Author Topic: 1973 MG B  (Read 157733 times)

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Offline Wineslob

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #350 on: September 18, 2012, 05:11:55 PM »
“The national budget must be balanced. The public debt must be reduced; the arrogance of the authorities must be moderated and controlled. Payments to foreign governments must be reduced, if the nation doesn't want to go bankrupt. People must again learn to work, instead of living on public assistance.”

        -- Marcus Tullius Cicero, 55 BC (106-43 BC)

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #351 on: September 18, 2012, 05:19:10 PM »
That's an Oldsmobile.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #352 on: September 18, 2012, 08:10:16 PM »
My turn signals stopped working. :whistling:

I replaced the flaky turn signal switch and they still don't work (they stopped working this afternoon before I replaced the stalk switch).   Everything else works fine... I'm pretty sure I have another relay around here I can swap the flasher relay with.
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Offline obumazombie

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #353 on: September 19, 2012, 04:07:39 PM »
That's an Oldsmobile.
An insignificant detail.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #354 on: September 19, 2012, 05:59:39 PM »


Encrustulated flasher relay... four bucks for a replacement at O'Reillys.  I had to remove the glove box to get to it.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #355 on: September 19, 2012, 06:28:06 PM »
Nice!

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #356 on: September 19, 2012, 06:33:53 PM »
edit:  I swear it was dry when I took it out.  Some water dripped on me at the auto parts store.  I think condensation is building up underneath the dashboard... I have to wipe my car down before getting inside.

The original one is still sitting on the firewall on the passenger side but there's nothing connected to it.  I figured one of the other owners didn't want to spend money on genuine LucasTM parts and did what everyone else has done... buy one off the shelf and stick it behind the glove compartment. 

I was right.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2012, 09:57:22 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Wineslob

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #357 on: September 21, 2012, 09:36:06 AM »
Damn, I thought my Fiat was bad.   :thatsright:
“The national budget must be balanced. The public debt must be reduced; the arrogance of the authorities must be moderated and controlled. Payments to foreign governments must be reduced, if the nation doesn't want to go bankrupt. People must again learn to work, instead of living on public assistance.”

        -- Marcus Tullius Cicero, 55 BC (106-43 BC)

The unobtainable is unknown at Zombo.com



"Practice random violence and senseless acts of brutality"

If you want a gender neutral bathroom, go pee in the forest.

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #358 on: September 22, 2012, 04:54:53 PM »
One of the previous owners put a cheap, shitty plastic dash cap over the dashboard instead of taking the time to repair the crack that formed in the middle of the dash.  The plastic cap has warped and come loose and now makes an ungodly racket while driving around.  Now instead of just repairing the crack, I have to deal with all the damn glue that was used.


Glue


Crack


I ended up widening the crack to clean out all the shit that had gotten wedged in there over the years.


I will fill this with some minimally-expanding foam, seal it with epoxy, and paint over it.


My Datsun had the same problem and I was already planning to do the same repair to that car, so I should already have all the material I need.  I've used that spray-on vinyl "paint" before and it looks pretty good.  I'll probably have to mask off and repaint the entire dash instead of trying to blend it.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #359 on: September 22, 2012, 06:12:01 PM »
I found a repair invoice from last year under the front seat.

Quote from: Klassic Autos, Madison AL
1.  Engine won't crank/sort electrical

All previous electrical hacks associated with the fuse block were removed and the original problems found and fixed.  The radio was removed and rewired.  The starter circuit was diagnosed and repaired (broken connection under dash).  Attempt was made to repair the tachometer, however the tach itself is faulty and should be replaced with a working unit first.

2.  Engine runs badly

While the engine was cold, the valves were adjusted to spec of .015 and the valve cover refitted with a new gasket.  The burned spark plugs were replaced and gapped per spec.  The cap, rotor, and wires were inspected and serviceable.  The timing was noted to be 4 BTDC at idle, about 10 degrees retarded.  The timing could not be adjusted because the Mallory dual point distributor is seized and will not move.  The HIF4 carbs were adjusted to factory spec and then fine tuned.  The brakes were bled and adjusted.

3.  Can't get into gear w/ engine running

The clutch hydraulic system is worn and leaking the entire system was renewed with new master and slave cylinders and flex hose.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 06:28:16 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #360 on: September 22, 2012, 07:18:38 PM »
Whoa, wait, do you have the original distributor, or an aftermarket unit?

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #361 on: September 22, 2012, 07:20:34 PM »
How can I tell?  There's no markings or tags on the distributor that I can see.

Edit:  it looks like I have a Mallory D23.  This is exactly what mine looks like.

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/shop/-part_Distributor-make_MG.html
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 07:27:33 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #362 on: September 22, 2012, 07:28:36 PM »
If you had your original distributor, there would be Lucas and a model and several other markings stamped into the housing. 

Do you have a vacuum advance on that Mallory?

