The Conservative Cave

Interests => Around the House & In the Garage => Topic started by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 04:33:18 PM

Title: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 04:33:18 PM
I had to nadin a picture because my shop manual still hasn't arrived yet, but they are definitely SU carbs.  Here are a set on a Datsun Z.

(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/wrekalot55/cars/240z/100_1484.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2012, 04:49:52 PM
I had to nadin a picture because my shop manual still hasn't arrived yet, but they are definitely SU carbs.  Here are a set on a Datsun Z.

(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/wrekalot55/cars/240z/100_1484.jpg)

Chris, what you should have on your MG are HIF4 SUs, unless someone changed them for an older set of HS4 SUs.  If the float bowl is integrated (as in the 'IF' in HIF4) into the body of the SU, they are probably factory.



What you've pictured there appears to be a 240Z or 260Z with a pair of bastard-heathen Hitachi flat top SUs, which are the spawn of satan, and not fit to be boat anchors. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 04:52:44 PM
:rofl:  I'll post some pictures of the engine when I get home later.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2012, 04:56:56 PM
I'm starting to think we're automotive brothers from another mother.  How many similar cars have we owned now??  There was the Volvo, the two Zcars you've had, and now the MGB.  It's not like were both buying white Ford Tauruses here, either.   :tinfoil2:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 07:18:16 PM
I looked at some 912's... I even considered flying out west to pick one up, but they were out of my budget.  I'm really happy with the MG other than it is not really a daily driver, at least not unless you lift weights for a living or live really close to work.  A 45-minute commute in this car is not going to be fun in the long term, but that's not why I bought it.  I drove this thing to a dozen different stops and back home yesterday and was wore out.  By the time I got home, my armpits hurt.

Here are a few quick pictures I took -- click on them for a bigger size. 

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors1.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=carburettors1.jpg) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors2.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=carburettors2.jpg) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors3.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=carburettors3.jpg)

My Hagerty's policy covers 5000 miles a year and only cost me $130.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 07:26:30 PM
I forgot about the Volvo.  Man, I hated that car. :rofl:

This MG could use a new suspension.  I noticed the front corner on the driver's side was pitched down when I got it up over 50mph.  I'm no Slim Jim, but I ain't that damn fat.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2012, 07:43:31 PM
Check to see if your oil in your lever shocks is where it needs to be at.  You might have one that has developed a slow leak.  I'm sure you know that the lever shocks are nothing at all like a modern car's suspension. 

I've never been that worn out from driving my B. :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 07:59:39 PM
I'll have to wait until my shop manual shows up unless University Motors has something on it.  I have no idea what lever shocks are.  Are they like torsion bars?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2012, 08:11:13 PM
Chris,

Nope, nothing like it.

Look up under there for a little guy that looks something like this: http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

I've topped mine up before with motorcycle fork oil.  If you lived closer, this would be easier.   :-)






Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 08:13:12 PM
Ah, I see.

What am I supposed to use?  I have 90W hypoid oil sitting around from the '83 ZX.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2012, 08:16:54 PM
Don't put hypoid in, that is WAY too thick. 

Try these suggestions: http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/Lever_shock_oil/1753223

My brother ran some hydraulic jack oil in his, and it worked out fine for him. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 08:18:40 PM
This thing is a ladies magnet.  The most attention I got from the Datsun were little kids who thought it was a spaceship and old guys. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 08:26:10 PM
Thanks to University Motors (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3Zfdj9W2Y4), I was able to fold down the top without damaging it.  There is a small tear in the vinyl that I made worse by not folding it correctly the first time.  Second time was a piece of cake. 

I'm pretty sure the tear came from not unhooking the snap above the driver/passenger seats.  Personally, I like the look of the matte black fabric top.  The vinyl one looks shiny and cheap (I have the receipt.  It was $500 for a new one).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2012, 09:04:01 PM
Thanks to University Motors (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3Zfdj9W2Y4), I was able to fold down the top without damaging it.  There is a small tear in the vinyl that I made worse by not folding it correctly the first time.  Second time was a piece of cake. 

I'm pretty sure the tear came from not unhooking the snap above the driver/passenger seats.  Personally, I like the look of the matte black fabric top.  The vinyl one looks shiny and cheap (I have the receipt.  It was $500 for a new one).

I could go either way with the top.  I think the matte tops don't really mesh as well with the period lines of the car, though. 

It is a ladies magnet, though.  I did warn you about that.  :naughty:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 09:05:46 PM
I got nothing but smiles from a carload of wimmin this week.  It was great.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2012, 09:15:38 PM
It ran pretty well when I took a trip to the store earlier today.  I think I'll drive it to work tomorrow.  I don't have any boxes to move, so it will just be me.

I had to move a 24-inch computer monitor to the secondary office down the street and it barely fit in the trunk with the spare wheel/tire.  I had my briefcase with my laptop in the front seat.  This thing has almost no room for luggage. :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on May 16, 2012, 09:18:44 PM
I got nothing but smiles from a carload of wimmin this week.  It was great.

Wimmin love little bitty British Sportscars. Smart wimmin do.   People who drive them know stuff about cars, you have to, or you have a full time mechanic.  Either way, it is all good.   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 17, 2012, 09:17:57 AM
Try these suggestions: http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/Lever_shock_oil/1753223

My brother ran some hydraulic jack oil in his, and it worked out fine for him.
Cool, that gives me an excuse to stop at the motorcycle dealer across the street and ogle some two-wheeled stuff on my way to the parts counter.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on May 17, 2012, 09:50:30 AM
I looked at some 912's... I even considered flying out west to pick one up, but they were out of my budget.  I'm really happy with the MG other than it is not really a daily driver, at least not unless you lift weights for a living or live really close to work.  A 45-minute commute in this car is not going to be fun in the long term, but that's not why I bought it.  I drove this thing to a dozen different stops and back home yesterday and was wore out.  By the time I got home, my armpits hurt.

Here are a few quick pictures I took -- click on them for a bigger size. 

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors1.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=carburettors1.jpg) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors2.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=carburettors2.jpg) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors3.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=carburettors3.jpg)

My Hagerty's policy covers 5000 miles a year and only cost me $130.


I had a Fiat 1200 Roadster as my first car. It drove like your MG. Still miss it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on May 17, 2012, 11:42:33 AM

I had a Fiat 1200 Roadster as my first car. It drove like your MG. Still miss it.

Me too.  Mine was a '59 with a dual Webber down draft.  I spent as much time reparing as driving that bad boy.  The old man use to say it was built from left over WWII 55 gallon drums.  And of course we all know the acromym Fix it again Tony!!

Now about the magnet effect may I just add when you go topless in a Benz Roadster this is what happens at stoplights.

(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/pongo70/benz.gif)

(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/pongo70/mercedesdetail024.jpg)

Drive it like you stole it  Boy do I miss that car.  The G6 is just not the same. :bawl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 17, 2012, 11:44:43 AM
You replaced that with a Pontiac? :thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on May 17, 2012, 11:46:48 AM
It didn't look too shabby with the top up either.
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/pongo70/PA200005.jpg)

nor with the soft top

(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/pongo70/mercedesdetail009-1.jpg)

and for a peek under ther hood

(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/pongo70/mercedesdetail013.jpg)

Did I mention I really miss that car??
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on May 17, 2012, 11:50:46 AM
You replaced that with a Pontiac? :thatsright:

I can flat tow the G6.  But yes, yes I did. :bawl:  You would not believe what it went for, a 97 SL 320 with less than 90k on the clock and no mechanical problems at all ( it was dealership maintained which is surprisingly cheap compared to Jap car service)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 07:07:53 PM
I had to go to Pep Boys to find hydraulic jack oil.  Going to try topping off my shocks this weekend because that drive out to the airport is a little scary when the front end starts to droop and sag above 50mph.  I really wish I had that shop manual because I have no idea what I need to do.

I stopped by the motorcycle shop and asked for fork oil but didn't know what weight to get.  Wal Mart sucked.  Good thing there was an old man working there who knew what I was shopping for (they were out).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 07:21:02 PM
Want me to snap some shots on my car of where to put it?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 07:21:58 PM
Si, senor.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 07:40:44 PM
Front:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0197.jpg)

Remove wheel, then remove bolt.  The bolt is a really loose 14MM or sort-of-better 9/16th (in other words, Whithworth, so use an adjustable wrench).  Top up fluid to level with hole, then reinstall bolt.

Rear:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0196.jpg)

Look behind seats, pull carpet on shelf behind seats.  Remove the little rubber grommets (the one I'm pointing at) to access shock bolt.  Remove shock bolt, then fill to where fluid is level with bottom of bolt when threaded back into hole.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 07:44:48 PM
Ah, very cool.  Thank you.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 08:22:52 PM
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAWH0EfMDfc&feature=related[/youtube]
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHtwY3_P9hE&feature=relmfu[/youtube]
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YltxeGCJYVw&feature=relmfu[/youtube]
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 08:25:04 PM
I've watched that before.  It's a great testament to the sloth and indifference inflicted by legislated equality.

I'm just glad my 1973 appears to have been assembled by someone that was relatively sober.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 08:39:50 PM
Wimmin love little bitty British Sportscars. Smart wimmin do.   People who drive them know stuff about cars, you have to, or you have a full time mechanic.  Either way, it is all good.   :-)
I was sandwiched between a Miata and a BMW Z4 in traffic.  It was a nice day.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 09:15:33 PM
I just got back from a spin in mine, and surprise, everything still works!

We've already determined there is a high statistical chance that the same slovenly Midlander that screwed together your car also screwed together mine. 

We should probably still keep our fingers crossed.

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0199.jpg)

A quick and dirty picture from tonight (literally, quite dirty).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 09:25:10 PM
That's a great picture... love it.  Had someone ask me today if it was an American car.  No, try again.

There's a Goodguy's show this weekend (domestic cars only) and my insurance agent is going to be there.  I'm considering driving over there to see if they will let me park next to the Allstate tent at the show.  He acted like a kid at Christmas when I told him what I'd bought. :-)  (I bought my Hagerty's policy through him.)

I like Buick's senior compacts... the Rover 215cid V8 (http://ateupwithmotor.com/compact-and-economy-cars/80-buick-special-skylark-rover-v8-3800-v6-history.html) is too nice to ignore.  I just wish the management at GM had been a little more open with their design/marketing ideas in the late 60's and early 70's.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 09:30:55 PM
Your trunk lid doesn't look crooked.  I think you could pilot the Titanic through the panel gap on mine. ::)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 09:34:22 PM
Wait until you have to buy some gasket something-or-another at Autozone or Oreilly's or the like, and they tell you that your 1.8 is a Mazda motor...  :p

If you get to do the Allstate thing, snap some pictures!  I also really like the 215.  That is a really cool motor.  It's a shame it wasn't used to its full potential.  One of those would really scoot in a Sprite/Midget.  



Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 09:38:04 PM
Your trunk lid doesn't look crooked.  I think you could pilot the Titanic through the panel gap on mine. ::)

No, mine is probably about as straight as they come in that regard. 

Somebody probably tried to shut your boot lid without releasing the prop rod, and tweaked the fitment.  You might also have a boot lid seal that is too fat, causing it to sit proud. 

I'm not an anal car person, but I always try to shut all the doors/boot lids/etc on the B.  It's just too easy to forget something like the prop rod, and then bend something.  I'd rather be at fault and cuss at myself then make someone else feel bad about doing it themselves.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2012, 10:15:28 PM
I've never been to the local car shows (GoodGuys/Hunters).  It's always the same old A/B-body stuff from the mid- to late-sixties.  Yawn.

There WAS a Plymouth Cranbroook (http://www.curbsideclassic.com/curbside-classics-american/curbside-classic-1951-plymouth-cranbrook-automotive-immortality/) at the same dealer that had an MG B and a '65 Ford Galaxie for sale last year but I was not interested in a boat like that.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 18, 2012, 11:06:50 PM
I've never been to the local car shows (GoodGuys/Hunters).  It's always the same old A/B-body stuff from the mid- to late-sixties.  Yawn.

There WAS a Plymouth Cranbroook (http://www.curbsideclassic.com/curbside-classics-american/curbside-classic-1951-plymouth-cranbrook-automotive-immortality/) at the same dealer that had an MG B and a '65 Ford Galaxie for sale last year but I was not interested in a boat like that.

I hear you there.  I don't bother hitting any of the local car shows around here because of that reason.  My brother calls them 'asshole' cars- since everybody has one.  That Cranbrook would be fun to have for about a month.  After the novelty wore off, I'd probably try to get something smaller and more tossable.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 19, 2012, 03:33:04 PM
I topped off my lever shocks on the front.  It didn't take much but it made a difference... I think I could drive this car all day long and not get tired of it.

Went to the car show and got rained on. 

Lots of gaudy, tacky crap.  Some good stuff, though.  I knew I should have registered my MG for the show... there was a small section for foreign cars (two Beetles and a Thing).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on May 20, 2012, 08:14:58 AM
I topped off my lever shocks on the front.  It didn't take much but it made a difference... I think I could drive this car all day long and not get tired of it.

Went to the car show and got rained on. 

Lots of gaudy, tacky crap.  Some good stuff, though.  I knew I should have registered my MG for the show... there was a small section for foreign cars (two Beetles and a Thing).

Did you get a tonneau cover?

(http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/pics/tt13.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 20, 2012, 04:24:32 PM
I did, it's in the trunk along with the tonneau frame.  I haven't messed with it yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 20, 2012, 04:29:16 PM
I did, it's in the trunk along with the tonneau frame.  I haven't messed with it yet.

I never thought the lines of the B lent themselves well to the tounneau cover.  The MGA, the T, and the F, on the other hand, look great with them.

When you say 'frame', do you mean the crossbar that goes behind the rear seats?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 20, 2012, 04:32:24 PM
Yes.  It has the original jack and a couple other pieces as well, along with a full-sized Rostyle spare wheel and tire.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 20, 2012, 04:39:03 PM
Is your tire original on your spare?  I believe mine is.  I keep it in the garage, so I could go out and look what make it is.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on May 21, 2012, 11:36:43 AM
The tonneau is nice if you don't want to put the top up but don't want to come back to a saturated seat.  I wish I had the option on the G6.  Those nasty little local rain clouds always move in when you have left the top down and dashed into here, there,  or  wherevern for just a second (only to end up behind the person who has all pennies or a complex question only a Rabbi could answer). 



Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 21, 2012, 04:04:09 PM
My shop manual arrived today.  It has 'Idaho Falls Public Library' stamped on it and has the Dewey decimal tag on the binder. :rofl:

629 is the automotive section if you're interested.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 21, 2012, 07:35:45 PM
I always like getting the old library fix-it books like that!  I've got quite a collection.  If any members need fix-it manuals for any number of SAAB, Renault, Subaru, Volvo, Peugeot, Hillman, Fiat, Opel, Simca, or Volkswagen, I'm your man. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 21, 2012, 10:22:26 PM
Good luck unloading that Simca manual. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 21, 2012, 10:43:05 PM
Say what you want, but the satisfaction level of the male customers who have to drop a load in my toilet is through the roof.  :-)

They make excellent toilet reading material.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 22, 2012, 09:54:52 PM
I managed to scare myself today (twice).  I made a sharp turn and/or lane change and the rear end felt like it wanted to come off the ground.  Very bouncy and very scary.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 22, 2012, 10:36:56 PM
Are your rebound straps in good shape?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 22, 2012, 11:00:40 PM
I don't know. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 22, 2012, 11:14:22 PM
They're cheap to replace, and easy to change. 

They look like this:

http://cdn2.autopartsnetwork.com/images/catalog/wp/full/W01331635602OEA.JPG

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 27, 2012, 07:17:13 PM
$21 for a new pair with shipping.  Not bad.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 27, 2012, 08:07:21 PM
Where did you get them?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 27, 2012, 08:11:05 PM
Victoria British.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 27, 2012, 08:20:09 PM
You might want to add these to your list of go-to parts people:

The B Hive is a great place for parts, too.  Gordon is the real deal, and he knows his stuff.  I've had him call me and correct a mistake I made on an order, based on other parts I was ordering at the same time.

http://thebhive.com/ 


Also, if you ever get around to sorting out your distributor (even if you think it's working, the advance springs might be worn, or the shaft might be eating its way into your housing), you can't beat Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors.  All told, we've bought or sent in four distributors to him, and they are all absolutely top-notch.  I even had him do a specialty recurve and vacuum advance for my distributor after I installed the supercharger. 

http://www.advanceddistributors.com/
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 27, 2012, 08:21:01 PM
Awesome.  You can't beat great customer service.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 27, 2012, 08:22:40 PM
The only problem I've had, other than the rear suspension, is the occasional rough idle and stall.  It doesn't happen every time I drive the car, but it happens often enough to be annoying.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 27, 2012, 08:24:38 PM
The only problem I've had, other than the rear suspension, is the occasional rough idle and stall.  It doesn't happen every time I drive the car, but it happens often enough to be annoying.

Does it do it after it's warmed up, or when the motor is cool, or when?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 27, 2012, 08:25:44 PM
Doesn't matter.  I drove it for an hour last week and when I got to the light at my exit, it stalled.  It doesn't seem to be related to engine temperature.

Also, when I stopped to get gas once, the temperature gauge went into the H after I restarted it.  I switched the engine off and turned the heater on and it eventually cooled down to normal.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 31, 2012, 02:55:54 PM
My rebound straps arrived.  They are heavy rubber with a red canvas core and have '051' stamped on them.  I won't be able to get them changed immediately.  I still have to call the movers next week and I have a hornet nest I need to take care of.  I'm not hanging out with those angry ****ers flying around.

I'm thinking of having my Rostyle wheels refinished.  It looks like they were painted from a spray can and look like crap.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on May 31, 2012, 03:30:57 PM
My rebound straps arrived.  They are heavy rubber with a red canvas core and have '051' stamped on them.  I won't be able to get them changed immediately.  I still have to call the movers next week and I have a hornet nest I need to take care of.  I'm not hanging out with those angry ****ers flying around.

I'm thinking of having my Rostyle wheels refinished.  It looks like they were painted from a spray can and look like crap.

If they're paper wasps, it's not too bad. Wait till twilight when the damn things have quieted down for the night, then blast 'em with the spray that'll nail 'em from 20 feet away.

If they're regular wasps or hornets, that's a different animal. Now we're talking wasp suits and enclosed wrists and ankles (not to mention headgear) and there's some sort of powder to inject in the nest opening.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 31, 2012, 03:35:47 PM
I think it was a paper wasp.  It was small and brown, not yellow.

I'm not in the mood to get stung twice.  That damn thing hurt.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on June 01, 2012, 10:06:02 AM
Are your rebound straps in good shape?



I asked my wife that, and got slapped.   :mad:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 07:32:29 PM
I may need to replenish my smoke supply...

My indicator/turn/brake lights have gone out.  The goons at MG Experience recommended checking the relay and keeping some spares handy.  Have you noticed this, BH?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 07:34:24 PM
Let me look at my wiring diagram...
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 07:38:07 PM
Strange. The wiring diagrams in my Bentley manual stop at 1971 or so. 

Someone said it was the green wire from the fuse box.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 07:40:23 PM
Ok first, for your turn signals, did you toggle your hazard switch back and forth a bunch of times? 

You're trying to clean the contacts that way...
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 07:44:28 PM
http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/MGB.jpg

Here is the diagram I am using.

Note how your signal flasher's power is taken through the hazard switch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 07:44:42 PM
No, never heard of it.  I'll give it a try.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 07:45:44 PM
Lucas Electric: Get Home Before Dark
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/medium_1c36aeee893747630a5184c24a7046e3.jpg)

Nice to meet you, Mr. Lucas.  Your reputation precedes you.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 07:46:48 PM
Did you ever get around to cleaning ALL of your grounds?  That should solve 90% of your problems.  Hopefully.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 07:47:43 PM
Nope.  I haven't done anything to this car since I bought it last month.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 07:56:52 PM
That would be the first place I would start, then. 

As far as your headlights and taillights not working- check your headlight switch.  If the car went through any period of disuse, you may just be experiencing switches that need to be 'cleaned' by using them. 

The guy who had my car before me was very particular about keeping the electrics clean.  I am that way, too.  Three out of four fuses in my 'big' fuse box are original.  All of the in line fuses are original.  It CAN be done.  Mr. Lucas doesn't HAVE to be inevitable.   :-)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0219.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 08:04:34 PM
This is a good site to use.  It looks like web 1.0 but hey, who cares: 

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext1.htm

These are the ones you want:

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext1.htm#turnswitch

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext2.htm#lights

The link on the second one contains the wiring diagram for the lights.  As you can see, it's pretty basic.  If everything is out, it's either your fuse box, or your switch.  You'll also note that if your care is still wired properly, your lights run on the RED wires coming off of your fuse box, not the GREEN wires.



Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 08:40:21 PM
Ok first, for your turn signals, did you toggle your hazard switch back and forth a bunch of times? 
Holy crap, it worked. :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2012, 08:41:53 PM
My tail lights are different colors. One is red, the other is amber. :bs:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2012, 09:37:02 PM
Holy crap, it worked. :yahoo:

I'm telling you, the same slovenly Midlander that put your car together put mine together, too.  It's like deja vu. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on June 30, 2012, 05:56:49 PM
I'm telling you, the same slovenly Midlander that put your car together put mine together, too.  It's like deja vu. 
All over again...-Yogi Berra-
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 30, 2012, 08:42:07 PM
I forgot about the joys of open-air vehicles during summer.  Dumpsters!  Garbage cans!  Diesel trucks!

I got squirted in the face by someone's lawn sprinkler. :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on July 01, 2012, 07:56:59 AM
I forgot about the joys of open-air vehicles during summer.  Dumpsters!  Garbage cans!  Diesel trucks!

I got squirted in the face by someone's lawn sprinkler. :lmao:

That's great for a nice pick-me-up.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 01, 2012, 09:14:05 PM
That's great for a nice pick-me-up.
It was like getting slapped with a wet fish.  Never saw it coming.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on July 02, 2012, 12:28:58 AM
It was like getting slapped with a wet fish.  Never saw it coming.
At least you didn't get hit with the Luca Brasi treatment.

edit on hot.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 02, 2012, 02:16:13 PM
At least you didn't get hit with the Luca Brasi treatment.

edit on hot.

Reminds me of a story abou riding a motorcycle in FLA without a helmet back in the day.  Hurts like the dickens to get hit by a palmetto bug in the forehead, darn near tore me off the bike (I was doing about 70 at the time).  Not to mention the mess and red welt. :argh:

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 02, 2012, 02:29:52 PM
Reminds me of a story abou riding a motorcycle in FLA without a helmet back in the day.  Hurts like the dickens to get hit by a palmetto bug in the forehead, darn near tore me off the bike (I was doing about 70 at the time).  Not to mention the mess and red welt. :argh:
Those suckers hurt.  I used to ride around in a t-shirt and would get smacked by bugs and rocks all the time.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 04, 2012, 06:19:31 PM
BH, did you have an issue with your car getting warm while sitting in traffic or running at high speeds for a prolonged period?  I was on the interstate for about half an hour at 70mph and my car started running warmer than usual (halfway between N and H).  It also started running hotter than normal when the weather got warm in June.

My coolant level is good and I'm not seeing any leaks.  I think I may have a sticking thermostat and picked up a replacement.  I haven't had a chance to change it out yet.  I've had to turn the heater on to cool it down to something normal... that sucker puts out some nuclear sized heat.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 04, 2012, 06:35:12 PM
BH, did you have an issue with your car getting warm while sitting in traffic or running at high speeds for a prolonged period?  I was on the interstate for about half an hour at 70mph and my car started running warmer than usual (halfway between N and H).  It also started running hotter than normal when the weather got warm in June.

My coolant level is good and I'm not seeing any leaks.  I think I may have a sticking thermostat and picked up a replacement.  I haven't had a chance to change it out yet.  I've had to turn the heater on to cool it down to something normal... that sucker puts out some nuclear sized heat.

No.  I never had any heat related problems.  The first thing I would look at would be any leaks; which you say there are none.  Next would be the thermostat. Thirdly, has the radiator been flushed? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 04, 2012, 06:36:54 PM
It has not been flushed.  I'm going to change the thermostat out this weekend and see if that fixes the problem.  I meant to do that last week but got sidetracked with my stupid Toyota.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: freedumb2003 on July 04, 2012, 06:54:17 PM
I had to nadin a picture because my shop manual still hasn't arrived yet, but they are definitely SU carbs.  Here are a set on a Datsun Z.


Here is a set on a Mini:
(http://cdn2.funnycorner.net/funny-pictures/6098/car-with-boobs-funny-cars.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 06, 2012, 08:02:56 PM
I hate to admit it, but it's cooler with the top up in this blazing heat.  I did not expect that.

Maybe I should invest in a few more black shirts.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 06, 2012, 09:08:57 PM
I hate to admit it, but it's cooler with the top up in this blazing heat.  I did not expect that.

Maybe I should invest in a few more black shirts.

You will bake with the top down in this weather.  Leave it up!  Do you have the zip-down rear window? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 06, 2012, 09:10:21 PM
Nope.  I don't have a problem leaving it up, but it makes it difficult to see the stop lights. :rofl:

It was supposed to rain tonight.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 07, 2012, 12:53:58 AM
Yeah, I hear you there.  I am not a tall person, but I find myself stooping like I have a bad case of hunchback to see a light when I have the top on.

You know, it might be easier to look at the reflection of the traffic lights on the hood and fenders than actually catching a glimpse of the actual light.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: redkatz919 on July 07, 2012, 12:13:31 PM
 :cheersmate: Hey guys, time for a couple of questions? A man was passing through, in an MGB-GT? It was love at first sight. He says parts are easy to find, and someone my size can fit in sort-of. (6-1,215 pushing 60)
  Any comments?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 07, 2012, 01:12:36 PM
The GT has a taller windshield than the convertible -- you should have plenty of headroom.  Legroom is decent.  I'm 5'11 and 235# and I fit in the roadster pretty comfortably with the top up.   You might have a little trouble with the short doors, but it doesn't take much practice to get in and out.

Go for it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 07, 2012, 01:46:57 PM
Chris is right.  What is so deceptive about how big of a person these cars can swallow is due to how the legroom is positioned.  The footwells actually go past the engine, so when you are in the car with your feet on the firewall, your feet are almost in line with the #3 cylinder, and your shins are roughly at the flywheel. 

I am relatively short (5'6"), so I don't have any problems with the legroom.  Getting out of the car is a different matter altogether, though, as even someone my height has to be careful about not tearing up the door cutout trim with my shoes.  Once you get used to how to manipulate yourself out of the car though, it's easy. 

I'd love to have an MGBGT, or even an A, but they are hard to find around here.  They're easy to work on as long as you don't mind getting a hunch in your back from stooping over.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 07, 2012, 01:54:35 PM
:cheersmate: Hey guys, time for a couple of questions? A man was passing through, in an MGB-GT? It was love at first sight. He says parts are easy to find, and someone my size can fit in sort-of. (6-1,215 pushing 60)
  Any comments?

If you want to work on it yourself, you will need 11" fingers. Also popular with the ladies. Oh....and a can of Lucas replacement smoke.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 07, 2012, 02:10:43 PM
If you want to work on it yourself, you will need 11" fingers. Also popular with the ladies. Oh....and a can of Lucas replacement smoke.

Oh, they're not that bad to work on at all!  I'd much rather work on the B than on any of my Volvos, or any other newer car.  Somehow I've managed to avoid any need for a can of Lucas smoke on my car.  Clean those grounds, and keep all the connections clean, and hopefully Lucas won't come knocking.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 07, 2012, 02:13:18 PM
Oh, they're not that bad to work on at all!  I'd much rather work on the B than on any of my Volvos, or any other newer car.  Somehow I've managed to avoid any need for a can of Lucas smoke on my car.  Clean those grounds, and keep all the connections clean, and hopefully Lucas won't come knocking.

Sorry, old British car jokes from my youth.  I was a sucker for them too.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 07, 2012, 02:20:54 PM
Sorry, old British car jokes from my youth.  I was a sucker for them too.

Oh, no worries. I'm used to hearing them, anyways.  I can see chris' skin has went three sizes thicker since he bought his, too. 

Someday I'll have to find and scan in all the old tiny cars my grandfather and my father had through the 50's up into the 70's.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 07, 2012, 09:27:18 PM
I've actually moved the driver's seat forward from the all-the-way-back position I was using originally.  There is plenty of room.  My brother is 6'3 and fits fine.

Finding room for big-assed feet might be another issue.  I wish this car had a dead pedal to the left of the clutch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 07, 2012, 09:59:14 PM
I'd love to have an MGBGT, or even an A, but they are hard to find around here.  They're easy to work on as long as you don't mind getting a hunch in your back from stooping over.  :-)
I used to be able to do a lot of the work on my Datsun from my knees. 

I keep knocking the weatherstripping off the door frame with my foot exiting the car.  I want to glue it in place but it looks brand new.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 08, 2012, 12:12:57 AM
Did you try taking it off, and seeing if it has that metal core that you can pinch a little so that it has a better hold on the car?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 08, 2012, 12:16:44 AM
Did you try taking it off, and seeing if it has that metal core that you can pinch a little so that it has a better hold on the car?
I don't think it does, but I will take another look.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: redkatz919 on July 08, 2012, 12:17:27 PM
 :-)  Thanks for the advice guys. I'm checking e-bay next, I've got an itch for a new toy.
   Now how can I explain it to the wife?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 08, 2012, 03:40:43 PM
Swapped out the thermostat.  It seems to be behaving itself now.  It still runs a little warm but cools down immediately once you start moving.

I had to pry the old thermostat out with a screwdriver.  It was in there pretty good.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 08, 2012, 07:34:47 PM
Swapped out the thermostat.  It seems to be behaving itself now.  It still runs a little warm but cools down immediately once you start moving.

I had to pry the old thermostat out with a screwdriver.  It was in there pretty good.

 :o  I hope it was the same one you use to open paint cans.

I have to go looking for pictures of my old B.  Do you still have the third  W/W wiper on that one?   I remember taking it off on mine but darn if I can remember why. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 08, 2012, 07:37:18 PM
:o  I hope it was the same one you use to open paint cans.

I have to go looking for pictures of my old B.  Do you still have the third  W/W wiper on that one?   I remember taking it off on mine but darn if I can remember why. :rotf:

They all had a third wiper from 1969 on.  It had something to do with amount of windshield vs. amount of windshield that was being wiped with the wipers.

I just noticed the other day that my brother's FJ Cruiser has three wipers, too. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 09, 2012, 08:40:43 AM
Worst air filter housing design.  Ever.  I actually cut myself changing it out and now my car doesn't run right.  I know the base and housing aren't sealed properly... I'm going to have to reinstall it without that stupid rubber hose connecting them for now. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 09, 2012, 08:48:32 AM
:-)  Thanks for the advice guys. I'm checking e-bay next, I've got an itch for a new toy.
   Now how can I explain it to the wife?
Here's something (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQqvVb6wvF4&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL2D0B981982C204C7) you might enjoy (I love this show).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 09, 2012, 07:05:29 PM
Worst air filter housing design.  Ever.  I actually cut myself changing it out and now my car doesn't run right.  I know the base and housing aren't sealed properly... I'm going to have to reinstall it without that stupid rubber hose connecting them for now. 

I've had the original cans for both of my MGs, but they came with K&N filters and housings on both of them, so I just left them on. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 09, 2012, 07:26:05 PM
I've had the original cans for both of my MGs, but they came with K&N filters and housings on both of them, so I just left them on. 
I replaced the dirty air filters and managed to get the cans installed correctly today, but I left off the air hose that connects the two cans in the middle.

I really need a tuneup.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 13, 2012, 07:45:02 PM
The crankcase breather on my engine seems to be clogged.  I disconnected the breather hose at the Y fitting and it ran perfectly.  I reconnected the hose going to the crankcase and it goes back to running rough and stalling at lights.  Now it only wants to cut out if I stomp on the brakes and slosh the fuel around the float bowls.

Ordered a Unisyn from Victoria British.  $45 with shipping.  I should have ordered it on Monday... it would be here by now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 14, 2012, 10:25:06 AM
The crankcase breather on my engine seems to be clogged.  I disconnected the breather hose at the Y fitting and it ran perfectly.  I reconnected the hose going to the crankcase and it goes back to running rough and stalling at lights.  Now it only wants to cut out if I stomp on the brakes and slosh the fuel around the float bowls.

Ordered a Unisyn from Victoria British.  $45 with shipping.  I should have ordered it on Monday... it would be here by now.

Does it have the fuel tank evaporator loss canister system?  If so make sure it is working properly.  One thing I do remember from the old days was having a problem with that an it dumping raw gas into the oil pan.  "Gee look, there is almost no oil pressure and the dipstick is way over full."   

The EPA crap all but destroyed the MGB engine in the 70's .  I had a '61 A and a '72 B  side by side one day.  You could sit a cup of coffee on the A and never see a ripple, the B,  no amount of tuning could get it to do that. 

Does it have an Air Pump and air injectors on the head?   Does it have a header and Abarth exhaust or stock?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 14, 2012, 10:39:57 AM
The air pump has been removed/blocked off.  I think everything else is stock. 

Yes, there is an evaporator canister on the car.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 14, 2012, 11:00:26 AM

Ordered a Unisyn from Victoria British.  $45 with shipping.  I should have ordered it on Monday... it would be here by now.

 :rofl: I do the same thing, procrastinate, then grouse when I think that it could have already been here if I hadn't procrastinated.

Quote
Now it only wants to cut out if I stomp on the brakes and slosh the fuel around the float bowls.

Dollars to donuts, if you haven't pulled your fuel bowls and cleaned them, they're full of sediment that is trying to get sucked up.  
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2012, 05:29:44 PM
I finally got my Toyota's master/slave cylinders swapped out and the clutch is working again.  I'd be driving it, but the battery died while it was sitting.  I'm waiting for it to charge, so I get a couple more days to play with the MG until it's back to the Camry for a few weeks.

Time to shop for new control arms, springs, and struts.  I'm going to upgrade everything to the SE suspension with a new set of harder Eibach springs.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2012, 08:47:33 PM
The previous owner installed one of those shitty plastic dash caps and it is starting to come off.

It looks good (it's not warped), but I'm thinking of taking it off and covering it in heavy vinyl to make it look a little more presentable, or trying to fix the original soft dash pad.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 15, 2012, 09:03:06 PM
The previous owner installed one of those shitty plastic dash caps and it is starting to come off.

It looks good (it's not warped), but I'm thinking of taking it off and covering it in heavy vinyl to make it look a little more presentable, or trying to fix the original soft dash pad.

Is it a full cap, or a partial cap?  Is it pretty bad?  Do you have a picture?

Without looking at it, I would try to glue it back down if I were you.  I'd use Automotive Goop, or Liquid Nails.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2012, 09:04:07 PM
It's a full cap.  It's not too bad.  I almost didn't notice it.  If the padded dash is fixable, I can top if off with some new vinyl and it would look much better.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 15, 2012, 09:11:17 PM
Quote
Time to shop for new control arms, springs, and struts.  I'm going to upgrade everything to the SE suspension with a new set of harder Eibach springs.

You should not have any struts on your car, unless someone screwed up your suspension (there is a kit out there to convert the rear axle to struts).

Word on the street is Apple Hydraulics is the best place to get your lever action shocks: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm

I recycled a drop kit I had from my first MGB (rubber bumper) which basically consists of new front coils, and some lower blocks for the rear axle.  I'm not sure if they are stiffer than the originals (I assume a little bit, since they are shorter) but I can tell you I certainly wouldn't want them any stiffer.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 15, 2012, 09:14:20 PM
It's a full cap.  It's not too bad.  I almost didn't notice it.  If the padded dash is fixable, I can top if off with some new vinyl and it would look much better.

Those dashes have a metal backer.  When my brother refurbished his dash, he stripped it down to the backer, and bought a whole new dash (foam and vinyl) and glued it to the backer.  It looked sharp.  I'm not sure where he bought it, though.  I could ask him if you're interested.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2012, 09:15:45 PM
You should not have any struts on your car, unless someone screwed up your suspension (there is a kit out there to convert the rear axle to struts).

Word on the street is Apple Hydraulics is the best place to get your lever action shocks: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm

I recycled a drop kit I had from my first MGB (rubber bumper) which basically consists of new front coils, and some lower blocks for the rear axle.  I'm not sure if they are stiffer than the originals (I assume a little bit, since they are shorter) but I can tell you I certainly wouldn't want them any stiffer.

This is for the Camry.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2012, 09:16:41 PM
I only saw the right side of the dash, but everything looked okay.  I'm hoping the foam is in good shape... I would just re-cover it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 15, 2012, 09:19:04 PM
I only saw the right side of the dash, but everything looked okay.  I'm hoping the foam is in good shape... I would just pull it and re-cover it.

Do you have any of those little hairline cracks on the dash right where the steering column comes out?  That is the only visible defect on my dash (it does have a cap, though).  I think the previous owner pushed the dash with his knee while he was driving, stressing it on that area.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2012, 09:21:50 PM
Not that I noticed.

I pulled the mat and carpet from the passenger side today.  It has some pretty bad surface rust and seriously cracking paint, but nothing terminal.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 16, 2012, 01:00:46 PM
Holy cow, that was fast.  My Unisyn showed up today.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 17, 2012, 09:05:57 PM
Still having problems with the ignition switch/wiring/and-or fuel pump.  I turn the key and get nothing.  If I let it sit, it may come back on.  It's done it twice before.  I replaced the ignition relay with another 5-pole 30-amp gizmo but I don't think that's my problem.  My fuel pump makes a big 'klonk' before it knocks out all my electrics.  Like I said, if I let it sit, it comes back on. 

edit: I was told to check the ground going to the fuel pump.  Will do.

I got a chance to look at the rebound straps.  They're completely gone.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 17, 2012, 10:31:10 PM


I got a chance to look at the rebound straps.  They're completely gone.

That might explain some of your more interesting handling characteristics.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 18, 2012, 01:35:53 PM
That might explain some of your more interesting handling characteristics.  :-)

I actually saw a B today for what I think was 4495.  May have to see what's up with that.  It looked pretty good going by at 60mph. :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 18, 2012, 01:48:02 PM
They'll do 60, but I think the 110mph speedometer is extremely optimistic.  Mine seems to run out of oomph around 75mph but I haven't tried to go any faster than that.

It's definitely an around-town car and no speed demon.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 18, 2012, 04:02:49 PM
No luck so far.  I'm going to try this and if it does not work, I may need to replace the ignition switch.  At this point, nothing works when you put the key in the switch and turn it.  I found a good color diagram and had it printed and laminated, and everything I'm having an issue with runs through the ignition switch.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=jVxIW_pImjw#t=204s[/youtube]
3:22
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 18, 2012, 04:41:17 PM
They'll do 60, but I think the 110mph speedometer is extremely optimistic.  Mine seems to run out of oomph around 75mph but I haven't tried to go any faster than that.

It's definitely an around-town car and no speed demon.

