra filters. :whistling:
Pretty sure the carburetor is clogged. I have a spare carb and two rebuild kits. This is getting ridiculous.
1963 Fairlane
Thank you. I'm not much of a mechanic, but a bad day in the garage is better than a good day in the office.
BS. That is, the "I'm not much of a mechanic" statement. Anybody who can rebuild a carburetor is a pretty good wrencher, IMHO. Hell, you've got an entire generation of doods who wouldn't know a carburetor if it burped gas all over them.
****ing dumbass.
I pulled the distributor without marking it. Shit. At least the oil pump shaft stayed in place. I just need to find TDC to put everything back in place.
I'm tempted to steal the "Lipstick Red" (http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/paint1977tbird.html) from my brother's new Thunderbird Town Landau.