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #363 on: September 22, 2012, 07:32:18 PM »
No, nothing.

edit: I see that distributor is set up for mechanical advance.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 09:03:36 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #364 on: September 22, 2012, 09:20:52 PM »
All points distributors I've dealt with have some sort of centrifugal advance weights under the points plate. 

The ones without vacuum advance feel very sluggish on the road though, when you're not flooring the car everywhere.  That might be why your car feels like it needs more 'oomph'- you're only running on mechanical advance.   

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #365 on: September 22, 2012, 09:24:44 PM »
Ah, okay.  I've learned to live with it.  Maybe when I win the lottery, I'll put a new distributor on the car.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #366 on: September 22, 2012, 09:36:22 PM »
As long as you're here, I have a question.  I've been poking around trying to find an answer and haven't come close. 

When I run my car over 3,500 RPM (this is a guess based on engine sound since I don't have a working tach), I have a very slight odor of burning oil.  Now I DID overfill the sump a little after the last oil change and I'm wondering if that's the problem.  So far, I have noticed very little or almost no oil consumption over the last 1,000 miles... the dipstick still reads slightly above full and the color is not too dark or burned.

I've been driving around town in third gear (40 MPH) at a moderate engine speed.  If I speed up to about 50 in third, then I notice the smell after a short while.  I reserve fourth gear for anything above 55 MPH since I tend to speed in fourth gear.  The car feels comfortable in third gear and runs fine other than the smell.

I still think my oil separator may be clogged.  I reconnected it and adjusted the carburetors to run with it attached.  Aside from the rear carb running lean, the car runs just fine.  Also, I used 10w-30 Rotella for my oil change while I think the Bentley manual calls for 20w-50.

The plugs were clean and normal-looking when I replaced them the other week.  The oil smell has been continuous the entire time I've owned it.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 09:48:35 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #367 on: September 22, 2012, 09:54:51 PM »
Did you notice the smell before you overfilled the sump, or only afterwards?

Are you sure the smell isn't manifesting out of the tailpipe?

Did you check to see if the tappet covers are sprinkling a little oil on your exhaust manifold?

From what you say, and if it isn't coming out your exhaust, it almost sounds more like the increased air turbulence under the hood at a greater rate of speed might be blowing oil onto something hot. 

Are there any 'damp' spots on your case anywhere from oil weeping? 

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #368 on: September 22, 2012, 10:01:36 PM »
No oil weeping that I can find.  The underside of the drivetrain is pretty dirty though.  I wonder if I don't have a leak somewhere else.  According to the invoice, the valve cover gasket was changed last year.  Yes, I'm relatively sure the smell was there before I changed my oil.  It definitely smells like it's coming from the front of the car.

I can drain a little oil tomorrow and see if the smell goes away.  I'll call that shop down in Alabama and ask them if they have any other service history on this car.    That bill was for $1,500.

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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #369 on: September 22, 2012, 10:05:08 PM »
$300 for a new tach. :o

I may have to wait until Christmas.
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Offline BattleHymn

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #370 on: September 22, 2012, 10:44:13 PM »

I can drain a little oil tomorrow and see if the smell goes away.  I'll call that shop down in Alabama and ask them if they have any other service history on this car.    That bill was for $1,500.


I'm in the wrong business. 

Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #371 on: September 22, 2012, 11:03:47 PM »
I was out of some ingredients for my dinner, so I ran to the store.  I didn't get the oil smell from starting a cold engine but I did get it immediately from starting it while hot on the trip back.  It's not showing up on the spark plugs so I'm going to pretend there is not an issue with the oil scraper ring(s).  I haven't done a compression test on this engine yet but everything feels tight.  It could still be that damn oil separator.  The PCV valve in my first Datsun was gummed up like crazy when I brought it home... I didn't pass a smog test until I changed it.

I came across a post on the MG board that recommended changing the spark plug wires and ditching the platinum plugs (I ended up buying them because it was the only thing available).  I'll give it a shot tomorrow.  I never did change the wires but I will have to check that invoice to see if they haven't been changed recently.

Yes, my plugs are gapped correctly.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 11:09:01 PM by Chris_ »
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #372 on: September 23, 2012, 08:00:10 PM »
Found another invoice today.  It was a repair for some bodged wiring on the fan switch.
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Offline Chris_

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #373 on: September 24, 2012, 04:28:02 PM »
Mr. zeit sent me a couple of MG books.  There is a chapter in one of them titled "Engine Noises".  The entries are Squealing, Grinding, Screaming, Tinkling, Tapping, Ticking, Rattling, Popping, Rumbling, Whistling, Sizzling, and Jingling. :rofl:
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Offline zeitgeist

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Re: 1973 MG B
« Reply #374 on: September 24, 2012, 04:58:05 PM »
Mr. zeit sent me a couple of MG books.  There is a chapter in one of them titled "Engine Noises".  The entries are Squealing, Grinding, Screaming, Tinkling, Tapping, Ticking, Rattling, Popping, Rumbling, Whistling, Sizzling, and Jingling. :rofl:

They do strive for accuracy now don't they. :rotf:
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