I'll have to top mine out this evening and see what the GPS says I'm doing. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 18, 2012, 04:42:46 PM
Chris, did you check your main negative battery cable connection?  What is your resistance from the terminal to the body?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 18, 2012, 04:43:06 PM
I have not done that.  Removing the battery covers is a pain in the ass.

What grade of oil do you use?  I swear my Bentley manual says to use 20w50 but that doesn't sound right.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 18, 2012, 05:30:49 PM
I have not done that.  Removing the battery covers is a pain in the ass.

What grade of oil do you use?  I swear my Bentley manual says to use 20w50 but that doesn't sound right.

I can only figure you are familiar with this site?

(http://www.mez.co.uk/smoke2.jpg)
http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html


Smoke Check. 

(I was doing 60n when I spotted the B).  I don't remember what you can get out of one but I have seen some modified that go real fast. :naughty:  More money = more speed.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 18, 2012, 05:42:07 PM
I use Shell Rotella 10-30W.  It is actually for diesels, but it works great in my B. 

You are in about the same climate that I am in, so that weight should work great.  Just make sure whatever you are using for oil is compatible with a flat-tappet engine (hence my choice of Rotella).  If not, you can run any type of additive that puts ZDDP back into your engine oil.  If you don't know what I'm referring to, read this: http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/ZDDP.htm   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 18, 2012, 07:04:47 PM
I can only figure you are familiar with this site?

Smoke Check. 

(I was doing 60n when I spotted the B).  I don't remember what you can get out of one but I have seen some modified that go real fast. :naughty:  More money = more speed.


I tried kidding around with them earlier with some Lucas jokes.  Having been a British car owner (1 MG Mig & 2 Sunbeam Tigers), I recall loosing my sense of humor also.  You recover quickly after disposing of said vehicle.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 18, 2012, 08:14:34 PM
I tried kidding around with them earlier with some Lucas jokes.  Having been a British car owner (1 MG Mig & 2 Sunbeam Tigers), I recall loosing my sense of humor also.  You recover quickly after disposing of said vehicle.

Oh, I'm all about the Lucas jokes.  I'm just making sure Chris' car is in tiptop shape before I feel ok about laying them on him. 

We don't want to discourage him.  :naughty: :fuelfire:

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 18, 2012, 10:57:28 PM
Oh, I'm all about the Lucas jokes.  I'm just making sure Chris' car is in tiptop shape before I feel ok about laying them on him. 

We don't want to discourage him.  :naughty: :fuelfire:



I'll hold off on telling my dashboard fire story.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 19, 2012, 04:10:22 PM
I'll hold off on telling my dashboard fire story.

Do share.  Chris can just close his eyes and skip past this part :-)


I've only had one fire, and it was more-or-less a freak accident.  One of the metal loom holders under the hood had cut through the insulation on a wire, and it was grounding through the loom holder.  That was not fun. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on July 19, 2012, 08:09:26 PM
I love this thread, I follow every post, even though I don't post in it much. Please do continue, and carry on smartly as you have been.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 19, 2012, 09:40:21 PM
Smoke Check.  

(I was doing 60n when I spotted the B).  I don't remember what you can get out of one but I have seen some modified that go real fast. :naughty:  More money = more speed.


Zeitgeist, I have a few mods on my B.  I have a link of a drive I did at night a few years back.  You can hear the supercharger a few times through the video if your speakers are decent.  I listed what I did to it in the description of the video.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48DGvkaH85Q[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 19, 2012, 10:16:43 PM
Do share.  Chris can just close his eyes and skip past this part :-)


I've only had one fire, and it was more-or-less a freak accident.  One of the metal loom holders under the hood had cut through the insulation on a wire, and it was grounding through the loom holder.  That was not fun. 

So (bouncy start) I was cruising through Killeen TX with a friend I in my freshly painted 65 Tiger & he in his Corvette. Pull up side by side at a stop light when my Lucas ammeter decided to fuse itself into a molten lump.  It produced a mushroom cloud & I performed a undignified exit from the car. Needless to say I received a lot of heat from folks in my unit. I even got hammered 12 years later when I ran into one of the guys from the unit at a reunion.  I still regret selling that damn car.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 20, 2012, 01:44:14 PM
Zeitgeist, I have a few mods on my B.  I have a link of a drive I did at night a few years back.  You can hear the supercharger a few times through the video if your speakers are decent.  I listed what I did to it in the description of the video.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48DGvkaH85Q[/youtube]

Nice.  Some of the comments reminded me of one of the funniest things I ever saw, a fully blown mini taking on  a '68 Z/28 Camaro (the year was either 68 or 9  when this occured) on a Boulevard in Coral Gables.  They were both winding when they went by creating what sounded like a flight of angry bumble bees.
 
Next funniest thing?  Drags featuring a VW and a fueled Vette.   The Bug was staged about half way down the track an still lost. :rotf:

My stick shift story from the other thread ?  Driving my '55 TR2 when the slave cylinder died.  Yes, you can start it in gear, but, first gear didn't have syncro.  You had to just jump it off with the starter, and, powershifting is not for the feint of heart but can be done. 

My old B only had headers and Abarth exhaust plus fully jetted SU's without the antiback fire throttle plates .  It was still plenty peppy.

May have to look at that B I saw when I sell the 'Cuda.   :whatever:   But I an also  thinking about doing a "battery operated" VW Thing.    :naughty:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 20, 2012, 04:21:20 PM
I just noticed Chris hasn't been back to comment on this thread.  I tried to tell you guys!!  :rotf: :popcorn: :-)




Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 20, 2012, 04:23:39 PM
My car is still parked at work and it's been raining since Wednesday.  I can't do anything until Saturday.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 20, 2012, 04:29:16 PM
My car is still parked at work and it's been raining since Wednesday.  I can't do anything until Saturday.

I was worried we might have chased you off.  It turns out you are just hogging all the rain.   :hammer:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 20, 2012, 05:06:24 PM
I was worried we might have chased you off.  It turns out you are just hogging all the rain.   :hammer:
Yes, that's it. :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 20, 2012, 05:27:38 PM
Yes, that's it. :rofl:

Yep, story of my life, buy a convertible and never see the sun again. :whistling:

Not really Chris.  :rotf:

I only had a few minor problems with my B.  I did keep losing the fuel pump because of a bad fuse holder.  Took for ever to find that one. Car would stall out and not restart.  Shake it and it would start.  Finally figured out the electric fuel pump was losing power intemittently.  Finally found the problem at the fuse holder after pretty much probing every six inches of wire.  I was going nuts for quite some time with that one.   

My SIL OTOH ended up doing a complete new wiring harness in hers. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 21, 2012, 08:36:10 AM
Yep, story of my life, buy a convertible and never see the sun again. :whistling:

Not really Chris.  :rotf:

I only had a few minor problems with my B.  I did keep losing the fuel pump because of a bad fuse holder.  Took for ever to find that one. Car would stall out and not restart.  Shake it and it would start.  Finally figured out the electric fuel pump was losing power intemittently.  Finally found the problem at the fuse holder after pretty much probing every six inches of wire.  I was going nuts for quite some time with that one.   

My SIL OTOH ended up doing a complete new wiring harness in hers. 



As I recall, that was step 1 or 2 in the Lucas troubleshooting manual.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 21, 2012, 12:10:13 PM
I tried shaking it.  Didn't. work.

It turned out to be a bad battery cable.  I pulled the ground strap that runs to the body and it fell apart in my hand.  $8 and 15 minutes later and I'm back on the road.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 21, 2012, 12:15:56 PM
I tried shaking it.  Didn't. work.

It turned out to be a bad battery cable.  I pulled the ground strap that runs to the body and it fell apart in my hand.  $8 and 15 minutes later and I'm back on the road.


(huffs fingersnails, rubs on shoulder) :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on July 22, 2012, 01:33:55 AM

(huffs fingersnails, rubs on shoulder) :-)
Instant man icure.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 22, 2012, 01:42:40 AM
Mr. Lucas struck again.

I bumped the ignition switch wiring harness with my knee and the car stopped running.  I did eventually get it started, but my radio no longer works.

This is a joke, right?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on July 22, 2012, 01:47:48 AM
Mr. Lucas struck again.

I bumped the ignition switch wiring harness with my knee and the car stopped running.  I did eventually get it started, but my radio no longer works.

This is a joke, right?
Rube Goldberg was an optimist.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 22, 2012, 01:50:38 AM
The wiring harness is filled with butt connectors that are loose and like to slip apart easily.  I'm going to have to re-crimp all of them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 22, 2012, 08:21:33 AM
I need to see if my SIL still has my MG Bible.   Sometimes you just open it and read a few passages, for example: 

"Trouble shooting the electrical system"   

 :rotf:

I will keep you posted on my success in retrieving it.  She recently sold hers for 'parts'. (as in sometimes the parts are worth more than the whole)

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on July 22, 2012, 09:26:00 AM
Mr. Lucas struck again.

I bumped the ignition switch wiring harness with my knee and the car stopped running.  I did eventually get it started, but my radio no longer works.

This is a joke, right?

Just leave it set overnight & the radio will work & it won't start. The premutations will grow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 22, 2012, 12:09:42 PM
Chris the best thing for you to do is to hit every one of those butt connectors and clean each and every one of them, then re-seat them.  There aren't as many as you'd think.  The biggest ball of them is under the hood above the starter, and behind the fuse box. 

I've never tried to crimp any of mine.  Any time they've been loose, it's because they weren't pushed into the other end of the connector all the way.  I always seat mine with a needle nose pliers, being careful not to smash the insulation around the wire.  I find they can be quite stubborn and tricky to seat with just finger pressure, and that is probably what the previous owner did to your car.  They should almost 'snap' a little when they are pushed in all the way.  Try it with a pliers, and you'll see what I mean.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 22, 2012, 04:31:32 PM
MG B roadster back as SUV (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/mg/59305/mg-roadster-back-suv)

Blasphemy.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 22, 2012, 06:23:39 PM
MG B roadster back as SUV (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/mg/59305/mg-roadster-back-suv)

Blasphemy.

It has potential- you have to admit it looks better than most of the junk cars coming out of China (assuming that is the country of origin).

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 26, 2012, 08:57:26 PM
I'm surprised the fender/rear deck doesn't have chrome molding over the joint.  It could use some dressing up.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/1973MGB4.jpg)

I like small cars.  I can wash and wax this one in under an hour. :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 01, 2012, 10:08:16 PM
Do you have swaybars from the GT installed in your car?  I know my rebound straps are shot, but the ride in this thing could use some improvement. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 01, 2012, 10:26:30 PM
Not that I am aware of, unless one of the two previous owners installed them.  I've got lowering springs, lowering blocks, and 60K worth of wear on my suspension- that's it.

Honestly, my car really does feel awfully stiff with the two things I changed.  Any stiffer, and you'd feel like you're in a truck.  What on the ride are you trying to improve?  As far as your rebound straps, they will help to limit your rear suspension from bouncing all over the place. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 01, 2012, 10:31:15 PM
I guess I'll find out after I change the rebound straps, but sometimes it feels like driving a brick.  Very heavy and poor response around corners.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 02, 2012, 03:16:59 AM
I guess I'll find out after I change the rebound straps, but sometimes it feels like driving a brick.  Very heavy and poor response around corners.
I love lurking on this thread, and replying when I can fit in with the ambiance of the topic. I would say your car would be perfect for the Wheeler Dealer treatment. Have you thought about that ?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 08:35:55 AM
They've already done an MG B.  That's not to say they wouldn't do the same car twice... they have (Volkswagen Beetle and I think Land Rover Discovery).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 09:30:11 AM
I need to upgrade my steering wheel.  The previous owner replaced it with a smaller "sport" steering wheel that makes the car somewhat difficult to drive.  The original wheel is a few inches larger in diameter (and it looks better).

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1965_MGB_steering_wheel.jpg)

You can actually see the guage cluster behind the wheel.  Can't do that on mine.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/1973MGB29.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 02, 2012, 04:28:45 PM
That's an early wheel, if you didn't know.  The correct wheel for your car will look like mine.  I think the splines might be different on the early ones, too. 

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/wheel.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 04:31:09 PM
I know, but I really like the early one.  It's fancy.  :)

I can get one for a couple hundred dollars with shipping.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on August 02, 2012, 05:58:48 PM
I know, but I really like the early one.  It's fancy.  :)

I can get one for a couple hundred dollars with shipping.

I had the first one in the "A" the one BH shows in the "B".  The one you have?  Never seen one like it.  I always wanted a riveted wood one for the "B" but never pulled the trigger to get it.  ( looked like BH's but riveted wood vs black leather)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 06:02:02 PM
It's an aftermarket POS.  I don't like it at all.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 06:11:38 PM
Have you ever replaced your radio?  The one in mine is one of those removable-face units and it's stopped working entirely.  I think it may have gotten rained on.  I'm looking at a (waterproof) marine unit to replace it.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40560_MB-Quart-WR1-USB.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 02, 2012, 07:06:08 PM
Yeah, those banjo wheels are my favorite, too.  I'm also partial to the metal dash, but you buy what you can find with an old car. 



As far as the radio, mine still has the original British Leyland AM/FM model.   :naughty:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0446.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 07:30:48 PM
As far as the radio, mine still has the original British Leyland AM/FM model.   :naughty:
Pretty.

I think I want one with an iPod/MP3 input if I'm going to drive this thing down to Texas soon.  I only listen to three radio stations anyway.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 02, 2012, 07:32:44 PM
Pretty.

I think I want one with an iPod/MP3 input if I'm going to drive this thing down to Texas soon.  I only listen to three radio stations anyway.
XM is good for long trips too.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 07:46:21 PM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/finish.jpg)
Photo: Peter Sherman (http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2055577,page=1)

Sweet.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 02, 2012, 07:50:45 PM
Yeah, those banjo wheels are my favorite, too.  I'm also partial to the metal dash, but you buy what you can find with an old car. 



As far as the radio, mine still has the original British Leyland AM/FM model.   :naughty:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0446.jpg)

Does it still work???
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 02, 2012, 07:51:53 PM
Hey Chris.  My BF says you better bring your wentworth wrenches when you come to TX, cuz he doesn't know anyone that has any here anymore. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 07:52:21 PM
I'm using metric. :shrug:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 02, 2012, 07:58:54 PM
Iassa,

It turns on, but I have never hooked any speakers up to it to see if it's putting anything out.  I'm too busy listening to the supercharger whine.  :-)

Chris,

You have very few bolts on your car that are Whitworth- nothing I have found yet that I couldn't get to with an adjustable wrench.  Everything else is SAE, though not metric. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 02, 2012, 08:41:43 PM
My bad.  Forgot to tell the BF the year.  I am just reading him this thread.   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 08:46:24 PM
My bad.  Forgot to tell the BF the year.  I am just reading him this thread.   :-)
:ashamed:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 02, 2012, 08:48:41 PM
:ashamed:

Good reading none the less....  I read him this thread over dinner.  He said he can't wait to see your car when you come to Texas.  We's got metric wrenches.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 02, 2012, 09:31:27 PM
I'll be sure to wash and wax it before I leave.

I washed it last month... needs another bath, but it really does need to be repainted.  The hood is peeling and some parts look like they've been burned.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 02, 2012, 09:34:27 PM
I'll be sure to wash and wax it before I leave.

I washed it last month... needs another bath, but it really does need to be repainted.

I'd just wait till ya get to Wylie to wash it. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 02, 2012, 09:36:20 PM
I'll be sure to wash and wax it before I leave.

I washed it last month... needs another bath, but it really does need to be repainted.  The hood is peeling and some parts look like they've been burned.

satin black the hood.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on August 03, 2012, 02:09:22 PM
satin black the hood.  :-)

Point of Order, Mr. Chairman.

Ain't that the bonnet, rather than the hood?

 :whistling:   :fuelfire:   :-) 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 03, 2012, 02:15:05 PM
Racing stripes :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on August 03, 2012, 05:59:46 PM
Point of Order, Mr. Chairman.

Ain't that the bonnet, rather than the hood?

 :whistling:   :fuelfire:   :-) 

Absolutely correct.  Boot and Bonnet.

I really wish I had my camera today, saw a really nice red B all track numbered up with a driver's roll bar.  It looked fast just standing still. :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 04, 2012, 04:36:14 PM
I may have corrected my overheating problem.  I tried to purge the air out of the cooling system by taking the cap off the radiator and letting the car heat up to N.  I ran it to the store and sat in some traffic for a bit and it seems to be running cooler than before.  I guess it doesn't hurt that it's only 80º right now.

We will see. :p

My oil separator is clogged.  The closest thing I found to Choreboy were some "copper coated" pads.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 04, 2012, 08:13:38 PM
I may have corrected my overheating problem.  I tried to purge the air out of the cooling system by taking the cap off the radiator and letting the car heat up to N.  I ran it to the store and sat in some traffic for a bit and it seems to be running cooler than before.  I guess it doesn't hurt that it's only 80º right now.

We will see. :p

My oil separator is clogged.  The closest thing I found to Choreboy were some "copper coated" pads.

Try soaking your oil separator in a container of gasoline.  If it's metal, it should clean it right up. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 05, 2012, 05:51:15 PM
There is a joke in here about a British car's convertible top somewhere, I just know it:  

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/news/9453772/London-2012-Olympics-Heavy-rain-leaks-into-velodrome-and-soaks-marathon.html

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 05, 2012, 06:02:55 PM
The Michelotti Top

I can't complain about mine.  It doesn't leak at all.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 05, 2012, 07:52:27 PM
Absolutely correct.  Boot and Bonnet.

I really wish I had my camera today, saw a really nice red B all track numbered up with a driver's roll bar.  It looked fast just standing still. :yahoo:
I took a look at the List of Craig's today.  Lots of B's for sale, not many of them look as nice as mine for the price or are overpriced rubber bumper models.

for sale (http://nashville.craigslist.org/search/cto?sort=priceasc&query=mgb&srchType=T)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 05, 2012, 08:02:14 PM
So I was watching the Wheeler Dealers MG BGT episode, and the guy at the MG Owner's Club says the Rostyle wheels are painted silver with the black accents applied by hand.  It looks like one of the previous owners decided to do it the other way around and painted them completely black. 

Not a good look.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on August 05, 2012, 09:07:10 PM
There is a joke in here about a British car's convertible top somewhere, I just know it:  

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/news/9453772/London-2012-Olympics-Heavy-rain-leaks-into-velodrome-and-soaks-marathon.html



The joke in the 60's about the soft top on the AC Ace & Shelby Cobra was that it was guaranteed to keep at least 60% of the rain off you.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 05, 2012, 09:08:35 PM
I never understood why roadsters were so popular in a country where it rained and snowed 200 days a year.

At least the defogger/heater work great in my car.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 05, 2012, 10:03:32 PM
I never understood why roadsters were so popular in a country where it rained and snowed 200 days a year.

At least the defogger/heater work great in my car.

I have the answer.  I love this episode! :-)

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mm7JZgRHy8[/youtube]

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_325874&feature=iv&src_vid=1mm7JZgRHy8&v=Q-DAimDAOlg[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 05, 2012, 10:52:26 PM
With all this topless talk on here, I got excited and drove from NW Arkansas to Memphis today, topless.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 05, 2012, 10:54:52 PM
With all this topless talk on here, I got excited and drove from NW Arkansas to Memphis today, topless.

You were pretty close to my neck of the woods.  Did you get rained on?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 05, 2012, 10:57:08 PM
You were pretty close to my neck of the woods.  Did you get rained on?
Just missed it. I saw that it was a gullywasher. Gina is in the same neck of the woods. Wonder if she got soaked ?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 07, 2012, 06:40:09 PM
I got a new set of tires today... Falken SNS-828.  I'll let you know how they work out.

My spare was an old bias ply.  I'm going to hang it in the garage as an antique.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 07, 2012, 06:41:35 PM
My spare was an old bias ply.  I'm going to hang it in the garage as an antique.

That's the same thing I did with mine.  I think it's a Dunlop.  I'd have to look.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 08, 2012, 08:10:20 AM
This is an improvement.  Low-speed steering with the new tires has gotten a lot better... it takes less effort (almost none) to steer under 15 mph.

Still want a larger steering wheel.  I think I'm going to look for one today on eBay.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 08, 2012, 06:37:37 PM
Went to Hobby Slobby and picked up enough vinyl to cover two dashboards.  Fifteen bucks and some change ($17.32 including the bag of Reisen candy).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 08, 2012, 06:52:08 PM
Went to Hobby Slobby and picked up enough vinyl to cover two dashboards.  Fifteen bucks and some change ($17.32 including the bag of Reisen candy).

Did you use the 40% off coupon?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 08, 2012, 06:55:31 PM
I forgot :thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 08, 2012, 10:03:30 PM
 :ha:

I forgot :thatsright:

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 08, 2012, 10:04:11 PM
It's cheaper than buying a new dashboard. :whistling:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 08, 2012, 10:05:10 PM
That's true.  You should take before and after shots. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 12, 2012, 04:11:46 PM
 :rant: I already got a flat with one of my new tires.  I think there might be something wrong with that wheel because that's the same one that went flat before.

Checked both carbs with the Unisyn.  The front one was fine, the rear is running lean and the mixture screw is maxed out.  The rear carb is sucking more air than the front so I adjusted the idle and fuel mixtures until I got it closer to the front one, but it is still running lean.  I did not check the oil level in the air pistons.  They're both sitting a little high -- I'm guessing they're dry.  I will have to check them later.

I may have had the backing plates on my air filters upside down and was blocking the breather hole.  I think I got them installed correctly. 

Next week, drain and flush the cooling system.  Is the coolant supposed to look gray when the water pump is running?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 12, 2012, 04:13:45 PM
That's true.  You should take before and after shots. 
Hmm.  I didn't realize the entire dashboard was a single piece.  I was only looking at the plastic cap.  This looks like slightly more work than I wanted.  I think I may just cover the plastic cap with vinyl and reattach it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 12, 2012, 05:39:14 PM
:rant: I already got a flat with one of my new tires.  I think there might be something wrong with that wheel because that's the same one that went flat before.

Checked both carbs with the Unisyn.  The front one was fine, the rear is running lean and the mixture screw is maxed out.  The rear carb is sucking more air than the front so I adjusted the idle and fuel mixtures until I got it closer to the front one, but it is still running lean.  I did not check the oil level in the air pistons.  They're both sitting a little high -- I'm guessing they're dry.  I will have to check them later.

I may have had the backing plates on my air filters upside down and was blocking the breather hole.  I think I got them installed correctly. 

Next week, drain and flush the cooling system.  Is the coolant supposed to look gray when the water pump is running?

I would change your coolant.  It's cheap insurance.  I've used a variety of oils for the SU dampers.  Right now I'm using engine oil in mine.  Works great.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 12, 2012, 08:58:26 PM
Well, this stinks.  I went messing with the wiring under the dash to see if I could get my radio to start working and now the car won't start.  Again.  The starter motor turns over but the engine will not run.  I can bridge the 3rd and 4th fuses and start the car with the key and it will run as long as those two circuits are connected, but I don't want to do that long-term.

Also, that same left rear tail/marker light is out again.

This is getting annoying.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 13, 2012, 12:14:18 AM
When you bridge fuses #3 and #4, which side are you bridging?  Brown (#4) to White (#3), or Purple (#4) to Green (#3)? 

Your ignition circuit feeds off of the #3 fuse.  See if you have power to the white wire running to your coil in the 'ON' position, without bridging the fuses. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 08:03:36 AM
If I bridge the brown and white posts of the fuse box, everything (lights, gauges, fuel pump) work normally.

I replaced the starter relay but that was not the problem this time.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 07:11:10 PM
I think the problem is either the ignition relay or switch.  I switched the white/brown and brown wires on a new relay and the damn car started and ran without the key and without bridging the fuses (the ignition switch was reversed).  I am trying to determine the correct wiring because the wiring diagram I have does not show a 5-pole relay that the car came with.  There is a fifth yellow/red wire that I think may be connected to the seat belts and tail light.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 13, 2012, 08:20:59 PM
I would SO trade you problems right now, chris!
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0498.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 08:22:52 PM
How much damage (other than the fender)?

Oh, and the radio in my car works.  WTF.  I think I need a new ignition switch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 08:27:22 PM
I'm still fixing the fender bender I had in my Camry.  Bent hinges, broken headlight mounts.  Lots of little stuff.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 13, 2012, 08:29:51 PM
He got the fender, corner lamp, and the headlight filler.  I saw him coming out of the corner of my eye.  He ran straight into the side of the car. 

What did you do to the Camry? 

Oh, and my brother had to buy a new ignition switch for his B, and I had to buy one for my first B.  They seem to be a weak point. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 08:33:33 PM
I had a small fender bender before I bought new tires.  I slid into the back of another car because it was raining.  So far, I've replaced the hood, a headlight, one side marker light and the bracket that holds the headlight in place (about a hundred bucks in parts and way too many hours of work).  Once I got the new hood on, I found out both fenders and one fender liner were bent in the accident so they'll need to be replaced now.

It's a lot of little jobs that are a pain in the ass.  Next time, I'm just buying a parts car and leaving it in the driveway until I'm finished.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 13, 2012, 08:53:55 PM
It's a lot of little jobs that are a pain in the ass.  Next time, I'm just buying a parts car and leaving it in the driveway until I'm finished.

The luxuries of owning your own home, redneck style.   :cheersmate:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 08:55:24 PM
You can always sell it for cash.  I was on a first-name basis with a guy in my last neighborhood.  "Hey, Francisco!  I need a car towed!"  He'd show up like clockwork.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 13, 2012, 09:01:01 PM
Depending on how much you pay for a parts car, most of the time you can easily make your money back, if you are patient and don't mind futzing around pulling odds and ends to sell. 

Then when you're done, Francisco can come tow the lump to the scrapper.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 09:02:37 PM
I can easily find >$500 cars on Craigslist.  It's not as easy as it used to be since King Barry's Used Car Emporium went crazy and started destroying their inventory in return for a gubmint check, but they're still out there.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 13, 2012, 09:06:59 PM
Oh yeah, tell me about it.  Perfectly good cars going to the scrap yards.  That still makes my blood boil thinking about it.  You still see a lot of Camrys running around though. Tough things, they are. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 13, 2012, 09:09:31 PM
Best car they ever made.  I'm partial to the SE model... tighter suspension and a little more nimble than the standard/luxury version.  Front wheel drive can be fun if you do it right.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 14, 2012, 12:43:21 PM
$50 for a new ignition switch from Moss.  They were out of the electrical switch so I had to order the entire thing. :(
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 14, 2012, 12:45:24 PM
Bambi can be hard on your car, but watch out for Obambi.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 16, 2012, 04:35:40 PM
So, my cheapest-on-ebay-but-still-an-exact-color-match-with-free-shipping fender arrived today.  You won't be able to tell a thing happened. 

I wish all ebay transactions were like this one. 

I've had to rearrange money allotted to buying the B a couple oil lines, and brake rebuild kits, though.  I might still try to sneak them past spousal unit. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 18, 2012, 04:19:06 PM
I purchased a replacement switch from Moss Motors and they sent me the wrong one. 

This is what I pulled out of the car.  You can see the points are gummed up and filthy.  I'm going to try cleaning it and putting it back together, but I forgot how to put that spring back in. :bawl:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_MGswitch.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=MGswitch.jpg)  (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_switch1.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=switch1.jpg)  (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_switch2.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view&current=switch2.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 18, 2012, 09:38:08 PM
This is disconcerting.  The ignition switch in the car matches the six-wire schematic for the previous year (1972).  1973 only had four wires and omitted the second brown wire and the blue or grey (slate) wire from '72.


edit: The electrical switch from the Triumph Spitfire/TR6/TR7 may be a direct replacement.  With the exception of the White/Green wire (Triumph is White/Pink), it looks nearly identical. 


edit:  I was right.  The TR6 and MGB use the same switch.  The later ones have the correct wiring harness.
Quote
Ignition/Starter/Auxiliary Switch - MGB/TR6 (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pcode=34680#wd)
Combined Ignition and Starter Switch with left position for Auxiliary circuits such as radio. With chrome bezel and Lucar connectors. Requires 19.6 mm diameter hole. Supplied with fixed Barrel & Key. Rated at 5 amps for Ignition, 16 amps for Starter and 15 amps for Auxiliary.This Ignition and Starter Switch was fitted to MGB and TR6. These are no longer available from Lucas, and so this is a quality reproduction


edit: Ordered a replacement switch.  It should be here tomorrow.

Still haven't replaced my rebound straps.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 22, 2012, 07:19:41 PM
The new switch arrived.  It looks like a previous owner added a second brown wire in the middle of the wiring harness to match up with the old switch.  I removed it and taped it off.

My new 50mm lens arrived, so I'm messing around with that at the same time.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/newswitch1.png)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/newswitch2.png)

The previous switch p/n (the one with six wires) is 39753.  I'm not sure what the blue wire is for, so I taped that off as well.  I found replacements here for half the price of what Moss charged me.

http://classicgarage.com/mgbmgtmiigsw.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 22, 2012, 08:19:48 PM
It works! :yahoo:

Now I just have to figure out what the purple light blue and pink and grey wires are for.  Tach is still dead but the radio works again.  Now I'll have to reset all my stations again and buy an MP3 player.


edit:  I should probably check the ground on the tachometer.  I overlooked it on the wiring diagram.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 22, 2012, 08:51:02 PM
What kind of weird Frankenstein car is this?  I have three loose wires with bullet connections on the ends under the dash... this is what I can find out about them based on color.

Light blue = dimmer/flash-to-pass switch
Pink = ballast resistor
Slate = anti run-on valve

This car is so confusing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 23, 2012, 08:32:19 PM
The marker and tail lights on the opposite corners (front left, rear right) are out and my horn doesn't work.  Other than that, everything seems okay so far.  If I only drove it during the day, I would be okay.  I'm glad I'm not the only one that's had this problem... someone suggested checking out fuse #4.

Still need to work on this Camry.  The clutch is still f'ed up. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 23, 2012, 11:15:23 PM
The marker and tail lights on the opposite corners (front left, rear right) are out and my horn doesn't work.  Other than that, everything seems okay so far.  If I only drove it during the day, I would be okay.  I'm glad I'm not the only one that's had this problem... someone suggested checking out fuse #4.

Still need to work on this Camry.  The clutch is still f'ed up. 

I'd definitely get in there and clean that fuse box up.  And then, hit all your grounds.  I'll bet your horn is a grounding issue (it was on my first B).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on August 24, 2012, 09:59:02 AM
Remind me to kill myself if I ever think about buying a British car.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 24, 2012, 01:03:50 PM
Remind me to kill myself if I ever think about buying a British car.
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 24, 2012, 01:04:52 PM
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?

You just know he is, dontcha?   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 24, 2012, 01:05:20 PM
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?
The suicide or the car? :lmao:

It's just a minor inconvenience, that's all.  Also, my radio no longer stores any of my stations when I turn the car off.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on August 24, 2012, 01:52:52 PM
The suicide or the car? :lmao:

It's just a minor inconvenience, that's all.  Also, my radio no longer stores any of my stations when I turn the car off.


 :thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on August 24, 2012, 01:54:26 PM
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?

If I'm going to torture myself, I'll go Italian. They got it down.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 24, 2012, 01:55:15 PM
"If you hate it now, wait until you drive it."
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on August 24, 2012, 02:07:52 PM
If I'm going to torture myself, I'll go Italian. They got it down.


Well....you do have a point there...
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on August 24, 2012, 02:14:55 PM

Well....you do have a point there...

Yup, owned one two. Still loved the damn things.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 24, 2012, 02:55:38 PM
"If you hate it now, wait until you drive it."
Davenport, where is the Griswold's sports wagon ?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 24, 2012, 09:02:58 PM
Chris,

I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.  

:tongue: :fuelfire: :whistling:



If there was only one thing I could change about this car, I'm torn choosing between these two things: 

a) changing the heater core somehow, so it isn't always pushing 900 degree air on your right foot the entire time (even with the blowr off), or

b) making a gas pedal that isn't the size of a postage stamp.  I'm told the earlier cars had an even smaller gas pedal.  My later B had one that was about the size of a baby cucumber, and it wasn't bad. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 24, 2012, 09:09:24 PM
I'd pick the heater.  My gas pedal works just fine. :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 24, 2012, 09:17:25 PM
Yeah, don't get me wrong, the gas pedal is functional, but geez, look at the size of it! 

I don't have the world's largest feet, but come on!   


I'm surprised my right foot doesn't just sigh, shrug its shoulders and detach itself from my body every time I drive the B, since it's broiled, and forced to work with inadequate equipment every drive. 

Good thing it is firmly attached, and not a member of a union. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on August 24, 2012, 11:13:23 PM
Chris,

I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.  

:tongue: :fuelfire: :whistling:



If there was only one thing I could change about this car, I'm torn choosing between these two things: 

a) changing the heater core somehow, so it isn't always pushing 900 degree air on your right foot the entire time (even with the blowr off), or
b) making a gas pedal that isn't the size of a postage stamp.  I'm told the earlier cars had an even smaller gas pedal.  My later B had one that was about the size of a baby cucumber, and it wasn't bad. 

Do you have room to put a petcock in the water line to the heater?  I put one on my Cobra replica as I had a similar problem.  I didn't even put a control cable on the valve as it's pretty easy to pop the hood & switch it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 24, 2012, 11:30:25 PM
Yeah, there is room for a petcock- I actually put one on my first B. 

I didn't really care for how it looked under the hood, but at this point I'm willing to sacrifice looks for a cooler foot.  I love to wear flip flops, and wearing flip flops in this thing is brutal. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 24, 2012, 11:38:51 PM
Chris,

I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.  

So,

It starts to drizzle, and I go out to put the B back into the garage in its designated spot.  I had left it out as I was going to drive it tomorrow.
I start it up, flick the headlights on, reverse, then forward, and as I am pulling it into its spot in the garage, I notice a blob of oil on the floor.  Nice.  I park the car, grab my trusty flashlight and head out into the driveway where I had been parked, to see if the blob was an anomaly found only on the garage floor.  

Another blob, this one still warm.  Nice.  

Back to the car, looking underneath, and I see I've got a nice shiny drop of Shell Rotella just about to drip itself off the FRONT side of the rear cover plate.  I check the clutch face through the access hole, dry.  All of the oil is on the front side of the rear cover plate.  

One innernets search later:

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1641621,page=1  

Ooraah!!  Want to come over and see how to pull a motor and trans?   :naughty:

 :hammer:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on August 24, 2012, 11:41:53 PM
As I recall, the standard for British cars is less than a quart over night is within limits.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2012, 10:47:09 AM
Yeah, there is room for a petcock- I actually put one on my first B. 

I didn't really care for how it looked under the hood, but at this point I'm willing to sacrifice looks for a cooler foot.  I love to wear flip flops, and wearing flip flops in this thing is brutal. 
Try wearing black leather shoes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2012, 10:48:27 AM
Chris,

I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.   

That sucks.  If I ever have to pull out the engine in this car, I'm replacing it with something else. :evil:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2012, 10:49:19 AM
I'm off to Hubcap Annie's to have one of my wheels checked out.  I think the rim is damaged because the tire on it won't hold air.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2012, 10:53:55 AM
That sucks.  If I ever have to pull out the engine in this car, I'm replacing it with something else. :evil:

It's not bad.  The only car that I can pull the motor on faster is my 240Z, as there is slightly more workaround room under the hood.

A good hour, and I'll have it out. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2012, 07:57:10 PM
I'm off to Hubcap Annie's to have one of my wheels checked out.  I think the rim is damaged because the tire on it won't hold air.

Damaged valve stem, fixed at no charge.  Awesome.

Really need to work on my Camry, but I picked up some silver touch-up paint and masking tape, and will try to work on my wheels at some point.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on August 27, 2012, 12:10:25 AM
That sucks.  If I ever have to pull out the engine in this car, I'm replacing it with something else. :evil:

I  bet a small block Ford would fit real nice.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on August 27, 2012, 12:55:54 AM
I  bet a small block Ford would fit real nice.
Think like a lib, if one is good, two is better, especially if it's free.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on August 27, 2012, 02:20:10 PM
Chris,

I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.  

So,

It starts to drizzle, and I go out to put the B back into the garage in its designated spot.  I had left it out as I was going to drive it tomorrow.
I start it up, flick the headlights on, reverse, then forward, and as I am pulling it into its spot in the garage, I notice a blob of oil on the floor.  Nice.  I park the car, grab my trusty flashlight and head out into the driveway where I had been parked, to see if the blob was an anomaly found only on the garage floor.  

Another blob, this one still warm.  Nice.  

Back to the car, looking underneath, and I see I've got a nice shiny drop of Shell Rotella just about to drip itself off the FRONT side of the rear cover plate.  I check the clutch face through the access hole, dry.  All of the oil is on the front side of the rear cover plate.  

One innernets search later:

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1641621,page=1  

Ooraah!!  Want to come over and see how to pull a motor and trans?   :naughty:

 :hammer:

Glutton for punishment....much?


 :rofl:





P.S. I could pull the trans in my Fiat in 15 min..........
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 27, 2012, 02:29:56 PM
I cleaned and prepped one of my wheels last night to get it ready for paint.  I bought a metallic silver instead of the "aluminium" color that was suggested (I couldn't find it).

This is what I'm trying for:
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/MGBUndercarriage2010029.jpg)


Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 27, 2012, 09:55:06 PM
Glutton for punishment....much?


 :rofl:


P.S. I could pull the trans in my Fiat in 15 min..........


Niice! 

You know, if I didn't have stuff like this to occupy my time, I'm sure my spousal unit would find something even less fun or interesting for me to do.       

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 07:12:12 PM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/maskedwheel.jpg)

This taping and masking stuff is a pain in the ass.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 01, 2012, 07:24:33 PM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/maskedwheel.jpg)

This taping and masking stuff is a pain in the ass.

But it is will be worth it.  Prep always pays.  What you using for silver?
 
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHedEshmf34[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 07:26:26 PM
I was looking for Krylon Aluminum but went with some DupliColor reflective silver metallic (BVW2039) since the Kyrlon wasn't available.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 08:20:21 PM
Wow, it looks pretty good.  Now to wait for it to dry.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 08:39:11 PM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/paintedwheel.jpg)

One wheel finished, three more to go.

I'll have to touch up with some black Testors in a couple of places I oversprayed.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on September 01, 2012, 08:45:21 PM
Very nice.  Wheel painting is a huge pain in the ass.  Don't envy you.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 08:54:43 PM
It only took about two hours, maybe a little longer.  At least I know what I'm doing now.  The next one should look better.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2012, 09:27:56 PM
That looks really good Chris!

Personally, I don't like the rostyles with the silver on them, but it's not my car.  :-)

I'm very impressed that you did this without the masking kit you can buy.  Yours look very good.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 09:56:47 PM
You don't like the rostyle wheels?  I like them better than the mini-lites.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2012, 10:33:31 PM
I like them if they're painted all black, and accented with a trim ring.  I think they're too busy any other way.  I'm not a fan of a busy wheel.

