1963 Ford Fairlane

[thundley4]

What about Duplicolor paint?  A small spray can is usually less than $10 or so. Most auto stores carry it around here.

[Chris_]

I've checked with O'Reilly's and DupliColor... they just don't make it.  They do make B4 in those little pen applicator/scratch fixers, but not in an aerosol can.  I found a place online that will mix a can for $20 plus shipping but I'm trying to get the bare metal covered before it rains again.  There is a Sherwin Williams store that will mix automotive paint (acrylic enamel) into aerosol cans... I'm going to talk to them in the morning.  If they can't do it for a reasonable price, I'm just going to order them online and pray for no rain.

It's only for the window frame and that will mostly be covered by the new weatherstripping, but I'd rather not have to primer over it and try to paint around the primer and new rubber later.

[Eupher]

I've checked with O'Reilly's and DupliColor... they just don't make it.  They do make B4 in those little pen applicator/scratch fixers, but not in an aerosol can.  I found a place online that will mix a can for $20 plus shipping but I'm trying to get the bare metal covered before it rains again.  There is a Sherwin Williams store that will mix automotive paint (acrylic enamel) into aerosol cans... I'm going to talk to them in the morning.  If they can't do it for a reasonable price, I'm just going to order them online and pray for no rain.

It's only for the window frame and that will mostly be covered by the new weatherstripping, but I'd rather not have to primer over it and try to paint around the primer and new rubber later.

Good luck with the Sherwin Williams. They are usually very, very spendy.

[BattleHymn]

If you get a little flash rust from  rain, it's not a big deal.  Just make sure you carefully sand all of it away.  You should really gently sand anyways to make sure your touch up coat sticks well.

[marv]

Another:
[Bronco-hijack]

Finally got around to installing the K&N FIPK. Took a little longer than the 1½ hour install time 'cause I had to re-shape the support for the tube from the AC. I got the roughly 10% HP and torque increase promised which helps here in hill country. Ah, those engineering changes....

[/Bronco-hijack]

[biersmythe]

If you get a little flash rust from  rain, it's not a big deal.  Just make sure you carefully sand all of it away.  You should really gently sand anyways to make sure your touch up coat sticks well.

When I was younger I worked for a stent in an auto body shop. We used a product called Metal Etch. I just did a search for it and I cant find it, may not be available now, but all you had to do was spray it on the metal after you sanded the area and it would keep the steel from oxidizing for a few days if needed. All you had to do is hit the area with a scotch bright pad to scuff it up for the primer coat and then paint. 

[Chris_]

I thought most primers had metal etching incorporated with it.

I struck out at Sherwin Williams today.  The only store that does automotive paint is downtown.  I'll try again later.

[biersmythe]

Most do but this product was much stronger. It would take day or two surface oxidation off with just a spray. Great stuff but not needed just make sure to scuff up the area before you prime and paint.

[Chris_]

I have a metal converter from Eastwood that will completely prevent rust from forming.  At this point, I'm planning on grinding the adhesive/rubber crud off and simply primering it until I can get a paint match some time this week. 

[BattleHymn]

Most do but this product was much stronger. It would take day or two surface oxidation off with just a spray. Great stuff but not needed just make sure to scuff up the area before you prime and paint.

Yeah, you can get etching primer at most auto body places.  Good stuff.

[Chris_]

I called Sherwin Williams... they only want $18 a can and I can pick it up on Wednesday.  I ordered acrylic enamel, which is what I think the original paint is.

[Eupher]

I called Sherwin Williams... they only want $18 a can and I can pick it up on Wednesday.  I ordered acrylic enamel, which is what I think the original paint is.

Did they even have acrylic anything back in 1963?

[biersmythe]

I called Sherwin Williams... they only want $18 a can and I can pick it up on Wednesday.  I ordered acrylic enamel, which is what I think the original paint is.

here is a site that claims to give you the proper pain codes. I would do some more research.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1963&manuf=Ford&model=Fairlane&con=ymo&rows=50

[Chris_]

here is a site that claims to give you the proper pain codes. I would do some more research.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1963&manuf=Ford&model=Fairlane&con=ymo&rows=50

That's the one I used.

The '63 paint chip didn't have a Sherwin Williams code on it so I gave them the one for the 2000 Ford.  It looks close enough... I will try it out on some trim pieces I pulled off first.

[Chris_]

So the paint I paid Sherwin Williams for is way too dark.  Oh well.  I didn't go overboard with it, but it will be difficult to mask.  I think I'll just hit it with some primer and suck it up.  Did I mention I wanted to repaint the car white?  Not refrigerator white, but something with a little tan in it.

I went window-shopping for an R134a compressor and the closest one I found that matches the weird setup on the Fairlane is a 1996 Explorer. The bolts will require some shims to get it to fit and I'll have to replace the evaporator as well.

[BattleHymn]

I went window-shopping for an R134a compressor and the closest one I found that matches the weird setup on the Fairlane is a 1996 Explorer. The bolts will require some shims to get it to fit and I'll have to replace the evaporator as well.

Do you have vinyl seats? 

[Chris_]

Do you have vinyl seats? 

Yes

[BattleHymn]

Yes

I was just wondering.  Cloth seats I can stand to not have A/C.  Vinyl is a different story.  I don't like telling the temperature by how badly my legs have stuck to the seat. 

I put up with no A/C in the MG and the Z, because it's more work that it's worth for the amount I drive them.   

[Chris_]

I was just wondering.  Cloth seats I can stand to not have A/C.  Vinyl is a different story.  I don't like telling the temperature by how badly my legs have stuck to the seat. 

I put up with no A/C in the MG and the Z, because it's more work that it's worth for the amount I drive them.   

I just want the AC to work because the car came with AC from the factory.  I don't care if the compressor doesn't match or if it runs R134a.

R12 is ungodly expensive.  I'd rather look at replacing the whole thing than trying to fix it.

[Chris_]

I saw some really nice OEM alloy wheels on an XJ at the junkyard.  Too bad they won't fit my Ford.

http://www.carid.com/1998-jaguar-xj-type-factory-wheels/cci-factory-alloy-wheel-10999313.html

Another Jag wheel:

http://www.allfactorywheels.com/products/1998%252d1999-Jaguar-XJ8-16%22-59725.html


Looks like I'm going to have to shop for some nice looking 15-inch Crown Vic wheels instead.



These are available from 1980-1991 CVs.  I think this would look sharp.

[Chris_]

Okay, these people want an arm and a leg for those damn wheels.  $125 each?  Forget that.

The kid with the Karmann-Ghia gave me the phone number for a friend of his that does upholstery.  He said he could make me new seat covers for half the price the big mail-order guys want (Dennis Carpenter, Dearborn Classics).  Also, those guys don't carry anything that matches my car.  They sell weird reproduction stuff that doesn't match or stuff from other models with different material.  I'm pretty sure the upholstery from an early F-100 will fit my car... I'm going to make a trip to the Pull-A-Part and cut out the seat cover to see.

[Chris_]

I found a reprint of the factory manual.  I still can't tell why my dash lights don't work while everything else does but this is a big help.

[BattleHymn]

Are they on a rheostat?

[Chris_]

Are they on a rheostat?

I don't think so, but I could be wrong. 

The fuse box and the light switch are integrated.  It looks like a nightmare... I hope I'm wrong.

[biersmythe]

Have you pulled the dash panel to get to the lights and tested with a volt meter or test light? My VW had corrosion in ALL the sockets. I took apart the cluster and cleaned each socket, and put a new bulb in while I was there. I didn't like the green tint the cluster had so I also got rid of the green film. I should have put LED replacement bulbs while I was there but alas there is always next time.