The Conservative Cave
Interests => Around the House & In the Garage => Topic started by: Chris_ on June 20, 2008, 07:31:50 PM
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(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3120/1981cb750c1kp2.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3120/1981cb750c1kp2.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8712/1981cb750c2ca3.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8712/1981cb750c2ca3.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3424/1981cb750c4zc0.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c4zc0.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6553/1981cb750c3ek3.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c3ek3.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/32/1981cb750c9ox6.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c9ox6.jpg)
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/7508/1981cb750c8pg4.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c8pg4.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8413/1981cb750c7rs9.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c7rs9.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/5088/1981cb750c6fm4.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c6fm4.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3589/1981cb750c5lk9.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1981cb750c5lk9.jpg)
It's not the cleanest bike in the world, but it's mine.
Tomorrow after work, I have to find a trickle charger for the battery and I will probably remove the brake master cylinder for rebuilding. After that will be to trace and remove the Christmas tree of lights the previous owner attached to the electrical system and to inspect the rest of the bike for road-worthiness. I'll have to see if I can put it up on a stand without killing myself in the process.
Anyone who can find a pair of tank emblems for it, please let me know. Pretty please? You have no idea how hard it is to find twenty-year old trim. Ugh.
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Looks like that project will keep you busy for awhile.
Congrats on it finally arriving!
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I'm gonna replace those screw covers on the fairing with spikes or some shit like that. :-)
That seat looks so sad. :( Poor seat. Needs a vinyl repair kit.
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Glad to see it finally got delivered. :cheersmate: Looks great, despite the problems.
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Anyone who can find a pair of tank emblems for it, please let me know. Pretty please? You have no idea how hard it is to find twenty-year old trim. Ugh.
I found them once, you are on your own. :lmao:
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Got all those crappy lights pulled off. It looks like he wired them into the horn which is connected to the lights and turn signals. The lights were unplugged from the fuse box. I won't be able to check it until I get the battery charged up.
Anybody know where I should dispose of the gasoline? I'm not sure how much is still in the tank or the carburetors. I suppose I could just take it to the gravel lot across the street and burn it. :p
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Got all those crappy lights pulled off. It looks like he wired them into the horn which is connected to the lights and turn signals. The lights were unplugged from the fuse box. I won't be able to check it until I get the battery charged up.
Anybody know where I should dispose of the gasoline? I'm not sure how much is still in the tank or the carburetors. I suppose I could just take it to the gravel lot across the street and burn it. :p
The best way to get rid of old gas is to use it. You can mix it in your gas tank with plenty of "new" gas. If you think it's got metal or rust in it, run it through a filter first.
Otherwise, contact your local city. I know here we have a special place where we can drop of any hazardous waste.
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So it's okay to mix it with fresh gas? They rebuilt the carburetors for the guy last June. I'm guessing there's not much in the tank if they had to take them off. Today was a success. Got the seat taped up with some black tape -- looks good enough for me. It blended in perfectly. Got the battery on a trickle charger right now and I picked up the goo for an oil change and brake job. Brake pads look good, so I'm going to bleed them tomorrow.
Other than the lights and horn, I'll have this thing running by Wednesday.
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So it's okay to mix it with fresh gas? They rebuilt the carburetors for the guy last June. I'm guessing there's not much in the tank if they had to take them off. Today was a success. Got the seat taped up with some black tape -- looks good enough for me. It blended in perfectly. Got the battery on a trickle charger right now and I picked up the goo for an oil change and brake job. Brake pads look good, so I'm going to bleed them tomorrow.
Other than the lights and horn, I'll have this thing running by Wednesday.
Yeah, I checked online before posting. Just make sure it's diluted well with new gas and it should be fine.
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So it's okay to mix it with fresh gas?
No. Not in your bike.
Don't take the chance of "gumming up" the rebuilt carbs.
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So it's okay to mix it with fresh gas?
No. Not in your bike.
Don't take the chance of "gumming up" the rebuilt carbs.
That's what I was thinking. I really don't want to take that chance.
I broke one of the side covers taking it off. :bawl:
I did manage to tape it back together. I'm not going to worry about it.
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I'm going to be a one-note borefest until I get to ride this thing. So, here's another picture:
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4136/1981cb750c10xh2.jpg)
I might post another picture of the taped-up seat. It actually looks pretty nice.
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I'm going to be a one-note borefest until I get to ride this thing. So, here's another picture:
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4136/1981cb750c10xh2.jpg)
I might post another picture of the taped-up seat. It actually looks pretty nice.