That being said, my favorite wheel on a B is a wire one. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 10:39:31 PM
That's what was on the car when I got it... all black wheels with an early chrome trim ring.  I like the plain rostyle as long as it's done right.  I may leave the trim ring off the wheels for a while and see how I like it. 

I never cared for the wire wheels.  Too much maintenance for a wheel that ends up looking like a cheap wheel cover.

I've been meaning to pull the fuel bowl and make sure it's not full of gunk.  It's still not running entirely right.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2012, 11:22:32 PM
That's what was on the car when I got it... all black wheels with an early chrome trim ring.  I like the plain rostyle as long as it's done right.  I may leave the trim ring off the wheels for a while and see how I like it.  

I never cared for the wire wheels.  Too much maintenance for a wheel that ends up looking like a cheap wheel cover.

I've been meaning to pull the fuel bowl and make sure it's not full of gunk.  It's still not running entirely right.

You have two fuel bowls, you know, right?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 11:36:15 PM
Yes. :ashamed:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2012, 11:49:59 PM
Leepu is a retard. 

[youtube=425,350]nUrRH3MpDvI[/youtube]

This show is so ghetto.  He makes the same car every time... big ass and wide hips.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 02, 2012, 04:08:33 AM
Leepu is a retard. 

[youtube=425,350]nUrRH3MpDvI[/youtube]

This show is so ghetto.  He makes the same car every time... big ass and wide hips.

needs bigger wheels.

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3713539/1346576187720.gif)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on September 02, 2012, 02:24:54 PM
^Oilers fans.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 03, 2012, 06:40:37 PM
 :rant: Sixteen pounds for the wheel mask from Moss Europe and that doesn't cover shipping.

Think I'll stick with my masking tape and razor blade.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 03, 2012, 08:11:55 PM
:rant: Sixteen pounds for the wheel mask from Moss Europe and that doesn't cover shipping.

Think I'll stick with my masking tape and razor blade.

I was wondering how long it would take you to look that up, and see the price.   :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 04, 2012, 09:37:59 AM
Today's airing of greivances :panic:

The plastic handle came off my window crank.  I have no clue how I'm going to put it back on since the end of the post is flared larger than the hole it's supposed to go in.

Both adjuster screws came off one of the carburettors.

My tachometer only wants to work when it's wet outside.  Maybe it's homesick.

 :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on September 04, 2012, 10:27:28 AM
Today's airing of greivances :panic:

The plastic handle came off my window crank.  I have no clue how I'm going to put it back on since the end of the post is flared larger than the hole it's supposed to go in.

Both adjuster screws came off one of the carburettors.

My tachometer only wants to work when it's wet outside.  Maybe it's homesick.

 :rotf:

Is it Festivus again ? Festivus, is for the rest of us.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 04, 2012, 04:54:02 PM
is your window crank shaped like this? 
(http://geros1968.com/images/k93.jpg)

I'd say your tach problem is a ground issue.  It's probably grounding only when the humidity is high. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 04, 2012, 06:51:21 PM
It's similar, but the handle is stainless steel.  The plastic knob at the top is what came off.  The guy at Auto Zone fixed it for me with a rusty screwdriver and a big hammer. :lmao:

Still on the lookout for the idle adjust screws.  I lost another one. :(
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 04, 2012, 07:27:22 PM
It's similar, but the handle is stainless steel.  The plastic knob at the top is what came off.  The guy at Auto Zone fixed it for me with a rusty screwdriver and a big hammer. :lmao:

Still on the lookout for the idle adjust screws.  I lost another one. :(


Are you talking about the screws that have that super fine thread pitch on them, with a spring underneath?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 04, 2012, 07:31:34 PM
Yes, but mine did not have the spring, just a locknut.

I found replacements (part 43 (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28997&SortOrder=47)), but I wasn't able to find anything that matched at the hardware or auto parts store.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 04, 2012, 07:51:00 PM
Wow, I did not realize those were that pricey.  I'd put a dab of Loctite on those when you get the new ones. 

I would be surprised if you found a match at the local hardware store. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 05, 2012, 12:23:43 PM
Dammit.  My car crapped out on me.

I was driving down the highway doing about 65 when my car lost power and sputtered to a stop.  I had to take the cap off the distributor and re-seat it before the car would run again.  Looks like I should probably order a spare just in case.  Seems to be running okay now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on September 05, 2012, 01:18:10 PM
Dammit.  My car crapped out on me.

I was driving down the highway doing about 65 when my car lost power and sputtered to a stop.  I had to take the cap off the distributor and re-seat it before the car would run again.  Looks like I should probably order a spare just in case.  Seems to be running okay now.

A spare distributor cap, or a spare car?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 05, 2012, 01:19:24 PM
A spare distributor cap, or a spare car?
:whistling:

I had to order a new clutch tube for my Camry.  It had to be special-ordered, so I'm driving the MG whenever I can.

edit: spent $45 at Moss for a new distributor cap and rotor and new screws for both carburetors.  I'm considering upgrading my brake lights to LED since they're on the small side and not very visible.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 05, 2012, 01:31:03 PM
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4152/4984971181_b0c8a07969_z.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 05, 2012, 01:35:21 PM
:bawl:

That was mean.:rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on September 05, 2012, 01:36:34 PM
:whistling:

I had to order a new clutch tube for my Camry.  It had to be special-ordered, so I'm driving the MG whenever I can.

One spare might not be enough.  BF has 6 vehicles.  Currently, he is driving his dad's car.   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 05, 2012, 01:45:09 PM
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars. 

I really want a third car.  I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on September 05, 2012, 02:04:20 PM
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4152/4984971181_b0c8a07969_z.jpg)

I just love it when a great plan comes together!

 :rotf: :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 05, 2012, 04:32:45 PM
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars. 

I really want a third car.  I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.

Think Thing.  Dude, think Thing.   Sand Camo with golf cart battery power.  It would rock.   


BTW.   My '72 B was Teal Blue with wires (but had the chrome bumper).  :fuelfire:

Just today I saw a Fiat sitting at the Chrysler garage.   Sad.  The old dealer from the sixties I use to do business was porn shop last time I was by which I found fitting.  I could pull and install a rebuilt 1200 cc Fiat engine in a weekend.  I got lots of practice what with the crappy design of head and block. I also got plenty of practice with bondo and fiberglass.  My dad use to say Fiat used left over WWII 55 gallon drums for the sheet metal.   :-)  Fix it again Tony, fix it again. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 05, 2012, 04:35:43 PM
I need to cruise by Burgess Used Cars and see what he has.  There was a Duster or a Dart or something at another car lot down the street.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on September 06, 2012, 12:20:43 AM
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars. 

I really want a third car.  I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.
Stick it to the man, Ralph Nader, get a corvair !
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 06, 2012, 10:38:18 AM
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars. 

I really want a third car.  I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.


You are certifiably.......................something.


 :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 06, 2012, 10:40:56 AM

You are certifiably.......................something.


 :-)
Lacking in garage space?

I think I can squeeze one more in there, but I think my neighbors would burn my house down.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on September 06, 2012, 12:39:51 PM
Lacking in garage space?

I think I can squeeze one more in there, but I think my neighbors would burn my house down.

Go with the VW.   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 06, 2012, 01:01:44 PM
$45 for an assortment of screws, springs, and a distributor kit (cap, rotor, condenser).  It should arrive tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 06, 2012, 04:10:29 PM
$45 for an assortment of screws, springs, and a distributor kit (cap, rotor, condenser).  It should arrive tomorrow.

None of that will help much if the shaft bushing is worn.  Did you check to see if it was out of round?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 06, 2012, 04:10:46 PM
Not yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 06, 2012, 04:18:09 PM
If you have to have yours rebuilt, I'd use Advanced Distributors.  I've got two distributors from them (one as a backup), including a custom build for my supercharged B.  

I think my brother has had two or three done by them as well.  Top notch, and very friendly service.  
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 06, 2012, 04:18:45 PM
$45 for an assortment of screws, springs, and a distributor kit (cap, rotor, condenser).  It should arrive tomorrow.

I never knew a VW was so cheap.

 :fuelfire:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 06, 2012, 04:22:45 PM
Quote
Just today I saw a Fiat sitting at the Chrysler garage.   Sad.



What model?






says a glutton for punishment......   :panic:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 06, 2012, 04:31:15 PM
Not yet.

If your Camry isn't up, and you still need to borrow a distributor to keep you going, just cover shipping, and I can send you my spare 25D.   

Here is my spare from Advanced Distributors.  Check out this hot Lucas distributor porn, all sparkly and covered in grease :naughty: :naughty:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0585.jpg)

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 06, 2012, 04:39:47 PM


What model?






says a glutton for punishment......   :panic:
X1/9 :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 06, 2012, 06:16:48 PM


What model?






says a glutton for punishment......   :panic:

The new little one that looks pretty much like the old little one  ~  500 I think it was.  I was just surprised the local Chrysler dealer had one out front.  I use to do a lot of business with them until they totaled my wife's PT Cruiser. 

http://www.fiatusa.com/en/2012/500/

Holy cow I just saw the prices.   Casket Royale would be a cheaper choice of a box to be buried in. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 06, 2012, 06:57:10 PM
The new little one that looks pretty much like the old little one  ~  500 I think it was.  I was just surprised the local Chrysler dealer had one out front.  I use to do a lot of business with them until they totaled my wife's PT Cruiser. 

http://www.fiatusa.com/en/2012/500/

Holy cow I just saw the prices.   Casket Royale would be a cheaper choice of a box to be buried in. :rotf:

Hey, I like those! 

I'd like to pick up an Abarth version in a couple of years.  They've already sold out this year.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 07, 2012, 09:36:30 AM
(http://mukkiboude.files.wordpress.com/2007/10/old-fiat-500.jpg)

Ya it does look like an old one. Funny, it's got a 1400 cc engine, not a 500 cc.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 07, 2012, 09:47:32 AM
Luigi!
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/Disney-Cars-Luigi.jpg)

That's because it weighs three times as much.  I did find some used ones (the new model) for $12-13k (with 20,000 miles on the clock).  Check out AutoTrader.com.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 07, 2012, 10:00:57 AM
Quote
How to change the oil in your Fiat 500

VW Vortex forums (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5688671-DIY-Fiat-500-Oil-Change)
Someone on another forum said it took him two hours. :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 07, 2012, 04:48:02 PM
Someone on another forum said it took him two hours. :lmao:

Whoa. Them some fugly shoes on that filly.  Some make-up and a stylist sure would help too but i guess a plain brown bag would be cheaper.  I remember working on my old Fiat.  May still have a picture somewhere.  The styling was by Pininfarina, the engineering by the Marquee De Sade.  I see they still use him. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on September 07, 2012, 07:27:50 PM
Someone on another forum said it took him two hours. :lmao:

I thought it was bad having to take a wheel off and remove a fender well cover to reach the oil filter on my Saturn.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 08, 2012, 06:15:29 PM
I found this for you today, Chris.  It's even in your colors :naughty: 

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0590-1.jpg)

I had stopped to look at the Vanagon behind the Thing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 08, 2012, 06:20:21 PM
Nifty.

I had to fix my window crank handle again.  I stopped at Lowe's and replaced the rivet with an 8/32 x 3/4-inch bolt with washers and a nut to hold everything together.  That thing isn't going anywhere now but now it rubs against my door panel.

I heard you can add a spacer from an Austin-Healey to push the window handle out further so it doesn't rub.  I'll have to look it up again.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 08, 2012, 06:38:20 PM
Look at what I picked up today.  Vintage. :naughty:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/mac1.jpg)

Fixxorated window knob

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0026.jpg)

This is what my wiring harness looks like :panic:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0030.jpg)

Current picture with finished wheel (I only got one done so far :rofl:)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0025.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 08, 2012, 10:06:46 PM
Can you dremel the head of that screw down?

I wouldn't worry about how your harness looks.  The important thing is that it is not on fire, and stays not on fire.  

I'm sort of curious as to what the two bullet connectors are that aren't connected to anything.  The closest I can match them up to mine is the purple/pink wire runs into another purple/pink, while the blue wire runs into a gray wire.  
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 08, 2012, 10:09:42 PM
I looked it up earlier... one of them goes to an anti-run-on valve and the other goes to a ballast resistor, neither of which were used on a '72 or '73 model.  Weird.

You can buy bolts with smooth heads, like a carriage bolt.  I'm going to try to find one tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 08, 2012, 10:21:33 PM
I looked it up earlier... one of them goes to an anti-run-on valve and the other goes to a ballast resistor, neither of which were used on a '72 or '73 model.  Weird.

Well, that doesn't really surprise me.  They wired all the cars for overdrive, too.  The o/d was toggled on or off on our cars by pushing in on the end of the wiper stalk.  I guess if you ever wanted to install an oil slick device like James Bond, you could use that as the toggle button. 

Did you get the instruction manual with the tach/dwell/volts/ohms/amps/toaster/copier/can opener tester?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 08, 2012, 10:26:05 PM
Yes.  It even has the original warranty registration card.

I looked for a new dwell/idle/tach meter... the cheapest one was fifty dollars.  I bought mine for twenty bucks.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 09, 2012, 04:03:16 PM
Good news, my distributor shaft bushing is in good shape.  Bad news, I bought the wrong cap and rotor. :argh:

Current rotor is on the right.  "New" cap and rotor are on the left.  Big difference... neither of the new parts fit on the old distributor.  I took the old cap/rotor off and cleaned them, routed the condenser and spark plug wires away from the coil and radiator hoses, and everything seems to be running just fine now.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/distributor2.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/distributor1.jpg)
Slightly crispy.


Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 09, 2012, 04:06:17 PM
:ha:
Good news, my distributor shaft bushing is in good shape.  Bad news, I bought the wrong cap and rotor. :argh:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 09, 2012, 04:08:06 PM
Actually, I tried to do the same thing the first time I tried to order a cap and dizzy for my distributor. 

I bought them from the Bhive, and Gordon called me to let me know he was changing my order to the correct parts for my car. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 09, 2012, 04:09:13 PM
I ordered mine from Moss.  I asked him three times if that was the right part.  The guy tried to sell me on an electronic ignition kit.

Gonna try out my new dwell meter next.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 09, 2012, 06:19:33 PM
Fuh. :mad:

The fuel mixture screw on my rear carb is either stuck or the head is stripped.  I can't get it to move and it's running lean. I was idling @ 1200 RPM and turned both carbs down to 900 after connecting the tachometer to it.  Took it for a drive and it did everything except idle correctly.   If I match the airflow and idle on both carburetors, the rear one cuts out and causes the engine to die, so I turned the rear one up to about 1000 RPM and left the front at 850.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 09, 2012, 06:46:05 PM
I'm trying to remember if both carbs are used for idling on the HIF models, or if it's only the front one.  It's been about two years since I fiddled with one with duals. 

Or, maybe it's the flattop Hitachis on some of the Datsuns I'm thinking of that were set that way.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 09, 2012, 06:48:07 PM
I have the Pertronix setup on my B.  I like it, and it really helped nail down the timing to avoid detonation problems with the supercharger.  I certainly wouldn't say it's necessary on a normally aspirated car, though.  I only added it to mine after the supercharger.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 09, 2012, 06:48:59 PM
I'm pretty sure each carb "contributes" to idle.  I can cover the intake on either of them and the engine stops running (the Unisyn does this somewhat... you can only hold it in place for a short period until it causes the engine to sputter or to quit completely in my case).  Each carb has an idle screw and an air/fuel mixture screw.  When I lift the air piston on the rear carb, the engine stumbles and dies.  I'm seriously giving thought to pulling the rear carb and replacing that screw.  I may leave it as is until October if I can get away with it -- I really don't feel like opening that can of worms right now.

I should probably check my fuel filter as well.  The one on that BMW was in awful condition.

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nvGLgO6pj0[/youtube]

Look how shiny those carbs are.  Mine look like they've been to Somalia.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 10, 2012, 12:46:01 AM
Crap.  My light switch on the steering column is starting to get flaky.  Every time I hit the turn signal, the headlights would switch off until I pulled the stalk back into place.

In other news, it's about 65° outside right now and the heater feels lovely with the top down.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on September 10, 2012, 10:20:42 AM
Crap.  My light switch on the steering column is starting to get flaky.  Every time I hit the turn signal, the headlights would switch off until I pulled the stalk back into place.

In other news, it's about 65° outside right now and the heater feels lovely with the top down.
You're going topless, again ?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 10, 2012, 10:59:05 PM
$70 for a new headlight/turn signal switch.  Yikes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 11, 2012, 02:28:29 PM
(http://emowristcut.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/cropped-wrongrazor.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 11, 2012, 02:31:43 PM
I'm saving that for a DU thread. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 12, 2012, 09:18:09 AM
I got my tachometer to work for a short while yesterday.  I took one of the electrical connections off and tried to clean it with the gauge still in the car.  It worked for about 30 seconds before getting stuck again.  I'm going to take the entire gauge out this weekend and clean it.

The guy I bought the dwell meter from was working on a three-cylinder engine for his Geo Metro coupe.  I told him to put a turbocharger on it. :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 12, 2012, 04:47:14 PM

The guy I bought the dwell meter from was working on a three-cylinder engine for his Geo Metro coupe.  I told him to put a turbocharger on it. :lmao:

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJJSrdVct-4[/youtube]

 :naughty: :naughty:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 17, 2012, 12:28:07 PM
Just curious, did anyone swap the stock flywheel for a lighter one?  I'm looking at ways to make this car a little more comfortable on the interstate.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 17, 2012, 01:05:20 PM
Just curious, did anyone swap the stock flywheel for a lighter one?  I'm looking at ways to make this car a little more comfortable on the interstate.

You would have liked the Mercedes 320SL Roadster better for that.  It had a great six way heated leather seat that would make any contortionist jealous.  That said, the B is a British Sports Car.  Comfort is not an option, Sport.  I actually use to enjoy working on my B (except the time I had to change a U joint in the yard in sub zero temperature ) but that is another story.  I always figured two hours was the max I could drive it before I had to get out and stretch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 17, 2012, 01:10:27 PM
I'm okay for a couple of hours.  I've never been behind the wheel of this car longer than that. 

I wouldn't mind a nice late-model Lincoln Town Car or maybe a 2-door Crown Vic from the 80's.  I wonder if the newer TC's seats will fit in an old Crown Vic.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 17, 2012, 05:30:14 PM
Just curious, did anyone swap the stock flywheel for a lighter one?  I'm looking at ways to make this car a little more comfortable on the interstate.

I run a 9lb. Fidanza flywheel on mine right now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 18, 2012, 11:10:57 AM
Okay?  How is it compared to stock?

I'm looking at spare fuel pumps and the ones I see all have 5/16 fittings on them and I think my car still has the banjo bolts.  Am I stuck paying $150 for an SU?


edit: I went with the plastic-bodied ECCO as an emergency spare.  Victoria British has it for $30 less than Moss. ----> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=109230&SortOrder=1
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 18, 2012, 04:32:00 PM
Okay?  How is it compared to stock?

Haha!  I knew I forgot to add something to that message. :rofl:

-Much better hole shot- not that your car suffers much from that much anyways, since first gear is so short.

-Zippier revving in neutral (almost sounds like a motorcycle).

-I have noticed no discernible difference in coasting abilities on the highway (less flywheel inertia), or any added difficulty in slipping the clutch when accelerating from a dead stop, or when shifting gears.

All that being said, the best bang for the buck I got out of the car was having the distributor rebuilt, and in particular, having the vacuum advance springs recurved.  It made the engine really come to life, and feel new.       

Quote
I'm looking at spare fuel pumps and the ones I see all have 5/16 fittings on them and I think my car still has the banjo bolts.  Am I stuck paying $150 for an SU?

edit: I went with the plastic-bodied ECCO as an emergency spare.  Victoria British has it for $30 less than Moss. ----> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=109230&SortOrder=1

If you want to hack off the banjo fittings, you can run whatever sort of low pressure (3-5 PSI) fuel pump you want under there.  Mine had a dodgy pump (someone had cut the lines on my car and put in a solid state pump before I bought the car), and I replaced it with a Mr. Gasket pump from O'reillys.  It's been under there for five years, no problems. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 18, 2012, 05:11:55 PM
(http://images.cheezburger.com/completestore/2010/9/28/b80b1b56-2e9d-4a2f-954e-037db32fb874.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 18, 2012, 05:19:10 PM
That's an Oldsmobile.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 18, 2012, 08:10:16 PM
My turn signals stopped working. :whistling:

I replaced the flaky turn signal switch and they still don't work (they stopped working this afternoon before I replaced the stalk switch).   Everything else works fine... I'm pretty sure I have another relay around here I can swap the flasher relay with.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on September 19, 2012, 04:07:39 PM
That's an Oldsmobile.
An insignificant detail.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 19, 2012, 05:59:39 PM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0005_zps6c7ee111.jpg)

Encrustulated flasher relay... four bucks for a replacement at O'Reillys.  I had to remove the glove box to get to it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 19, 2012, 06:28:06 PM
Nice!
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 19, 2012, 06:33:53 PM
edit:  I swear it was dry when I took it out.  Some water dripped on me at the auto parts store.  I think condensation is building up underneath the dashboard... I have to wipe my car down before getting inside.

The original one is still sitting on the firewall on the passenger side but there's nothing connected to it.  I figured one of the other owners didn't want to spend money on genuine LucasTM parts and did what everyone else has done... buy one off the shelf and stick it behind the glove compartment. 

I was right.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 21, 2012, 09:36:06 AM
Damn, I thought my Fiat was bad.   :thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 04:54:53 PM
One of the previous owners put a cheap, shitty plastic dash cap over the dashboard instead of taking the time to repair the crack that formed in the middle of the dash.  The plastic cap has warped and come loose and now makes an ungodly racket while driving around.  Now instead of just repairing the crack, I have to deal with all the damn glue that was used.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/dashboard2_zps597f0fc4.jpg)
Glue

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/dashboard3_zpsb6f9cb3c.jpg)
Crack

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/dashboard6_zps5eeef22b.jpg)
I ended up widening the crack to clean out all the shit that had gotten wedged in there over the years.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/dashboard4_zps8f8fa5df.jpg)
I will fill this with some minimally-expanding foam, seal it with epoxy, and paint over it.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/dashboard5_zpse540496a.jpg)
My Datsun had the same problem and I was already planning to do the same repair to that car, so I should already have all the material I need.  I've used that spray-on vinyl "paint" before and it looks pretty good.  I'll probably have to mask off and repaint the entire dash instead of trying to blend it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 06:12:01 PM
I found a repair invoice from last year under the front seat.

Quote from: Klassic Autos, Madison AL
1.  Engine won't crank/sort electrical

All previous electrical hacks associated with the fuse block were removed and the original problems found and fixed.  The radio was removed and rewired.  The starter circuit was diagnosed and repaired (broken connection under dash).  Attempt was made to repair the tachometer, however the tach itself is faulty and should be replaced with a working unit first.

2.  Engine runs badly

While the engine was cold, the valves were adjusted to spec of .015 and the valve cover refitted with a new gasket.  The burned spark plugs were replaced and gapped per spec.  The cap, rotor, and wires were inspected and serviceable.  The timing was noted to be 4 BTDC at idle, about 10 degrees retarded.  The timing could not be adjusted because the Mallory dual point distributor is seized and will not move.  The HIF4 carbs were adjusted to factory spec and then fine tuned.  The brakes were bled and adjusted.

3.  Can't get into gear w/ engine running

The clutch hydraulic system is worn and leaking the entire system was renewed with new master and slave cylinders and flex hose.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2012, 07:18:38 PM
Whoa, wait, do you have the original distributor, or an aftermarket unit?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 07:20:34 PM
How can I tell?  There's no markings or tags on the distributor that I can see.

Edit:  it looks like I have a Mallory D23.  This is exactly what mine looks like.

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/shop/-part_Distributor-make_MG.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2012, 07:28:36 PM
If you had your original distributor, there would be Lucas and a model and several other markings stamped into the housing. 

Do you have a vacuum advance on that Mallory?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 07:32:18 PM
No, nothing.

edit: I see that distributor is set up for mechanical advance.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2012, 09:20:52 PM
All points distributors I've dealt with have some sort of centrifugal advance weights under the points plate. 

The ones without vacuum advance feel very sluggish on the road though, when you're not flooring the car everywhere.  That might be why your car feels like it needs more 'oomph'- you're only running on mechanical advance.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 09:24:44 PM
Ah, okay.  I've learned to live with it.  Maybe when I win the lottery, I'll put a new distributor on the car.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 09:36:22 PM
As long as you're here, I have a question.  I've been poking around trying to find an answer and haven't come close. 

When I run my car over 3,500 RPM (this is a guess based on engine sound since I don't have a working tach), I have a very slight odor of burning oil.  Now I DID overfill the sump a little after the last oil change and I'm wondering if that's the problem.  So far, I have noticed very little or almost no oil consumption over the last 1,000 miles... the dipstick still reads slightly above full and the color is not too dark or burned.

I've been driving around town in third gear (40 MPH) at a moderate engine speed.  If I speed up to about 50 in third, then I notice the smell after a short while.  I reserve fourth gear for anything above 55 MPH since I tend to speed in fourth gear.  The car feels comfortable in third gear and runs fine other than the smell.

I still think my oil separator may be clogged.  I reconnected it and adjusted the carburetors to run with it attached.  Aside from the rear carb running lean, the car runs just fine.  Also, I used 10w-30 Rotella for my oil change while I think the Bentley manual calls for 20w-50.

The plugs were clean and normal-looking when I replaced them the other week.  The oil smell has been continuous the entire time I've owned it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2012, 09:54:51 PM
Did you notice the smell before you overfilled the sump, or only afterwards?

Are you sure the smell isn't manifesting out of the tailpipe?

Did you check to see if the tappet covers are sprinkling a little oil on your exhaust manifold?

From what you say, and if it isn't coming out your exhaust, it almost sounds more like the increased air turbulence under the hood at a greater rate of speed might be blowing oil onto something hot. 

Are there any 'damp' spots on your case anywhere from oil weeping? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 10:01:36 PM
No oil weeping that I can find.  The underside of the drivetrain is pretty dirty though.  I wonder if I don't have a leak somewhere else.  According to the invoice, the valve cover gasket was changed last year.  Yes, I'm relatively sure the smell was there before I changed my oil.  It definitely smells like it's coming from the front of the car.

I can drain a little oil tomorrow and see if the smell goes away.  I'll call that shop down in Alabama and ask them if they have any other service history on this car.    That bill was for $1,500.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 10:05:08 PM
$300 for a new tach. :o

I may have to wait until Christmas.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2012, 10:44:13 PM

I can drain a little oil tomorrow and see if the smell goes away.  I'll call that shop down in Alabama and ask them if they have any other service history on this car.    That bill was for $1,500.


I'm in the wrong business. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2012, 11:03:47 PM
I was out of some ingredients for my dinner, so I ran to the store.  I didn't get the oil smell from starting a cold engine but I did get it immediately from starting it while hot on the trip back.  It's not showing up on the spark plugs so I'm going to pretend there is not an issue with the oil scraper ring(s).  I haven't done a compression test on this engine yet but everything feels tight.  It could still be that damn oil separator.  The PCV valve in my first Datsun was gummed up like crazy when I brought it home... I didn't pass a smog test until I changed it.

I came across a post on the MG board that recommended changing the spark plug wires and ditching the platinum plugs (I ended up buying them because it was the only thing available).  I'll give it a shot tomorrow.  I never did change the wires but I will have to check that invoice to see if they haven't been changed recently.

Yes, my plugs are gapped correctly.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 23, 2012, 08:00:10 PM
Found another invoice today.  It was a repair for some bodged wiring on the fan switch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 24, 2012, 04:28:02 PM
Mr. zeit sent me a couple of MG books.  There is a chapter in one of them titled "Engine Noises".  The entries are Squealing, Grinding, Screaming, Tinkling, Tapping, Ticking, Rattling, Popping, Rumbling, Whistling, Sizzling, and Jingling. :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 24, 2012, 04:58:05 PM
Mr. zeit sent me a couple of MG books.  There is a chapter in one of them titled "Engine Noises".  The entries are Squealing, Grinding, Screaming, Tinkling, Tapping, Ticking, Rattling, Popping, Rumbling, Whistling, Sizzling, and Jingling. :rofl:

They do strive for accuracy now don't they. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 24, 2012, 07:22:26 PM
I read that entire book (the one with the pictures).  My car doesn't do any of that stuff, so I guess I'm good to go.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 24, 2012, 07:32:53 PM
Does that book read anything like John Muir's Volkswagen book? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 24, 2012, 07:35:45 PM
A little.  It describes why certain systems break down and how they're supposed to function when they're working properly.  It's more general than the Bentley manual but much better than a Haynes.  It's pretty good for a somewhat-detailed introduction to the MGB... I kind of wish I'd had something like this three or four months ago.

I haven't had a chance to look through the Chilton's book yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 24, 2012, 08:21:20 PM
You coulda been rich, zeit.  Check out these prices (http://www.amazon.com/Problems-Auto-Doc-Williams-published-Paperback/dp/B008KUDXY2). :rofl:

I swear some of these people on Amazon are either mathematically impaired or completely clueless.  Do they check for spam?

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 24, 2012, 08:48:18 PM
You coulda been rich, zeit.  Check out these prices (http://www.amazon.com/Problems-Auto-Doc-Williams-published-Paperback/dp/B008KUDXY2). :rofl:

I swear some of these people on Amazon are either mathematically impaired or completely clueless.  Do they check for spam?



Rather like the old jest  "Around here you can name your own salary, I call mine Fred".

I guess they can ask whatever they want but who in their right mind would pay that?  Yikes.

 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 24, 2012, 09:05:27 PM
That's how I felt trying to track down a replacement ignition switch the other month.  "Genuine Lucas parts!" only $140!  Get it while it lasts!

Damn cutthroats.  I ended up finding a replacement for less than $40 with shipping.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on September 25, 2012, 10:05:30 AM
$300 for a new tach. :o

I may have to wait until Christmas.


There is no Santa Claus.   :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2012, 04:34:03 PM
That's how I felt trying to track down a replacement ignition switch the other month.  "Genuine Lucas parts!" only $140!  Get it while it lasts!

Damn cutthroats.  I ended up finding a replacement for less than $40 with shipping.

I got a free upgraded Lucas alternator* with my B once.   



*(with purchase of Moss supercharger kit)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2012, 04:43:32 PM

There is no Santa Claus.   :tongue:

Hey now, there might be!  Santa Battle will have to dig through his bag of stuff and see if he has one that is the right model, and works. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2012, 08:58:53 PM
I'll mail you some Christmas cash for one. 

I wiped my seats down with some Armor All.  Man, what an improvement.  They look new.  It also cleaned up my door panels pretty well.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2012, 09:08:32 PM
You might want to be careful with that Armor-all stuff.  I know it can actually dry out vinyl and any stitch-work on your seats. 

I've always used just straight mineral oil (or baby oil) on all my vinyl pieces with never any problems. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 26, 2012, 12:51:53 PM
You might want to be careful with that Armor-all stuff.  I know it can actually dry out vinyl and any stitch-work on your seats. 

I've always used just straight mineral oil (or baby oil) on all my vinyl pieces with never any problems. 


I stopped using it years ago.  I now use Lexol for softening and cleaning if real bad and Mother's Leather Conditioner for finishing.  (It contains neatsfoot oil and lanolin).

I agree you might want to be careful with Armor-all.  Werd is that it can cause cracking in dash caps that see a lot of sun. 

Mineral oil or baby oil works as long as you work it in well & Baby Oil leaves a chick friendly smell. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 26, 2012, 05:14:46 PM

Mineral oil or baby oil works as long as you work it in well & Baby Oil leaves a chick friendly smell. :rotf:


Chris, I think zeit and I and trying to help you out here.  :naughty: 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 27, 2012, 10:44:03 PM
"Hey, is that a Mustang?" ::)

I have 90 pounds of golf balls in the front seat, mostly because they wouldn't all fit in the trunk.  This should be interesting.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 29, 2012, 12:00:57 AM
The car made it to Arkansas with no problem.  I was wondering why that damn car was such a sweatbox... I've been driving around with the heat on. :thatsright:

Do you happen to know how much the MIN to MAX gauge is on the dipstick?  It's usually one quart.  That way I'll be able to tell how much oil it burned over the last six hours.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 29, 2012, 12:36:24 AM
The car made it to Arkansas with no problem.  I was wondering why that damn car was such a sweatbox... I've been driving around with the heat on. :thatsright:

Do you happen to know how much the MIN to MAX gauge is on the dipstick?  It's usually one quart.  That way I'll be able to tell how much oil it burned over the last six hours.

It's not quite a quart, maybe like 70-80% of a quart.  I know if I take it down to the low mark on mine and put a full quart in, I'm a little above the maximum. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 29, 2012, 12:38:07 AM
I was down to the MIN mark when I parked my car two hours ago.  I put in half a quart.

I think I may have found the source of the burning oil smell.  I think the valve cover gasket may be leaking.  It was wet around one corner and had dripped down the side of the block.  Not a lot... just enough to make an odor.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 29, 2012, 06:28:42 PM
I managed to burn 1 quart of oil over 700 miles.  Not bad considering most of it was at 70mph.

Top speed through Arkansas was 95.  :II:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 30, 2012, 06:29:30 PM
I did an oil change earlier today and added a bottle of NDDP.  Holy cow, that stuff was like syrup.  The only 20w50 I could find was Valvoline... the only Rotell available was some odd grade like 15w40. 

Bougt a new toolbox for my birthday.  Yay, me.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BEG on September 30, 2012, 06:47:38 PM
I did an oil change earlier today and added a bottle of NDDP.  Holy cow, that stuff was like syrup.  The only 20w50 I could find was Valvoline... the only Rotell available was some odd grade like 15w40. 

Bougt a new toolbox for my birthday.  Yay, me.

Everything you said sounded like Charlie Brown's teacher to me...wah wah wahhhhhhh. Except for "tool box".
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on October 01, 2012, 10:07:31 AM
I managed to burn 1 quart of oil over 700 miles.  Not bad considering most of it was at 70mph.

Top speed through Arkansas was 95.  :II:



 :o


Oh, I forgot, it's an English car.  Never mind.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 06, 2012, 11:40:37 PM
So... two things I've noticed.  1: Compared to my GPS, my speedometer is faster by as much as 5 MPH.  2: Something changed and my car has gotten louder.  I need to get rid of those platinum plugs and see if that changes, or maybe I have a small hole in my exhaust somewhere.  I thought my muffler had fallen off at some point, it's that loud. :rotf:

After switching oil grades, I'm not burning nearly as much.  I'll have to check it in the morning.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on October 07, 2012, 08:20:29 AM
So... two things I've noticed.  1: Compared to my GPS, my speedometer is faster by as much as 5 MPH.  2: Something changed and my car has gotten louder.  I need to get rid of those platinum plugs and see if that changes, or maybe I have a small hole in my exhaust somewhere.  I thought my muffler had fallen off at some point, it's that loud. :rotf:

After switching oil grades, I'm not burning nearly as much.  I'll have to check it in the morning.

Depending on your $$ situation I would say look into a good set of headers and an Abarth exhaust system.  I use to use Champion Platinum tipped plugs.  Meh, easy to change and gap.   

Oil?  I use to use Wolf's Head (the line we carried at the auto parts) and changed it by grade with the season per the book. 

Half the fun maintenance. If you don't love it buy a Pepe car. :rotf:

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 07, 2012, 09:37:21 PM
I've put two Peco exhaust systems on my own MGs, and helped put a third on another MG.  I'm not sure how the Abarth exhaust stacks up, or if you can even get an entire system, but I can attest to the quality of the Peco.  (Note, I run the Peco header, too). 

Make sure whatever oil you are running is suitable for an engine without roller tappets, else you'll end up wiping your tappets or your cam, or both.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 08, 2012, 07:40:11 PM
Make sure whatever oil you are running is suitable for an engine without roller tappets, else you'll end up wiping your tappets or your cam, or both.
Isn't that the purpose of the zinc additive?  I used 15w40 Rotella with my last oil change but it seemed too thin and my oil pressure dropped as then engine got hotter.  I picked up a jug of regular Valvoline 20w50 and a quart of NDDP to do an oil change last week.  Now my oil pressure is fine but my engine seems a little sluggish and takes more effort to rev than it did previously.  It's also louder, but I haven't checked to see if anything is loose or missing yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 08, 2012, 07:41:37 PM
Isn't that the purpose of the zinc additive?  I used 15w40 Rotella with my last oil change but it seemed too thin and my oil pressure dropped as then engine got hotter.  I picked up a jug of regular Valvoline 20w50 and a quart of NDDP.  My oil pressure is fine but my engine seems a little sluggish and takes more effort to rev than it did previously. 

Yeah, that's the purpose of the zinc additive.  Any oil you use will be fine with the zinc additive. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 08, 2012, 07:47:50 PM
I noticed some oil leaks last week that I didn't previously.  Good thing it was my sister's driveway and not mine. :evil:

I'm going to have to crawl under there and clean off the underside.  The drivetrain is filthy (the floorpan looks clean, though).  I have to have oil coming from somewhere. 

I have that stone patio finish on my driveway.  Unless it's obvious, it's sometimes hard to catch small leaks.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 09, 2012, 08:22:13 PM
Where do you buy your windshield wipers from?  The ones that came with the car were worn down to nubs and I've bought a dozen plastic ones from the auto parts store that all end up breaking where the wiper connects to the arm.

I ended up buying new metal-bodied blades from Victoria British because I can't get rubber refills here without buying the entire blade that doesn't work.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 09, 2012, 09:21:12 PM
I have been using Anco 3110 wipers.  They have a metal body, with a plastic connector that installs on B's wiper arm. 

That is what was on the car when I bought it (the blades had just went bad), and they appear to be hold up well.  I have never had one slip off, break, etc., even in icy weather.   

On my other B, I just bought two 20" wiper blades (I don't remember the brand), and cut them down to 10". 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 09, 2012, 09:25:46 PM
The plastic connector is where mine have been breaking.  I went with 10- or 11-inch blades, but the VB catalog specifies between plastic and (I assume) metal connectors.

You used to get adapters for the slide-on or J-hook connectors years ago but the parts stores don't seem to have them anymore.  Everywhere I went in Wylie was a new store in some strip mall hell that didn't have anything more than five years old.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 09, 2012, 09:35:03 PM
The plastic connector is where mine have been breaking.  I went with 10- or 11-inch blades, but the VB catalog specifies between plastic and (I assume) metal connectors.

You used to get adapters for the slide-one or J-hook connectors years ago but the parts stores don't seem to have them anymore.  Everywhere I went in Wylie was a new store in some strip mall hell that didn't have anything more than five years old.

This right here is what I used:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ANC-31-10/?rtype=10

If you squint, you can see the connector piece that attaches to the wiper arm.  O'Reillys and Autozone here both carry that item, as it is the rear wiper replacement for a lot of vehicles.

Once you find some connectors that work, along with some arms, you can just get the cheapest blades that fit, and cut them down to size.  That's what I've been doing with the rear wiper on my Volvo 850. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 09, 2012, 09:35:49 PM
An 11" blade is just a smidge too long.  My brother bought some of those for his B, and the middle wiper rubbed a little at the top of the windshield.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on October 10, 2012, 02:01:27 PM
An 11" blade is just a smidge too long.  My brother bought some of those for his B, and the middle wiper rubbed a little at the top of the windshield.

I remember removing the middle wiper but I don't remember what I used for the other two.  I was working at an auto parts when I owned it an probably just grabbed a couple that worked right once it was gone.  It is as superflurous as Crusty the Clown's third nipple.

I drove it in New England in the snow so I  also use winter grade booted wipers on it as well.  As a parts store manager I got a great discount on stuff.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 10, 2012, 06:50:44 PM
I remember removing the middle wiper but I don't remember what I used for the other two.  I was working at an auto parts when I owned it an probably just grabbed a couple that worked right once it was gone.  It is as superflurous as Crusty the Clown's third nipple.

I drove it in New England in the snow so I  also use winter grade booted wipers on it as well.  As a parts store manager I got a great discount on stuff.

It marginally adds to the wiper coverage for the front windscreen.  It was one of our U.S. regulations that required the wipers to have a certain amount of coverage that caused the middle on to sprout on export cars.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 11, 2012, 02:39:21 PM
The new wipers arrived and have been installed.  They were about $12 each (shipping was a couple dollars), about twice what the plastic ones go for with the same blade.

Ever since I got back from Texas, my car seems louder and down on power.  I'm going to have to see if I can find an exhaust leak somewhere.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 14, 2012, 11:37:38 PM
The new wipers work fine.  I found the source of the noise... I've been driving around with the top up and it turns the inside of the car into a huge echo chamber.  Too bad, I was considering buying a hardtop for the car (OEM or aftermarket).  I think I need to invest in some sound deadening, but I need to take care of the surface rust on the floor pans before I go sticking stuff to them.

I went looking at the different undercoats at the car show this weekend.  I swear it looks like someone sprayed the underside of my car with that industrial rustproofing/fire retardant material they spray on metal-framed buildings.  It's lumpy and white... if you've seen the inside of a multi-story office building, you know what I'm talking about.

I found the source of one of my leaks.  The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl.  I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on October 15, 2012, 06:34:33 AM
The new wipers work fine.  I found the source of the noise... I've been driving around with the top up and it turns the inside of the car into a huge echo chamber.  Too bad, I was considering buying a hardtop for the car (OEM or aftermarket).  I think I need to invest in some sound deadening, but I need to take care of the surface rust on the floor pans before I go sticking stuff to them.

I went looking at the different undercoats at the car show this weekend.  I swear it looks like someone sprayed the underside of my car with that industrial rustproofing/fire retardant material they spray on metal-framed buildings.  It's lumpy and white... if you've seen the inside of a multi-story office building, you know what I'm talking about.

I found the source of one of my leaks.  The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl.  I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.
You might want to take a look at this page then,

http://www.por15.com/

It is what we used on the floor pans in my Barracuda.  I seem to remember it is expensive but if you are only doing a small area well worth the money.  The trunk on the 'Cuda was shot with the more traditional undercoating to deaden sound which sounds a bit like what you described.  I will see if I have pictures of it the two apps on line. 


I know we discussed shooting the entire trunk area in the color of the car but opted for the undercoat material for the sound dampening and lesser anount of prep work.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 15, 2012, 08:10:34 AM
I've tried POR-15 and don't care for it.  You can buy the components individually... the only one that matters is the rust converter.  One part of the kit is simply an industrial-strength degreaser you can buy at any hardware store.  The other one is just a can of paint.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 15, 2012, 06:14:15 PM
Quote
I found the source of one of my leaks.  The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl.  I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.

I am assuming you are talking about the one that pinches between the door and windshield frame, when you shut the door?

Those are just pop-riveted in, IIRC. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 28, 2012, 12:20:43 PM
Correct.

I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car.  Has anyone used Apple before?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on October 28, 2012, 12:41:46 PM
Correct.

I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car.  Has anyone used Apple before?

No.  I did however rebuild my own lever shocks once upon a time and it was not all that bad.  Cleanliness is key to success in any hydraulic repair.  Well that, and knowing when things are spring loaded.  :whatever:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 28, 2012, 01:33:00 PM
Correct.

I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car.  Has anyone used Apple before?

My brother put Apple into his B.  He did so based upon referrals from others who have.  They are absolutely top-notch. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 28, 2012, 02:40:07 PM
No.  I did however rebuild my own lever shocks once upon a time and it was not all that bad.  Cleanliness is key to success in any hydraulic repair.  Well that, and knowing when things are spring loaded.  :whatever:
:lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 30, 2012, 07:14:06 PM
Hey, that car looks familiar.

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-OV2GINa2Y[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 01, 2012, 08:48:28 PM
I've been driving my MG since my Toyota is MIA... good thing work is only 2 miles from home.  I had the top down today since it was in the high 60's.  A '68 MGB pulled up behind me on the way home.  It was painted red like every other MGB on the road seems to be.

The world works in funny ways.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on December 01, 2012, 10:00:08 PM
I was surprised at how tiny the MG is.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 01, 2012, 10:00:30 PM
You get used to it.

The Midget/Sprite is even smaller.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on December 01, 2012, 10:02:40 PM
No, thanks. I'll keep driving my minivan.

I need room to haul all my horns. Those dinky cars just don't cut it that way.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 01, 2012, 10:04:18 PM
They're definitely not made for moving anything other than a couple of behinds.  I tried to capture the scale of how small these cars are at this year's show.  Here's a Midget and a TR4.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/2012%20Nashville%20British%20Car%20Club%20Show/Midget1.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/2012%20Nashville%20British%20Car%20Club%20Show/TR65.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on December 01, 2012, 10:07:07 PM
I might be able to get my euph in the back seat, but certainly not the bass trombone.

Don't even talk to me about the tuba.  :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on December 02, 2012, 01:15:23 PM
I might be able to get my euph in the back seat, but certainly not the bass trombone.

Don't even talk to me about the tuba.  :lmao:

I use to be able to get me and the trombone into the back kick of a Fiat Spider.  It was tight but beat walking.  Luckily the girl who's mom drove us played the flute. :lol:  I actually bought a Spider for my first car (stupid mistake) and we managed to get six in it.  When asked what we would do if the cops stopped us my flute player said "Tell 'em we got no more room."   :lol:

They are only slightly smaller than a B or about as much room as a fifty five gallon drum. :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 12, 2012, 12:52:16 PM
The cold weather caused my fuel filter to start leaking around the seams.  I was able to get a matching replacement filter at the store for less than $3.  I was wondering where that particular puddle was coming from. :???:


Now I just need a coolant overflow tank.  As it is, it just spits the extra coolant out onto the ground.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on December 12, 2012, 01:43:03 PM
The cold weather caused my fuel filter to start leaking around the seams.  I was able to get a matching replacement filter at the store for less than $3.  I was wondering where that particular puddle was coming from. :???:


Now I just need a coolant overflow tank.  As it is, it just spits the extra coolant out onto the ground.

I found a good aftermarket for the '68 'Cuda at one of the Pep Boys or VIP places.  You may have to try a couple different ones.  I had thought about getting a billet type until I saw the prices (which disabused me of that idea). 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 12, 2012, 01:49:41 PM
It's barely a filter... it's a two-piece body with a mesh screen between the two halves.

I need to update it to something like this (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_universal-fuel-filter-driveworks_10127264-p?searchTerm=fuel+filter).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on December 12, 2012, 02:19:12 PM
It's barely a filter... it's a two-piece body with a mesh screen between the two halves.

I need to update it to something like this (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_universal-fuel-filter-driveworks_10127264-p?searchTerm=fuel+filter).

That is exactly like what I use on the 'Cuda.   Some rubber fuel line and a couple mini clamps and you are in business.  I like it because the tank has never been changed in the 'Cuda and I can see when I need to change the filter.  Cheap insurance from carb problems. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 14, 2012, 12:20:12 AM
I might be able to get my euph in the back seat, but certainly not the bass trombone.

Don't even talk to me about the tuba.  :lmao:

What back seat?  :-)

The cold weather caused my fuel filter to start leaking around the seams.  I was able to get a matching replacement filter at the store for less than $3.  I was wondering where that particular puddle was coming from. :???:


Was it one of those newer glass-and-metal jobs?  Every one I've ever used has ended up leaking at one of the seams.  I don't care for the way the cheapy plastic filters look, mostly because of the prominent position the fuel filter has under the hood of a B, but at least they don't leak.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 14, 2012, 12:36:07 AM
It was the cheapest filter they sold... it looked more like a pair of plastic cones stuck together, but that was what was on there already.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on December 14, 2012, 09:17:59 PM
What back seat?  :-)

I rest my case/gig bag!   :lmao:   (Can't you even get an umbrella or a six-pack of coke in the back?)

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 14, 2012, 09:39:21 PM
I rest my case/gig bag!   :lmao:   (Can't you even get an umbrella or a six-pack of coke in the back?)


I can fit my hat back there. :whistling:

You might fit an overnight or small golf bag in there.  Getting it back out is where the problem lies.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 15, 2012, 08:43:31 PM
We took five people to go get pizza in my B one time.  So, I will say that the capacity is five people. 

We did have to put the pizza in the trunk on the way home, though.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 04, 2013, 12:46:22 AM
Finally put the car up for the winter.  74 days until spring....

I ordered a bunch of parts from Victoria British and will be refreshing the suspension, rebuilding one of the carburetors, and repairing the exhaust system since I blew out the collector pipe gasket during my trip to Texas.  Probably put new foam in the seats as well and finish recovering the dashboard (epoxy and dye) and prepping the car for a new paint job around April.

That reminds me -- I really need to call JD about fixing the crack on my door.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 04, 2013, 07:46:55 PM
You put your B up for the winter?  Sometimes, that's my favorite time to drive mine, when there is about 3" of snow on the road.  Fun! 

Did all your lever shocks check out OK? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Lacarnut on January 04, 2013, 09:11:04 PM
My brother had a MGB and I had a TR-3. Don't think our ex's liked those cars. Oh well, their loss. I have a BMW 335i coupe on order.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 04, 2013, 09:25:48 PM
Congrats :II:

I have to put the car up for a couple months.  One of the carbs is running very lean and with the cold air, I just don't want to run the engine like that.  It runs fine when it's warm (about 50º) but any colder and it just doesn't run right.  Also, I think the fuel pump likes to freeze up at night.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 04, 2013, 10:06:58 PM
Congrats :II:

I have to put the car up for a couple months.  One of the carbs is running very lean and with the cold air, I just don't want to run the engine like that.  It runs fine when it's warm (about 50º) but any colder and it just doesn't run right.  Also, I think the fuel pump likes to freeze up at night.

Do you have the SU style fuel pump, or is it solid state? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 04, 2013, 10:23:03 PM
I believe it is still the SU pump.  I've had to idle/drive the car for at least five minutes at full choke just to get enough fuel to the engine.  Otherwise, it sputters and runs lean.  I think the coldest I've had it out was around mid- to low-20°. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Dblhaul on January 19, 2013, 10:15:04 PM
I had a 72 MGBGT 15 years ago... always prefered thge droptop!
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 20, 2013, 08:40:38 AM
I believe it is still the SU pump.  I've had to idle/drive the car for at least five minutes at full choke just to get enough fuel to the engine.  Otherwise, it sputters and runs lean.  I think the coldest I've had it out was around mid- to low-20°. 

Yeah, that's not right.  Even when I had the duals on mine, I would begin to push the choke in after only a few seconds of running (not all the way of course, but you know what I mean).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 20, 2013, 09:56:36 AM
I may just have a float out of adjustment.  I'll pull off the rear carb and check.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 12:41:03 PM
I got a quote from JD to repair the crack on my driver door... $350.  He quoted me another $75 to replace the exhaust gasket that is damaged. 

I called around to get some estimates on a repaint.  The lowest one was $3,500 and most came in around $5,000.  I think I may just leave it as is for now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: IassaFTots on January 29, 2013, 12:45:22 PM
I got a quote from JD to repair the crack on my driver door... $350.  He quoted me another $75 to replace the exhaust gasket that is damaged. 

I called around to get some estimates on a repaint.  The lowest one was $3,500 and most came in around $5,000.  I think I may just leave it as is for now.

It looks fine.  Who needs new paint?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 12:46:33 PM
The clearcoat on the hood is peeling, there are huge stone chips and scratches on the front of the car, the trunk lid is an entirely different shade of yellow, and there is peeling and rust spots on the interior.

It looks fine from five feet away, but I figured I'd just have the whole thing resprayed.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on January 29, 2013, 02:06:30 PM
I had these guys paint my truck at the el-cheapo ($200 total of $1100.00 after body work) level. It's been over 5 years and it still looks good.



http://www.maaco.ca/Paint.htm
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 02:40:25 PM
After the estimates I got, I'm considering it.  I dont mind paying $1500-2000 for a paint job, but twice that is just ridiculous.  I only paid $5,000 for the whole car.

Here's the crack on the door:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/IMG_20130129_130734.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/IMG_20130129_130800.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on January 29, 2013, 03:52:35 PM
That is an ugly crack you got there Chris, ugly.  Have you had the panel off and looked inside the door?   They are pretty simple to take off IIRC.  Might be worth a look.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 03:54:13 PM
I haven't yet.  There's are a few trim pieces on the door that need to be replaced.  I'll take everything off before I bring the car in to be repaired.

I think the cold weather may have made the crack worse. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on January 29, 2013, 03:59:38 PM
I haven't yet.  There's are a few trim pieces on the door that need to be replaced.  I'll take everything off before I bring the car in to be repaired.

I think the cold weather may have made the crack worse. 

I don't think I ever saw one go like that, wonder if the mirror mount was loose and caused a flexing action?  Rust is one think but a crack? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 04:02:49 PM
I'm not sure.

I need to call Victoria British ASAP before their half-off sale ends.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 04:47:20 PM
  
I don't think I ever saw one go like that, wonder if the mirror mount was loose and caused a flexing action?  Rust is one think but a crack?  

The crack gets there because people would sometimes use the window vent trim to pull the door shut, instead of using the door handle.  

The trick is to pull the door shut with your right hand, instead of trying to use your left hand.  I'm not a big person, and it's tight for me to try to use my left hand to close the door.  

At the very least, drill the bottom of the crack to stop it from traveling.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 04:51:58 PM
I usually pull the handle or the top of the door to close it... I never, ever grabbed the mirror or window to do that.  It looks like someone was using the mirror as a pull handle.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 05:00:47 PM
I usually pull the handle or the top of the door to close it... I never, ever grabbed the mirror or window to do that.  It looks like someone was using the mirror as a pull handle.

Yeah, hope you didn't think I was implying you shut it like that.  It probably takes years for a crack like that to develop.  Mine has the crack of doom, too.  It's been drilled, so I can wiggle the window frame and make the crack 'flex' without worry of it spreading.

When I finally get around to rubbing off all the old paint with polish, I'll fix it right.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 05:43:06 PM
Battlehymn's garage, three minutes ago:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0686.jpg)
Carnage!!!  Doesn't this look like fun?  :naughty:  Any volunteers to help?   :-)

That bottom radiator hose is the worst one I've ever had to fight with to try to remove.  It's easier to take out the whole radiator than it is to fight with that b*stard.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 05:46:59 PM
Whatcha doin'? :popcorn:

Is that a new pulley set?  It doesn't look stock.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 06:06:31 PM
I'm trying to get the front pulley off, to take a look at the seal. 

I'm also going to try to pull the oil pan with the engine in the car.  Man, there is just no room between the crossmember and the oil pan bolts.  I might loosen the motor mounts to give myself some more room.

The pulley set is the one that ships with the supercharger kit.  It uses a serpentine belt that I believe is the same as a Miata, so all the pulleys had to be changed. 

Does your B have the area on the inner fender well beat out like mine (just left of the alternator)?  Every B I've ever seen has that area beat out.  I have no idea why. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 06:16:32 PM
Not that I could tell... looks fine to me.

I forgot you had the supercharger.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 06:20:55 PM
I'm also going to try to pull the oil pan with the engine in the car.  Man, there is just no room between the crossmember and the oil pan bolts.  I might loosen the motor mounts to give myself some more room.
I was going to suggest jacking up the engine while it's still in the car.  It's SOP on changing the timing belt/camshaft on the Datsun's motor.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 06:26:48 PM
Nuts.  I got as far as needing a 1 1/2" (or thereabouts) socket to remove the pulley bolt.  Citing the 'close enough' rule, I tried using a 36MM socket I had sitting around and two blocks of wood and the 'bump the starter' trick.  I ended up flinging the socket and 1/2" ratchet into the workl light I had been using.  The bolt is still fast on there, mocking me and my broken work light.      
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 06:30:06 PM
I was going to suggest jacking up the engine while it's still in the car.  It's SOP on changing the timing belt/camshaft on the Datsun's motor.

Yeah, and I think you're right there, because I don't know if I've got enough room to take this pulley off the nose of the crankshaft with the engine where it sits normally.  I need more 'forward' area to pull it away from the crankshaft, and the stupid steering rack is in the way. 


Sometimes this thing reminds me of putting together or taking apart an intricate erector set model in the dark with a pair of needle nose pliers.  Everything is in front of everything else, on top of everything else, or in the way of everything else.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 07:04:02 PM
Nuts.  I got as far as needing a 1 1/2" (or thereabouts) socket to remove the pulley bolt.  Citing the 'close enough' rule, I tried using a 36MM socket I had sitting around and two blocks of wood and the 'bump the starter' trick.  I ended up flinging the socket and 1/2" ratchet into the workl light I had been using.  The bolt is still fast on there, mocking me and my broken work light.      
Oh no! :rotf:

BTDT.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 07:05:01 PM
Yeah, and I think you're right there, because I don't know if I've got enough room to take this pulley off the nose of the crankshaft with the engine where it sits normally.  I need more 'forward' area to pull it away from the crankshaft, and the stupid steering rack is in the way.
I think the Ford Crown Vic (the last model) is the same way.  I recall someone bitching about a frame crossmember being in the way of the oil pan bolts.

I have yet to change out my oil separator material... I can't fit my hand (or a wrench) up from the bottom far enough to unbolt the cover, and I can't see the damn thing from the top.  I tried to find some really long wrenches for sale, but they all seem to be the same size.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 09:56:06 PM
I think the Ford Crown Vic (the last model) is the same way.  I recall someone bitching about a frame crossmember being in the way of the oil pan bolts.

I have yet to change out my oil separator material... I can't fit my hand (or a wrench) up from the bottom far enough to unbolt the cover, and I can't see the damn thing from the top.  I tried to find some really long wrenches for sale, but they all seem to be the same size.

I know it doesn't help, but I don't have any problem getting the front tappet cover off.  I don't know how long your arm is, though, but I really have to bend mine at a squirrely angle to get it undone.  I also have a Peco header (was on the car when I bought it), so I don't know if I have more or less clearance than you do at that spot. 

I'll be posting some pictures shortly here of my progress tonight, once I degrease my hands.  I've got a few minor issues to deal with. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 10:00:16 PM
Also, I went out and looked at where that bolt is you're trying to get off.  There appears to be three angles of attack:

-From above and in front of the engine, which requires you to be a double-jointed chimpanzee with six elbows on your arm.

-From below, which, depending on how your exhaust manifold runs and how big around your forearm is, you may or may not be able to do (this looks like the easiest to do, though).

-From the side, using a socket-wobbler-extension-ratchet.  Again, I don't have the stock carbs on mine, but it is possible for me, at least, with the aforementioned tools.   

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 10:01:59 PM
1: can't see it

2: can't reach it

3: haven't tried it
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 29, 2013, 10:31:27 PM
Here you can see how much room I didn't have between the crank pulley and the steering rack:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0687.jpg)

The back of the crankshaft pulley.  It looks like maybe a smallish leak, but not for the amount of oil I was losing:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0690.jpg)

The real culprit turned out to be the bottom of the timing chain cover gasket.  It was just oil-soaked.  I'll replace the front crank seal gasket, while I'm in here.  You'll also notice the supercharger tensioner bracket is prominent in this photo.  This is absolutely the weakest link on the whole car.  If you look closely, you'll notice the allen-head bolts are loose (again).  Tighten them too much, and they break off.  Tighten them too little, and they loosen up. 

The bottom bolt should be an allen-head bolt, but I made my own contraption down there once, when Moss couldn't get me a replacement bolt fast enough over a weekend.  It is the only one of the two that held tight:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0691.jpg)

Everything off, and ready to have the gasket scraped off tomorrow.  If you look at the top bolt hole where the cover bolts onto the block, you'll see one of those Moss 4mm bolts broken off flush with the block.  I used Loctite on them once, and ended up having it break off flush with the block, so no more Loctite on these:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0693.jpg)

Finally, a connecting rod, from my spare MGB short block:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0694.jpg)



Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 29, 2013, 10:43:04 PM
Holy cow, that thing is huge.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on January 30, 2013, 10:45:43 AM
Damn. It looks like a thighbone from a Brontosaurus.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Bad Dog on January 30, 2013, 10:54:07 AM
Does your B have the area on the inner fender well beat out like mine (just left of the alternator)?  Every B I've ever seen has that area beat out.  I have no idea why. 

Probably done during manufacturing process.  Typical British procedure.  There was a picture in a book I had about Sunbeam Tigers (which were V-8 equipped Alpines) showing a burly chap standing in the empty engine compartment beating on the firewall with a big sledge hammer. I could see the "modifications" on both of the Tigers I owned a 1965 & 68 so they used this throughout the life of the Tiger.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on January 30, 2013, 11:19:42 AM
Over many years I have come to the conclusion that a good engine hoist and transmission jack are probably worth keeping on hand.  You could hold a ballroom dance under the hood of my slant six Cuda but barely stuff a piece of twine under the PT Cruiser.  I never worked on the Cruiser except maybe to put in oil and wiper fluid but darn it was cramped under there.

Of course a nice lift and heated garage would always be handy to have too. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 30, 2013, 05:20:28 PM
Over many years I have come to the conclusion that a good engine hoist and transmission jack are probably worth keeping on hand.  You could hold a ballroom dance under the hood of my slant six Cuda but barely stuff a piece of twine under the PT Cruiser.  I never worked on the Cruiser except maybe to put in oil and wiper fluid but darn it was cramped under there.

Of course a nice lift and heated garage would always be handy to have too. 

Add an Oberg Tilt-Lift to your list, too. 

I plan on heating the garage next year.  I always try to put projects off until the weather gets nice, but then find myself wanting to do other things in the summer, rather than hang around in the garage all day. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 30, 2013, 05:21:53 PM
1: can't see it

2: can't reach it

3: haven't tried it

That doesn't mean much on these cars.  Half my work is done by feel. :-)

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 30, 2013, 05:25:22 PM
That doesn't mean much on these cars.  Half my work is done by feel. :-)
I may have better luck after removing the carburetor.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 30, 2013, 05:32:07 PM
I may have better luck after removing the carburetor.

I just talked to my brother, who had the exact same setup you have now.  He reached his from underneath, holding the wrench clenched between two fingers.  He thinks he had the most luck positioning himself under the car (right handed), rather than trying to attack that bolt from just under the front of the car (left handed).

If it's just a cork gasket, you might need to replace it, rather than just tightening it down.  I've had the best luck running a rubber gasket on one of the covers, and a cork gasket on the other. 

Something else to look for is sometimes those covers get overtightened and bow in from the center, where the bolt tension is applying the force.  I've had to tap out two of four covers on my two MGs, due to previous owners doing just that.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 30, 2013, 06:41:10 PM
That's what I was doing.

It's not the gasket I'm after, it's the filler material inside the oil separator... I think it's clogged.  Maybe I should put that new air compressor to use.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 30, 2013, 07:04:53 PM
That's what I was doing.

It's not the gasket I'm after, it's the filler material inside the oil separator... I think it's clogged.  Maybe I should put that new air compressor to use.

Yeah, I thought you mentioned you had a leak there, too. 

The material does tend to fill up.  I've cleaned mine at least twice with a kerosene bath.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 31, 2013, 10:26:41 PM
The way the oil separator is set up, I wonder if I could just replace it with a standard PCV valve.

Probably not, or I would have seen someone mention it by now.  Oh well, back to the stone age... copper scrub pads to the rescue.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 31, 2013, 10:34:11 PM
The way the oil separator is set up, I wonder if I could just replace it with a standard PCV valve.

Probably not, or I would have seen someone mention it by now.  Oh well, back to the stone age... copper scrub pads to the rescue.

I wondered the same thing when I put the supercharger kit on.  I didn't want to cut or mangle any of the original hoses on the car, and so I never connecting the vent to the supercharger anywhere. 

I know a slight vacuum is good for your lower end, but I couldn't come up with anything that I thought looked right.  A pcv ball valve would have been great, since it would theoretically stop the supercharger from pressurizing the crankcase when it is on boost. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 31, 2013, 10:35:39 PM
The valve from the 280ZX is almost a perfect fit.

I haven't fitted one on, but it looks about the same size.  If it's too large, one from a Chevrolet pickup, circa 1981, may fit.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 02, 2013, 08:12:48 PM
The valve from the 280ZX is almost a perfect fit.

I haven't fitted one on, but it looks about the same size.  If it's too large, one from a Chevrolet pickup, circa 1981, may fit.

I will have to remember to rob one off of one of my parts cars the next time I got out to my parents'.  I was just out there to braze a bracket. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 02, 2013, 08:19:35 PM
So, my parts came in today.  This picture makes for a good British car oil leak punchline all by itself:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0700_zps10c4843b.jpg)

I'm going to try to take the lower end of the braided oil line off without removing the distributor.  I don't think it's possible, but I'm going to try.



Here is the bracket for the supercharger that started out as four pieces.  I brazed them all together, in hopes of limiting movement that is causing the bolts to sheer or come loose.  I haven't painted it yet, I'll wait until tomorrow when I can do so outside.  I had to be particular about where the braze laid, since there is other hardware that passes through the other holes you see:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0701_zpsee77b8b2.jpg)

My brother had a spare front plate laying around, so I was able to tighten everything up the way it is supposed to be on the car, so it's all nice and square.





Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 03, 2013, 03:48:24 PM
I got the MG home from the office where it's been sitting for a couple of months.  I had to go shopping for it... had to replace the flasher relay (I have a leak under the dash that rusts it out), all the bulbs on the rear of the car were either dim or out, and I upgraded the plastic fuel filter to one with a metal body.  The plastic one is leaking again.

Other than that (and the lean carbs), it's running fine.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 03, 2013, 06:41:47 PM
Did you ever get around to spiffing up your ground connections?

I'm wondering if your bulbs weren't/aren't dim due to the two grounds in the wiring harness on the inside of your trunk.  I think they're behind the license plate, inside the trunk.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 03, 2013, 07:02:24 PM
Not yet. 

My radio barely put out any sound today.  I need to check that.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 03, 2013, 07:20:50 PM
Not yet. 

My radio barely put out any sound today.  I need to check that.

I had a dim bulb on my last B.  One of the grounds on the back was just barely making a connection. 

I'm not sure what might be wrong with your radio, though.  You've got an aftermarket in there though, right?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 03, 2013, 08:11:40 PM
I had a dim bulb on my last B.  One of the grounds on the back was just barely making a connection. 

I'm not sure what might be wrong with your radio, though.  You've got an aftermarket in there though, right?
I've had this problem before.  I think I might have moved some wires around when I was changing out that flasher relay.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 03, 2013, 08:13:46 PM
I've had this problem before.  I think I might have moved some wires around when I was changing out that flasher relay.

I think there is a jumble of those bullet connectors under there near that relay. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 03, 2013, 08:18:38 PM
I just got done resoldering the radiator hose flange on the radiator.  Some previous owner decided to just epoxy over a crack in the solder, rather than fixing it. 

If I can solder, anybody can solder.  Soldering with a torch seems to have more in common with juggling chainsaws than it does soldering little electronic stuff like I'm used to.  I think I've got the hang of it now, though.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2013, 09:40:47 AM
If you can't fix it, find a bigger hammer.

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ0wovq5mDY[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 05, 2013, 04:28:05 PM
If you can't fix it, find a bigger hammer.

I can't believe I just watched a six minute video of a guy beating out dents in a tube, and enjoyed it.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2013, 04:30:29 PM
I got a kick out of the homemade gasket video.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on February 05, 2013, 04:45:07 PM
I can't believe I just watched a six minute video of a guy beating out dents in a tube, and enjoyed it.   

That vise looked like it had been through WWIII.

Yeah, I know. I watched it too.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 05, 2013, 05:00:25 PM
So, I was buttoning up the B just now, and noticed that I had forgotten to tighten down the oil filter base to oil cooler hose fitting properly, so it was losing some oil there.

When I looked further down the frame rail, I noticed the oil cap that I thought I had lost last year!  Bonus! 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 05, 2013, 07:10:27 PM
Just got back from a nice drive.  Looks like no leaks.  :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2013, 08:21:53 PM
Yay, a free oil filler cap.  :rofl:

I had my oil changed at one of those quick change places with another car and the son of a bitch swiped my OEM cap and replaced it with a crappy aftermarket one.  Bastard.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2013, 09:34:44 PM
I can't believe I just watched a six minute video of a guy beating out dents in a tube, and enjoyed it.   
Eli does a good job.  I'm glad he's not putting his name on the videos anymore, though.

Damn kids.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 05, 2013, 09:49:02 PM
I had my oil changed at one of those quick change places with another car and the son of a bitch swiped my OEM cap and replaced it with a crappy aftermarket one.  Bastard.

Man, that's just wrong.  Did you go back after the OEM cap?   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2013, 09:53:40 PM
Nah, this was another car I was driving, like a Toyota or a Buick.  I didn't care.

I think my MG cap may be aftermarket.  It's got this cheap loop on it that keeps it from falling off.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 05, 2013, 10:09:08 PM
Nah, this was another car I was driving, like a Toyota or a Buick.  I didn't care.

I think my MG cap may be aftermarket.  It's got this cheap loop on it that keeps it from falling off.

This is factory.  Does it look like this?

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0703_zps4a9bafce.jpg)

They are supposed to have a strap that loops down around the filler neck and connects to that brass rivet in the middle of the cap.  I actually the caps look better without it.  At least I tell myself that so I don't have to buy another one.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2013, 10:10:19 PM
Yeah, that's it.

The strap is broken.  I'm glad I haven't lost it yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 08, 2013, 12:35:12 AM
I called Mallory and got the correct part number for a new cap and rotor and was able to order one (with shipping) for under $40.

Not bad.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 08, 2013, 12:39:31 AM
I called Mallory and got the correct part number for a new cap and rotor and was able to order one (with shipping) for under $40.

Not bad.

I keep forgetting you have that Mallory (dual points?) distributor. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on February 08, 2013, 09:41:50 AM
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Caution-Parts-May-Fall-Off-Funny-Vinyl-Car-Van-Sticker-Decal-Jdm-Vag-Euro-Drift-/00/s/MjQ0WDM2Nw==/$(KGrHqZHJB!E-EfS1P36BP)07ofjd!~~60_35.JPG)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 08, 2013, 09:42:49 AM
Haters be hatin'.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on February 08, 2013, 10:51:33 AM
Yay, a free oil filler cap.  :rofl:

I had my oil changed at one of those quick change places with another car and the son of a bitch swiped my OEM cap and replaced it with a crappy aftermarket one.  Bastard.
:censored: :banghead: :censored:  Repeat after me "I will never succome to the temptation of letting a quickie oil change place work on my vehicle."  Bad! Bad!! Bad!!!, experiences are all I have ever had.  They hire the mechanically challenged just for sport.  Want the wrong drain plug reinstalled or how about just cross thread it?  How about the wrong filter? Oh wait, we can bung up the threads on that too.   Yep they can do some awesome things even just driving your vehicle in and out.  Scary. 

I was down by the MG place just yesterday.  I swear a Bug Eyed Sprite winked at me.  :naughty:  (They are right next door to a great place to get boat fresh fish).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 08, 2013, 01:30:23 PM
Did it blow you a kiss too? :rofl:

I did some more shopping today.  I'm sending the tachometer to Nisonger to be rebuilt and I ordered a bunch of replacement parts for stuff that is broken.  The door top rail is falling apart.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 08, 2013, 05:55:42 PM
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Caution-Parts-May-Fall-Off-Funny-Vinyl-Car-Van-Sticker-Decal-Jdm-Vag-Euro-Drift-/00/s/MjQ0WDM2Nw==/$(KGrHqZHJB!E-EfS1P36BP)07ofjd!~~60_35.JPG)

Wait, were you driving behind me today on the way to the barbecue restaurant?  Did you see what fell off, and where it went?   :-)



Just joking.  I've only lost one part that way that I can remember.  I was going down the interstate, and heard the distinct 'tink tink' sound of something falling out of the engine bay, and bouncing on the firewall, the floorboard, and finally the gas tank before it was lost to the nether-region of the emergency lanes of the interstate.  I can't even remember what it was now.  I think it was a bolt for the carbs. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 09, 2013, 08:37:08 PM
Just curious, did you re-jet your carburetors when you installed the supercharger?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 09, 2013, 09:15:03 PM
I have one giant ABF634 SU that hangs off the back of the supercharger.  The needle is what shipped with it, although I did change the air filter and body with a custom unit was designed by APT Fast, so that it can draw more air. 

The stock air filter and housing doesn't draw as much air, resulting in an over-rich condition at high rpms.  I wouldn't wish my worst enemy to try to get this air filter on or off, though.  It's tight.

The newer supercharger kits from Moss moved the body of the supercharger further forward,to facilitate a larger air cleaner.  I've heard the new units are not as aesthetically pleasing as the earlier units like mine, though. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 09, 2013, 09:21:25 PM
Perhaps this would have made things a little clearer-- this is a draw-through supercharger system, not a blow-through.  The vanes of the supercharger are specially treated with a coating, since they are constantly sprayed with gasoline.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 09, 2013, 09:52:17 PM
1974 MG B GT (http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3512378768.html)

I could buy it... or not. :-)

That won't stay up for long.  I wouldn't be surprised if it's already sold.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 09, 2013, 11:46:36 PM
1974 MG B GT (http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3512378768.html)

I could buy it... or not. :-)

That won't stay up for long.  I wouldn't be surprised if it's already sold.

It's been awhile since I've looked at prices on these.  But on that one I see door cars that have water damage, dusty gauges, so it may have been sitting for awhile, a piece of what may be a broken piece of trim in front of the gear shifter, and a non-original steering wheel.

I'd still let it in my driveway, though.  :-)  I think the rubber bumper GTs look much, much better than their convertible counterparts.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 10, 2013, 01:08:32 AM
I'm holding out for a '63 Fairlane or a '68-'82 Corvette.  I need an American car to round out my collection.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on February 11, 2013, 12:08:48 PM
I'm holding out for a '63 Fairlane or a '68-'82 Corvette.  I need an American car to round out my collection.

I would kill for a '68 Vette. I'd even clean the ashtray out.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on February 11, 2013, 01:45:08 PM
I would kill for a '68 Vette. I'd even clean the ashtray out.

My roommate, a Thai student, bought a brand new yellow 68 Vette with a 350hp and T tops.  Nice ride which he totally trashed.   :bawl:

It was quick I will give it that.  My other roomie had a  '67 396 Chevelle SS which might have been a shade quicker.  Me?  I had a '55 TR2. :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 11, 2013, 02:41:05 PM
The timing belt on my Camry slipped.  Looks like I'm back to the MG.

Spring needs to hurry up and get here.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 11, 2013, 10:22:36 PM
After some digging around, I don't think it's the timing belt... I think the Toyota's torque converter may be stuck.  The car is at the garage.  I just need to get it unstuck (and probably get a fluid/filter change while it's off the car).

We'll see what happens.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 11, 2013, 10:33:16 PM
Gonna be cold this weekend.  I was hoping to get the exhaust gaskets on the MG changed out on Saturday/Sunday -- doesn't look like it's going to happen.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 07:33:48 AM
Gonna be cold this weekend.  I was hoping to get the exhaust gaskets on the MG changed out on Saturday/Sunday -- doesn't look like it's going to happen.

That sucks about the Camry.  Are your exhaust gaskets leaking on the B, or what?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 08:16:31 AM
Yeah, they leak and they're loud.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 03:23:22 PM
Looks like my Camry needs a new transmission.  He said it would be about a thousand dollars.  I'll have my car back by Friday.

On the other hand, I went over the carbs on the MG and the dampers were low on oil.  Filled it up to the top of reservoir, lowered the idle, and I think that may have fixed my lean-running problem.  I'm going to change out this cheapass fuel filter because I'm seeing some foaming in it and I need something larger that will hold an ource of gas while the engine runs to prevent that from happening.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 04:20:24 PM
I'm going to change out this cheapass fuel filter because I'm seeing some foaming in it and I need something larger that will hold an ource of gas while the engine runs to prevent that from happening.

Interesting.  The one I use is slightly tapered, but has a 6" circumference at the largest.  Are you running one of those little bitty ones that is the size of your thumb? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 04:27:19 PM
Yes, that's about the size of it.  I don't really know how to describe it.  It's a pair of cones with a mesh screen in the middle as a filter.  There's no paper element at all.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 04:38:22 PM
Yes, that's about the size of it.  I don't really know how to describe it.  It's a pair of cones with a mesh screen in the middle as a filter.  There's no paper element at all.

I've seen ones that have a cylindrical mesh screen in them, but nothing like what you're talking about.  Where did you get it?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 05:47:02 PM
I got it at Advance Auto.  It's so cheap, they don't even have it listed on their website.  This (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fuel-in-line-gasoline-filter-fram_22661038-p?searchTerm=inline+fuel+filter) is the one I replaced it with.  Now my fuel pump makes that satisfying "glug glug" noise when I turn the key.  Seems to be running fine now that there's fuel in the filter.

The other one barely filled up.  I think it just passed through that mesh and got aerated in the process.  It also leaked.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 06:56:44 PM
Yeah, that's basically the shape (so possibly the size) of the one I have.  If your fuel filter was anywhere near where mine is, that is a BAD spot to have any kind of fuel leak.  I just got rid of a classy looking glass one (I may have mentioned it back a few pages or so), because it was leaking right on the header. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 07:13:39 PM
I lost one of my damper caps.  The damn thing must have come off when I stomped on the gas. :bs:

That's the only reason I checked the oil in the damper... I'm pretty sure it was empty before that.  I ordered a replacement and had it shipped overnight.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 07:36:15 PM
It will run OK without the damper, just not great, in my experience. 

On the ones on my 240Z when it was really, really cold sometimes, I'd unscrew them altogether, and just let them rise and fall with the piston until the oil warmed up a bit.  No worries.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 07:38:30 PM
I'm more concerned about losing oil without the cap.  It was loose to begin with, not even finger-tight.  Maybe the cap was broken.  We'll see tomorrow if it's any better.  Near-freezing again tonight.  I always have a hard time with cold starts but that was with the old, crappy filter.  The gas coming through the other filter was kind of whitish in color.  Looks fine now.