It cleaned up really nice!
Looking good.
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So it's okay to mix it with fresh gas?
No. Not in your bike.
Don't take the chance of "gumming up" the rebuilt carbs.
That's what I was thinking. I really don't want to take that chance.
I broke one of the side covers taking it off. :bawl:
I did manage to tape it back together. I'm not going to worry about it.
I think you can think of some ways to get rid of the old fuel. :naughty: The 4th of July is just around the corner!
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So it's okay to mix it with fresh gas?
No. Not in your bike.
Don't take the chance of "gumming up" the rebuilt carbs.
That's what I was thinking. I really don't want to take that chance.
I broke one of the side covers taking it off. :bawl:
I did manage to tape it back together. I'm not going to worry about it.
I think you can think of some ways to get rid of the old fuel. :naughty: The 4th of July is just around the corner!
I don't want some asshole neighbor calling the police on me. :whatever:
I'll dump it in the gravel lot across the street.
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My barber likes to rebuild old Hondas. He strips them down and replaces or repairs and cleans every part on them. Drives it to his shop and when someone offers him enough money he sells it and starts on another project. The dude is one of those cross country iron bucket award freaks. He is planning one to AK.
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I wish I was that good. It's been over ten years since I had a motorcycle, and I've forgotten almost everything I learned. The stupid battery had an "extension" cable connecting the positive terminal to the starter solenoid.
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Nice bike. My first one was a 74' 750 "K", much different than the model you have. Then I bought a 81' Yamaha Seca 900 new in 86' (talk about NOS!) It was like going from a Volkswagen to a Ferrari. :bolt:
I sold that in 96' and haven't ridden since. With gas prices the way they are I'm thinking about getting another bike.
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IT'S ALIVE! :hyper:
Got the bike running. Put in fresh gas and installed the fully-charged battery. Something odd - the starter will still crank w/ the starter switch in the 'OFF' position. I tried to start it with the switch in the 'OFF' position and the fuel valve closed.
:whatever:
Opened the fuel valve, turned the ignition switch to the 'ON' position, and opened the choke.
*sputter* *sputter* VROOOM!!!!!!!
It was only runnig with the choke and/or throttle open. Close one or both and the thing eventually slowed down and died. I found the idle speed screw and turned it until the bike idled at 1000 rpm. Viola! I bought some 1/4" fuel line from the hardware store and replaced some of the more corroded fuel lines. I bought five feet of tubing. I'm hoping that's enough to eventually replace all of it.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1981cb750c11.jpg)
The next step is to rebuild this crusty thing so that I actually have brakes to stop with. Unfortunately, that window isn't replaceable so I have to buy an entirely new body, but it's only $30 with shipping. Honda used the same master cylinder for nearly a decade on dozens of models. After that, it's just a matter of dropping in the new piston and bleeeding the front brakes.
Still have to get the bike titled, tagged, and registered. Yay, bureaucracy.
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Congrats Chris :cheersmate: While you're replacing the brakes, you might want to consider replacing the brake lines also.
They hydraulic brake line? I can't realy tell what kind of condition its in because its wrapped in plastic. It looks okay. The rear drums definitely need new cables. I'll worry about that tomorrow after I read up on it. I'm taking this a tiny step at a time. Working at 6am really doesn't help because I'm too tired to care about anything by the time I get home.
The guy I sit next to at work thinks I have the patience of a saint. "Got that bike runnin' yet?" "Nope." Of course, this is the dude with a H-D 1200 Sportster sitting in his parent's garage while he complains about his 1-hour commute into town. :p
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this is the dude with a H-D 1200 Sportster sitting in his parent's garage while he complains about his 1-hour commute into town.
Same kind of guys that think it's "normal" to pay $2000 for a cyl bore job (only 2 cyl mind you) because it's a HD. :mental: Probably dosen't want to wear it out. :-)
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It needs a little more work. The clutch cable is very stiff and I'm wondering if it has the original spark plugs (at 20,000 miles). They should probably be changed. I think the previous owner put in a larger jet somewhere, because this thing comes off idle like a monster. I found some extra needle jets and springs in the tool compartment. I cleaned out the carbs with some regular carb cleaner, Seafoam for the gas tank, and replaced most of the rubber hoses. It runs great but I haven't had a chance to ride it. It still needs brakes.