I came across a few writeups that said low damper oil will cause a lean condition.  Like I said, I hope it's fixed now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 07:59:50 PM
Correct, a low oil level in the damper will cause a lean condition on acceleration/goosing the throttle.  The piston is able to rise too fast, causing more air than fuel to be drawn into the intake.  Your air/fuel ratio should smooth out once you are going down the road at a stable cruising speed.  Anymore than a cruising speed, and you may cause the pistons to sort of vibrate up and down quickly, which will give a messed up air/fuel ratio, too. 
 

Oh, and I've never had the oil in the piston damper go anywhere without the cap on.  It just sort of sits there.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 08:02:11 PM
Oh, I forgot to add, not having that damper in at all will probably make the car drive like you have no oil in the damper(s) at all.  So take it really easy on your takeoffs, and you should be fine.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 08:06:14 PM
I ordered a replacement.  Hopefully it will be here tomorrow.

It wasn't too bad... less than $20 before shipping.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 08:11:09 PM
The lean condition was at idle and above based on John Twist's instructions for tuning the HIF with a Unisyn.  Front carb is fine, rear carb not so much.  If this fixes it, I'll be really happy... I won't have to pull the carbs and buy new floats.  The "adjustable" floats went out the door in 1969 and they went to using spacers or shims.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 08:12:50 PM
Have you had your HIF bowls off yet?  I'm curious if there is any debris in them. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 08:13:43 PM
Not yet.  I may do it this weekend if it's not too cold.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 08:16:37 PM
I'm trying to remember if those use a cork or a rubber seal to seat onto the base of the SU body.  With your luck, maybe you should wait until the Camry is back.   :popcorn:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 08:22:30 PM
Thanks for mentioning it. :hammer:

I was able to buy a thermostat gasket for the MG at Auto Zone.  It was the same generic gasket Nissan was using for the ZX/Maxima.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 12, 2013, 08:33:11 PM
V6 or L6 variety?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 12, 2013, 08:35:22 PM
Early Maxima... L6.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 13, 2013, 08:43:52 AM
This morning's drive was a huge improvement over previous ones.  It idles fine when it's cold, but I have to run the choke once I start moving or it starves for fuel.  It's not nearly as bad as it was before... I had the choke pulled all the way out yesterday and it barely ran above idle.  This morning, I only had to pull the choke out about half an inch.

I will definitely check the float bowls for gunk.  I hope that takes care of this.  My damper cap should be here tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 13, 2013, 04:36:12 PM
This morning's drive was a huge improvement over previous ones.  It idles fine when it's cold, but I have to run the choke once I start moving or it starves for fuel.  It's not nearly as bad as it was before... I had the choke pulled all the way out yesterday and it barely ran above idle.  This morning, I only had to pull the choke out about half an inch.

I will definitely check the float bowls for gunk.  I hope that takes care of this.  My damper cap should be here tomorrow.

I drove my Volvo to work today, and nothing happened. :yawn:

 :fuelfire: :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 13, 2013, 04:38:54 PM
I'm sorry your commute was boring.  You should try disconnecting a couple of random wires and see what happens.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 13, 2013, 04:41:02 PM
I'm sorry your commute was boring.  You should try disconnecting a couple of random wires and see what happens.

 :rotf: 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 13, 2013, 08:43:57 PM
A thousand dollars later, I got my Camry back.  They said something in the transmission "exploded".  Not sure what it was... it wasn't anything I did.

Had to leave the MG parked in front of the dumpster at the garage because there wasn't any other parking available.  Hope it doesn't get towed until I can get to it tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 13, 2013, 08:45:31 PM
A thousand dollars later, I got my Camry back.  They said something in the transmission "exploded".  Not sure what it was... it wasn't anything I did.

Had to leave the MG parked in front of the dumpster at the garage because there wasn't any other parking available.  Hope it doesn't get towed until I can get to it tomorrow.


One thing I dislike is automatic transmissions.  They're darn near impossible for the DIY'er to repair if something happens, without having a 200-page manual on hand to service them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 13, 2013, 08:47:14 PM
I've dealt with a manual... couldn't get the ******* thing to stop leaking.  **** it.

They don't troubleshoot these things.  They yank them out and replace it with a spare.  No other work involved.  I didn't look at the invoice, but I think they charged me for four hours of labor.  Not a great deal in the scheme of things.  They're pretty much made to unbolt and swap out as it is (not that I've done one).

I guess the only difference is if you buy new, rebuilt, or salvage.  It doesn't drive any different.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 14, 2013, 10:33:45 AM
So my new damper arrived, and it won't fit.  It's the same size and shape as the other one but it won't go in to the air piston.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/sudamper1_zpsdf0157e6.jpg)


edit: found it.  The botom end of the old damper broke off in the carb. :thatsright:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/HIF4dampers_zps76ad83e2.jpg)

New one is on the right.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 14, 2013, 06:05:58 PM
Is your new damper missing the brass part?  Did you drive it yet?

Also, it looks like a gorilla mangled your Commission No. tag. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 14, 2013, 06:27:39 PM
I guess I'm supposed to transfer the brass part from the old damped to the new one.  Good thing it's stuck in the carburetor and not missing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 14, 2013, 06:30:04 PM
I guess I'm supposed to transfer the brass part from the old damped to the new one.  Good thing it's stuck in the carburetor and not missing.

Wow, I would have figured you'd get that piece with it.  I wonder what a guy is supposed to do if he loses the whole thing?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 14, 2013, 07:27:05 PM
I got one of those grabby claw things two Christmases ago.  This will be the first legitimate use I've had for it, other than messing with the cat.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 14, 2013, 07:39:58 PM
I consider messing with the cat(s) with any tool a legitimate use thereof. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 17, 2013, 02:21:18 PM
Took a peek in the trunk this afternoon and noticed what looked like a grounding strap (a pair of black wires connected by a loop terminal at the end) was disconnected from a nearby prong attached to the body.

Interesting.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on February 18, 2013, 01:06:05 PM
Took a peek in the trunk this afternoon and noticed what looked like a grounding strap (a pair of black wires connected by a loop terminal at the end) was disconnected from a nearby prong attached to the body.

Interesting.

Maybe that explains the periodic 12V jolts you get when you hit a bump.

Okay, all right, it ain't a jolt - it's a tickle.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 19, 2013, 09:24:30 PM
I haven't climbed under the car to check out the exhaust since I got back from Texas, but someone else with the same problem re-torqued the bolts on his exhaust and fixed his loud-ass car.  Worth a try... it's supposed to be nice this weekend.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 19, 2013, 10:10:36 PM
What kind of noise is your exhaust making that it shouldn't be making? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 19, 2013, 10:15:09 PM
None, it's just extremely loud from the collector pipe back.  I think the exhaust manifold may be loose as well.

It's pretty much been like that since I did 90mph on I-30 through Texas.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2013, 11:46:48 AM
I had to pull the entire plunger assembly out to remove the broken damper.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/carbdamper1sm_zpsc59e838d.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/carbdamper2sm_zpsca48a764.jpg)

There's a smaller circlip that came off.  This is not going to be fun. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2013, 12:04:02 PM
That was easy enough.  Problem -- I have a part left over. :rofl:

There's a second weight, it's the lighter-colored brass one nearer to the broken end of the post.  There's no way to put it back on with the cap attached to the end of the new damper.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on February 23, 2013, 12:27:54 PM
That was easy enough.  Problem -- I have a part left over. :rofl:

There's a second weight, it's the lighter-colored brass one nearer to the broken end of the post.  There's no way to put it back on with the cap attached to the end of the new damper.

I'll loan you my .45 to put it out of its misery.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 23, 2013, 02:21:33 PM
That was easy enough.  Problem -- I have a part left over. :rofl:

There's a second weight, it's the lighter-colored brass one nearer to the broken end of the post.  There's no way to put it back on with the cap attached to the end of the new damper.

 
Which part can you not put on?  I've numbered them:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0713_zps0c35aed9.jpg)

If it's #4, that's the one that prevents #2 and #3 from just floating around in there all over the place.  I suspect #2 and #3 would just move right along with the piston when acted upon by the oil, instead of slowing the speed of the piston, without #4 in place.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2013, 02:24:35 PM
There's a fifth part.  Look above 1-4 on my photo.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 23, 2013, 02:32:35 PM
Ah, I see it now.  I couldn't tell that it wasn't attached to #3.  I'm sure that it is some sort of improvement over the older design, because when my brother ordered two new dampers for his car, they both came with those. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2013, 02:39:17 PM
I seem to have another problem.  The air flow through the rear carburetor is far lower than the front.  The front one is about in the middle on my Unisyn, the rear one barely registers at all.

I may have to pay to have it rebuilt if I can't fix it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 23, 2013, 02:41:55 PM
I seem to have another problem.  The air flow through the rear carburetor is far lower than the front.  The front one is about in the middle on my Unisyn, the rear one barely registers at all.

I may have to pay to have it rebuilt if I can't fix it.

Is this at idle?  I think those draw idle only through one carb.  Let me call my brother, and ask him what he did, because I think he had the same problem.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2013, 03:52:54 PM
Got it.  My idle screws were set wrong.  I got them pulling the same amount of air, now I have to check my fuel mixture.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: 17 Oaks on February 23, 2013, 05:52:28 PM
I looked at some 912's... I even considered flying out west to pick one up, but they were out of my budget.  I'm really happy with the MG other than it is not really a daily driver, at least not unless you lift weights for a living or live really close to work.  A 45-minute commute in this car is not going to be fun in the long term, but that's not why I bought it.  I drove this thing to a dozen different stops and back home yesterday and was wore out.  By the time I got home, my armpits hurt.

I did not own a car with AC or PS until `974, never knew what I was missing :rofl:


Do your SU's use oil?  I have a '58 MGA with twin SU's and I had to fill them with oil, Used 40 wt in the summer (Texas) and 20 weight in the winter...?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2013, 05:53:41 PM
I'm using 20w50 motor oil.

:banghead: Still running lean.

I'm going to forget about the carbs for now.  I have to take them off to get to the intake manifold bolts, so I'll be messing with that tomorrow along with the rest of the exhaust.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 24, 2013, 11:51:45 AM
Got the carburetors and heat shield off.  At least now I can access the oil separator cover.  I ordered a set of gaskets, but the ones I was sent were labeled for a 2-barrel Ford.  Crossing my fingers.

My headers look good... no cracks, no obvious separation around the manifold, and the bolts are snug. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 24, 2013, 12:19:37 PM
This is probably a dumb question, but with you running lean, have you made sure you don't have any leaks between the SU bodies and the intake manifold? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 24, 2013, 01:30:18 PM
Haven't got that far yet.

No gunk at the bottom of the float chamber, but my floats were way off.  I got them adjusted and will put them back on after I re-check the exhaust and clean the oil separator.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/carbsjpg_zps62f4dd18.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 24, 2013, 01:48:32 PM
I think my needle valves/seats are shot.  They're both collapsed and not springing back like these are.

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPCfwkIdWpc[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 24, 2013, 03:09:51 PM
Pulled the manifold and it looks okay.  One of the seals between the intake manifold and the engine fell off as I was pulling it.  It looked pretty sad -- might as well replace both of them.

The header is full of rusty pinholes but the gasket looks intact.  I loosened the bolts holding the header on and they came off without any fuss, so that is one less thing to be bothered with.  I suppose next is to crawl under the car and check the rest of the pipe.

My float needle valves seem to be stuck or barely moving.  It doesn't move when I tap on it.  I've ordered a set of replacements.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on February 28, 2013, 09:59:17 AM
This reminds me of a Sunbeam a girlfriend had..................... :hammer:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 02, 2013, 09:07:42 PM
I swapped out the needle jets and seats today.  The old ones were a single piece.  Everything looks good, the floats spring up and down nicely, but I'm missing a manifold gasket since they didn't show up in the mail Friday unless I can find one at Auto Zone.  The weather is crap this weekend so I probably won't get anything else done tomorrow.

edit:  University Motors has a new video out today with different needle jets.  The one I removed from my car were Grosse jets.  I replaced them with Viton-tipped ones.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82YNx-RkGNI[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 02, 2013, 09:32:56 PM
I'm missing a manifold gasket since they didn't show up in the mail Friday unless I can find one at Auto Zone. 

Keep us updated on what you don't find for your B there.   :-)  :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 02, 2013, 09:35:05 PM
I just checked with NAPA.  They have them at their warehouse.  Shoulda checked with them earlier this week. :mad:

I requested them through their website.  Maybe I'll get lucky Sunday morning.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 02, 2013, 09:53:12 PM
I hope it explains why my carbs were adjusted out as far as possible.  The fuel mixture screws were all the way in and the floats were way off.  I think they were letting just enough fuel in to allow the engine to run.

I don't get it. The HIF is dirt-simple to work on... it's not like it's a Quadrajet.  The only tool you need is a screwdriver.

I came across some claims online that said the '73 HIF did not come with adjustable tangs on the float.  This one had them.  One of my floats *looks* like it has a crack in it, but I put it in a bowl of water and it worked fine.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 02, 2013, 10:02:48 PM
I seem to recall something about a bi-metallic strip inside the bowels of those.  Do you recall seeing anything like that in there?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 02, 2013, 10:09:56 PM
It's there.  The mixture screw pushes in it and out which raises and lowers the air needle guide (I think).  The bi-metallic strip is only there for temperature compensation.  I think because the mixture screw was all the way in against the strip was keeping it from flexing in cold temperatures.  It hinges on a spring and screw that holds it in to the carb body.

I probably should have taken pictures today.  It's an interesting piece of kit.  I may re-do it tomorrow to snap some photos.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 04, 2013, 07:13:26 PM
I took apart my HIF so I could get some pictures.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/hif1_zps1576305a.jpg)
Unmolested.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/hif2_zpsbf4bf754.jpg)
Suction chamber, damper rod and cap, and spring removed.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/hif3_zps5dfd8fa2.jpg)
Upside down.  Air piston with needle and bottom cover plate removed.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 04, 2013, 07:16:38 PM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/hif4_zps00dd16a3.jpg)
Jet adjusting lever, screw, and spring.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/hif6_zps51c4a3dd.jpg)
Jet removed.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/hif7_zpsf05766c0.jpg)
One shiny, new float needle jet and seat installed.

There's some other stuff down there, but I didn't get that far. :panic:

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 06, 2013, 01:48:25 PM
My gaskets finally showed up today.

As long as it took them, I could have made my own.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 09, 2013, 06:58:39 PM
Installed the carburetors, hooked everything back up, turned the key... nothing.  I missed a step when I put everything back together :censored:

I read section 2.3 (http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hif-type-carburetter-tuning-general) over and over again and every time, my brain said 'huh?' so I just ignored it.  After taking them off a second time, I finally looked inside the throat and saw the bridge it was referring to.

I guess I know what I'll be doing tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 10, 2013, 02:53:53 PM
There's a hole in the intake manifold.  Can you believe that shit?  I though that was just there to hold the choke cable.

I put the bolt back in the hole and the car runs fine.  I'll have to mess with it to get it tuned.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on March 10, 2013, 04:29:04 PM
There's a hole in the intake manifold.  Can you believe that shit?  I though that was just there to hold the choke cable.

I put the bolt back in the hole and the car runs fine.  I'll have to mess with it to get it tuned.

Um? A hole?  That takes a bolt?   In the intake manifold?  That does sound a bit strange.  But then, oh those Brits, the do like to keep ya guessing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 10, 2013, 06:06:40 PM
Yeah, the choke cable bracket is mounted to the intake manifold by a bolt.  The bolt hole isn't closed off... it's part of the intake port.  Without the bolt in place, the car won't start.  At least that's what I'm blaming it on. 

My next step is to replace the exhaust manifold and reconnect the choke and throttle cables.  Also, my heat shield is cracked (!) and the oil separator cover gasket is missing after I messed with it last week.  It's leaking oil all over my driveway without it.  I replaced my distributor cap and rotor as well.  The rotor I received from Mallory wouldn't fit without filing off some extra plastic, so I swapped the metal contact from the new rotor over to the old one.  Seems to work fine.

Both of my tail light covers are cracked too.  Looks like I'll be spending some money this week.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 11, 2013, 11:07:09 AM
Spending monay, woo woo.

I ordered replacement tail lights (matching ones) and a new gasket for less than $50.  The Pace header with the ceramic coating was $300 and another $30 for shipping.

http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/mg/MGEX2.htm
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on March 11, 2013, 05:05:26 PM
Spending monay, woo woo.

I ordered replacement tail lights (matching ones) and a new gasket for less than $50.  The Pace header with the ceramic coating was $300 and another $30 for shipping.

http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/mg/MGEX2.htm

I had a header on my '72 with an Abarth exhaust.  Had to sell the car when I moved to the country.  Frost heaves are just like speed bumps. :o
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 11, 2013, 07:16:39 PM
Crap.  Dey is out of stock on the ceramic-coated header. 

I had them switch my order with the basic steel header.  It should be here by Friday.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 12, 2013, 08:22:06 AM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/Discuss_zps8e6bcea2.jpg)
:rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on March 13, 2013, 08:19:49 AM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/Discuss_zps8e6bcea2.jpg)
:rofl:

Some days are like that, yeah, they are.  :hi5:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 14, 2013, 05:18:56 PM
Tail lights and new backup light covers arrived.  The replacement backup light covers are clear and have some plastichrome trim around the edges (the old ones are opaque white).

Pictures later.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 14, 2013, 09:03:47 PM
Interesting.  I see a couple of MGB's in the shipyard.

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ6wgLqwDYY[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 16, 2013, 02:22:58 PM
Got both rear light covers swapped out and removed the intake manifold.  I'm still not feeling so hot today, so I think that's all I'm going to do right now.

I was concerned about the difference in flange thickness between the new header and the factory intake manifold... it's about 1/16th of an inch, but I think that is why the rubber shims are there.  I'll be taking the cutting wheel to the old exhaust tomorrow after a few more doses of Nyquil later today.



edit:  Well, that didn't end well.  I got the old manifold off and thought I had the rest of the exhaust secured.  Nope.  Now I have to spend money on new hangers.  Also, the oil separator cover gasket I ordered was the wrong kind (I ordered the rubber one.  It's a different size and shape than the original cork gasket).

Still don't feel well, so I'm going to put this off until next weekend.

$50 bucks for new exhaust hangers and a cork gasket. :censored:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on March 19, 2013, 02:33:48 PM
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDCGygigzcU[/youtube]












Just had to.


 :tongue:



*this from a FORMER Fiat owner*    :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 21, 2013, 10:23:30 PM
You very bad man, very very bad.  :shame:

[youtube=640,480]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ1HqxmnXEo&feature=player_detailpage#t=1945s[/youtube]

Check out the size of that steering wheel.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 23, 2013, 06:43:18 PM
Progress... I wasted two hours driving around looking for a replacement for the 8x1.0mm nut I dropped and can no longer find.  Nobody had one.  Got the headers and carbs reinstalled, replaced the oil cover gasket and both front and rear exhaust hangers.  I had to call it quits because it started raining and probably won't stop until Monday. 

Next step is to rehang and seal the exhaust and go for a drive.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 30, 2013, 05:36:10 PM
I've got the hangers replaced and the new exhaust assembled, but it keeps raining here.  Rained all day yesterday and it's raining now.  This sucks.

I had to replace a section of pipe on the original exhaust.  The black pipe is the extension that goes to the new header and the steel pipe behind it is the replacement piece.  Right now, it's too long and I need to cut it down to the right size.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/exhaust2_zps94e6860d.jpg)

I had everything mounted earlier until I realized the replacement section was too long.  I was about to start measuring ("I've cut this twice and it's still too short.") when the rain started.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2013, 10:08:19 PM
Got the replacement header and the rest of the exhaust installed and  fired the car up this afternoon.

Not happy.

I had to patch in a new pipe and all of my clamps are leaking.  I don't know how tight I can clamp them down without mangling the original exhaust, but nearly every joint is leaking.  I think I'm going to have to buy an entirely new exhaust at some point.  It's working well enough as it is that I can put it off for later, maybe next year.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2013, 10:11:06 PM
Also, I was going to replace the other tail light cover and the screw broke.  I had to take the entire light assembly off the car.  I'm hoping I can drill out the broken screw with a small drill bit tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 07, 2013, 11:06:26 AM
Sure am glad I took these pictures, because I forgot how those cables were supposed to go back on.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/throttle_zpsbcc72a94.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 07, 2013, 12:45:47 PM
Sure am glad I took these pictures, because I forgot how those cables were supposed to go back on.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/throttle_zpsbcc72a94.jpg)

Is that bolt twisted into that hose on the balance tube the correct thread for that application?   :lmao: :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 07, 2013, 04:32:23 PM
Is that bolt twisted into that hose on the balance tube the correct thread for that application?   :lmao: :tongue:
It was like that when I bought it. :p

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/driveway_zps10569cce.jpg)

I don't think the gasket for the oil separator cover fits.  Oh well.  Off to Blackstone Brewery for some fish and chips.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 10, 2013, 07:58:30 PM
I desperately need to get this thing fixed.  It's squirrely around tight corners and feels like crap on the road after sitting for months.  No likey. :(

Ordered a full set of front suspension bushings from Moss.  Maybe they'll be here Friday.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/suspension_zps0a61f067.png)

I have a feeling I should have ordered new A-arms as well.  I think the kit (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020) I ordered comes with new kingpins.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on April 12, 2013, 02:16:56 PM
Dang, how much is that kit?   :o
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 12, 2013, 02:34:06 PM
It was $150 for the rubber bushings and assorted nuts, washers, and a new set of kingpins.  It was $300 and up for the polyurethane ones.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 13, 2013, 03:02:29 PM
Look at this filthy thing.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/FLHsuspension_sm_zps64187176.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 13, 2013, 03:40:14 PM
Look at this filthy thing.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/FLHsuspension_sm_zps64187176.jpg)

Wow.  There are supposed to be grease fittings in there.  I can't see any of them.   :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 13, 2013, 06:38:30 PM
The more I started taking apart, the dirtier it got.  After busting my knuckles on the bolts holding the rear wishbone arm to the spring pan, I had to break out the torch.  I should have done that an hour ago.  I did notice this car has a front swaybar installed.  I didn't know that was an option in 1973.

Aside from the dirt and the dried-out plastic pieces, everything looks good.  No elongated holes on the wishbone arms and the lever shocks seem to be working.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 13, 2013, 07:23:04 PM
It was really fun when the grease- and oil-soaked dirt caught fire and then started dripping on me as I was trying to unscrew the nut and bolt.

I found a few small rust holes in the frame rail.  Looks like I will have to have that patched.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 13, 2013, 07:38:40 PM
how bad are the rust holes?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 13, 2013, 08:25:09 PM
Not bad.  BB-sized.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 14, 2013, 02:25:57 PM
*grumble, grumble*

The nut holding the kingpin in the swivel axle won't budge.  It's supposed to come off but heating it up didn't do anything.  I'm soaking it in some homemade penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone-ATF).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on April 15, 2013, 08:37:14 AM
*grumble, grumble*

The nut holding the kingpin in the swivel axle won't budge.  It's supposed to come off but heating it up didn't do anything.  I'm soaking it in some homemade penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone-ATF).


More leverage
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/Eupher6/wrenches_zps073736a7.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 15, 2013, 10:23:07 AM
I tried that. :-)

I'm using a 1/2-inch drive with a 1-1/4 inch wrench for leverage.  It's the biggest wrench I own.

This is somewhat common knowledge in some places, but this is where I found the acetone/ATF mix -- it's the first I've heard of it.  I wonder if the guys at the Cummins garage down the street use it.
Quote
Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.  They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.  Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.  Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/897615-best-penetrating-oil-test-surprise-winner.html)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 15, 2013, 06:58:55 PM
I'm starting to think this is all a joke and the castle nut is part of the swivel axle and isn't supposed to come off.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on April 15, 2013, 09:09:56 PM
I'm starting to think this is all a joke and the castle nut is part of the swivel axle and isn't supposed to come off.

A silly question, but did you take the cotter pin out?  :whistling:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 15, 2013, 09:10:22 PM
Yes. :p

Honestly, it looks like it's cast as a single piece.  I'm going to try it from the other end tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on April 16, 2013, 09:29:57 AM
(http://cfnewsads.thomasnet.com/images/large/024/24472.jpg)



 :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 16, 2013, 09:33:35 AM
What the heck is that thing?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on April 16, 2013, 11:50:03 AM
What the heck is that thing?

A cutting torch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 16, 2013, 08:06:09 PM
I'm switching from the stuff I mixed up to some Liquid Wrench.  I don't think it's working.  I don't want to resort to a cutting wheel... I'll take it to JD's before I do that.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 20, 2013, 03:57:26 PM
Success!  I finally got the castle nut off the top of the kingpin.  I had to put it back on the car and use a four-foot breaker bar to crack the damn thing.

Now how the hell do I remove the trunion? :thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 20, 2013, 04:32:37 PM
Success!  I finally got the castle nut off the top of the kingpin.  I had to put it back on the car and use a four-foot breaker bar to crack the damn thing.

Now how the hell do I remove the trunion? :thatsright:

Chris, I've never messed with the trunnions on mine, but I do have this in my bookmarks-  probably for the post about cutting the groove for grease:

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?2,9654

You might want to take the guy's advice in the second to last post, and just cut them out. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 20, 2013, 05:08:01 PM
I got it.  I put the swivel axle in a vise and threaded the castle nut back on to the kingpin and beat it with a hammer until the kingpin slid out.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/swivelaxlekingpin_zps1a6edf0d.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/swivelaxlekingpin_zps1a6edf0d.jpg.html)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 21, 2013, 02:26:48 PM
Nice.   :whatever:

The new fulcrum pin (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020&SortOrder=1160#top) I got from Moss Motors, the one that holds the trunion to the lever shock, is supposed to have a hole drilled in it for a cotter pin.  The hole is only drilled out halfway.  Better check the other half of my kit and see if I can use that one.


edit:  just got off the phone with Moss.  They're shipping me a new pin tomorrow. :II:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 21, 2013, 02:32:24 PM
Nice.   :whatever:

The new fulcrum pin (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020&SortOrder=1160#top) I got from Moss Motors, the one that holds the trunion to the lever shock, is supposed to have a hole drilled in it for a cotter pin.  The hole is only drilled out halfway.  Better check the other half of my kit and see if I can use that one.

Easy fix, just use half a cotter pin.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 21, 2013, 02:59:53 PM
One new kingpin:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/newkingpin_zps3b44f9e1.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/newkingpin_zps3b44f9e1.jpg.html)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 23, 2013, 08:26:19 PM
This is frustrating.  I got both ends of the new axle installed with new bushings and realized I forgot to pull the swaybar link back into place... it was blocked by the steering arm I had just reconnected.  So, after getting that mess sorted out, I remembered that I was supposed to put the coil spring back in before replacing the wishbone arms and bushings.  Today was a complete waste of time... that's what I get for not paying attention.

I just want to go for a drive. :bawl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 26, 2013, 08:27:39 PM
Supposed to rain Saturday.  Looks like my new suspension has been delayed another week.  The good news, the replacement feels nice and tight.  I suppose this is a good thing... I dropped one of the nuts attached to a bolt on the lever shock and can't find it. 

I tried to find a suitable replacement at the hardware store and didn't have any luck.  I finally broke down and called NOS Parts who rebuilds them.  I got called out for losing it, but he did tell me replacement nuts and bolts are 3/8x24.  Ain't my fault my driveway is the same color as 40-year-old nuts and screws.  Besides, those things bounce when you drop them. :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on April 27, 2013, 01:58:27 PM
Supposed to rain Saturday.  Looks like my new suspension has been delayed another week.  The good news, the replacement feels nice and tight.  I suppose this is a good thing... I dropped one of the nuts attached to a bolt on the lever shock and can't find it. 

I tried to find a suitable replacement at the hardware store and didn't have any luck.  I finally broke down and called NOS Parts who rebuilds them.  I got called out for losing it, but he did tell me replacement nuts and bolts are 3/8x24.  Ain't my fault my driveway is the same color as 40-year-old nuts and screws.  Besides, those things bounce when you drop them. :-)

Magnet fishing is my favorite sport.  I almost bought one of the ones the roofers use a few years back but I generally just use one of the extension type or tie a string on one I found years ago and drag it around.  I even went so far as to use a blue tarp on one job I did in the back yard.  

We have had beautiful weather today so I replace all three belts on the lawn tractor along with the blade.  Ended up by putting on a smoke show as soon as I engaged the blade.  Opps, the belt runs insidethe keeper.  :thatsright:  Damn belts are expensive, close to $100 for the three of them.  

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 28, 2013, 05:44:48 PM
Success!

Finally got everything reassembled.  That coil spring was a pain the ass, but I got it back on.  Now I just need to torque everything correctly and put the brake caliber and hub back on.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on April 29, 2013, 05:03:59 PM
What's a brake caliber?









or is that Brit-speak?


 :fuelfire:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 29, 2013, 05:04:58 PM
It's the Queen's English.

She doesn't know jack about cars.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on April 29, 2013, 05:20:51 PM
It's the Queen's English.

She doesn't know jack about cars.

Speaking of British jacks.  I had wire knock offs also had the factory jack and a brass hammer in the kit in the boot.  Ex-wife had a flat and a nice gentleman stopped to help her.  He used his bumper jack to jack the car!!!!!!  Beat on the spinner with the tire iron.  Damage was extensive & Grounds for divorce in all sixty states. :hammer:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 29, 2013, 05:25:18 PM
:runaway:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 30, 2013, 08:49:47 PM
Does anyone have any experience with Naval Jelly?  My rotors look pretty bad with surface rust so I picked up a jar. 

I'll take some pictures later.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on April 30, 2013, 08:54:07 PM
Does anyone have any experience with Naval Jelly?  My rotors look pretty bad with surface rust so I picked up a jar. 

I'll take some pictures later.

Nope, but ask about navel lint and you might find some help on here.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 30, 2013, 09:37:51 PM
Does anyone have any experience with Naval Jelly?  My rotors look pretty bad with surface rust so I picked up a jar. 

I'll take some pictures later.

Yes.  I use naval jelly and muratic acid for rust removal.

Are they rusted on the machined surface, or are you just going for a general rotor cleanup? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 30, 2013, 10:03:30 PM
It's on the machined surface.  It was like that when I pulled them off.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 30, 2013, 10:19:55 PM
It's on the machined surface.  It was like that when I pulled them off.

If they are rusted to the point of any pitting on the machined surface where the pads ride, I would get rid of them.  Anything else, I would lightly clean up with some sandpaper and brake cleaner. 

If you're talking about cleaning up the non-machined surfaces, you'll have to coat them with something after you clean them with anything, otherwise they'll get that 'rusty' look again really fast. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 30, 2013, 10:27:52 PM
No, there's no pitting.  I will try some brake cleaner and a scrub pad.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 01, 2013, 09:09:54 AM
Free candy.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/invoice_zps4439eef9.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/invoice_zps4439eef9.jpg.html)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 05, 2013, 07:34:20 PM
 :yahoo: Success.  I only got one wheel done, but it's a big improvement.  The other wheel is still erratic and shaky but driveable.

I think I may have FUBAR'd my choke cable.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 05, 2013, 09:11:35 PM
:yahoo: Success.  I only got one wheel done, but it's a big improvement.  The other wheel is still erratic and shaky but driveable.

I think I may have FUBAR'd my choke cable.

Did you put a bind in the cable? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 05, 2013, 09:37:17 PM
I think it started to unwind after I disconnected it.  Now it's all bunched up inside the sheath.  I'll have to yank it out and pick up a replacement cable from the bicycle shop down the street.

I'm considering upgrading my brake lights to LEDs.  I don't feel that the 1157 incandescent is very visible during the day, at least not with some of the brake-checks I get from the cars behind me.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 05, 2013, 10:47:13 PM
I think it started to unwind after I disconnected it.  Now it's all bunched up inside the sheath.  I'll have to yank it out and pick up a replacement cable from the bicycle shop down the street.

I'm considering upgrading my brake lights to LEDs.  I don't feel that the 1157 incandescent is very visible during the day, at least not with some of the brake-checks I get from the cars behind me.

I never drive my B without the lights on, and half the cars on the road still try to run me over. 

In your case, I don't see how they can miss a yellow car, regardless of size.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 05, 2013, 10:56:09 PM
I love this neighborhood.  The main street intersects with another highway that turns off to a twisty side road that turns back on to the main street.  It's like a personal race track.  I had the same thing in my last neighborhood.  It's enough to get you car up to temperature and wring out any problems.

Supposed to rain Monday, but I think I can drive it for the rest of the week.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: txradioguy on May 06, 2013, 01:21:16 PM
I love this neighborhood.  The main street intersects with another highway that turns off to a twisty side road that turns back on to the main street.  It's like a personal race track.  I had the same thing in my last neighborhood.  It's enough to get you car up to temperature and wring out any problems.

Supposed to rain Monday, but I think I can drive it for the rest of the week.

Chris I can tell you that the roads I take to work...are made for driving a car like yours...with the top down of course.  It was a beautiful day for it here today...70 light breeze and sunshine.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 06, 2013, 03:19:32 PM
It's supposed to be sunny for the rest of the week.  I don't care if one wheel shakes like a bad shopping cart, I'm going for a drive.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on May 06, 2013, 03:58:51 PM
It's supposed to be sunny for the rest of the week.  I don't care if one wheel shakes like a bad shopping cart, I'm going for a drive.

Did you have to get a wheel alignment after the surgery?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 06, 2013, 04:01:45 PM
No.  I didn't change any steering components, only suspension parts.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: A7X_foREVer on May 06, 2013, 09:52:38 PM
I am green with envy over your car
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 07, 2013, 06:59:21 PM
I picked up some red 1157 LED bulbs at the store yesterday.  It looks pretty good.

LED is on the left, incandescent is on the right.  This is what it looks like in bright sunlight... you almost can't see the other one.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/1157LED2_zps4219b85a.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/1157LED2_zps4219b85a.jpg.html)

Brake check
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/1157LED1_zps969f91cc.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/1157LED1_zps969f91cc.jpg.html)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 07, 2013, 08:03:11 PM
I like your pre-epa nazi gas can.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 07, 2013, 09:15:06 PM
I got a good laugh by going to the bicycle store to buy a new cable for my clutch (six bucks and some change).  They asked me what it for was for, so I told them.  The silence was golden.  It was almost as good as the kid at NAPA.  :rofl:

I yanked out the old choke cable.  It was all unwound (I guess the term is 'spalled').

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQIRaHBfps8[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 08, 2013, 10:06:27 PM
That was... interesting.  I cleaned the brake rotor with Brakleen on the left side after reassembling that suspension/wheel hub and now the car definitely pulls to that side when I press on the brakes above 50mph.  It's a little concerning but cleaning the other side should take care of it.  Other than that, everything seems to be okay.  I need to check the new nuts and bolts I used to make sure they're tight.  I thought I felt a wobble at some point earlier today.

I've found that SAE 32-threads-per-inch seems to be the closest thing to British Fine Standard.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 11, 2013, 02:14:18 PM
Foiled again.  The steering arm bolts won't come loose. 

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_image1_zps6c2af19d.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/image1_zps6c2af19d.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_image2_zpsf1011726.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/image2_zpsf1011726.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_image3_zpsb9e370b1.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/image3_zpsb9e370b1.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_image4_zpsd863b45b.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/image4_zpsd863b45b.png)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 11, 2013, 06:21:49 PM
Got it.  Here are the rest of the steps to remove the kingpin/swivel axle assembly.

Loosen kingpin castle nut (soak it for a few days in Liquid Wrench and use a long breaker bar)
Disconnect the two steering arm bolts and move the steering arm away from the swivel axle
Jack up the spring pan to remove the tension from the spring.  Remove the lower trunion pin and bolt.  Lower the jack.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/0disconnectsteeringarmfromswivelaxle_zps78941a2b.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/0disconnectsteeringarmfromswivelaxle_zps78941a2b.png)

Remove the upper trunion pin and bolt
Remove the kingpin/swivel axle assembly

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/1removeuppertrunionpinandbolt_zpsc6227367.png) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/1removeuppertrunionpinandbolt_zpsc6227367.png)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2013, 02:09:52 PM
Still no luck getting the kingpin pressed out of the axle housing.  I called five different shops including the local MG garage and none of them would do it.  The last one I called referred me to a place on 5th Avenue, so I dropped it off there.  I'll follow up with them tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2013, 05:16:08 PM
Those jack stands you have always make me nervous when I ever use them.  I always second guess myself on if they are locked in or not. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2013, 06:23:27 PM
I got them at Harbor Freight.  Everything at that store is fresh off the boat from China, but I haven't had any issues with the jack stands.  I was scared to death of it at first, but I pushed and shoved another car trying to get it to fall off the jacks and they seem to work fine.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on May 16, 2013, 07:17:51 PM
Those jack stands you have always make me nervous when I ever use them.  I always second guess myself on if they are locked in or not. 

I have a pair like that but I rarely use them.  I use the set that has a pin that goes all the way through.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 16, 2013, 07:41:25 PM
I have a pair like that but I rarely use them.  I use the set that has a pin that goes all the way through.

Yeah, that's what I have, too.  I can glance at them, and know they're good. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 16, 2013, 09:27:39 PM
The support is all the way down against the body.  It's not going anywhere.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 17, 2013, 12:58:38 PM
The machine shop got the old kingpin out. :yahoo:

Now I can put the other half of my suspension back together.


Wow!  They didn't even charge me for doing that.  I like that kind of service.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on May 17, 2013, 03:03:07 PM
The machine shop got the old kingpin out. :yahoo:

Now I can put the other half of my suspension back together.


Wow!  They didn't even charge me for doing that.  I like that kind of service.

Nothing like a nice hydraulic press and a proper support structure.  We had a nice one at NAPA for pressing bearing and such.  That said, without proper support things can go wrong muy fast.  Once upon a time I pressed an alignment pin into a reamed blind hole with no relief for the air to escape. I turned around and heard what sounded like a shotgun blast as the pin exited at a rather high velocity. It would not have ended well had I had still been bending over it.  I ever made that mistake again.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 18, 2013, 08:19:12 PM
Well, this kind of sucks.  I got everything put back together and the top of the kingpin won't line up with the top of the shock.  I wonder if I bent something.

edit: I remember what I did.  This time, I put the bottom end of the axle/kingpin in first.  Last time, I put the top end in first and was able to slide the bottom part into place.  Looks like I'll have to undo the whole thing again.


Whew!  I got it.  I had to take one of the wishbones off and reposition it.

I don't think I could do this for a living.  I hurt all over.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on May 19, 2013, 04:21:47 PM
Well, this kind of sucks.  I got everything put back together and the top of the kingpin won't line up with the top of the shock.  I wonder if I bent something.


edit: I remember what I did.  This time, I put the bottom end of the axle/kingpin in first.  Last time, I put the top end in first and was able to slide the bottom part into place.  Looks like I'll have to undo the whole thing again.



This is what I'm talking about when I say "learning curve."  :banghead: You can have experience doing the same sort of maintenance on something else, but there's always a little twist on the process that makes you have to start all over.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 19, 2013, 04:28:13 PM
I had to remove one of the lower A-arms/wishbones and reposition it to get everything to line up.  I am done for now.

Now I just have to put in new grease fittings, lube everything, and put the brake caliper and wheel hub back on.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 19, 2013, 09:24:51 PM
Success. 

Boy, this thing handles like a top.  The difference is amazing. 

One small problem, there is a faint rubbing noise coming from the corner I put back together today.  It doesn't sound like a wheel bearing but it does sound like a small piece of metal rubbing against another.  I'll have to take the wheel off to find out.  The sound stayed constant but got louder the faster I drove. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 20, 2013, 05:16:09 PM
I think I may have found the problem.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/camber_zpscb82c773.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/camber_zpscb82c773.jpg.html)

:thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 20, 2013, 05:21:01 PM
I think I may have found the problem.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/camber_zpscb82c773.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/camber_zpscb82c773.jpg.html)

:thatsright:

Did you forget to tighten the lugs?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 20, 2013, 05:23:56 PM
No, I think I may have installed something incorrectly.  I'll have to take both front wheels off to find out where I screwed up.

It's either the trunion (backward) or the spindle axle (upside down).  Here (http://www.conservativecave.com/index.php/topic,75048.msg1072007.html#msg1072007) is the other side.  I had a very hard time getting that top bolt back through the trunion, so that may be it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 25, 2013, 02:26:31 PM
Wow, I really screwed up on that one.  I put the trunion on backward (the rounded side faces outward). 

I've got everything reassembled and lined up.  I'm taking a break before putting the final nuts and bolts on.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on May 25, 2013, 10:33:09 PM
Wow, I really screwed up on that one.  I put the trunion on backward (the rounded side faces outward). 

I've got everything reassembled and lined up.  I'm taking a break before putting the final nuts and bolts on.

Main thing is, you got er' did.  :cheersmate:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 25, 2013, 11:36:29 PM
Fix one problem, another one crops up.  My steering is loosey goosey... I may need new tie-rods.  Good thing they're cheap.

Think I'll check out the steering box first.  My dust covers are trashed.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 27, 2013, 09:04:02 PM
Found the problem.  The wheel on that corner is not balanced right. 

Since I replaced all the major suspension components, I can feel every part of the road surface.  It's a little unnerving.  Ripples, cracks, even the road surface itself.  I found a piece of newly-paved road -- nice and smooth.  The rest of the road sends miniscule vibrations and bumps through the steering wheel.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 29, 2013, 08:42:27 PM
My headlights stopped working. :whatever:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 29, 2013, 09:27:51 PM
My headlights stopped working. :whatever:

Toggle your light switch back and forth as fast as you can.  They should start working again. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 29, 2013, 09:30:45 PM
Tried that.  No luck.

They worked with the engine off.  Once I started it, they went out again.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on May 29, 2013, 09:34:11 PM
Tried that.  No luck.

They worked with the engine off.  Once I started it, they went out again.

Will the car start with the lights off?

Did you ever get around to cleaning your grounds?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 29, 2013, 09:35:09 PM
It looks like the ground wire in the trunk is supposed to be held on with a nut.  There's no nut there.  I haven't checked the front of the car yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 01, 2013, 01:14:31 PM
It looks like the ground wire in the trunk is supposed to be held on with a nut.  There's no nut there.  I haven't checked the front of the car yet.

Those grounds are all over the car!  I think there is something like 20 or so, if you count the light grounds, the ones under the dash, etc. 


I've been scratching my head the last day, trying to figure out what might be going on with your lights on the car.  I remembered I had a similar problem (car would not start with lights OFF). 

Do you know that big bundle of wires that sits behind the fuse box, and in front of the firewall?  The one with all the bullet connectors, and might have a couple of in-line fuses (if someone didn't mess with your harness)?  Check those connectors, and make sure they are all seated really good.  I think there are a few that run down to the starter from that bundle, too.  I would pull them all apart, and twist them to make sure they are seated really good. 

They make a special little brush to clean those male and female ends of those connectors.  I need to get one, or see if I can find a Dremel brush that will work.


Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 02, 2013, 12:41:30 PM
Huh.  They're working now. :???:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 02, 2013, 12:56:06 PM
Huh.  They're working now. :???:

That's how my starting issue I had with the lights having to be on started.  It was intermittent; sometimes it would start without the lights on, then I had to have them on, then even having the lights on wouldn't cause it to start. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 02, 2013, 12:58:42 PM
Is it still doing it?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 02, 2013, 07:01:38 PM
Hm, much improved.  I was using the tire pressure listed for radial tires... it was too low (27 front, 32 rear).  I bumped it up to 34 front and 36 rear (cold).  Very nice.

I stopped and looked at an MG T that a local car dealer had for sale.  No price listed, but it looked nice.  It was sitting next to an AMC Marlin and a Mercedes 560 SEL.  I was accosted by some dude walking down the street that started telling me these bullshit stories about his high school glory days. 
:lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 02, 2013, 11:28:29 PM
Is it still doing it?

Nope.  All my woes ceased after I spent an afternoon hunting down every wire connector or ground on the car, and cleaning them up (the best I could without the special little bullet connector brush tool).

I was accosted by some dude walking down the street that started telling me these bullshit stories about his high school glory days. 
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/rico_zps9bf6b2d3.jpeg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 08:56:04 AM
"My high school held 53-mile marathons.  They wouldn't let me enter 'cause they knew I would win, so I ran the whole race backward and still beat everybody."  :mental: :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on June 03, 2013, 01:18:10 PM
Hm, much improved.  I was using the tire pressure listed for radial tires... it was too low (27 front, 32 rear).  I bumped it up to 34 front and 36 rear (cold).  Very nice.

I stopped and looked at an MG T that a local car dealer had for sale.  No price listed, but it looked nice.  It was sitting next to an AMC Marlin and a Mercedes 560 SEL.  I was accosted by some dude walking down the street that started telling me these bullshit stories about his high school glory days. 
:lmao:

I always wanted a TD, TC, or TF, and I would stop anytime I saw one.  One day I stopped to look at one that a guy had stuffed a 327 Chevy in.  What a mess, literally still sends shivers down my spine thinking about that poor, mangled frame.   :argh:

And in other unrelated news, I saw an Auburn the other day out driving around.  It had this style rear end but with a much better paint job:

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cc/Auburn_852_Speedster_2.JPG/180px-Auburn_852_Speedster_2.JPG)

I would love to have had a better look at it but it was going the other way and I had things to do.



 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on June 03, 2013, 01:54:35 PM
I could have bought a Bug Eye Sprite with a Chevy in-line six and 3 speed stick in it. I  said no, even though it was only $200.

It was a mangled mess.   :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 01:56:59 PM
I could have bought a Bug Eye Sprite with a Chevy in-line six and 3 speed stick in it. I  said no, even though it was only $200.

It was a mangled mess.   :p
Half of me wants this car... the other half wants to run away screaming. 

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3790498099.html

Check out that glove compartment.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on June 03, 2013, 03:34:35 PM
 :overreaction:
Half of me wants this car... the other half wants to run away screaming. 

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3790498099.html

Check out that glove compartment.


 Oh Dear God,  :overreaction:

A wise man once said, "Not everything that can be done should."

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on June 03, 2013, 04:18:01 PM
Hell, the drive train is almost worth it. Almost.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 04:22:23 PM
Hell, the drive train is almost worth it. Almost.
Depends.  I live in a smog-controlled county that uses EPA/CARB rules for engine swaps.  If they removed all the original Chevrolet emissions parts, used a pre-1982 SBC, or a truck motor, forget it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 03, 2013, 04:29:14 PM
:overreaction:

 Oh Dear God,  :overreaction:

A wise man once said, "Not everything that can be done should."

Seconded.

Chris, you need to post that up on one of Hooniverse's 'Found on Craigslist' threads.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 03, 2013, 04:49:53 PM
Your electrical gremlin paid me a visit last night.  I spent almost five hours tracing down why the driver's rear brake light was not functioning on my 71 Dodge D100. 

I've exorcised him, so he's probably on his way back over to your house now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 05:00:47 PM
Much appreciated.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 08:28:26 PM
I think I've found the source of my headlight problem.  It may be the headlight switch/stalk.  I can flash the brights and it will spring back into the correct position and the lights come back on.  That was the same problem that manifested itself before that switch stopped working when I replaced it last year. 

Guess we'll see.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 08:46:19 PM
Oh my.  That's quite an interesting shifter you got there.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3828832864.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 03, 2013, 09:20:51 PM
Oh my.  That's quite an interesting shifter you got there.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3828832864.html


Wow.  At first, I thought you were being sarcastic, because I didn't see a shifter.  I just wasn't looking in the wrong place. 

At least he put in a Buick 455, instead of a Chevy Olds Pontiac lump.  The Buick 455 is my favorite of the B-O-P lot.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 03, 2013, 11:21:47 PM
Think I found another problem.  I may have over-tightened my suspension bolts which would account for the harsh bumpy ride.  I'll need to retorque them.

I don't own a torque wrench.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 04, 2013, 12:25:21 AM
Beam type torque wrenches are cheap and they work close enough for what you're doing.  I'd pick one of those up. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on June 04, 2013, 09:41:24 AM
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on June 04, 2013, 10:14:50 AM

Wow.  At first, I thought you were being sarcastic, because I didn't see a shifter.  I just wasn't looking in the wrong place. 

At least he put in a Buick 455, instead of a Chevy Olds Pontiac lump.  The Buick 455 is my favorite of the B-O-P lot.   

Why the Buick?

I kinda favored the Olds 455 myself....
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 04, 2013, 05:40:13 PM
Why the Buick?

I kinda favored the Olds 455 myself....

The Buick 455 is lighter than either the Olds or Pontiac variant, weighing in only a few pounds more than a Chevrolet 350.  The Buick also had the shortest stroke of the three. 

If we're talking Oldsmobile, I'd take a Rocket 425 over the 455.   :-) 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 04, 2013, 07:52:06 PM
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.html
Got it.  It was on sale... I didn't have to pay any sales tax.

It was nearly the last one on the shelf.  I almost didn't get it.  I had enough left over to buy a new set of 1/2-inch SAE sockets (you can never have too many).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 04, 2013, 09:15:10 PM
That MG T is gone.  It didn't last long, maybe a week.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on June 05, 2013, 12:15:22 PM
The Buick 455 is lighter than either the Olds or Pontiac variant, weighing in only a few pounds more than a Chevrolet 350.  The Buick also had the shortest stroke of the three. 

If we're talking Oldsmobile, I'd take a Rocket 425 over the 455.   :-) 

Interesting. I was just reading that the Buick weighs 40 lbs. less than the Olds. Both, according to at least one person, have oiling problems.

Another source says that the Buick has the distributor up front, versus the Olds. Oh, well.

Back to your MG discussion.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 05, 2013, 04:27:06 PM
Interesting. I was just reading that the Buick weighs 40 lbs. less than the Olds. Both, according to at least one person, have oiling problems.

Another source says that the Buick has the distributor up front, versus the Olds. Oh, well.

Back to your MG discussion.  :-)

Yeah, the Buick has oil starvation issues.  I'm not sure what the Olds issue was; however, in the Toronado I had with the 425, I did not experience any oiling issues. 

On the 425 I had, the dizzy was in the back standing straight up, while in the 455, it was in the front, lower, and leaning off to one side.
 

I was going to put the 455 into a 65 Skylark coupe.  I even managed to track down some original Stage 1 heads (from Montana) that I sold with the car.  I sold that one to have enough room to keep the 66 Toronado.  I then sold the Toronado about a year later. 

I really, really, miss both of them (especially the Skylark, and would love to have just one of them back.:thatsright: 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 05, 2013, 04:29:27 PM
That MG T is gone.  It didn't last long, maybe a week.

I went to go pick up a bunch of MG parts one time in OKC with my brother.  When we got down there, the guy had a bunch of cars in various states that he was also selling.  He had a T there.  I never liked them before, but then I saw one in person.  Mistake! 

I almost left there with a Morris Minor estate that he had for sale. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 05, 2013, 04:36:55 PM
The Marlin is still there.  It has an excellent paint job, but it's so fugly (and large).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 05, 2013, 04:40:21 PM
The Marlin is still there.  It has an excellent paint job, but it's so fugly (and large).

I love Marlins.  What color is it?  Is it online anywhere?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 05, 2013, 04:47:14 PM
I think it was a metallic aqua color.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: CG6468 on June 07, 2013, 09:29:20 AM
I went to go pick up a bunch of MG parts one time in OKC with my brother.  When we got down there, the guy had a bunch of cars in various states that he was also selling.  He had a T there.  I never liked them before, but then I saw one in person.  Mistake! 

I almost left there with a Morris Minor estate that he had for sale. 

Way back when I worked at a Rexall Drug Store when I was in high school, I drove a Morris Minor as a delivery car for prescriptions. What a piece of shit that was.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 09, 2013, 12:18:37 AM
I retorqued the wishbone bolts to the correct 28 ft/lbs, put in new cotter pins, and lubed all the grease fittings on the left side today.  That seems to have calmed down the herky-jerkyness on that side.  I will do the other one tomorrow. 

I'm going to make plans to visit the seller in Staunton next weekend. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 01, 2013, 08:20:29 PM
Drove the MG to work today.  Definitely need new shocks, but it ran great otherwise. :II:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: biersmythe on July 01, 2013, 09:12:20 PM
Why the Buick?

I kinda favored the Olds 455 myself....

I like the Pontiac power plants myself. Well and the cars to go with them of course.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on July 02, 2013, 02:15:33 PM
Drove the MG to work today.  Definitely need new shocks, but it ran great otherwise. :II:


Nice, no parts falling off is a good thing.   

 :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 02, 2013, 09:48:02 PM
I wiped down the interior with baby oil to get rid of the pollen and dust buildup.  Wow!  What a difference.  My dashboard is all kinds of shiny.  It still has a giant damn hole in it and adhesive residue from that stupid dash cap.  I may have to wind up buying an entirely new dashboard.


edit: the Marlin is still for sale.  Sure you don't want it?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 09, 2013, 05:54:18 PM
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/4166690569.html

Oh dear.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on November 09, 2013, 06:52:09 PM
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/4166690569.html

Oh dear.

Ok, I don't use this word lightly, but WHAT THE ****??? 

TELL me you sent that to Hooniverse!!
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on November 09, 2013, 07:14:30 PM
Ok, I don't use this word lightly, but WHAT THE ****??? 

TELL me you sent that to Hooniverse!!


Yeah, the WTF?!? was definitely appropriate.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 09, 2013, 07:23:18 PM
Ok, I don't use this word lightly, but WHAT THE ****??? 

TELL me you sent that to Hooniverse!!
I didn't, but they've probably already seen it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 02, 2013, 10:01:57 PM
:II:
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-bXj0aYTQg[/youtube]

My B needs a new set of wheel bearings.  I think I ****ed them up after taking the hubs apart.  I've got some bad wheel shake above 55 mph.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 03, 2013, 12:16:46 AM
:II:
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-bXj0aYTQg[/youtube]

My B needs a new set of wheel bearings.  I think I ****ed them up after taking the hubs apart.  I've got some bad wheel shake above 55 mph.


Does it go away at 90+?   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 15, 2013, 01:27:29 PM
I haven't had the B out of the garage for almost a month.  The battery was pretty flat, and I have it on a charger.  The battery was a freebie that I got off of someone else last year, and it was only 3 months old at the time.  This is why I don't buy Walmart batteries for myself.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 21, 2013, 02:34:56 PM
Merry Christmas from my B to yours. 

(http://imageshack.com/a/img202/1691/82wr.jpg)

I think it looks sort of like a demented green nightmare of a reindeer with the red nose of a drunk.  At least people can see me when I'm beside them now- or at least my antlers.

That's also ice you see.  At least it didn't stick to the roads.
 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 21, 2013, 05:21:05 PM
That would make an interesting Christmas card.  Just the right amount of funk.

Merry Christmas. :)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on December 21, 2013, 05:59:00 PM
Merry Christmas from my B to yours. 

(http://imageshack.com/a/img202/1691/82wr.jpg)

I think it looks sort of like a demented green nightmare of a reindeer with the red nose of a drunk.  At least people can see me when I'm beside them now- or at least my antlers.

That's also ice you see.  At least it didn't stick to the roads.
 

I've seen the antlers and nose on a couple of cars around here this year.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BlueStateSaint on December 21, 2013, 06:12:03 PM
I've seen the antlers and nose on a couple of cars around here this year.

So have I.  Makes me wish I'd seen them in the woods about six weeks ago . . . :killemall:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on December 22, 2013, 02:52:07 PM
Just found this.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 22, 2013, 03:14:08 PM
Just found this.


My wife thought they would look good on the B, and so she got them for me.  I don't think they look right on new cars, but I had seen them on a couple of old cars and so I went with her request. 

The clips that hold the antlers on look like they would be brutal on door and window seals.  The B doesn't have window seals, which becomes quiet evident when you are driving around in the winter.  Even if the clips could somehow damage the convertible top, I need a new one anyways, so it's just another excuse to bump it up higher on the priority list.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on January 12, 2014, 11:16:14 PM
I pulled the cable tonight.  I left the outer sheath in place, and undid both ends.  I forgot how bad access was behind the dash to undo the speedometer end.  I didn't see any spots where it appeared to be binding, and it seemed to still have a nice coating of grease from when I did the job a few years back, but I'm going to clean it up again, and maybe squirt some lube into the angle drive, and see what happens.

If that doesn't work, I'm going to use that link on dismantling the speedometer housing, and put some lube on the spots that need it, and see if that helps. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 31, 2014, 04:37:47 PM
This is awesome. :rofl:

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Aw7IdW4Qxcc[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: biersmythe on January 31, 2014, 10:22:01 PM
LOL he could have used the CORRECT tool like a dial bore gauge with an extended tip and mag base.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 31, 2014, 10:46:23 PM
LOL he could have used the CORRECT tool like a dial bore gauge with an extended tip and mag base.
A who and a what?

I'm still trying to find the correct TDC on my Ford that has no timing marks. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 01, 2014, 11:55:43 AM
LOL he could have used the CORRECT tool like a dial bore gauge with an extended tip and mag base.

Are you suggesting that Mr. Twist futz around with a metal object in an area located directly behind the alternator?!?

You're just begging to let all of the smoke out of the electrical system!!  :hammer: :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 01, 2014, 01:05:01 PM
A dial bore gauge would be applicable if the head were removed.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 01, 2014, 02:44:07 PM
How do I find TDC?  I just pop the engine out and measure it with the Zeiss CMM at work.   :popcorn:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: biersmythe on February 03, 2014, 09:21:41 PM
A dial bore gauge would be applicable if the head were removed.

With a mag base you can use an extended tip on the Dial bore gauge with the head on if you don't have wedge heads. I don't think the mg has a wedge chamber. I have used them before on several engines. I will be using one on the VW next time I have to time the fuel pump. The flywheel that I replaced when I redid the clutch was bigger ( I put a larger flywheel/clutch off a different vehicle ). all I will have to do is remove the injector, oh and its behind the alt as well. O-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 04, 2014, 08:09:58 PM
Y'all suck. :)

I found instructions for a DIY manometer.  We'll see if it works or if it just dumps all the oil into the cylinder.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on February 05, 2014, 10:02:52 AM
This is awesome. :rofl:

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Aw7IdW4Qxcc[/youtube]

I'm going to ask a stupid question.

Is TDC considered the same, whether the piston is at the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke? If it's not the same, how do you tell the difference? Seems to me if you can't tell the difference, you could be 180 deg. off....

But, WTF do I know? I'm an f'n horn honker....  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2014, 02:12:57 PM
TDC on the exhaust stroke is 180 degrees off from the compression stroke.  Your engine would never start.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on February 05, 2014, 02:42:47 PM
I keep seeing a blocked plug in on Chris's post.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2014, 02:48:30 PM
Check for a Flash Player update for your computer.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on February 05, 2014, 05:19:45 PM
TDC on the exhaust stroke is 180 degrees off from the compression stroke.  Your engine would never start.

Uh, I get the "your engine would never start" thing, but I think your geometry is off.  :shrug:

In a 4-cycle engine, the piston is going to be TDC twice during one cycle. Once on the exhaust stroke and once on the compression/firing stroke. In that sense, you wouldn't be 180 degrees "off" you'd be 360 degrees "off," right? You need two complete 360 degree rotations to complete one cycle.

Cycle 1 - firing/downstroke
Cycle 2 - exhaust valve opens, piston moves upstroke
Cycle 3 - intake valve opens, piston moves downstroke, filling chamber with fuel mixture
Cycle 4 - piston moves upstroke, compressing the mixture

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 05, 2014, 07:43:46 PM
Okay, yes, my maff was wrong.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2014, 11:48:37 AM
Did you get your new Moss catalog?  15% off!*

*if you buy $1000 or more

I'm going to have to replace the entire exhaust.  The header I bought just doesn't cut it... it's noisy and it leaks.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 23, 2014, 03:42:25 PM
Did you get your new Moss catalog?  15% off!*

*if you buy $1000 or more

I'm going to have to replace the entire exhaust.  The header I bought just doesn't cut it... it's noisy and it leaks.

I always got any new parts I needed from Moss through Chris Roop.  He's 15% off list all the time, except for big things like superchargers and the like:

http://www.roopsmg.com/index.htm

The site isn't much to look at, but I've never had any problems when I deal with him.

This MG came with the Peco exhaust installed.  The previous MG I owned, I purchased the Peco kit for it, and was pleased.


Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2014, 08:48:04 PM
That's the one I need, but I don't see it on his site. :(

My bill is up to $700 for parts.  I went ahead and ordered a replacement vinyl dash cover.  The old one looked pretty nice until the adhesive came off (I never noticed it was there until it started rattling).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2014, 08:52:22 PM
Car for sale.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/cfs_745MGBT_zps9523ab29.jpg)
http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4303258713.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 23, 2014, 11:47:18 PM
Comedians In Cars Getting Coffee: 1966 MG B (http://www.comediansincarsgettingcoffee.com/todd-barry-so-youre-mellow-and-tense)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 24, 2014, 08:10:34 AM
I wish the GT were a chrome bumper.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 24, 2014, 10:45:31 AM
The bumper conversion isn't very difficult if you can weld (I can't).  Cut a little here, weld a little there, reposition your indicator lights (more cutting and welding), and install the chrome bumper and hardware. 

There's the whole ride height issue, but I don't think that was done until 1975.  This one might have been spared.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 24, 2014, 12:43:14 PM
The bumper conversion isn't very difficult if you can weld (I can't).  Cut a little here, weld a little there, reposition your indicator lights (more cutting and welding), and install the chrome bumper and hardware. 

There's the whole ride height issue, but I don't think that was done until 1975.  This one might have been spared.

Yeah, I did the conversion on my first B, at least most of it.  Somebody was kind enough to total it for me before I finished the job. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 24, 2014, 12:45:42 PM
Yeah, I did the conversion on my first B, at least most of it.  Somebody was kind enough to total it for me before I finished the job. 
Could be worse.  You could have Leepu buy a GT with your money and cut the roof off to make a convertible.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on February 24, 2014, 12:53:56 PM
Could be worse.  You could have Leepu buy a GT with your money and cut the roof off to make a convertible.

I had to nadin that to get the context of what you're talking about.  Oh my gosh.   :thatsright:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on February 25, 2014, 02:21:44 PM
Finished my shopping, about $500 plus shipping after my discount.

125-840 BEARING KIT, FRONT (2)
453-895 DASHTOP REPAIR PANEL
459-085 EXHAUST SYSTEM

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkY8mq5sFIU[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 02, 2014, 06:27:19 PM
I think my battery froze at some point.  I'm getting a fluctuating voltage reading from the battery but I turn the key and the car is dead.  Also, the clutch slave cylinder has completely failed and will need to be rebuilt or replaced before I can drive the car.  I got the exhaust and carburetors removed before it got dark.  I still have to remove the intake manifold and the header before I can install the new exhaust.

One of the other storage unit renters has a beautiful '68 BMW motorcycle.  It was so nice.  Oh, and he had a Harley (meh).



 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 09, 2014, 05:02:23 PM
The flexible hose (#19) (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29011&SortOrder=530) connecting the hard line to the slave cylinder is leaking and seeping fluid.  Time to order a replacement.

The old header/exhaust is out.  The oil separator cover gasket is what broke and leaked all over the floor of the garage -- I need to find one that actually fits.  I pulled the battery... it read -40 volts. :rofl:

I need to get this thing back into town to get the crack of doom fixed.  I'm wondering if I need to replace the master cylinder since it has been spitting up fluid into the driver footwell.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 11, 2014, 01:59:15 PM
I love that Moss Motors has a distributor in Roanoke, VA.  I can pay for ground shipping and I still get my stuff in a day or two.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 13, 2014, 10:13:59 PM
I need to get this thing back into town to get the crack of doom fixed.  I'm wondering if I need to replace the master cylinder since it has been spitting up fluid into the driver footwell.

This reminds me of my first experience with a British car.  I was working at an auto auction as a lot jockey, and hopped into a TR-7 to move it for some reason.  

No sooner did I get the damn thing started when the oil feed line popped off the back of the mechanical pressure gauge and pissed oil ALL over my jeans and shirt.  You would be surprised how much oil a little hose can piss out when it's coming at you at around 80PSI.  :mad:  

When I'm behind the dash on my B, I always instinctively check that the oil feed line is still firmly connected to the gauge.  


[edit]

Also, my B occasionally leaked fluid from the master cylinder into the driver's footwell when I first bought it.  One day, it mysteriously stopped.

I still think our cars were put together by the exact same slovenly Midlander.  

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 14, 2014, 08:24:50 PM
I have an appointment with a local photographer who wants to use my MG in a photo shoot Tuesday.

This is going to be the quickest clutch bleed and exhaust install I've ever done.  :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 15, 2014, 10:55:16 PM
Well.  Sure hope I don't have to do that again any time soon.

I removed the flexible fabric/rubber clutch hose and the old slave cylinder.  The slave cylinder on the car doesn't look any different than the replacement I bought from Moss and is air tight.  By the way, the lock nut holding the hose in place is 24mm.  You'll also need a 12mm 90-degree 3/8 flare socket to remove the hydraulic line.  It's the only way to get to the 24-mm lock nut.  I'm going to attempt reverse-bleeding the original slave cylinder.  I should be able to toss the new exhaust on in a couple hours tomorrow.

Oh, my back.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 16, 2014, 05:57:40 PM
Does anyone sell a 12mm crowfoot socket?  Every store I went to sold either 11 or 13. :mad:

Another completely useless day wasted.


I took the bad wheel (front right) to be balanced.  The guy said there was a flat spot on it and adjusted the wheel weight to compensate.  Since it's off the car, I'll probably paint it this week since I don't have much else going on.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: JohnnyReb on March 16, 2014, 06:20:08 PM
Does anyone sell a 12mm crowfoot socket?  Every store I went to sold either 11 or 13. :mad:

Another completely useless day wasted.


I took the bad wheel (front right) to be balanced.  The guy said there was a flat spot on it and adjusted the wheel weight to compensate.  Since it's off the car, I'll probably paint it this week since I don't have much else going on.
I have cut tools and welded things to them to make the special tools needed for a specific job.

Rather expensive sometimes but it's quick and works.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 16, 2014, 07:28:05 PM
I have cut tools and welded things to them to make the special tools needed for a specific job.

Rather expensive sometimes but it's quick and works.
I would love it if I could cut a 12mm socket down the side, but I'm afraid I might hurt myself.  The only thing I have is a table saw.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: JohnnyReb on March 16, 2014, 07:30:35 PM
I would love it if I could cut a 12mm socket down the side, but I'm afraid I might hurt myself.  The only thing I have is a table saw.
Side grinder and time? ....definitely not the table saw.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 16, 2014, 07:31:25 PM
I would love it if I could cut a 12mm socket down the side, but I'm afraid I might hurt myself.  The only thing I have is a table saw.

Can you shim the 13mm crow's foot to work?   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 16, 2014, 07:32:53 PM
I wouldn't know where to start. :(

A 10mm hex bit fits in the other end of the flare wrench I have.  I think I might be able to stick the other end of the flare wrench over the hydraulic fitting and turn the wrench with the hex bit on an extension.  I could at least keep one hand on the hydraulic line and turn the wrench with the other hand.

Did I mention I woke up in horrible pain this morning.  Oh, my back. :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 16, 2014, 07:40:09 PM
Side grinder and time? ....definitely not the table saw.
I could do that.  I have one in the garage.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 16, 2014, 07:40:57 PM
You might be able to make the 11mm crow's foot work if you have a good file and/or a Dremel.  
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 16, 2014, 07:44:55 PM
You might be able to make the 11mm crow's foot work if you have a good file and/or a Dremel. 
I could, but the car is stuck in Columbia at the moment (yeah, that was a bad decision).  Very limited resources and almost no tools.

I'm really worried about boogering-up the hydraulic fitting.  I did that on one of my Camrys.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 22, 2014, 09:37:41 AM
I could, but the car is stuck in Columbia at the moment (yeah, that was a bad decision).  Very limited resources and almost no tools.

I'm really worried about boogering-up the hydraulic fitting.  I did that on one of my Camrys.

Did you get this together yet?  Which fitting are you working on?  Is it one of the bastards around the pedal box? 

I try to avoid that area like the plague.  Even my hands, which aren't big, are too big for comfort.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 09:45:52 AM
No, this is on the passenger side of the car.  The hard line follows the fender down to the frame rail where there is a tang that holds a nut, the hard line, and the rubber hose.  To say it's a tight fit is an understatement.  It should be next to the starter... some people have suggested removing it to make it easier to work in that area.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 22, 2014, 10:03:51 AM
Yeah, that's a tight spot.  Are you working above or below the car?

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 10:10:47 AM
Mostly below.  I was able to remove the retaining nut from the top, but threading the hard line back into the hose isn't happening either way.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/DSC00112_zps86749d53.jpg)
(not my car)

That's it on the left.  Looks like I should probably remove the starter.  That should make it easier.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 22, 2014, 10:16:44 AM
Mostly below.  I was able to remove the retaining nut from the top, but threading the hard line back into the hose isn't happening either way.
That's it on the left.  Looks like I should probably remove the starter.  That should make it easier.

Taking the starter out would give you more room.  Can you loosen any of the clips holding the hard line in place above that fitting, to give you some room to make adjustments down there? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 10:21:49 AM
Taking the starter out would give you more room.  Can you loosen any of the clips holding the hard line in place above that fitting, to give you some room to make adjustments down there? 
There's enough flex in the line for me to move it around and up and down.  I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning, and threading the hose up from the bottom.  I was trying to do it from the top down with a wrench but couldn't put enough downward pressure on it to start threading it into the hose.

I didn't realize that was the starter.  Everything under my car is the same uniform black color... there's nothing distinguishable from another part down there.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 22, 2014, 10:30:38 AM
I didn't realize that was the starter.  Everything under my car is the same uniform black color... there's nothing distinguishable from another part down there.

Are you trying to leave openings for the other guys here reasons to make fun of us?   "That's because it's all covered in oil!"  :rotf:  :-)


Quote
I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning,

Can you hold it with one wrench and just wrap a piece of tape around the line and the nut to keep it from spinning?  One less wrench might give you more room.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on March 22, 2014, 12:17:50 PM
Are you trying to leave openings for the other guys here reasons to make fun of us?   "That's because it's all covered in oil!"  :rotf:  :-)


Can you hold it with one wrench and just wrap a piece of tape around the line and the nut to keep it from spinning?  One less wrench might give you more room.

I will never forget the pile of goop that was taken off the bottom of the 'Cuda when it was redone.  Call it 'redneck undercoating' or what you will but what had been done was to spray the underbody with drain oil then drive it over dusty dirt roads.  Apparently it worked, the floor panels were rust free and here in New England that is rare.  Of course the entire bottom is now black from undercoating.  :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 22, 2014, 09:38:03 PM
I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning, and threading the hose up from the bottom.
It worked. :II:

New problem... the master cylinder is leaking.  I tried to bleed the system and it all ended up on the floor mat.

I should be able to put the exhaust on tomorrow and have a new master cylinder delivered next week.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 23, 2014, 05:57:56 PM
Well, that didn't go so well.

When the instructions tell you to install the new header from the bottom of the car, it helps to have a jack that is taller than the new part being installed.  I did get a new oil separator cover gasket made.  Advance Auto sells sheets of cork... much easier to work with than that other stuff.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 26, 2014, 03:46:32 PM
48 hours.  That's how long it takes Moss Motors to pick, pack, ship, and deliver my order after I place it online.

I think I'll stick with them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 26, 2014, 04:14:01 PM
What did you order?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 26, 2014, 04:28:45 PM
Clutch master cylinder.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 26, 2014, 04:31:46 PM
Clutch master cylinder.

Mine has a SMALL leak on the clutch master.  I haven't bothered to see where it's going yet. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 26, 2014, 04:36:13 PM
Mine has a SMALL leak on the clutch master.  I haven't bothered to see where it's going yet. 
The current one has failed around the pushrod seal or whatever's closest to it.  It squirts onto the floor mat (and your shoes) and onto the inner fender.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 26, 2014, 04:48:11 PM
The current one has failed around the pushrod seal or whatever's closest to it.  It squirts onto the floor mat (and your shoes) and onto the inner fender.

That's the same leak area mine has been developing.  It's not bad yet, but I need to catch it before it ruins a pair of shoes or pants.  Did you get another cap with the slave cylinder, or do you have to reuse your old one?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 26, 2014, 04:52:36 PM
It looks just like the old one.  It finally froze over the winter and gave up the ghost.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 29, 2014, 09:02:26 PM
Brrr... it got cold out there.

I got as far as putting on the new header and removing the old exhaust hanger mount on the rear.  My TT exhaust kit was missing the 1/4-inch bolts for the new hanger so I called it a day.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 30, 2014, 06:00:07 PM
Got the new exhaust on and found out the battery I brought with me won't fit in the battery compartment behind the seat.  $75 for a new one.

How the hell do you get the pedal box cover off?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on March 30, 2014, 06:13:47 PM
This might help:

http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/2011/01/pedal-power.html


It should all come out through the top. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 30, 2014, 07:01:22 PM
I ****ed up and managed to "remove" one of the captive nuts holding the muffler hanger to the car.  :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 30, 2014, 07:12:13 PM
Think I found it.  It's just one bolt on each side and two in the front.  I'm not sure why I'm having so much trouble with this, but it is dark and hard to see.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 08:08:44 PM
No wonder the cylinder cover was so difficult to remove.  It looks like bolts were replaced by screws (maybe they're all screws) and was so encrusted with dirt to be invisible.  I got three of them off... the fourth one is stripped.  I picked up a couple of different sized Grabits from Lowes.  Got the new battery installed and the car fired right up.  The belts will need to be replaced.  Hopefully I can get the rebound straps installed tomorrow as well and get the clutch bled.

Today was Mule Day in Columbia, Tennessee.  They should rename it to "Assholes on Motorcycles".

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 05, 2014, 08:33:54 PM
The rebound straps are so simple that after you get them installed, you'll say to yourself "That's it?"
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 08:34:17 PM
I've been delaying it out of fear of breaking something.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 05, 2014, 08:36:48 PM
I would be really surprised if you messed up something installing the straps.  They really are that easy.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 08:38:25 PM
I'm surprised how easy this car comes apart.  I have yet to break anything.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 05, 2014, 08:45:18 PM
I don't believe I have ever broken even a single bolt on mine yet- knock on wood.  Most of the fittings are fine pitch thread, which may have something to do with it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 08:50:33 PM
I'm going to have to find a way to fix the exhaust hanger.  The pipe is all cockeyed and will probably make a bunch of noise.  Probably have to weld on a new plate.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 05, 2014, 08:55:01 PM
Which hanger?  I would look on mine, but I try not to crawl under my car for anything unless I absolutely have to.  The lowering springs made it almost unbearable.  
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 08:55:38 PM
The one on the rear.  I managed to wrench off one of the captive nuts the hanger attaches to.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 09:16:05 PM
Once I get this thing sorted out and back into town, it's going straight to JD's for rust repair and off to the paint shop.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 05, 2014, 09:20:44 PM
Once I get this thing sorted out and back into town, it's going straight to JD's for rust repair and off to the paint shop.

I figure mine has about ten or fifteen more wax jobs (two or three a year) before I finally bite the bullet and get it repainted.  I have a strange attachment to the original paint, for some reason.   

Are you sticking with the same color? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 09:23:03 PM
Yes.  I like it.

I'm just wondering if I want to get it patched up or a total respray.  There are a couple of worn/scratched areas, some small chips, and a spot of missing clearcoat on the hood.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 05, 2014, 09:59:19 PM
Yes.  I like it.

I'm just wondering if I want to get it patched up or a total respray.  There are a couple of worn/scratched areas, some small chips, and a spot of missing clearcoat on the hood.

I would take it to the shop, and have them give you an honest appraisal. 

Without looking at it, I would suggest a total respray, since the clear is lifting in an area. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2014, 10:00:44 PM
I would take it to the shop, and have them give you an honest appraisal. 

Without looking at it, I would suggest a total respray, since the clear is lifting in an area. 
It's a side job from a friend that knows a guy.  Retail is $3-5k for a complete respray.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2014, 05:03:52 PM
Negligible progress.  I ended up drilling out that last screw and got the cover off. 

No luck getting the fitting off the master cylinder or the bolts off the rebound strap mounts.  Got some basic maintenance done (oil and filter change). 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 06, 2014, 05:12:07 PM
It's a side job from a friend that knows a guy.  Retail is $3-5k for a complete respray.

Take it to a few places, and ask them what they'd do.  I've painted a few cars, and I'm only an amateur, but I'm really leery to spray over and try to blend clearcoat that has started to flake off anywhere else on the car.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2014, 05:18:15 PM
Other than the patch of peeling clearcoat on the hood, it looks a lot like the MGB Wheeler Dealers did.  Stone chips, scratches around the hood hooks, and the rust patch around the crack on the door.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 06, 2014, 05:21:55 PM
Is your crack still growing? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2014, 05:55:58 PM
Not that I'm aware of.  I don't use the mirror or window as a pull handle.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on April 06, 2014, 05:58:06 PM
Not that I'm aware of.  I don't use the mirror or window as a pull handle.
Don't let anyone else get close, those will be the first thing someone else will grab.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2014, 06:07:30 PM
I really don't like messing with hydraulic fittings.  I may not have to... that bolt on the rear comes off.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/clutch-cylinder-apart_zps9c54b636.gif)

This looks nice.  I wonder if it improves anything or just looks pretty.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/air-filters1_zpsd66bb38f.jpg)

http://pcbunn.cacr.caltech.edu/jjb/MGBGT/
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 06, 2014, 06:16:42 PM
This looks nice.  I wonder if it improves anything or just looks pretty.