I found a fix that another bike shop is using for their older and vintage master cylinders. What this shop was doing was replacing the master cylinder window with a piece of same-sized watch crystal and JB Weld. They said they had done about 50 of them with no problems. I ordered a new crystal to replace the window but for some reason, it has not been delivered. I was just thinking that I need to call them in the morning. Still have a couple small wiring issues to deal with. The left-side turn signal does not blink. Other than that I think everything works. Once I get the brakes working, I'll be able to get this thing registered and on the road.
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Hooray for JB Weld.
I picked up a 17mm watch crystal. I'm glad I took the m/c body with me because I had to have the crystal sanded down to fit. Mixed up some JB Weld, lined the inside of the window opening and the outside seam. It looks like a kindergarten art project, but I think it worked. I'll find out in 24 hours.
(http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/9955/mastercylinderafterwt5.jpg)
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Gaaaarghh!! :maddernhell:
okay, I feel better now.
(http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/9576/pistonassemblyfk5.jpg)
Old piston is out. Finally.
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Okay, I'm glad I took a picture of that because I just dropped the whole thing on the floor. :rofl:
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One last picture
(http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4135/bmcfinishedgq9.jpg)
The bike is 99% done. The brakes get done tomorrow morning.
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HELP!! :bawl:
Both bleeder valves (regular screw-in types) on the front brake calipers are rusted, busted, and broken. One of them is mostly intact but the previous owner used a freaking wood screw to close it. The rusty screw broke off at the top of the bleeder valve. The other bleeder valve is rusted and mostly crushed from where I tried to loosen it using a pair of vise grips.
Do gas torches work? I can get one for ten bucks. I don't want to damage the caliper or the piston since OEM calipers are $300 each. I could probably replace them with generic brake calipers since they're mounted to brackets that bolt to the front forks.
I was considering using a high-wattage soldering iron to do spot-heating because it could fit inside the bleeder valve (well, the one that doesn't have a screw stuck in it). I'm concerned it wouldn't be hot enough to loosen the valve.
I could just drill out the bleeder valve, but I don't know where to find over-sized bleeder valves for this bike.
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Okay, I'm glad I took a picture of that because I just dropped the whole thing on the floor. :rofl:
:-)
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HELP!! :bawl:
Both bleeder valves (regular screw-in types) on the front brake calipers are rusted, busted, and broken. One of them is mostly intact but the previous owner used a freaking wood screw to close it. The rusty screw broke off at the top of the bleeder valve. The other bleeder valve is rusted and mostly crushed from where I tried to loosen it using a pair of vise grips.
Do gas torches work? I can get one for ten bucks. I don't want to damage the caliper or the piston since OEM calipers are $300 each. I could probably replace them with generic brake calipers since they're mounted to brackets that bolt to the front forks.
I was considering using a high-wattage soldering iron to do spot-heating because it could fit inside the bleeder valve (well, the one that doesn't have a screw stuck in it). I'm concerned it wouldn't be hot enough to loosen the valve.
I could just drill out the bleeder valve, but I don't know where to find over-sized bleeder valves for this bike.
All it really needs it to be hot enough to help get whatever is gluing it shut to soften , I use a combination of a MAPP gas or acetylene torch and a spray lubricant / dewatering product like CRC / WD40 to loosen bolts and the like that are stuck. Ideally the heat softens ,then WD40 assists in washing out the goop that has locked the thread on.
Never know, the previous owner might have used loctite on the thing as well.
Giving them a light tap can help as well. Clearly the smaller the thread and fittings the lighter you tap it.
The one with the screw in it will present a problem and is probably best if you just replace the valve if that's possible, I'd have to think on how to actually remove the screw without doing more damage than is easily repairable.
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Some progress, none of it good. Tried to remove the rusted bleeder valve with a screw extractor. The extractor broke off into the bleeder hole. Got the caliper seperated into two parts and found that the piston is welded in place and will not come out. More rust. So I'm looking at $200 to replace one upper caliper, piston, and gasket (if they're even available) or I can try to find something that will bolt into place from another bike. And I still haven't touched the brakes on the other side of the wheel. Those are in even worse shape.
Old vehicles are fun. Yay. :p
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I can't do anything with them, they're going to have to be thrown away. The pistons are fused to the caliper. And it's not surface rust... they look rotten. No wonder I couldn't bleed them.
I found a place that has a pair for $100. Good deal, but I need to know if they can be rebuilt.
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Found a single caliper (left side) for $25 on ebay, but it doesn't have a 'Buy Now' option. I hate eBay. With my luck, it would be $75 before the bidding was done.
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Well, I was going to scream.............STOP!!!! but..............too late. A machine shop could have removed the bleeders or re-machined the bleeds to fit a larger size. The frozen pistons can also be removed, but probably destroyed in the process. I'm not sure if a rebuild kit would contain pistons.
You might want to find out what models shared the same calipers, might help with the search. Also, if you have a "U-Pull It" wrecking yard you could find what you need.
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You might want to find out what models shared the same calipers, might help with the search. Also, if you have a "U-Pull It" wrecking yard you could find what you need.
I scoured the internets... the only thing I've seen that fits are calipers from the same series bike over a two-year period. Pretty slim pickings.
Someone has to have done a brake upgrade on a CB-series bike, but I haven't found one.
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SOLD!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Honda-CB750-F-Used-Front-Brake-Calipers_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35581QQihZ006QQitemZ160167405535QQtcZphoto
The bleeder valves look relatively new and clean. At least they don't have a wood screw jammed into it to keep it closed. :whatever:
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Wooo!! :hyper:
Finally got the carbs set up right. Had to re-set the pilot screws to the correct position (3 turns from seat) and correct the idle screw. Now I don't get that funky high-RPM racing after giving it a little gas. Smooth, even throttle... runs like a dream.
Now all I need are brakes and I can go for a ride.
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Now all I need are brakes and I can go for a ride.
Yep, brakes are a good thing!
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Anyone got any advice on growing a second wrist or an extra set of knuckles? I missed one of the pilot screws on the carburetor and can NOT get my hand in there.
I obviously need more tools. :p
Yep, brakes are a good thing!
They got mailed yesterday. Hoping they'll be here by Wednesday.
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Anyone got any advice on growing a second wrist or an extra set of knuckles? I missed one of the pilot screws on the carburetor and can NOT get my hand in there.
I obviously need more tools. :p
Yep, brakes are a good thing!
They got mailed yesterday. Hoping they'll be here by Wednesday.
Would removing the airbox help??
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Would removing the airbox help??
The pilot screws sit in front of the carburetor up against the motor -- the airbox is on the other side. I can't get my figers past the first carb to get to the second one. I think I can use one of those midget screwdrivers (short and fat) tomorrow. Shouldn't be too much of a problem.
Did I mention UPS ground is slow as dirt? My brakes have been sitting in Portland, OR since Friday.
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Nice bike. I just (about 3 months ago) gave away a matching pair of 1975 Honda 360 CBTs. One red and one green. I had ridden one some off and on for a few years and the other was just taking up space in the pack house, the red one was relegated there also after buying and getting my old Harley like I wanted it.
I may have been crazy for giving them away but, the dude (close friend) is already half way through the red one restoring it...says he is going to do them both for him and his wife to use.
I ended up with the Hondas after the elderly man that owned both broke his hip falling turning into his driveway. His wife sold them both to me for a song. I got my money's worth out of them with use and wanted to see good use come of these 2 stock bikes and nobody wanted them for that....so when I found someone interested in restoring them (they were actually in extremely good shape)...I gave him a deal he could not refuse. :cheersmate:
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The CB is a nice bike, but I don't think you could talk me into buying a 350.
The new brake calipers showed up today. :)
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I'm still dealing with electrical issues. Namely, where the hell does that ONE green wire go? I made a list of all the green wires last night... time to play the Elimination Game.
Futzed with the rear brake drum over the weekend, so that is good to go. Also need a new clutch cable. I hope I don't need a new clutch to go with it.
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If you are ever in NC and need parts for that bike, a town near us has a Honda dealership has a two story warehouse full of wrecks and parts bikes. I had an old old Honda dirt bike that I needed a front rim and brake assembly for, well after half the morning crawling around the warehouse, jackpot - 2 just like mine with loads of good parts.
It is Currie Chainsaw (weird name for a Honda Dealer) in Lumberton NC. They are pretty weird about letting people go in there if they don't know you but, they will go and look for what you need and get back to you.
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I'll check them out if I need something. Thanks.
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After much research, I found that the extra green wire is exactly that... an extra wire. It's there as a ground for circuit testing or for accessories (some models came with a radio). Which means there is something else causing my blinkers to act funny.
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One side doesn't blink... turn it on, and it stays on. I don't remember if the running lights are working either. I know the tail light doesn't work.
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And the piston on one of these new calipers seems to be stuck. Damn.
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Pff.. not a biggie, you were going to take apart and clean 20+ year old calipers anyways right... :uhsure:
Stop readin' my mind. :lmao:
I'm online right now looking for a schrader valve with a metric thread on it that I can screw into one of the bolt holes. I was going to try to use an air compressor to push the piston out. Beyond that, I'm not really sure what I can do.
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Woohoo! :cheersmate:
(http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/9095/freecaliperseu3.jpg)
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Dammit! :censored: They don't fit.
(http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/3272/calipersdontfitsj1.jpg)
Oh well. Maybe I can re-sell them and at least break even.
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I found a guy in Norcross parting out three '81 750 Custom(s). I'm going down there on Thursday to pick up the right parts.
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What, you coulden't just drill bigger holes? :tongue:
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New cable installed. The clutch works. :cheersmate:
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Both calipers have been cleaned, rebuilt, and reinstalled. :cheersmate:
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Get the brakes bled and take it for a ride. I'll try to get that done tomorrow. :hyper:
I will probably have to rebuid the master cylinder again. I left off a small piece that has been laying on my keyboard the entire time and I'm concerned the brakes might fail without it. And there is the possibility that my JB-weld job could leak, but I doubt that. I will eventually replace them with an OEM set to go with some new stainless steel hoses. They sit at an angle, because of the handlebards the idiotic PO put on -- I like them, but they don't go with the master cylinder. The clutch drags a little, but I'm not sure if that's normal or it if just needs to be adjusted.
Still got to deal with wiring. I found a couple of connectors under the brake lever that I missed before. Maybe that's the source of my blinker problem. And tags, title, and registration so I can put it on the road.
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Sounds like your'e doing it the right way, nice and careful. :cheersmate:
As a sidenote, a drywall contractor came by the house last week to look at some work that STILL needs to be done to "finish" our remodel from 2006!
He rode up on a 1998 Honda 1100 CBR XX Blackbird.
I AM IN LOVE, and not with the guy, the bike. It's got to be one of the the most awesome sportbikes I've ever seen.
Get this, he paid 3k for it!!!!
BASTAGE!!!! :-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CBR1100XX
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w000!! :hyper:
Got the master cylinder completely rebuilt last weekend, but could not get the calipers bled worth a damn. Turns out there was some air leaking around the bleeder screw(s). A few layers of teflon tape on the threads did the trick. After that, I got them bled in about 20 minutes. They work!
After getting the front brakes done, turns out that the front forks need to be re-done as well. They're pretty mushy and don't respond... they go down and mostly stay down when you put any weight on the front end. Looks like that will be the next thing I need to do, on top of checking to see if the charging system is functioning. I took the battery out about a month ago and plugged it up to a trickle charger so it wouldn't die sitting out there. It's a PITA putting it back in.
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Not sure. I may try to do them myself. If I can't, I'll send it to the same dealership that I've been using since high school. Either way, it will probably be a couple weeks before it's done. There are only a couple parts to the forks... a dust cap, a seal, a large spring, and a lot of fluid.
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It shoulden't be too hard to do yourself. I did the seals on my 83 SECA 900 several times.
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It shoulden't be too hard to do yourself. I did the seals on my 83 SECA 900 several times.
I'm reading the shop manual for the bike, and it says there should only be 5.5 oz of fluid in each fork stem. That doesn't sound like a lot. I'm planning on changing the fluid out tomorrow, but if it doesn't improve, I'll have to take them apart and check the springs. I didn't see any grease or smearing that would indicate a leaking seal.
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It's a wonderful sport-tourer :cheersmate: They tend to go pretty cheap too, you should get one :uhsure: you need one :-)
Yes, yes I do.
Get this...........my wife LOVED the bike. :hyper:
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I'm reading the shop manual for the bike, and it says there should only be 5.5 oz of fluid in each fork stem. That doesn't sound like a lot. I'm planning on changing the fluid out tomorrow, but if it doesn't improve, I'll have to take them apart and check the springs. I didn't see any grease or smearing that would indicate a leaking seal.
If the springs are bad, try getting a set of progressives (if available). Makes a big difference.
Are they air/oil? Mine were and if the pressure (air) was down they would be very mushy.
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They are oil-filled. They're bottomed out all the way now. I think the springs may be bad.
Damn thing wouldn't start yesterday. :bawl: I hope I just managed to run down the battery and the gas tank. :(
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If you need springs try here: http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=4049007
Here's a teardown: http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/frkng/frkng.htm
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So is it going to be ready come Spring?