The stock air cans are pretty efficient, and have a built in velocity stack, if I remember correctly. 

If you have good stock cans, just get free flowing air filters, and call it good.

Or you can stick a supercharger under the hood and REALLY pull that air through the filter.  :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2014, 06:24:35 PM
They're in good condition.  There's almost no rust on this car. 

Paint is another story, though.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 06, 2014, 06:27:25 PM
They're in good condition.  There's almost no rust on this car. 

Paint is another story, though.

I think the air cans may be one of the last things to rust on these cars.  They usually enjoy a coat of oil all their life, based on their location on the car. 

The bigger danger to them is someone replacing them with another air filter, and then selling off the car without them. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2014, 06:38:20 PM
I can't wait to get this car back on the road so I can concentrate on the Ford.  Driving to Columbia and back eats up 2-3 hours of my day.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 12, 2014, 08:26:06 PM
Got the new master cylinder installed.  There's a cover on the firewall that sits right behind it... take the panel out and you have access from behind (under the dash) to remove the 17mm bolt holding the pipe to the cylinder body.  I tried the standard bleeding method and can't seem to get any pressure to build up.  I'm going to try reverse bleeding tomorrow.

Bad news, the lower retaining bolt on the passenger side rebound strap was broken off.  I'm going to have to take it to someone to weld on a new nut.  Hopefully I should have it back in town by tomorrow evening.

edit: going to try reverse bleeding with a plastic syringe although I hear gravity bleeding works well on the MG.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 13, 2014, 08:44:07 PM
Still no luck.  I never did replace the old slave cylinder, so that may be a problem.  I tried Mr. Hand's instructions but I hear a glug-glug sound like there is air getting in somewhere.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=uj1dMdYgRK4[/youtube]

I will try this method (http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1789583,1789610#msg-1789610).  If it doesn't work, I'm taking to the garage down the street and letting them do it.

I found where the leak was coming from on the new master cylinder.  If you put too much pressure in the line, it seeps out from the base of the plastic reservoir.  It's okay as long as you don't put more than 10 kg/h of pressure.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 18, 2014, 08:08:02 PM
Think I got it.  We'll see if it holds pressure overnight. :yahoo:

Replaced the old slave cylinder, let it gravity bleed for an hour or so, and closed off the bleeder screw on the slave.  Pumped the pedal about a dozen times with the master cylinder cover installed, pushed in the pushrod on the slave a couple times.  Rinse and repeat. 

I forgot how heavy the MG clutch pedal feels. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 19, 2014, 04:09:13 PM
Argh.  Now it won't start.

I don't get it.  It fired up fine yesterday.  It turned over this morning but didn't start after a couple seconds, so I stopped turning the key.  Now I get nothing.  Everything else works, just no starter.  I replaced the starter relay but I still get nothing.  Battery is 12.4v but I did not check the ground cable.

Nothing was changed from yesterday.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 19, 2014, 04:24:29 PM
Argh.  Now it won't start.

I don't get it.  It fired up fine yesterday.  It turned over this morning but didn't start after a couple seconds, so I stopped turning the key.  Now I get nothing.  Everything else works, just no starter.  I replaced the starter relay but I still get nothing.  Battery is 12.4v but I did not check the ground cable.

Nothing was changed from yesterday.

Jump the relay with a screwdriver, and see if it starts.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 19, 2014, 09:09:57 PM
I was at a graveyard & church way out in the boonies yesterday, miles out on dirt roads.  I was there for about five hours, and after I left, I heard this tremendous racket and clatter coming from under the car.  I stopped the car, with my first thought being "Shit, there is NO ONE out here, and I have NO cell signal."

After looking under the car, it turned out to be nothing.  It just sits so low that I was scraping the crap out of the exhaust pipe and under-body, almost to the point of being in danger of high centering.  That would have been an interesting predicament. 

I don't know how I got in there without high centering or scraping anything, but I will be more mindful if I go out there again. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 19, 2014, 09:17:49 PM
I was driving through Ft. Campbell a while back and blindly following my GPS back to the highway.  Damn thing ran me into a dead end.  I slammed on my brakes and nearly ended up in a ditch.

I didn't slide very far and was able to back out.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on April 19, 2014, 10:04:37 PM
I was driving through Ft. Campbell a while back and blindly following my GPS back to the highway. 

That reminds me of something I saw today out in the sticks:

(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/ignitethefire65/Lost_zps3bb4f70b.jpg)

There is absolutely nothing around this area- nothing.  I thought it was funny enough that I snapped a photo. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 20, 2014, 04:24:11 PM
Got it.  I had a fun drive around dead-ass Columbia hoping to find kids washing cars.

I'm not sure if it was the starter relay or something else.  I reconnected everything this way:

Quote
Starter relay:

W1 = white/red
W2 = black
C1 = brown
C2 = brown/white

85 = W1
86 = W2
30 = C1
87 = C2

The clutch still has air in it.  It works but it's not the best.

Kids seem to like the MG.  It's the adults that go nuts over the Ford. :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on April 20, 2014, 05:50:59 PM
I was driving through Ft. Campbell a while back and blindly following my GPS back to the highway.  Damn thing ran me into a dead end.  I slammed on my brakes and nearly ended up in a ditch.

I didn't slide very far and was able to back out.

At the top of the fly-over ... 'yes dear' goes 'ding' ... down below the exit not taken falls away ...  ahead ...  no exit for a dozen miles. :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 20, 2014, 07:04:21 PM
Supposed to bring it home on Sunday.  I'm definitely looking for a closer garage next.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 24, 2014, 11:59:18 PM
This is irritating.  I reset the carburetors to factory settings and replaced the distributor cap/rotor and it still won't fire.  The button and cap only fit one way (there is a tab/slot arrangement on one side of the cap) so it's either another bad starter relay or my firing order is off.  I need to pull a plug and see if I'm getting spark.

I did a little sanding on the dash so I can fit the new dash cap.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 02, 2014, 10:09:23 PM
The condenser wire and coil ground wire are both toast. 

Time to order replacements.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on June 07, 2014, 02:19:21 PM
The condenser wire and coil ground wire are both toast. 

Time to order replacements.
They didn't have legs.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 08, 2014, 10:42:06 PM
Did you ever figure out if your firing order was right? 


I can take a picture of the side of my engine if it helps. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 08, 2014, 10:45:24 PM
Not yet.  I got a replacement condenser and ground wire but haven't put it back together yet.

I was using this as a reference: http://mydesultoryblog.com/2011/09/mgb-idling-problemsposting-to-british-car-forum/
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 08, 2014, 10:48:24 PM
Yeah, I can do better.  Give me a second, and I'll go snap one right now. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 08, 2014, 10:58:45 PM
Here you go:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/order1_zpsd68cf6ed.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 14, 2014, 08:05:50 PM
I've checked and re-checked the spark plug wires.  After replacing the condenser and coil ground wire it runs, but it runs badly.  The points are not stuck together but it's almost like one of the two aren't working.  I was able to pull them away from the cam.

I put the throttle shaft in upside-down (no gas pedal).  Had to take the carbs off to fix it.  Might as well re-check them again.

Rebuilt the carburettors again.  I might have made a mistake setting the fuel mixture (too lean).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 15, 2014, 08:30:01 PM
It's alive.   

One new distributor cap, rotor, condenser, and coil ground wire later, everything seems to be running well.  Still needs a little work, but it's driveable and fires right up.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 16, 2014, 11:09:47 PM
I sure would like an AccuSpark, but they're friggin $75 (£45) and that doesn't include international shipping.

I'll have to see if one of the expats or a family member can ship one to me. 


edit: found one for £35 ($60) including shipping.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 16, 2014, 11:54:14 PM
Have you considered a Pertronix?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 10:02:24 AM
Absolutely.  Just as soon as I feel like spending the money for one (some time this year).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 10:16:56 AM
Absolutely.  Just as soon as I feel like spending the money for one (some time this year).

I have on in my B, and I have been very happy with it.  Its on a recurved and rebuilt distributor, though. 

Aren't you running an aftermarket distributor anyways?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 10:18:27 AM
Yeah, some Mallory dual-point unit with mechanical advance.  I'm not even sure what model it is because there's no markings on it.  Ordering parts consisted of comparing pictures online with what I had on hand.  The condenser I ordered ended up being larger than the one I replaced.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 01:01:07 PM
Well, that was interesting.

I'm driving the MG today and had to make a trip to the customer care site 12 miles up the road.  I guess I wasn't paying attention to my fuel gauge and ran low on gas and the fuel pump overheated.  I gave it a couple of thumps just to be sure but after refilling the tank and letting the car sit for half an hour, everything seems to be okay.

Lesson learned.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on June 17, 2014, 01:11:04 PM
(http://storage.torontosun.com/v1/dynamic_resize/sws_path/suns-prod-images/1302500681330_ORIGINAL.jpg?quality=80&size=420x)










 :whistling:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 01:36:55 PM
How do you know it overheated?  Do you have a points or submersible pump?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 01:55:08 PM
External point pump.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 04:19:04 PM
Did it just stop pumping fuel?  I don't think those externals can overheat due to low fuel.  I could be wrong, though.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 04:23:20 PM
I couldn't hear it click on when I turned the key.  It ran long enough to suck the fuel bowl dry a couple times, until it stopped running at all.  That's when I noticed the low fuel level.

I thought the fuel was supposed to flow through the pump to keep it cooled.  I could only fit 6-1/2 gallons in the tank, so it wasn't entirely empty.  After refilling the tank and letting it sit, I was able to drive the 12 miles back to my office.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 08:13:46 PM
Pretty sure I ****ed up the carburetors again.  Sputtering, backfiring, near-stalling.  This is frustrating.  I'm still not hearing the fuel pump tick over on startup (the usual tick-tick, glug-glug sound isn't there).  I've got a replacement in the garage.

My ColorTune shipped this morning. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 08:49:09 PM
Pretty sure I ****ed up the carburetors again.  Sputtering, backfiring, near-stalling.  This is frustrating.  I'm still not hearing the fuel pump tick over on startup (the usual tick-tick, glug-glug sound isn't there).  I've got a replacement in the garage.

My ColorTune shipped this morning.

Low pressure maybe causing the bowls to hold an improper amount of fuel.  Will it idle? 

I'd lean towards a bad pump.  How old is it? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 08:55:42 PM
It's the pump that came with the car.  I don't have the old invoices anymore but the previous owner had the car for five years, so I'm guessing the pump is at least seven years old.

It will idle but with the carbs out of whack, it's a little difficult to say what the cause is.  Sitting at a light, the idle drops down low enough to almost cut out.  Give it gas and the idle goes back to "normal".  Drive it around for a bit, and the idle stays higher than normal. 

I reset the carbs to the factory settings over the weekend but never tuned them for the new exhaust.  I think that might have something to do with it since it's no longer stock.  The Moss TT exhaust is a lot smoother than the old factory pipes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 09:09:32 PM
I think I would swap in the other pump just to be sure.  Is it the same style, or is it solid state? 

I switched mine to a little solid state job, and I'll never go back.  I'm not about to sit at the side of the road trying to convince my fuel pump that it needs to do its job with a stick or rock.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 09:18:56 PM
My spare is the electric fuel pump (#3-084) that Victoria British sells.  I bought it before driving the car to Texas.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 09:29:57 PM
Yeah, I think I'd swap over.


Since I'm not familiar with the original pumps, I had to read up.  It looks like the only way you'll overheat that pump is if you run it dry on gas (and it will tick continuously then), or if you get a piece of debris stuck in it with the current in the "on" position of the points.  If it is the pump, it will slowly start to die on you, until one day it just decides that it's had enough, and lets you sit.   

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 09:34:24 PM
Oh well.  I had fun for a couple of hours.  Hopefully my ColorTune will be here by the weekend.  Until then I can get by using the tuning procedure I used last time (the Bentley/John Twist method).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 09:36:56 PM
Just for clarification, it did actually let you sit, correct?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 09:40:16 PM
:???:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 09:41:48 PM
I'm driving the MG today and had to make a trip to the customer care site 12 miles up the road.  I guess I wasn't paying attention to my fuel gauge and ran low on gas and the fuel pump overheated.  I gave it a couple of thumps just to be sure but after refilling the tank and letting the car sit for half an hour, everything seems to be okay.

^^^This time.  Sorry, I should have been more specific.  :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 09:45:11 PM
Still not sure what you're asking.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 17, 2014, 09:50:15 PM
Did the car stall out?  Die? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 17, 2014, 09:55:32 PM
After filling it up with gas around noon and letting it sit, it started up and ran fine back to the office.  On my way home from work is when I had the sputtering and backfiring.  I wasn't sure if it would restart and ended up cutting through the parts store parking lot to avoid the right turn at the intersection.  It seems to have gotten worse.

The previous tank of 10% ethanol gasoline was left over from last year and had sat all summer with no fuel additive.  I've been buying non-ethanol premium since then.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 19, 2014, 10:13:45 PM
I don't believe it.  The rubber catch that holds the sun visor in place fell off and the damn thing is riveted to the window frame.  I'm going to have to drill out the rivet to replace it.

In the interim, I'm just going to take the sun visors off and store them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 19, 2014, 11:28:18 PM
On my way home from work is when I had the sputtering and backfiring... ended up cutting through the parts store parking lot to avoid the right turn at the intersection.

Just imagine the amount of fuel you added to the MG stereotype to anyone inside the auto parts store by doing this^^^.    :lmao:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 19, 2014, 11:30:07 PM
I don't believe it.  The rubber catch that holds the sun visor in place fell off and the damn thing is riveted to the window frame.  I'm going to have to drill out the rivet to replace it.

In the interim, I'm just going to take the sun visors off and store them.

I'd be careful drilling anything around the windscreen frame.  REALLY careful.  If you break your glass, you're going to have a bad time.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 19, 2014, 11:34:39 PM
Just imagine the amount of fuel you added to the MG stereotype to anyone inside the auto parts store by doing this^^^.    :lmao:
I managed to coast through the parking lot without running anyone over or stalling.  The trouble doesn't start until you step on the gas. 

I felt bad because someone complimented me on the car as I was passing through.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 20, 2014, 12:22:10 AM
I managed to coast through the parking lot without running anyone over or stalling.  The trouble doesn't start until you step on the gas. 

I felt bad because someone complimented me on the car as I was passing through.

 :rotf: :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BlondeMoment on June 22, 2014, 11:22:30 AM
Chris, about your sun visor- if you google 1973 MGB sun visor bracket, there's a link to a post on the mgexp.com forum. I'm on a Lenovo or I'd post a link (all I can get is "select all" I have no idea what kind of hell that means).

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 22, 2014, 11:59:06 AM
I took the visors out of my B.  I just wear sunglasses if I need to mitigate the sun.  This might not work for you, though. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 22, 2014, 07:10:37 PM
I'm taking the visors off.  I'll have Mr. Damon (JD's British Cars) deal with it when I take my car to his shop to have the Crack of Doom and the rebound strap mounts repaired.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 22, 2014, 07:20:32 PM
I'm taking the visors off.  I'll have Mr. Damon (JD's British Cars) deal with it when I take my car to his shop to have the Crack of Doom and the rebound strap mounts repaired.

Are you going to have the mounts repaired, or are you going commando?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 22, 2014, 07:24:08 PM
Painted.  I'm not looking to add more spaces where rust can hang out.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 22, 2014, 07:26:55 PM
Painted.  I'm not looking to add more spaces where rust can hang out.

I hear you.  I keep mine parked inside to keep it out of the weather. 

At least it doesn't rust as fast as any of my Datsuns did.   
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 22, 2014, 07:29:11 PM
The only significant rust are some pinholes on the leading edge of the frame rails and around the edges of the floor pan near the door/roof seam.  It's almost insignificant... the car is pretty solid.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 23, 2014, 09:22:33 PM
My Gunson ColorTune arrived today.  I think this thing is nearly as old as I am.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 25, 2014, 11:28:14 PM
You know, I really like the MG, but I enjoyed working on the Datsun so much more.  I want another 280ZX, but it has to be the right one.

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1982-Datsun-280ZX-1537105.xhtml?conversationId=861115
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 26, 2014, 01:44:08 AM
Cool car, but lose the wheels.

Chicks dig a Datsun.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: franksolich on June 26, 2014, 03:03:17 AM
You know, I really like the MG, but I enjoyed working on the Datsun so much more.  I want another 280ZX, but it has to be the right one.

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1982-Datsun-280ZX-1537105.xhtml?conversationId=861115

I don't believe it, not for a minute.

Two thousand bucks?

For a classic vehicle in excellent condition?

Yeah, sure.

I've seen pieces of junk for two thousand bucks.

Somebody's pulling our legs, although I have no idea why.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2014, 08:19:52 PM
Well, this kinda sucks.  The factory wiring for the fuel pump has a loop on the end of each wire that screws onto the positive terminal and the ground.  The replacement fuel pump doesn't have any connectors, only a pair of wires and no installation instructions.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2014, 08:58:49 PM
Well, this kinda sucks.  The factory wiring for the fuel pump has a loop on the end of each wire that screws onto the positive terminal and the ground.  The replacement fuel pump doesn't have any connectors, only a pair of wires and no installation instructions.

Let me go look at how mine is wired up. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2014, 10:32:42 PM
They made a million of these damn things.  Why can't I find a fuel pump that costs less than $200?  A new fuel pump for my Ford was less than $40.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 29, 2014, 10:41:33 PM
This is what I have.  The ground has been moved to one of the screws on the body, the positive is attached to the original post.  For $50 plus shipping, I'm willing to buy it and rebuild the old one as a spare.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/supump_zps9e87b3b2.png) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MGB-Jaguar-MG-MIdget-AH-Sprite-Mini-Cooper-Negative-Ground-SU-AZX-1307-Fuel-Pump-/370949278403?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565e4ccac3&vxp=mtr)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 29, 2014, 11:02:39 PM
I'd go with that one, or just a box solid state pump...
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 30, 2014, 08:48:09 PM
Bought and shipped.  Priority mail, it should be here Wednesday.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on June 30, 2014, 11:18:24 PM
Will/does your license plate or holder say antique or classic ?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 30, 2014, 11:24:44 PM
Neither.  This car has regular plates.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 30, 2014, 11:40:40 PM
I run vintage plates on mine. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 30, 2014, 11:57:32 PM
Vintage plates are only good on weekends.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on June 30, 2014, 11:59:16 PM
Really?  How does it work in your state? 

Here, the vintage tags become the legally registered tags for the vehicle. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 01, 2014, 12:08:04 AM
They're not legal for "general transportation" on weekdays.  Weekends and transport to shows/events only.

I don't know how well the cops are versed on the Antique Automobile tags, but that's what the book says.  It doesn't stop people from using them but if you're cited, you lose the plate permanently and can't get it back.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 01, 2014, 12:30:07 AM
So you also have to have a set of current design plates for daily use? 

That's kind of dumb.  I don't think vintage tags would be worth the trouble where you are at.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on July 01, 2014, 02:03:00 AM
I was under the impression that after a car was 20 years old it automatically qualified for classic status. Then at 30 years old, antique. Not sure about vintage.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 01, 2014, 09:38:25 AM
So you also have to have a set of current design plates for daily use? 

That's kind of dumb.  I don't think vintage tags would be worth the trouble where you are at.
Nope, you can have AA tags or you can have regular tags, but not both.  I've had to surrender my previous plate every time I changed the registration.

I was under the impression that after a car was 20 years old it automatically qualified for classic status. Then at 30 years old, antique. Not sure about vintage.

As far as my state is concerned, the cutoff is 25 years and there can't be any modifications to the engine, but they never do a physical inspection.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 01, 2014, 01:33:19 PM
Nope, you can have AA tags or you can have regular tags, but not both.  I've had to surrender my previous plate every time I changed the registration.

As far as my state is concerned, the cutoff is 25 years and there can't be any modifications to the engine, but they never do a physical inspection.

Moss Motors superchargers cast "MG" into the intake manifold.  That would sure help with that no modifications clause.  "See, it's factory!"
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 04, 2014, 03:12:39 PM
I was able to pry the pop rivets out that were holding the sun visor catch in place.  I don't want to try to put another pop rivet in, but I think a machine screw with a wide head would work.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/visorpoprivets_zpse6d31915.png)


It worked.  A couple of #8-3/8" sheet metal screws and it's back in place.


I found a fix for my rebound strap mount that doesn't require welding.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2169296
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 05, 2014, 11:24:50 PM
That didn't work out so well.  I got the top hangers off but the lower hangers are a little more difficult.  Also, I can't find the rebound straps I bought. :whatever:

I can't seem to get the center punch to mark the lower bolt face correctly, so I'm going to try to score it with the angle grinder.  Should be fun.


edit: Found them.  They were hiding in a box along with the charger cord for my drill.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 06, 2014, 09:21:25 PM
It's alive. 

The new fuel pump is pretty loud.  I wonder if it came from a larger car.  I still didn't get around to repairing the rebound strap mounts.  Maybe I can do that this week.  A new problem, one of my rear brake lights flicker during idle (a new LED bulb) and the rear marker light on the same side isn't working.

---

Something is broken.  The tail lights turn on and stay on as soon as you put the key in and I have no brake lights.  The mechanical switch may be stuck because it worked fine the last time I drove it before the fuel pump crapped out.

Definitely need to get the rebound straps reinstalled and some new shocks.  Making a tight and fast turn is pretty wooly.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 12, 2014, 06:45:15 PM
The solder and wiring on this replacement switch looks really shitty.  I think I'm going to have to redo it.


e:  No luck.  I crimped and re-soldered the wiring and the switch is still shorted.  At least Northwest Auto Parts sells a replacement for half the price of the Moss part.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 20, 2014, 08:13:36 PM
So I adjusted my carburetors with the Gunson Colortune (don't touch it while it's running!).  As I was finishing up, the engine sputtered, died, and now will not start.  Nothing is disconnected or stuck.  It cranks but will not fire.  I pulled the starter relay and will check it just in case.

Still waiting for my brake switch.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 22, 2014, 09:49:08 PM
Grumble, grumble.

Replaced both the starter relay and the brake light switch.  The lights continue to come on as soon as you turn the key and the motor will spin but not fire. 

I'm trying to remove the ground strap between the body and motor (it looks like its come unwound) but the nut on the front of the engine just spins and will not come off.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/motormountandgrndstrap2_zps24bac907.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on July 22, 2014, 10:30:48 PM
Grumble, grumble.

Replaced both the starter relay and the brake light switch.  The lights continue to come on as soon as you turn the key and the motor will spin but not fire. 

I'm trying to remove the ground strap between the body and motor (it looks like its come unwound) but the nut on the front of the engine just spins and will not come off.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/motormountandgrndstrap2_zps24bac907.jpg)

Unless the ground strap is broken, it should still do it's job.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 24, 2014, 11:29:58 PM
I bypassed the starting switch and relay using the John Twist method.  Still cranking but will not run.  I'm getting fuel... I can see it in the filter and smell it in the carburettors.  I haven't checked for a spark yet.  Can you "blow" a coil?  I heard a loud pop before the engine quit running, and I don't think it a carb backfire.

The plugs are pretty sooty, but they are new (replaced them last year and put less than thousand miles on them since) and should be gapped correctly.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 25, 2014, 01:56:15 PM
I bypassed the starting switch and relay using the John Twist method.  Still cranking but will not run.  I'm getting fuel... I can see it in the filter and smell it in the carburettors.  I haven't checked for a spark yet.  Can you "blow" a coil?  I heard a loud pop before the engine quit running, and I don't think it a carb backfire.

The plugs are pretty sooty, but they are new (replaced them last year and put less than thousand miles on them since) and should be gapped correctly.

Lucas, prince of darkness says YES. But check for spark first anyway.  Could also be the condenser in the distributor.  I you have spark and you have gas you should have ignition.  After verifying spark you might give a bit of an ether enema to see what happens.   

Pops are never good.  Does this think have anti backfire plates it the carbs?  (my '72 had them stock but they got replaced when it was 'de smoged'.)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 25, 2014, 09:18:26 PM
I haz tail lights.  After Nadin-ing instructions on how to adjust the switch, they work like a charm. 

I just put in a new condenser (Mallory 400).  It was a bit larger than the one it replaced.  No backfire doodads.  I will give the starting fluid a shot.  The engine appears to have been de-smogged.  There are a bunch of plugged vacuum lines.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 26, 2014, 03:08:02 PM
The ether worked. 

Time to take another look at the fuel system.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 26, 2014, 08:23:08 PM
Definitely a fuel issue.  I replaced the filter and hoses going to the carburetor and it runs, or at least it starts and idles.  It sputters and dies above 2,500 RPM.  The rear carb seems to be running lean.  I've got the adjusting screw pushed all the way in and it still runs like crap.  I don't remember if that hose in the middle has ever been replaced.

I made the mistake of buying 1/4-inch hoses today instead of 5/16.  That might be part of my problem.  Time for another trip to the store.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 27, 2014, 07:26:32 PM
It's alive.  :yahoo:

The wiring on these brake switches are shit.  I've already had to replace the one I just bought.  Good thing I paid for two of them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 28, 2014, 09:37:53 AM
Dammit.  I think I blew out the O2 bung again.  This is the second (third?) time it's happened.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 29, 2014, 09:26:14 PM
Put the new door top caps on.  Sure looks nice.

I have a stumble around 2,000 RPM.  Not sure what it is yet.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 30, 2014, 09:35:18 PM
It's been a week and my brake lights still work.  It's a Festivus miracle.  I did notice the backup lights come on whenever the transmission is out of gear or in neutral.  Anything to keep from being rear-ended by zealous drivers with poor depth perception.

I reinstalled the filter pods and the stumble seems to have disappeared.  Might be running a little rich.  Unless it's completely cold, it fires up immediately just like it used to.

My immediate plans are to replace the rear shocks with some rebuilt Armstrong levers from Apple Hydraulics.  They're less expensive than the front but seem to have more say-so when it comes to cornering.  It should be about $250 that includes a refundable core charge and shipping.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 03, 2014, 10:55:30 PM
Crappy Chinese-made turn signal switch.  Every time I use the turn signals, my headlights switch off and I have to flip them on high beam to get them to stay on.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Wineslob on August 05, 2014, 03:07:14 PM
Quote
Dammit.  I think I blew out the O2 bung again.


I hate it when that happens.

 :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on August 05, 2014, 04:35:56 PM
Dammit.  I think I blew out the O2 bung again.  This is the second (third?) time it's happened.

Jeez. Might wanna get that thing checked. You blow that thing out more than 2-3 times, you never know what you're gonna run into.

(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/Eupher6/FartFire.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 10, 2014, 10:26:34 PM
Where the hell is the transmission dipstick?  Is it really behind the radio?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on August 11, 2014, 03:49:22 PM
Where the hell is the transmission dipstick?  Is it really behind the radio?

Um, does it even have one??  I don't remember ever having to interface with a transmission dipstick no the MG.  Maybe on the case?  That said, the :rimshot:  reply would be. "Why no, the dipstick is behind the steering wheel."

Ah ha, here is a useful link.  Discouraging as the dickens yes, but useful. 
http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgoc-basic-2.html (http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgoc-basic-2.html)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 11, 2014, 04:11:06 PM
This guy says it's behind the radio. 

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/dipstick_zps83d222fb.jpg)
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/goc.htm
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on August 11, 2014, 04:39:23 PM
One wonders what constitutes an earlier or later model in the link I provided. You know you are in trouble when the instructions begin with 'the dipstick is difficult to remove'  and then mentions using 'garden hose'.   

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWwOJlOI1nU[/youtube]

 :rotf:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 11, 2014, 04:57:25 PM
The rubber-bumper (1974-1/2) model is usually considered "later", but some sources consider those the 1977-1980 models.

I thought the dipstick/fill hole was on the side of the transmission tunnel.  I'm not sure what's under those plugs, though.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on August 11, 2014, 05:44:02 PM
The rubber-bumper (1974-1/2) model is usually considered "later", but some sources consider those the 1977-1980 models.

I thought the dipstick/fill hole was on the side of the transmission tunnel.  I'm not sure what's under those plugs, though.

I will have to see if I can find pics of my '72.  Don't know if I ever posted them.  It was the old chrome bumper which I always thought looked great.  I doubt I have any with the hard top which was a real neat custom job that had a sun roof.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 19, 2014, 08:33:53 PM
What is it with loose wires?

I "fixed" the lights on the right rear quarter.  I grabbed a handful of wires and moved them around.

I should have remembered that from the last time it happened.  Maybe I should start leaving notes to myself on the spots that keep having the same problem.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/postitnotes_zps76e5dbd3.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 05, 2014, 12:22:30 AM
Got the new rebound straps installed and the rear shocks topped off with oil.  Looking forward to a test-drive tomorrow morning.

I still think I need new shocks.  They're all pretty useless.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 07, 2014, 03:51:24 PM
Man did I tear up my back pushing the 'cuda.   :thatsright:  Bad day at Black Rock as they say.  Oil leak, clogged fuel filter, missing like all get out.   :bawl:  I probably should think about a new gas tank.  (and straps and bolts, oh my!!)  She got me into the yard before she quit.  :bawl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 07, 2014, 04:02:10 PM
Damn, that stinks.

I picked up a new tank for the Ford for $250.  The straps were another $75 but they looked like something you could make at home with a pair of pliers and some sheet metal from the hardware store.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 07, 2014, 06:37:38 PM
Awesome.  The new rebound straps made a huge improvement.

I'm just going to have to live with the fact there's no retainer nut/washer on the end of the hanger stud.  I could weld one on there, but I'd just have to take it off to replace the straps again later.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 17, 2014, 05:49:32 PM
What is it with loose wires?

I "fixed" the lights on the right rear quarter.  I grabbed a handful of wires and moved them around.


I thought you were talking about wire wheels for a second.  :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 18, 2014, 10:56:46 PM
I finally found the fill-hole for the rear shocks.  They seem to be in fairly good condition.

My next purchase will probably be new seat covers and foam.  The current seats are so uncomfortable.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 18, 2014, 11:08:19 PM
I finally found the fill-hole for the rear shocks.  They seem to be in fairly good condition.

My next purchase will probably be new seat covers and foam.  The current seats are so uncomfortable.

New foam does wonders for the seats.  They're relatively comfortable afterwards. 

Yeah, the rear fillers are inside the cabin, under the carpet, behind the seats.  They're not that bad to get to, once you know where to look.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 18, 2014, 11:10:03 PM
I looked around for them in the trunk.  I never noticed they were behind the rear seats.

I really need to change the transmission oil.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 18, 2014, 11:11:32 PM
I wish I had held on to that Nissan 5-speed I had.  It would be perfect for this car.

I can probably get another one.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2014, 08:37:38 PM
I wish I had held on to that Nissan 5-speed I had.  It would be perfect for this car.

I can probably get another one.

I have an aluminum flywheel I'm not willing to part with, so I need to find an overdrive transmission that works for me. 

My brother in law has one in a rotting 60s model that I've been hinting to him to sell me. 



The last time  I changed my transmission fluid, I had the transmission out of the car.  I can't tell you how tight it is to do the job.

If memory serves me, there is a plug on the transmission tunnel under the carpet on the passenger side that you can access the fill plug from. 

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2014, 08:44:15 PM
If memory serves me, there is a plug on the transmission tunnel under the carpet on the passenger side that you can access the fill plug from.
On the pre-'68 models, there is.  I pulled both plugs from the side of the transmission tunnel and there's no dipstick under either of them. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2014, 08:50:38 PM
You're right- no dipstick.  I'm pretty sure there is a threaded plug, though. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2014, 08:54:58 PM
Skip to instruction #10:

http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgoc-basic-2.html



Now I'm doubting whether I filled it from inside the car, or underneath.  Either way, it's on the side of the transmission on your model and mine. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2014, 08:57:12 PM
I looked all over that damn transmission while I had it on jacks working on the clutch.  I think when they say "later", they're referring to the '77-'80 models.  That leaves a very vague area between '68-'76 that nobody seems sure of.

I need to pull the radio console anyway.  My head unit stopped working.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2014, 09:09:16 PM
According to Moss, the '68-'80 dipstick is on the top of the transmission.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29014
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2014, 10:37:26 PM
I'm curious now, so I'll just head out to the garage and look right now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2014, 10:42:16 PM
I'm curious now, so I'll just head out to the garage and look right now.
My garage is crammed full of other crap.

When I hit the lottery, I'm moving into the garage and staying there. :mad:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2014, 11:02:43 PM
I really need to clean my garage out, too.  It's a little over 600sq ft with just the B and the 240Z in there as far as cars go, but I can barely move due to all the other junk that's taken over the place. 


If your B is like mine, it's got the dipstick thing that you get to from the access hole behind the radio.  I don't remember mine being stuck particularly bad, but remember I pulled the dipstick with the trans out of the car. 

As far as the plug memory, I guess I was thinking of the way I filled the transmission on the 240Z.  Or not.  Too many cars to remember anymore.  :shrug:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2014, 11:15:44 PM
I think the 240/280 trans was a side-fill unit.  I didn't have mine long enough to find out.

I checked Craigslist for a 280ZX tran and found one for $50 with a burned-out fourth gear.  Dealing with the public is awesome. ::)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2014, 11:32:11 PM
Speaking of Datsuns...  only in Arkansas:

http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/4603088447.html

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2014, 11:55:03 PM
Not for $3,500.  For that price, it should come with a manual.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 26, 2014, 12:59:31 AM
And proper tires. 

At this stage, I would take an auto.  Its not difficult to convert them to stick, and change oit the rear. Chances are good that the previous owners put less stress on the engine with the auto vs. a stick. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on September 27, 2014, 02:12:53 PM
Ah yes, the car house.  Home to about everything but a car in most cases.  I have neighbors who have never had a car inside the garage.  Me?  I could use more space but at least I can get around the cars (well, sort of, crabbing sideways LOL).  I did manage to get the 'Cuda running again after I changed out the fuel filter.  Have sourced a tank and need to see where I go next.  It is holding up another project I want to do.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 19, 2014, 10:10:16 PM
Time to take the car down to JD's and have the door crack repaired.  I will probably pull everything off and toss it in the trunk.  I'm not concerned about paint since the clearcoat on the front half of the car has gone to shit and the entire thing needs to be redone.  That's probably next after my twice-a-year maintenance.  I end up driving the car so little I only need to change the oil at the beginning and end of the season.

The NBCC's car show has been rescheduled since it was rained out.  The new event is at the fairgrounds.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 23, 2014, 05:53:44 PM
The MG has been put away for the year. :(

It's only 15 minutes down the road, which is a lot better than the hour drive I was doing before.  Storage fees are about the same.  Time to order new seat covers, cushions, and probably have the roof replaced, along with a few other small things.  I'm tempted to buy new carpet but it doesn't really need it... I just like the way new carpet looks.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on March 25, 2015, 03:36:37 PM
Nearly $600 for new shocks.  I doubt I'll be as lucky with the Ford.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 05, 2015, 12:21:13 AM
The next time I store one of my cars for the winter, I'm having it towed back home so I don't waste two days trying to find the right tools to get it back on the road.

I have a list of parts a page long of "stuff to haul to the storage unit" to replace the shocks and get this thing running again.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 06, 2015, 05:50:37 PM
Tab A does not fit in to Slot B.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on April 07, 2015, 10:34:23 AM
Tab A does not fit in to Slot B.

In a situation like that, dynamite will fix it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 18, 2015, 11:31:27 PM
Going to be at least another week until the MG is back on the road. Got the rear suspension pulled apart and will have to order more parts. Took the opportunity to order a bunch of small pieces that need to be replaced as well. I'm putting off upholstery and a new top in favor of a paint job and new chrome bits.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: franksolich on April 18, 2015, 11:35:13 PM
Whoa.

You must spend 40 hours a week working, and then the other 128 hours a week working on this.

Do you by any chance ever get an opportunity to sleep?

<<<just curious.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 18, 2015, 11:48:17 PM
Depends on the weather.  I started working on the car at noon today and got home around five, but that includes the >60-minute round trip to the garage, lunch, and a trip to the auto parts store for a ball joint separator.

I probably did 2-3 hours of actual work.  Every time I do something new, I run into problems and have to do extra homework.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: franksolich on April 19, 2015, 09:42:08 AM

I figured it might be something along that scale; I was just twitting you.

You got a lot more dedication than I do.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: AllosaursRus on April 19, 2015, 10:02:29 AM
In a situation like that, dynamite will fix it.

Heh! I've found dynamite is too hard to come by! Diesel fuel and 21-0-0 is a shit load cheaper!
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on April 19, 2015, 10:39:27 AM
Heh! I've found dynamite is too hard to come by! Diesel fuel and 21-0-0 is a shit load cheaper!

Check off another entry to the NSA/DHS watchlist.  :rofl:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: AllosaursRus on April 19, 2015, 12:35:31 PM
Check off another entry to the NSA/DHS watchlist.  :rofl:

Oh hell, I been on that list ever since his highness took office! People hate to see my phone number on their incoming phone list, doncha know! lol!
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 25, 2015, 09:44:44 PM
The MG is ready.  Just needs a bath. :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: franksolich on April 25, 2015, 10:03:29 PM
The MG is ready.  Just needs a bath. :yahoo:

Don't forget to take a picture, and post it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 25, 2015, 10:33:09 PM
Don't forget to take a picture, and post it.
I'm trying to find one of those "free" charity car washes... it's pretty grubby.  They should be all over the place by now, but I haven't seen any this year.

The car should be home tomorrow.  If I don't see any, I'll take care of it myself.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 26, 2015, 08:35:23 PM
Tun signal switch stopped working.  There goes another $200.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on April 26, 2015, 09:34:51 PM
Tun signal switch stopped working.  There goes another $200.
Stick your arm out the window.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 26, 2015, 09:43:42 PM
Stick your arm out the window.
The turn signal switch also controls the headlights.  :-)

I ordered a bunch of other stuff.  The switch was only $80.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on April 26, 2015, 09:50:04 PM
The turn signal switch also controls the headlights.  :-)

I ordered a bunch of other stuff.  The switch was only $80.

They were doing that back in '73?   A lot of American cars still had the pull out switch on the dash and a button on the floor for high beams.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 26, 2015, 10:46:46 PM
They were doing that back in '73?   A lot of American cars still had the pull out switch on the dash and a button on the floor for high beams.
There's an on/off switch on the dashboard.  The turn signal lever has a two-position brightness switch.  The bright headlights work now, but the regular ones do not.

I've ordered a headlight relay that moves the 12v current from the column switch to a relay that connects directly to the battery.  This is the second time I've had to replace this switch.  I pulled the center console and ordered a new horn contact button, a new set of drum brake cylinders, and a couple other small parts that need to be replaced.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 05, 2015, 01:37:04 AM
Replaced the front hoses.  I didn't get around to the rear drums... I'm a little intimidated.  I've never taken a set of drum brakes apart.  Beacoup voodoo.  Black magic.  Scary stuff. 

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vomcvvpv-2Q[/youtube]

I do have one of those compressor-powered super brake bleeders. Once the brakes are done, it's off to JD's for rust repair and then paint.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on May 05, 2015, 02:44:49 PM
I've had drum brakes apart, but I used my Dad's special tools for that. "Anti-rattle things". Never knew they were called that. And I certainly never had the backing plate off the car. Adjustments done with the whole assembly on the car, along with the brake line attached to the wheel cylinder.

PITA, no matter how you look at it. I hate drum brakes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 06, 2015, 12:56:55 AM
It's 2015.  The Toyota Camry is still being sold with drum brakes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 06, 2015, 11:58:02 PM
Time to start shopping for a paint job, but my limit is $4k.  I'd like to keep it around $3k.

There are some rough spots on a couple of repainted areas (base/clear over single-stage) that has completely chipped away, and some rust bubbling up from the rocker panels.  I'll be stripping the car myself and doing some DA sanding in the driveway.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on May 09, 2015, 06:25:17 AM
It's 2015.  The Toyota Camry is still being sold with drum brakes.

with probably ABS as an expensive "option". My 2004 Sienna has drum brakes, and they've been changed out once in 226,000 miles.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 09, 2015, 05:02:23 PM
Pain in the ass springs.  Time for a trip to Harbor Freight.

Half the brake lining is missing from the shoes.  I wonder where it went, because it wasn't inside the drum when I took it off.  Drums look good, though.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/drums_zpsrwmcm56f.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 10, 2015, 01:50:59 AM
Racing junkheaps :)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBnXQZ7q8dk[/youtube]

I got one wheel done today and still forgot a couple of parts.  Tip: start from the bottom and work your way up.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on May 10, 2015, 02:00:47 AM
Time to start shopping for a paint job, but my limit is $4k.  I'd like to keep it around $3k.

There are some rough spots on a couple of repainted areas (base/clear over single-stage) that has completely chipped away, and some rust bubbling up from the rocker panels.  I'll be stripping the car myself and doing some DA sanding in the driveway.


Patina paint if the current paint is original.
A few clear coats will protect it for some time to come.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 10, 2015, 02:07:20 AM

Patina paint if the current paint is original.
A few clear coats will protect it for some time to come.
A previous owner decided to respray the car from the doors forward with base/clear.  The rear half of the car is original single-stage paint, but the clearcoat on the front is peeling like a bad sunburn.  There are rust bubbles on the rocker panels and the "new" paint on the hood has completely chipped off in places.

The car needs a complete paint job and lots of prep.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 10, 2015, 11:15:08 PM
*sigh*

Still not done yet.  For some reason, the old drum won't fit over the new brake shoes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 12, 2015, 10:03:26 PM
Got it.  Had to disconnect the emergency brake cables.  I have a feeling I'll be working on that later.

Three down, one to go.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on May 31, 2015, 09:15:13 PM
Finally got the rear drum brakes bled. What a pain.  Forget all your fancy vacuum bleeders and reverse bleeding. All you need is a really long stick to hold the pedal down. :p

I'm going to have to back off the adjusting nut and continue to bleed them.  Backing the adjuster all the way out makes bleeding them impossible... the less room between the shoes, the easier it is to purge all the air out. 

Pump, bleed, adjust. Rinse and repeat... often.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: cavegal on June 01, 2015, 04:58:35 PM
What color are you painting it?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 01, 2015, 05:00:37 PM
What color are you painting it?
I'm leaving it the same color (Bronze Yellow).
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: cavegal on June 01, 2015, 05:19:01 PM
I'm leaving it the same color (Bronze Yellow).
Is that the sorta butterscotch yellow?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 01, 2015, 05:23:45 PM
Is that the sorta butterscotch yellow?
Yep.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: cavegal on June 01, 2015, 05:34:41 PM
Yep.
Nice color.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 01, 2015, 11:50:39 PM
Getting tired of this rain.  :angryvillagers:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 10, 2015, 09:40:32 PM
I'm tempted to replace the hot-as-fire, leg-burning vinyl seats with seat upholstery that has black fabric inserts.  I'm sure most of you remember climbing into your car with vinyl seats in the middle of summer and losing a few layers of skin.  It's even less fun in a convertible.

I'll be rebuilding the collapsed seats with new foam and it's my car anyway.  I think it might be an improvement.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildbldghT1w[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: thundley4 on June 10, 2015, 10:30:51 PM
I'm tempted to replace the hot-as-fire, leg-burning vinyl seats with seat upholstery that has black fabric inserts.  I'm sure most of you remember climbing into your car with vinyl seats in the middle of summer and losing a few layers of skin.  It's even less fun in a convertible.

I'll be rebuilding the collapsed seats with new foam and it's my car anyway.  I think it might be an improvement.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildbldghT1w[/youtube]

That's the main reason I've always preferred cloth to leather or vinyl.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 12, 2015, 09:01:56 PM
Seat foam ain't cheap. :(
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on June 21, 2015, 09:35:41 PM
It's a hot mess out there.  Your choices are 95° with 50% humidity and direct sunlight or 88° with 70% humidity and mosquitoes.

Finally got the damned parking brake cable removed.  It only took two weeks and required removing all the carpet and the passenger seat.  Once that's done, it's shop time for at least a week (rust repair) followed by paint.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 03, 2015, 10:37:53 PM
Well, shit.  I broke one of the diff cover bolts inside the axle housing. 

Good news, it's not leaking.  Better news, I got the oil changed in the differential for the first time since I bought it and then some, probably five years or more.  The drain/fill plugs looks like it will accept a 1/2-inch socket, but it's tapered on the inside.  I used a 7/16 square key from the hardware store that fit just right.

I found a seeping rubber brake line going to the proportioning valve that was leaking.  I thought my brakes felt a little mushy.  If the rain holds off, I should have this mess finished by Sunday.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 14, 2015, 06:00:35 PM
Did you buy your seat covers yet?  I'd go with cloth if I were you.  I've got leather in mine, and it looks cool, but it isn't worth the fuss.  I don't mind a cold seat in the winter, but it will burn you up in the summertime.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2015, 04:51:20 PM
I did.  I went with the cloth inserts.  They look nice.

I just need to get the brakes working, and it's off to paint.  I think the rear line or the 3-way union is clogged with dirt (the master cylinder had lots of crud in the bottom)... there's no fluid going to the rear brake cylinders.

edit: I removed the 3-way union fitting.  It was so clogged with dirt that I couldn't see through it.  I'll run a pipe cleaner through it and see what happens.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on July 15, 2015, 08:41:15 PM
If you have a spare master cylinder cap, you can make a pressure bleeder for about $15 of materials at a Lowes or Home Depot.  I will never go back to pedal/vacuum bleeding ever again. 

I had to build it to bleed the brakes on one of my Volvos (8 bleeders and three junction boxes).  Before my homemade bleeder, it was the worst car I've ever had the misfortune of trying to bleed out.   After the bleeder, it took all of three minutes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 15, 2015, 09:17:34 PM
I've used Mityvac bleeders with pretty good results.  I did most of the clutch with a Mityvac and finished it by pushing on the slave cylinder.  Pedal bleeding on the MG isn't difficult... you just need a really long stick and some time.  I ran a pipe cleaner through the brass junction.  You could barely see a pinhole of light through it.  Now it looks brand new. 

I've ordered some replacement exterior pieces and weatherstripping.  Once the brakes are done, the car is getting pressure washed and stripped and sent off to paint.  I've got a budget of $4k in addition to fixing the crack of doom and the damned luggage rack holes in the trunk.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 16, 2015, 12:49:59 PM
I got an estimate for the rust repair and paint job.  It's half of what I had budgeted for body work.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 17, 2015, 09:14:51 AM
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/mgbgtd_zpsiemy9zeb.png)

Car for sale.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181805812607
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 18, 2015, 05:02:29 PM
The horn works. :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: txradioguy on July 21, 2015, 06:04:07 AM
Chris's MG project started like this:

(http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploads/cars/mg/4741602.jpg)


And when he's done it's gonna look like this:

(http://images.carpictures.cc/photo/m/00029431_MG_F_MG_Parked_Davidbrussee.jpg)


 :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: obumazombie on July 21, 2015, 02:36:30 PM
^I'd buy that for a dollar.
I wonder if he will bring it to Baconfest ?




edit-ud
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on July 25, 2015, 11:05:04 PM
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

I could have had the brakes done a month ago... that foot-long steel brake line on the passenger side was completely clogged.  It took a metal bicycle cable, a can of brake cleaner, a 150 PSI air compressor, and some some funkadelic Halloween-colored pipe cleaner to clear.  The rest of the brake system is fine because I've already taken the time to bleed all of it.

If I can get everything else done by tomorrow afternoon, I can start stripping the car for paint next week. 

I never claimed to be a mechanic.  Now you have proof.



edit:  It's nice that Moss Motors keeps track of your orders.  One of these days, I will add up all the money I've sent them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on July 26, 2015, 01:00:36 PM
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

I could have had the brakes done a month ago... that foot-long steel brake line on the passenger side was completely clogged.  It took a metal bicycle cable, a can of brake cleaner, a 150 PSI air compressor, and some some funkadelic Halloween-colored pipe cleaner to clear.  The rest of the brake system is fine because I've already taken the time to bleed all of it.

If I can get everything else done by tomorrow afternoon, I can start stripping the car for paint next week. 

I never claimed to be a mechanic.  Now you have proof.



edit:  It's nice that Moss Motors keeps track of your orders.  One of these days, I will add up all the money I've sent them.

That is why there is this thing called double entry book keeping when it comes to a married man and auto restoration.  One set the wife sees and the other with the actual cost for insurance appraisals. 

It promotes connubial bliss. :whistling:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 01, 2015, 01:59:17 PM
The MG is at the paint/body shop.  They're going to fix all the rust spots, weld up the holes from the luggage rack, and the car gets a fresh coat of paint.  I should have it back in a couple of weeks.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 15, 2015, 12:45:50 PM
My car is still in the paint shop. 

The guy's mechanic quit on him, so things have been pushed back another day or two.  I still need to install a new radio, the new seats, and replace the lower A-arm bushings.  The MG radio only uses two wires for power and memory and another two wires for speakers.  I should be able to get that done in a day or two which leaves me with a day and a half for travel.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 15, 2015, 01:14:50 PM
You could always save an hour or so of work and leave out the passenger seat.  You'd have more room for luggage and no room for hitchhikers.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 16, 2015, 11:12:39 PM
Three more days! :hyper:

I've almost got the passenger seat put back together.  The back of the seat went together easily, but I had to buy another bag of kitty litter as a weight to make sure everything with glue on it stuck together.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 18, 2015, 04:50:40 PM
Sneak peek:

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/paintbooth_zpset0yb86j.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 18, 2015, 05:03:34 PM
I can smell the paint fumes from here. 

I can see a DUmmie sneaking into the booth to get a cheap high.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 18, 2015, 05:14:50 PM
I think Pops painted his phone along with the car. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 18, 2015, 05:16:14 PM
I think Pops painted his phone along with the car. :p

(http://www.blogcdn.com/www.mandatory.com/media/2012/10/really-high-guy-meme-wait-what.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 20, 2015, 08:13:25 PM
Still missing a passenger seat and a radio.  I didn't get the car back until after noon today and the floors are still wet.  :(

That bumper looks crooked as shit from this angle.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0038_zpsr6yrudu4.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 20, 2015, 09:19:42 PM
I see you went with the earlier (better looking) grille rather than the fish mouth style.  It looks very nice!

Oh, and your turn signal lenses are on backwards. :tongue:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 20, 2015, 09:25:36 PM
I've always had that grille.  When I bought the car, it had the Barbados & Antigua badge on it.

Wouldn't surprise me if they are on wrong.  Those two guys were a trip. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 20, 2015, 09:32:52 PM
Still having problems with the hazard switch.  No brake lights on the left side and my turn signal/hazard stopped working.  I eventually got the contacts cleaned the old-fashioned way, but I'm going to have to take that thing apart at some point.  I'm just glad I have turn signals and a working horn.  I replaced the brake bulbs with some newer LEDs that had lights on all sides, not just the rear like the ones Moss was selling.  Talk about bright.  Wow.

I just need to get this radio installed.  I'm not driving 1000 miles with nothing to listen to.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 20, 2015, 11:15:09 PM
I'm upset.  I paid for "heavy duty" shocks and still have the bachelor lean.  I was hoping that would take care of it, but the suspension and handling is still mushy.  If I had wanted a car that felt like a 2CV, I would have bought one.

I think the Datsun and BMW may have spoiled me.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1182519
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 20, 2015, 11:31:54 PM
I corrected my bachelor lean with new lowering springs up front.  You'll need to drop the back with lowering blocks as well to keep things even, though. 

I have no idea if new standard height springs will have the same result.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 21, 2015, 12:37:24 AM
The suspension I have now is like whiskey dick.  I don't like it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 21, 2015, 08:15:30 AM
What sort of tires are you running on?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: cavegal on August 21, 2015, 04:35:15 PM
Still missing a passenger seat and a radio.  I didn't get the car back until after noon today and the floors are still wet.  :(

That bumper looks crooked as shit from this angle.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0038_zpsr6yrudu4.jpg)
That car looks great!  Wonderful!
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 23, 2015, 05:52:08 PM
What sort of tires are you running on?
The same tires I've had for the last 2-3 years, the ones I bought new.  I should probably check the pressure.  Radial tires are supposed to be 24-26 PSI... they're probably 32 or higher right now.

One of the lower A-arm bushings is busted and needs to be replaced and I have that same wheel hop between 63-69 MPH on the front right that has been there for the last year or so.  I'm not sure if it's the suspension, swaybar, tire, or something else.  That tire is probably the one that has a nail in it. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 08:27:50 PM
So ronery.

I've been stuck in Independence, MO for the last 24+ hours; this is my second night in this stupid hotel room.  My car crapped out on me yesterday morning on the way out of town.  It started as an intermittent hiccup that ended up in the car not running at all.  I was expecting a problem with the distributor cap so I brought a replacement.  Sure enough, the center contact on the Mallory cap broke (again).  I replaced it with the spare I bought and made it all of five miles. 

I assume the broken part of the cap hit some other parts inside the distributor.  I had it hauled to the nearest garage and had their oldest employee work on it.  I got a phone call earlier today but all I understood was "distributor... wires... unraveled...".  He says it's working now so I will pick it up in the morning.

As a last resort, I've reserved a rental car and found a guy in Kansas City that works on old MGs and Jaguars.  I'll have the car towed to him and come back next week to pick it up.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 08:32:08 PM
That sucks.

I switched to a Pertronix setup inside a rebushed OEM distributor for that reason. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 08:35:50 PM
That sucks.

I switched to a Pertronix setup inside a rebushed OEM distributor for that reason.
I should have thought of that when I was ordering spare parts.  I probably could have bought half a dozen of them for what this is going to cost me.  I just hope I can get back home in time to be back at work.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 08:38:29 PM
What type of distributor are you running?  Is it one of those Mallory dual-point jobs?  I have forgotten.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Eupher on August 25, 2015, 08:38:54 PM
Ugh. You could visit the Truman Library as long as you're in Independence.  :shucks:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 08:39:09 PM
Yes, it's a dual-point Mallory with mechanical advance.  I wonder if a Pertronix unit will even fit.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 08:40:34 PM
Ugh. You could visit the Truman Library as long as you're in Independence.  :shucks:
I'm considering stopping by the WWI memorial.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 08:47:33 PM
If you want, I can pull the ignition setup off of my B and put it on yours so that you can make it home OK.  I don't need to drive my car right now, so you won't be inconveniencing me.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 08:49:25 PM
If you want, I can pull the ignition setup off of my B and put it on yours so that you can make it home OK.  I don't need to drive my car right now, so you won't be inconveniencing me.
I appreciate it, but you don't have to.  I can come back here next week if I have to.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 08:53:11 PM
Well, just let me know.  It's not that big of a deal, probably taking all of five minutes to switch everything over.

I need to retime my car anyways, and pull the distributor to get at that stupid braided oil line that runs just over it.       
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 08:57:31 PM
I'm not even sure what part was replaced.  Probably one of those small bare wires under the cap.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 09:01:44 PM
Does that distributor just have mechanical advance (no vacuum)?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 09:01:56 PM
Does that distributor just have mechanical advance (no vacuum)?
Correct.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 09:05:25 PM
Yeah, you need to rustle up a 25D and throw it on there. 

I had one of those Mallory jobs when I first bought my B, and sold it.  It looked nice, but as I recalled (correctly), no vacuum advance.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 09:07:39 PM
Yeah, you need to rustle up a 25D and throw it on there. 

I had one of those Mallory jobs when I first bought my B, and sold it.  It looked nice, but as I recalled (correctly), no vacuum advance.
What is the difference?

I ended up calling Victoria British in Lenexa.  They gave me the name and phone number for the guy in Kansas City because he had ordered parts from them in the last year.  Pretty nice of them.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 09:16:37 PM
Your original distributor had vacuum and mechanical advance.  You're losing a fair amount of performance and economy by only running with a mechanical advance setup. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 25, 2015, 09:25:08 PM
I thought that might be the case.

I was going through the paperwork that came with the car.  As far as I can tell, I'm the fifth or sixth owner.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 25, 2015, 09:31:41 PM
I don't know if you can even get a vacuum advance for the Mallory that you have. 

If you do get an original distributor, get it rebushed (Advanced Distributors), and have Jeff talk you through whether you need a port or manifold vacuum dashpot.  If you're running the SU carbs with the integrated float bowl, I think those were manifold advance originally, and the separate float bowls ran on port advance.  All that means is which side of the throttle butterfly that your dashpot vacuum hose plugs into.  It does make a difference, though. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 31, 2015, 04:50:50 PM
I heard back from the shop in O'Fallon.  I'm being told the Mallory needs to be replaced with an original distributor.

Looks like it's time to do some shopping.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 31, 2015, 06:57:51 PM
Heh.  What was the reasoning they gave?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 31, 2015, 09:15:45 PM
Heh.  What was the reasoning they gave?
"Kept blowin' points."  :whatever:

I can get a 45D from Moss for $90.  I haven't had any luck finding a 25D for sale.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 31, 2015, 10:36:28 PM
If you want, I can pull the ignition setup off of my B and put it on yours so that you can make it home OK.  I don't need to drive my car right now, so you won't be inconveniencing me.
Would you be willing to send your distributor to the guys in Illinois?  I'll pay for your shipping.  I'd like to be able to get my car back this weekend, but I will need to rent a car to get back up there.  I can return it to you as soon as I get my car back home.

http://www.simonsautorepair.net/

1801 W. US HWY 50
O'Fallon, IL 62269
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 31, 2015, 11:27:31 PM
I might have to move my car the middle of this week. 

I just remembered that I may have a rebuilt spare rolling around out there.  Give me a minute to see if I can locate it. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 31, 2015, 11:38:51 PM
I've got so much shit out in my garage, I can't even remember what I have anymore. 

I didn't find the one I was looking for, but I did find an unused rebuilt 25D 41491 from Advanced Distributors.

Do you want me to next day or second day it to them? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 31, 2015, 11:41:47 PM
I've got so much shit out in my garage, I can't even remember what I have anymore. 

I didn't find the one I was looking for, but I did find an unused rebuilt 25D 41491 from Advanced Distributors.

Do you want me to next day or second day it to them?
Next day.  Shipping shouldn't be more than $50.  I'll call them and let them know to expect it.  Hopefully it will be ready by Friday and I can make arrangements to pay them and drive it home by Monday.

Wait, you have an extra distributor lying around?  Jesus.  The cheapest one I could find was $150.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 31, 2015, 11:43:42 PM
Will do.  Look at this!:

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/Screenshot_2015-08-31-23-39-30_zpsw3dmp4qq.png)

I bet I could find a dead body out in my garage if I dug long enough.

I'll see if I can rustle up a cap and rotor for it, too. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on August 31, 2015, 11:44:04 PM
Pretty.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on August 31, 2015, 11:59:12 PM
Next day.  Shipping shouldn't be more than $50.  I'll call them and let them know to expect it.  Hopefully it will be ready by Friday and I can make arrangements to pay them and drive it home by Monday.

Wait, you have an extra distributor lying around?  Jesus.  The cheapest one I could find was $150.

Yeah, I think I remember why I have this one- I was planning on tripping somewhere, and I needed one that was set up with points that I could swap the entire distributor over instead of fiddling with removing the pertronix in case it died. 

I found a plastic ice cream pail full of distributor bodies and guts while I was out digging.  I might have a complete 25D in it, or out at my parents' place on one of the parts cars. 

I'll have to look. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 12:15:53 AM
Where exactly did you break down?  That place is only about ten miles outside of ESTL.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 12:28:22 AM
I-64E, exit 14 (IL HWY 50).

At least I was able to find a spot in the shade.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 12:32:05 AM
I-64E, exit 14 (IL HWY 50).

At least I was able to find a spot in the shade.

You dodged a bullet there by about ten minutes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 12:33:18 AM
You dodged a bullet there by about ten minutes.
I was "that guy" driving an old car that ran like shit, popping and backfiring with my hazard lights on for a dozen miles.  I barely made it out of St. Louis.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 12:39:51 AM
I was "that guy" driving an old car that ran like shit, popping and backfiring with my hazard lights on for a dozen miles.  I barely made it out of St. Louis.

I would have been sweating profusely.  I'm sure you managed to nearly get ran over several times for each one of those dozen miles. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 12:40:57 AM
I would have been sweating profusely.  I'm sure you managed to nearly get ran over several times for each one of those dozen miles.
I did the last five miles on the shoulder praying I wouldn't get arrested.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 12:12:06 PM
What's your opinion of AccuSpark?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MGA-Lucas-25D-points-Distributor-/191644226790
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 12:35:26 PM
It has been a long time since I heard that brand before.  I think I went with Pertronix over Accuspark because of possible reliability issues. This thread says Jeff was getting rid of a lot of them pretty cheap a while ago, but some guys don't seem to have any problems with them:

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2469219
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 01:57:02 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-New-Lucas-25D4-Distributor-MGA-MGB-/261835595096

I found this one.  The price is decent and it doesn't sound like it would need to be rebushed.  Advanced Distributors has a 3-4 week turnaround.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 02:32:56 PM
I believe I would pull the trigger on that buy it now.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 06:40:39 PM
Done, but it won't be here for a couple of weeks. :(
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 06:58:06 PM
Yeah, that's fine.  Just send me back the other one once you get yours up and going.  No rush.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 07:02:29 PM
Thanks.  Let me know when you can ship it so I can tell those guys to expect it.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 10:06:19 PM
Just my luck.  My mom's Thunderbird isn't charging and all my tools are locked in the MG. :banghead:

I can pick up a multimeter and "borrow" some of my brother's tools.  It's going to cut into my travel time.  She won't be home until Saturday.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 01, 2015, 11:18:28 PM
Thanks.  Let me know when you can ship it so I can tell those guys to expect it.

It left here today, so it should be there tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 01, 2015, 11:34:45 PM
It left here today, so it should be there tomorrow.
I'll call them tomorrow morning.  Thanks.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 02, 2015, 10:55:10 AM
 :bawl: You forgot to send the rest of the distributor... it's missing the rotor, cap, condenser, points, and screws. :(

I can order them from Moss Motors and have them delivered tomorrow if you don't have the extra parts.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 02, 2015, 12:40:40 PM
Yeah, send them from Moss.  I didn't find any that I could be sure were good in my bucket of parts. 

An auto parts store might have them as well.  They won't be great but they should get you home.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 02, 2015, 01:35:31 PM
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29062

I'm not sure what I need to order.  There are some parts I don't recognize.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 02, 2015, 03:23:14 PM
Point and condensor set 4 , cap 2A,  rotor 3, and terminal lead 16.  Did you try calling a local parts store there?  All of those except for maybe the terminal lead are off the shelf items here, or like an hour wait, max.  Had I known, I would have sent the questionable parts with it.  I didn't want to see you sit somewhere again, though. 

Now, the Mallory I got rid of used the same distributor hold-down clamp 19 as my OEM dizzy.  I didn't think about that, but you may try to remember what your Mallory distributor is held to the block with. 

I'm not sure what screws they're talking about.  The distributor cap clips on.  Any other screws would be with a point and condenser set. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 08, 2015, 04:22:27 PM
That guy finally shipped the 25D I paid him for over a week ago.

'bout ****ing time.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 10, 2015, 02:49:57 PM
My 25D arrived.  Now I have a use for one of those hoses with a screw jammed in it.

It came with an original Lucas box.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 10, 2015, 04:36:37 PM
Nice! 

You probably can't beat all of the screws and hoses with bolts in them that I've got on my 240Z intake manifold, though.   :-)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 10, 2015, 06:19:53 PM
Shipped.  It should be in Illinois Monday morning.

With any luck, I can pick it up next Saturday and drive home.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 12, 2015, 02:32:01 PM
I'm considering doing this over the winter.  It's a quarter of the price of an overdrive or supercharger unit, but I wish I hadn't tossed out that 280ZX transmission I bought a few years ago (one of the downfalls of not owning a garage at the time).

http://032516d.netsolhost.com/mgb_kit_description.html
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 17, 2015, 03:10:11 PM
"Hurrah, our M.G. Magna is ready!"
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAYIz5BLKm8[/youtube]
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2015, 01:35:58 PM
Got a call from Simons today.  They said the old Mallory distributor is "stuck" and they are going to have to break it to get it out.

Never having taken one out, I'm a little confused.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2015, 03:02:48 PM
Got a call from Simons today.  They said the old Mallory distributor is "stuck" and they are going to have to break it to get it out.

Never having taken one out, I'm a little confused.

:wtf2:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2015, 03:23:30 PM
Maybe you should give them a call and ask them what the hell they're doing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: freedumb2003b on September 22, 2015, 03:41:21 PM
Are we still working on this car?

By now you could have sent the components to different CCers, let each fix one, the send them back and all you had to do was reassemble

:) :) :)
 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 22, 2015, 03:42:59 PM
There's a reason they're called Dumb Previous Owners.  That Mallory was a waste of money.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 22, 2015, 03:57:16 PM
The only thing I can think of is that the Mallory is not a dissimilar metal and fused itself to the engine case.  Other than that, I'm at a loss at to what they are doing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2015, 12:59:56 PM
Finally getting my car back this weekend.  My bill was $275 plus the cost of the new distributor.  :whatever:

Maybe I'll rent something nice from Enterprise for the drive back up there.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 25, 2015, 02:04:08 PM
What do they have available?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 25, 2015, 02:18:28 PM
Everything from a Kia Rio to a Chrysler 300. 

Standard and full-sized cars are cheaper to rent than the intermediate/compact/subcompact cars.  Go figure.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 27, 2015, 10:53:19 PM
What a ****ing mess of a day.  Thanks for the flat tire, guys.,

Got the car back home.  The OEM Lucas/MG distributor compared to the Mallory POS is night and day.  I got the carbs out of adjustment and they're running rich... the plugs are fouled and it barely idles after a few hundred miles.

I can't believe I drove through three states and half of Davidson County without being pulled over for a non-working tail light.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on September 28, 2015, 09:05:16 AM
Its home though!  :yahoo:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 28, 2015, 10:12:41 PM
An interesting thing about the MG B... if you're stuck in your run-of-the-mill cold British drizzle, as long as you're moving, the positive air pressure around the car is enough to keep you dry.  Maybe that's why the tonneau covers are such a popular item.  I was puttering along though southern IL in weather just like that until the sky opened up and I got dumped on by a torrential downpour.  Zero visibility.  I barely got off the road to get the roof pulled over my head before getting soaked or running into a ditch.

I knew one of my tail lights were out and I flipped and flopped that hazard switch hoping to get it working.  It looks like I will probably need to take it apart and clean it.  I am still amazed that I wasn't pulled over, arrested, or crashed into.

I didn't get to see the blood moon but I did get to see the Mississippi River at sunset.  It was amazing.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 28, 2015, 10:25:49 PM
I remember getting off the plane on the tarmac at Heathrow, before they forced everyone to deplane at the terminal.  Grey.  Cold, dark and grey as far as the eye could see.  If it had been the United States with a sky like that, you could have expected 2-3 inches of rain in an hour, but the weather never changed.  It just was like that... cold and grey with some drizzle or the constant wetness that never seemed to stop.

Cold and grey.  Sometimes, being stuck in the north Atlantic has it's drawbacks.  Hyde Park is an amazing feat of gardening and landscaping, though.  The grass was perfectly manicured and soft.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: freedumb2003b on September 29, 2015, 12:26:29 AM
I remember getting off the plane on the tarmac at Heathrow, before they forced everyone to deplane at the terminal.  Grey.  Cold, dark and grey as far as the eye could see.  If it had been the United States with a sky like that, you could have expected 2-3 inches of rain in an hour, but the weather never changed.  It just was like that... cold and grey with some drizzle or the constant wetness that never seemed to stop.

Cold and grey.  Sometimes, being stuck in the north Atlantic has it's drawbacks.  Hyde Park is an amazing feat of gardening and landscaping, though.  The grass was perfectly manicured and soft.

And grey.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on September 29, 2015, 12:51:51 AM
And grey.
Yes. 

Yes, it was.  It was like being stuck in a rerun of "Mr. Smith Goes To Washington".
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 02, 2015, 11:38:05 PM
I wonder if the nail-in-tire flat wasn't responsible for the horrible shaking I had above 64 MPH on my drive up to Kansas City before my breakdown. I ended up moving the oversized spare to the front left so the car would steer on to the shoulder and not into oncoming traffic, and rotating the front left to the same-sized rear tire on the right. The small nail and puncture would have been enough to cause the terrible shaking at the time.

My drive home from IL and TN was between 60-80 MPH and went smoothly. I wanted to get home.  It's nice having evenly-balanced tires in an old car. :p
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 06, 2015, 10:26:37 AM
"There.  I fixed it."

This is what's left of the old distributor.  There are more pieces of metal in the frame rails.

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/IMG_2177_zpsy9ismg7o.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/IMG_2178_zpsrjsyduz5.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/IMG_2180_zps9oaffq0c.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/IMG_2179_zpsmyt7shrc.jpg)

(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/IMG_2187_zpsgkd0mpv2.jpg)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 07, 2015, 06:50:59 PM
99% sure that seized to the block at the base. 

Why didn't they use a tiny slide hammer to get it out? 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 07, 2015, 11:28:34 PM
I have no idea.

I have no brake lights... the hazard switch is fried.  I pulled it hoping I could take it apart to clean it, but I may have to order a new one. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: zeitgeist on October 10, 2015, 01:08:15 PM
99% sure that seized to the block at the base. 

Why didn't they use a tiny slide hammer to get it out?

Patience (applied with penetrating oi)  is a virtue.  Heat is nice too.  But that looks more like " that mother &@#!! 's coming outa there NOW!!"  Alas, in my youth I probably did loose patience and go to the slugging wrench a bit too soon too.  And yes, it is always easier to use heat and oil rather than a drill to get out broken studs and other stuff.  Work hardening is a metallurgical fact!!  Unwritten law:  Just before it comes free it snaps off at flush,  strips,  or elongates beyond use.

I was at a show last weekend with a great '61 A and '73  B.  Also one 'real' and several kit car Cobras.  Plus TWO  Detomaso Panteras. http://jalopnik.com/jay-leno-explains-what-makes-the-de-tomaso-pantera-so-a-1595538214
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 10, 2015, 02:02:19 PM
Patience (applied with penetrating oi)  is a virtue.  Heat is nice too.  But that looks more like " that mother &@#!! 's coming outa there NOW!!"
I was billed for roughly 3 hours of labor.  I don't think 'patience' is in their dictionary when they're getting paid by the hour.

I missed the annual car show today.  It would have been nice to have more than 24 hours notice.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: freedumb2003b on October 10, 2015, 02:20:40 PM
I was billed for roughly 3 hours of labor.  I don't think 'patience' is in their dictionary when they're getting paid by the hour.

I missed the annual car show today.  It would have been nice to have more than 24 hours notice.

Well, now you have a year's advance notice.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 11, 2015, 04:23:10 PM
First wash and the crack of doom immediately reappears.  "Patched", my rosy red ass.  You just painted over it. :whatever:
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 11, 2015, 04:35:06 PM
Ok, now that would cheese me off.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 11, 2015, 07:51:22 PM
Ok, now that would cheese me off.
"Cheesed" isn't the word I would use.  I wonder what else he cut corners on that I paid him for.

I have a two-year warranty on paint.  I'm going to have to take the car to JD and have him fix it and take it back to have it repainted again.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 11, 2015, 08:26:27 PM
Have you taken off the door card and peeked up there to see what he did or did not do to secure the crack?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 11, 2015, 08:43:21 PM
No, I haven't done anything.  I couldn't find my keys yesterday, so I'm behind on getting the car cleaned up after driving it home.  The only thing I accomplished today was washing off the dirt.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 14, 2015, 06:45:05 PM
Finally got the lights working again.  All of my circuits had continuity, so I took everything apart, cleaned it, and put everything back together.  I ended up replacing those nice, expensive LED bulbs with standard filament bulbs just to make sure it wasn't a voltage issue.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on October 14, 2015, 10:02:49 PM
Even if I'm not driving mine for a spell, I will vigorously flip all of the switches to make sure they stay in shape now and again.

Of course, yours has sort of been down for some time while it's been sitting for paint, or what have you, so I'd like to think that's why it quit for you.

Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on October 19, 2015, 08:58:23 AM
Weird.  I left the house this morning and my right turn signals were flashing.  I grabbed the stalk and moved it but the lights wouldn't turn off.  I unplugged the two harnesses under the steering column and the blinker timer.  It finally shut off.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 08, 2015, 06:29:03 PM
Fixed the carbs and now the horn doesn't work.  This shit never stops.  :whatever:

The 'factory settings' for the HIF4 cabs are way too rich.  I ended up leaning them out another two whole turns.  I came across a quick way to check fuel mix with the UniSyn.  If the idle drops when you put it over the mouth of the carb, you're too rich.  It's a quick and easy way to get the fuel mix adjusted somewhat correct.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 17, 2015, 01:19:46 AM
The car runs but it fouls the plugs after only a few hours.  I'm going to take the carbs off and rebuild them, but I'm afraid it might be something worse.  The fouling problem has gotten worse since I got the car home.  There is oil on the plug threads and black soot on the insulator.  The old plugs are fouled so bad the car will not start.

Confused.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on November 17, 2015, 08:43:58 AM
Has this engine been rebuilt?  Miles? 

Were the plugs threaded all the way into the head? 

Do your throttle shafts bind on the carb housings?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 17, 2015, 09:09:42 AM
I have no idea if the engine has been rebuilt.  It has 55,000 miles on the odometer (or 155,00... it's impossible to know).

Plugs were threaded and torqued to 26 ft/lb.

There's no binding on the throttle shafts as far as I can tell.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 19, 2015, 11:04:26 PM
I wonder if I may have a bad ignition coil.  It would account for the carbon fouling.  The fouling was visible before the old MSD distributor crapped out, but it was very mild and didn't really affect the overall performance of the car.  I was able to drive it to and around MO with no issues.  Would a busted distributor damage an ignition coil?

I made it the 300 miles from IL to TN but by the time I got home, the plugs were fouled to the point where the car would barely idle.  I replaced the plugs after getting the car home but they fouled even quicker and now the car will not start.  I have another set of NGK plugs (previous plugs were Champion N9Y).  If the car fires up with the new plugs, I'm pulling the coil and testing it.

I'm hoping that's where my problem is, because the only thing that has changed on the car is in the ignition system.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on November 19, 2015, 11:41:47 PM
In short, anything that can make your spark have to travel further or contend with arcing can burn up your coil.  This would include your distributor cap. 
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 19, 2015, 11:44:45 PM
The fouling seems to be getting progressively worse.  I haven't tested the coil, but then I haven't done a compression test either.  The 25D I purchased was described as "like new" with new points, rotor, cap, and condenser.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 19, 2015, 11:51:13 PM
There's an MG A on tonight's new episode of Jay Leno's Garage on CNBC.  :)
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on November 20, 2015, 12:00:06 AM
I'll bet if you drove it for a prolonged distance with that wonky distributor that you did in your coil.  How old does your coil look to be?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 20, 2015, 12:18:56 AM
It's blue. :rofl:

All of the labels have worn on.  I won't say it looks new, it's definitely been there for a while.  The previous owner claimed to have the car for five years and I've had it for the last three.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on November 20, 2015, 11:07:08 AM
It's blue. :rofl:

All of the labels have worn on.  I won't say it looks new, it's definitely been there for a while.  The previous owner claimed to have the car for five years and I've had it for the last three.

Oh, I bet it's the exact same coil I had on mine when I bought it.  It's a bosch blue coil:

(http://image.mamotorworksmedia.com/imageproc.aspx?img=production/website/sku/108/108076/108076-(1).jpg&h=400&w=400)

Mine crapped out soon after I got it, or was pretty weak.  Anyways, I replaced it. 

I have most of the receipts for my car, and I think the last I could find the coil being replaced was 77 or 78.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on November 20, 2015, 12:04:10 PM
Yeah, that's it. 

Fifty bucks for a Bosch coil.  I'll save myself $20 and buy the Duralast.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 29, 2015, 06:15:28 PM
Christmas is finally over -- it's been a busy few weeks not working on either car.  I finally replaced the ignition coil, wires, plugs, and rebuilt both carburetors.  I didn't see anything wrong with either carburetor.  The float levels were a little high so I lowered both of them.  I still need to reconnect the fuel lines but I should be able to go for a drive tomorrow.

55º and mostly cloudy Wednesday.  Should be a fine day.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 30, 2015, 08:50:36 PM
Well, ****.  My battery's dead and the carburetors are leaking around the base plates - both of them.  I don't know if they're overflowing or just loose.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: BattleHymn on December 30, 2015, 08:51:56 PM
Well, ****.  My battery's dead and the carburetors are leaking around the base plates - both of them.  I don't know if they're overflowing or just loose.

Do you have HI or HS style carbs?
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on December 30, 2015, 11:20:44 PM
HIF
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 15, 2016, 01:41:38 AM
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE[/youtube]

This is the kind of car maintenance I can get behind.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 17, 2016, 04:18:23 PM
Weird.  After rebuilding the carburetors, I had to back off the idle and fast idle screws completely to get the RPM down below 1000. 

I'll have to drive it around for a little bit to check the condition of the plugs.  If they don't foul, I'll probably leave it alone.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on January 28, 2016, 11:12:42 PM
I bought a set of Bridgestone Affinity Touring (http://www.firestonetire.com/tires/affinity/affinity-touring) tires to replace the worn and busted Pirellis on my daily-driver Camry and I think I love them.  They are sticky and grip like mad.  I'm seriously considering ditching the old Falken tires on the MG and buying a set of these.  They're a little noisy on braking, but they feel great.

I just need to find out if they sell them in 14-inch sizes.
Title: Re: 1973 MG B
Post by: Chris_ on April 23, 2016, 09:50:06 PM
I think I might have broken something.

Not paying attention, I turned the key with the car in reverse.  Everyone knows what happens when you do that.  Now all I get is a buzzing noise when I try to start the car.

:thatsright: