I had to nadin a picture because my shop manual still hasn't arrived yet, but they are definitely SU carbs. Here are a set on a Datsun Z.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/wrekalot55/cars/240z/100_1484.jpg)
Thanks to University Motors (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3Zfdj9W2Y4), I was able to fold down the top without damaging it. There is a small tear in the vinyl that I made worse by not folding it correctly the first time. Second time was a piece of cake.
I'm pretty sure the tear came from not unhooking the snap above the driver/passenger seats. Personally, I like the look of the matte black fabric top. The vinyl one looks shiny and cheap (I have the receipt. It was $500 for a new one).
I got nothing but smiles from a carload of wimmin this week. It was great.
Try these suggestions: http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/Lever_shock_oil/1753223Cool, that gives me an excuse to stop at the motorcycle dealer across the street and ogle some two-wheeled stuff on my way to the parts counter.
My brother ran some hydraulic jack oil in his, and it worked out fine for him.
I looked at some 912's... I even considered flying out west to pick one up, but they were out of my budget. I'm really happy with the MG other than it is not really a daily driver, at least not unless you lift weights for a living or live really close to work. A 45-minute commute in this car is not going to be fun in the long term, but that's not why I bought it. I drove this thing to a dozen different stops and back home yesterday and was wore out. By the time I got home, my armpits hurt.
Here are a few quick pictures I took -- click on them for a bigger size.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors1.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view¤t=carburettors1.jpg) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors2.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view¤t=carburettors2.jpg) (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/th_carburettors3.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/?action=view¤t=carburettors3.jpg)
My Hagerty's policy covers 5000 miles a year and only cost me $130.
I had a Fiat 1200 Roadster as my first car. It drove like your MG. Still miss it.
You replaced that with a Pontiac? :thatsright:
Wimmin love little bitty British Sportscars. Smart wimmin do. People who drive them know stuff about cars, you have to, or you have a full time mechanic. Either way, it is all good. :-)I was sandwiched between a Miata and a BMW Z4 in traffic. It was a nice day.
Your trunk lid doesn't look crooked. I think you could pilot the Titanic through the panel gap on mine. ::)
I've never been to the local car shows (GoodGuys/Hunters). It's always the same old A/B-body stuff from the mid- to late-sixties. Yawn.
There WAS a Plymouth Cranbroook (http://www.curbsideclassic.com/curbside-classics-american/curbside-classic-1951-plymouth-cranbrook-automotive-immortality/) at the same dealer that had an MG B and a '65 Ford Galaxie for sale last year but I was not interested in a boat like that.
I topped off my lever shocks on the front. It didn't take much but it made a difference... I think I could drive this car all day long and not get tired of it.
Went to the car show and got rained on.
Lots of gaudy, tacky crap. Some good stuff, though. I knew I should have registered my MG for the show... there was a small section for foreign cars (two Beetles and a Thing).
I did, it's in the trunk along with the tonneau frame. I haven't messed with it yet.
The only problem I've had, other than the rear suspension, is the occasional rough idle and stall. It doesn't happen every time I drive the car, but it happens often enough to be annoying.
My rebound straps arrived. They are heavy rubber with a red canvas core and have '051' stamped on them. I won't be able to get them changed immediately. I still have to call the movers next week and I have a hornet nest I need to take care of. I'm not hanging out with those angry ****ers flying around.
I'm thinking of having my Rostyle wheels refinished. It looks like they were painted from a spray can and look like crap.
Are your rebound straps in good shape?
Ok first, for your turn signals, did you toggle your hazard switch back and forth a bunch of times?Holy crap, it worked. :yahoo:
Holy crap, it worked. :yahoo:
I'm telling you, the same slovenly Midlander that put your car together put mine together, too. It's like deja vu.All over again...-Yogi Berra-
I forgot about the joys of open-air vehicles during summer. Dumpsters! Garbage cans! Diesel trucks!
I got squirted in the face by someone's lawn sprinkler. :lmao:
That's great for a nice pick-me-up.It was like getting slapped with a wet fish. Never saw it coming.
It was like getting slapped with a wet fish. Never saw it coming.At least you didn't get hit with the Luca Brasi treatment.
At least you didn't get hit with the Luca Brasi treatment.
edit on hot.
Reminds me of a story abou riding a motorcycle in FLA without a helmet back in the day. Hurts like the dickens to get hit by a palmetto bug in the forehead, darn near tore me off the bike (I was doing about 70 at the time). Not to mention the mess and red welt. :argh:Those suckers hurt. I used to ride around in a t-shirt and would get smacked by bugs and rocks all the time.
BH, did you have an issue with your car getting warm while sitting in traffic or running at high speeds for a prolonged period? I was on the interstate for about half an hour at 70mph and my car started running warmer than usual (halfway between N and H). It also started running hotter than normal when the weather got warm in June.
My coolant level is good and I'm not seeing any leaks. I think I may have a sticking thermostat and picked up a replacement. I haven't had a chance to change it out yet. I've had to turn the heater on to cool it down to something normal... that sucker puts out some nuclear sized heat.
I had to nadin a picture because my shop manual still hasn't arrived yet, but they are definitely SU carbs. Here are a set on a Datsun Z.
I hate to admit it, but it's cooler with the top up in this blazing heat. I did not expect that.
Maybe I should invest in a few more black shirts.
:cheersmate: Hey guys, time for a couple of questions? A man was passing through, in an MGB-GT? It was love at first sight. He says parts are easy to find, and someone my size can fit in sort-of. (6-1,215 pushing 60)
Any comments?
If you want to work on it yourself, you will need 11" fingers. Also popular with the ladies. Oh....and a can of Lucas replacement smoke.
Oh, they're not that bad to work on at all! I'd much rather work on the B than on any of my Volvos, or any other newer car. Somehow I've managed to avoid any need for a can of Lucas smoke on my car. Clean those grounds, and keep all the connections clean, and hopefully Lucas won't come knocking.
Sorry, old British car jokes from my youth. I was a sucker for them too.
I'd love to have an MGBGT, or even an A, but they are hard to find around here. They're easy to work on as long as you don't mind getting a hunch in your back from stooping over. :-)I used to be able to do a lot of the work on my Datsun from my knees.
Did you try taking it off, and seeing if it has that metal core that you can pinch a little so that it has a better hold on the car?I don't think it does, but I will take another look.
Swapped out the thermostat. It seems to be behaving itself now. It still runs a little warm but cools down immediately once you start moving.
I had to pry the old thermostat out with a screwdriver. It was in there pretty good.
:o I hope it was the same one you use to open paint cans.
I have to go looking for pictures of my old B. Do you still have the third W/W wiper on that one? I remember taking it off on mine but darn if I can remember why. :rotf:
:-) Thanks for the advice guys. I'm checking e-bay next, I've got an itch for a new toy.Here's something (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQqvVb6wvF4&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL2D0B981982C204C7) you might enjoy (I love this show).
Now how can I explain it to the wife?
Worst air filter housing design. Ever. I actually cut myself changing it out and now my car doesn't run right. I know the base and housing aren't sealed properly... I'm going to have to reinstall it without that stupid rubber hose connecting them for now.
I've had the original cans for both of my MGs, but they came with K&N filters and housings on both of them, so I just left them on.I replaced the dirty air filters and managed to get the cans installed correctly today, but I left off the air hose that connects the two cans in the middle.
The crankcase breather on my engine seems to be clogged. I disconnected the breather hose at the Y fitting and it ran perfectly. I reconnected the hose going to the crankcase and it goes back to running rough and stalling at lights. Now it only wants to cut out if I stomp on the brakes and slosh the fuel around the float bowls.
Ordered a Unisyn from Victoria British. $45 with shipping. I should have ordered it on Monday... it would be here by now.
Ordered a Unisyn from Victoria British. $45 with shipping. I should have ordered it on Monday... it would be here by now.
Now it only wants to cut out if I stomp on the brakes and slosh the fuel around the float bowls.
The previous owner installed one of those shitty plastic dash caps and it is starting to come off.
It looks good (it's not warped), but I'm thinking of taking it off and covering it in heavy vinyl to make it look a little more presentable, or trying to fix the original soft dash pad.
Time to shop for new control arms, springs, and struts. I'm going to upgrade everything to the SE suspension with a new set of harder Eibach springs.
It's a full cap. It's not too bad. I almost didn't notice it. If the padded dash is fixable, I can top if off with some new vinyl and it would look much better.
You should not have any struts on your car, unless someone screwed up your suspension (there is a kit out there to convert the rear axle to struts).This is for the Camry.
Word on the street is Apple Hydraulics is the best place to get your lever action shocks: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm
I recycled a drop kit I had from my first MGB (rubber bumper) which basically consists of new front coils, and some lower blocks for the rear axle. I'm not sure if they are stiffer than the originals (I assume a little bit, since they are shorter) but I can tell you I certainly wouldn't want them any stiffer.
I only saw the right side of the dash, but everything looked okay. I'm hoping the foam is in good shape... I would just pull it and re-cover it.
I got a chance to look at the rebound straps. They're completely gone.
That might explain some of your more interesting handling characteristics. :-)
They'll do 60, but I think the 110mph speedometer is extremely optimistic. Mine seems to run out of oomph around 75mph but I haven't tried to go any faster than that.
It's definitely an around-town car and no speed demon.
I have not done that. Removing the battery covers is a pain in the ass.
What grade of oil do you use? I swear my Bentley manual says to use 20w50 but that doesn't sound right.
I can only figure you are familiar with this site?
Smoke Check.
(I was doing 60n when I spotted the B). I don't remember what you can get out of one but I have seen some modified that go real fast. :naughty: More money = more speed.
I tried kidding around with them earlier with some Lucas jokes. Having been a British car owner (1 MG Mig & 2 Sunbeam Tigers), I recall loosing my sense of humor also. You recover quickly after disposing of said vehicle.
Oh, I'm all about the Lucas jokes. I'm just making sure Chris' car is in tiptop shape before I feel ok about laying them on him.
We don't want to discourage him. :naughty: :fuelfire:
I'll hold off on telling my dashboard fire story.
Smoke Check.
(I was doing 60n when I spotted the B). I don't remember what you can get out of one but I have seen some modified that go real fast. :naughty: More money = more speed.
Do share. Chris can just close his eyes and skip past this part :-)
I've only had one fire, and it was more-or-less a freak accident. One of the metal loom holders under the hood had cut through the insulation on a wire, and it was grounding through the loom holder. That was not fun.
Zeitgeist, I have a few mods on my B. I have a link of a drive I did at night a few years back. You can hear the supercharger a few times through the video if your speakers are decent. I listed what I did to it in the description of the video.
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48DGvkaH85Q[/youtube]
My car is still parked at work and it's been raining since Wednesday. I can't do anything until Saturday.
I was worried we might have chased you off. It turns out you are just hogging all the rain. :hammer:Yes, that's it. :rofl:
Yes, that's it. :rofl:
Yep, story of my life, buy a convertible and never see the sun again. :whistling:
Not really Chris. :rotf:
I only had a few minor problems with my B. I did keep losing the fuel pump because of a bad fuse holder. Took for ever to find that one. Car would stall out and not restart. Shake it and it would start. Finally figured out the electric fuel pump was losing power intemittently. Finally found the problem at the fuse holder after pretty much probing every six inches of wire. I was going nuts for quite some time with that one.
My SIL OTOH ended up doing a complete new wiring harness in hers.
I tried shaking it. Didn't. work.
It turned out to be a bad battery cable. I pulled the ground strap that runs to the body and it fell apart in my hand. $8 and 15 minutes later and I'm back on the road.
Instant man icure.
(huffs fingersnails, rubs on shoulder) :-)
Mr. Lucas struck again.Rube Goldberg was an optimist.
I bumped the ignition switch wiring harness with my knee and the car stopped running. I did eventually get it started, but my radio no longer works.
This is a joke, right?
Mr. Lucas struck again.
I bumped the ignition switch wiring harness with my knee and the car stopped running. I did eventually get it started, but my radio no longer works.
This is a joke, right?
MG B roadster back as SUV (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/mg/59305/mg-roadster-back-suv)
Blasphemy.
I guess I'll find out after I change the rebound straps, but sometimes it feels like driving a brick. Very heavy and poor response around corners.I love lurking on this thread, and replying when I can fit in with the ambiance of the topic. I would say your car would be perfect for the Wheeler Dealer treatment. Have you thought about that ?
I know, but I really like the early one. It's fancy. :)
I can get one for a couple hundred dollars with shipping.
As far as the radio, mine still has the original British Leyland AM/FM model. :naughty:Pretty.
Pretty.XM is good for long trips too.
I think I want one with an iPod/MP3 input if I'm going to drive this thing down to Texas soon. I only listen to three radio stations anyway.
Yeah, those banjo wheels are my favorite, too. I'm also partial to the metal dash, but you buy what you can find with an old car.
As far as the radio, mine still has the original British Leyland AM/FM model. :naughty:
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/IMG_0446.jpg)
My bad. Forgot to tell the BF the year. I am just reading him this thread. :-):ashamed:
:ashamed:
I'll be sure to wash and wax it before I leave.
I washed it last month... needs another bath, but it really does need to be repainted.
I'll be sure to wash and wax it before I leave.
I washed it last month... needs another bath, but it really does need to be repainted. The hood is peeling and some parts look like they've been burned.
satin black the hood. :-)
Point of Order, Mr. Chairman.
Ain't that the bonnet, rather than the hood?
:whistling: :fuelfire: :-)
I may have corrected my overheating problem. I tried to purge the air out of the cooling system by taking the cap off the radiator and letting the car heat up to N. I ran it to the store and sat in some traffic for a bit and it seems to be running cooler than before. I guess it doesn't hurt that it's only 80º right now.
We will see. :p
My oil separator is clogged. The closest thing I found to Choreboy were some "copper coated" pads.
Absolutely correct. Boot and Bonnet.I took a look at the List of Craig's today. Lots of B's for sale, not many of them look as nice as mine for the price or are overpriced rubber bumper models.
I really wish I had my camera today, saw a really nice red B all track numbered up with a driver's roll bar. It looked fast just standing still. :yahoo:
There is a joke in here about a British car's convertible top somewhere, I just know it:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/news/9453772/London-2012-Olympics-Heavy-rain-leaks-into-velodrome-and-soaks-marathon.html
I never understood why roadsters were so popular in a country where it rained and snowed 200 days a year.
At least the defogger/heater work great in my car.
With all this topless talk on here, I got excited and drove from NW Arkansas to Memphis today, topless.
You were pretty close to my neck of the woods. Did you get rained on?Just missed it. I saw that it was a gullywasher. Gina is in the same neck of the woods. Wonder if she got soaked ?
My spare was an old bias ply. I'm going to hang it in the garage as an antique.
Went to Hobby Slobby and picked up enough vinyl to cover two dashboards. Fifteen bucks and some change ($17.32 including the bag of Reisen candy).
I forgot :thatsright:
That's true. You should take before and after shots.Hmm. I didn't realize the entire dashboard was a single piece. I was only looking at the plastic cap. This looks like slightly more work than I wanted. I think I may just cover the plastic cap with vinyl and reattach it.
:rant: I already got a flat with one of my new tires. I think there might be something wrong with that wheel because that's the same one that went flat before.
Checked both carbs with the Unisyn. The front one was fine, the rear is running lean and the mixture screw is maxed out. The rear carb is sucking more air than the front so I adjusted the idle and fuel mixtures until I got it closer to the front one, but it is still running lean. I did not check the oil level in the air pistons. They're both sitting a little high -- I'm guessing they're dry. I will have to check them later.
I may have had the backing plates on my air filters upside down and was blocking the breather hole. I think I got them installed correctly.
Next week, drain and flush the cooling system. Is the coolant supposed to look gray when the water pump is running?
It's a lot of little jobs that are a pain in the ass. Next time, I'm just buying a parts car and leaving it in the driveway until I'm finished.
Ignition/Starter/Auxiliary Switch - MGB/TR6 (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pcode=34680#wd)
Combined Ignition and Starter Switch with left position for Auxiliary circuits such as radio. With chrome bezel and Lucar connectors. Requires 19.6 mm diameter hole. Supplied with fixed Barrel & Key. Rated at 5 amps for Ignition, 16 amps for Starter and 15 amps for Auxiliary.This Ignition and Starter Switch was fitted to MGB and TR6. These are no longer available from Lucas, and so this is a quality reproduction
The marker and tail lights on the opposite corners (front left, rear right) are out and my horn doesn't work. Other than that, everything seems okay so far. If I only drove it during the day, I would be okay. I'm glad I'm not the only one that's had this problem... someone suggested checking out fuse #4.
Still need to work on this Camry. The clutch is still f'ed up.
Remind me to kill myself if I ever think about buying a British car.You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?The suicide or the car? :lmao:
The suicide or the car? :lmao:
It's just a minor inconvenience, that's all. Also, my radio no longer stores any of my stations when I turn the car off.
You're thinking about it now, aren't you ?
If I'm going to torture myself, I'll go Italian. They got it down.
Well....you do have a point there...
"If you hate it now, wait until you drive it."Davenport, where is the Griswold's sports wagon ?
Chris,
I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.
:tongue: :fuelfire: :whistling:
If there was only one thing I could change about this car, I'm torn choosing between these two things:
a) changing the heater core somehow, so it isn't always pushing 900 degree air on your right foot the entire time (even with the blowr off), or
b) making a gas pedal that isn't the size of a postage stamp. I'm told the earlier cars had an even smaller gas pedal. My later B had one that was about the size of a baby cucumber, and it wasn't bad.
Yeah, there is room for a petcock- I actually put one on my first B.Try wearing black leather shoes.
I didn't really care for how it looked under the hood, but at this point I'm willing to sacrifice looks for a cooler foot. I love to wear flip flops, and wearing flip flops in this thing is brutal.
Chris,I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.
That sucks. If I ever have to pull out the engine in this car, I'm replacing it with something else. :evil:
I'm off to Hubcap Annie's to have one of my wheels checked out. I think the rim is damaged because the tire on it won't hold air.
That sucks. If I ever have to pull out the engine in this car, I'm replacing it with something else. :evil:
I bet a small block Ford would fit real nice.Think like a lib, if one is good, two is better, especially if it's free.
Chris,I just thought you'd like to know that I just got done taking my B out for a drive around town, and everything worked.
So,
It starts to drizzle, and I go out to put the B back into the garage in its designated spot. I had left it out as I was going to drive it tomorrow.
I start it up, flick the headlights on, reverse, then forward, and as I am pulling it into its spot in the garage, I notice a blob of oil on the floor. Nice. I park the car, grab my trusty flashlight and head out into the driveway where I had been parked, to see if the blob was an anomaly found only on the garage floor.
Another blob, this one still warm. Nice.
Back to the car, looking underneath, and I see I've got a nice shiny drop of Shell Rotella just about to drip itself off the FRONT side of the rear cover plate. I check the clutch face through the access hole, dry. All of the oil is on the front side of the rear cover plate.
One innernets search later:
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1641621,page=1
Ooraah!! Want to come over and see how to pull a motor and trans? :naughty:
:hammer:
Glutton for punishment....much?
:rofl:
P.S. I could pull the trans in my Fiat in 15 min..........
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/maskedwheel.jpg)
This taping and masking stuff is a pain in the ass.
That's what was on the car when I got it... all black wheels with an early chrome trim ring. I like the plain rostyle as long as it's done right. I may leave the trim ring off the wheels for a while and see how I like it.
I never cared for the wire wheels. Too much maintenance for a wheel that ends up looking like a cheap wheel cover.
I've been meaning to pull the fuel bowl and make sure it's not full of gunk. It's still not running entirely right.
Leepu is a retard.
[youtube=425,350]nUrRH3MpDvI[/youtube]
This show is so ghetto. He makes the same car every time... big ass and wide hips.
:rant: Sixteen pounds for the wheel mask from Moss Europe and that doesn't cover shipping.
Think I'll stick with my masking tape and razor blade.
Today's airing of greivances :panic:
The plastic handle came off my window crank. I have no clue how I'm going to put it back on since the end of the post is flared larger than the hole it's supposed to go in.
Both adjuster screws came off one of the carburettors.
My tachometer only wants to work when it's wet outside. Maybe it's homesick.
:rotf:
It's similar, but the handle is stainless steel. The plastic knob at the top is what came off. The guy at Auto Zone fixed it for me with a rusty screwdriver and a big hammer. :lmao:
Still on the lookout for the idle adjust screws. I lost another one. :(
Dammit. My car crapped out on me.
I was driving down the highway doing about 65 when my car lost power and sputtered to a stop. I had to take the cap off the distributor and re-seat it before the car would run again. Looks like I should probably order a spare just in case. Seems to be running okay now.
A spare distributor cap, or a spare car?:whistling:
:whistling:
I had to order a new clutch tube for my Camry. It had to be special-ordered, so I'm driving the MG whenever I can.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4152/4984971181_b0c8a07969_z.jpg)
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars.
I really want a third car. I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars.Stick it to the man, Ralph Nader, get a corvair !
I really want a third car. I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.
That other guy, BattleHymn, has like four cars.
I really want a third car. I can't decide if I want a 1963 Ford Fairlane or maybe an air-cooled VW or Karmann Ghia.
Lacking in garage space?
You are certifiably.......................something.
:-)
Lacking in garage space?
I think I can squeeze one more in there, but I think my neighbors would burn my house down.
$45 for an assortment of screws, springs, and a distributor kit (cap, rotor, condenser). It should arrive tomorrow.
$45 for an assortment of screws, springs, and a distributor kit (cap, rotor, condenser). It should arrive tomorrow.
Just today I saw a Fiat sitting at the Chrysler garage. Sad.
Not yet.
X1/9 :tongue:
What model?
says a glutton for punishment...... :panic:
What model?
says a glutton for punishment...... :panic:
The new little one that looks pretty much like the old little one ~ 500 I think it was. I was just surprised the local Chrysler dealer had one out front. I use to do a lot of business with them until they totaled my wife's PT Cruiser.
http://www.fiatusa.com/en/2012/500/
Holy cow I just saw the prices. Casket Royale would be a cheaper choice of a box to be buried in. :rotf:
How to change the oil in your Fiat 500Someone on another forum said it took him two hours. :lmao:
VW Vortex forums (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5688671-DIY-Fiat-500-Oil-Change)
Someone on another forum said it took him two hours. :lmao:
Someone on another forum said it took him two hours. :lmao:
I looked it up earlier... one of them goes to an anti-run-on valve and the other goes to a ballast resistor, neither of which were used on a '72 or '73 model. Weird.
Good news, my distributor shaft bushing is in good shape. Bad news, I bought the wrong cap and rotor. :argh:
Crap. My light switch on the steering column is starting to get flaky. Every time I hit the turn signal, the headlights would switch off until I pulled the stalk back into place.You're going topless, again ?
In other news, it's about 65° outside right now and the heater feels lovely with the top down.
The guy I bought the dwell meter from was working on a three-cylinder engine for his Geo Metro coupe. I told him to put a turbocharger on it. :lmao:
Just curious, did anyone swap the stock flywheel for a lighter one? I'm looking at ways to make this car a little more comfortable on the interstate.
Just curious, did anyone swap the stock flywheel for a lighter one? I'm looking at ways to make this car a little more comfortable on the interstate.
Okay? How is it compared to stock?
I'm looking at spare fuel pumps and the ones I see all have 5/16 fittings on them and I think my car still has the banjo bolts. Am I stuck paying $150 for an SU?
edit: I went with the plastic-bodied ECCO as an emergency spare. Victoria British has it for $30 less than Moss. ----> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=109230&SortOrder=1
That's an Oldsmobile.An insignificant detail.
1. Engine won't crank/sort electrical
All previous electrical hacks associated with the fuse block were removed and the original problems found and fixed. The radio was removed and rewired. The starter circuit was diagnosed and repaired (broken connection under dash). Attempt was made to repair the tachometer, however the tach itself is faulty and should be replaced with a working unit first.
2. Engine runs badly
While the engine was cold, the valves were adjusted to spec of .015 and the valve cover refitted with a new gasket. The burned spark plugs were replaced and gapped per spec. The cap, rotor, and wires were inspected and serviceable. The timing was noted to be 4 BTDC at idle, about 10 degrees retarded. The timing could not be adjusted because the Mallory dual point distributor is seized and will not move. The HIF4 carbs were adjusted to factory spec and then fine tuned. The brakes were bled and adjusted.
3. Can't get into gear w/ engine running
The clutch hydraulic system is worn and leaking the entire system was renewed with new master and slave cylinders and flex hose.
I can drain a little oil tomorrow and see if the smell goes away. I'll call that shop down in Alabama and ask them if they have any other service history on this car. That bill was for $1,500.
Mr. zeit sent me a couple of MG books. There is a chapter in one of them titled "Engine Noises". The entries are Squealing, Grinding, Screaming, Tinkling, Tapping, Ticking, Rattling, Popping, Rumbling, Whistling, Sizzling, and Jingling. :rofl:
You coulda been rich, zeit. Check out these prices (http://www.amazon.com/Problems-Auto-Doc-Williams-published-Paperback/dp/B008KUDXY2). :rofl:
I swear some of these people on Amazon are either mathematically impaired or completely clueless. Do they check for spam?
$300 for a new tach. :o
I may have to wait until Christmas.
That's how I felt trying to track down a replacement ignition switch the other month. "Genuine Lucas parts!" only $140! Get it while it lasts!
Damn cutthroats. I ended up finding a replacement for less than $40 with shipping.
There is no Santa Claus. :tongue:
You might want to be careful with that Armor-all stuff. I know it can actually dry out vinyl and any stitch-work on your seats.
I've always used just straight mineral oil (or baby oil) on all my vinyl pieces with never any problems.
Mineral oil or baby oil works as long as you work it in well & Baby Oil leaves a chick friendly smell. :rotf:
The car made it to Arkansas with no problem. I was wondering why that damn car was such a sweatbox... I've been driving around with the heat on. :thatsright:
Do you happen to know how much the MIN to MAX gauge is on the dipstick? It's usually one quart. That way I'll be able to tell how much oil it burned over the last six hours.
I did an oil change earlier today and added a bottle of NDDP. Holy cow, that stuff was like syrup. The only 20w50 I could find was Valvoline... the only Rotell available was some odd grade like 15w40.
Bougt a new toolbox for my birthday. Yay, me.
I managed to burn 1 quart of oil over 700 miles. Not bad considering most of it was at 70mph.
Top speed through Arkansas was 95. :II:
So... two things I've noticed. 1: Compared to my GPS, my speedometer is faster by as much as 5 MPH. 2: Something changed and my car has gotten louder. I need to get rid of those platinum plugs and see if that changes, or maybe I have a small hole in my exhaust somewhere. I thought my muffler had fallen off at some point, it's that loud. :rotf:
After switching oil grades, I'm not burning nearly as much. I'll have to check it in the morning.
Make sure whatever oil you are running is suitable for an engine without roller tappets, else you'll end up wiping your tappets or your cam, or both.Isn't that the purpose of the zinc additive? I used 15w40 Rotella with my last oil change but it seemed too thin and my oil pressure dropped as then engine got hotter. I picked up a jug of regular Valvoline 20w50 and a quart of NDDP to do an oil change last week. Now my oil pressure is fine but my engine seems a little sluggish and takes more effort to rev than it did previously. It's also louder, but I haven't checked to see if anything is loose or missing yet.
Isn't that the purpose of the zinc additive? I used 15w40 Rotella with my last oil change but it seemed too thin and my oil pressure dropped as then engine got hotter. I picked up a jug of regular Valvoline 20w50 and a quart of NDDP. My oil pressure is fine but my engine seems a little sluggish and takes more effort to rev than it did previously.
The plastic connector is where mine have been breaking. I went with 10- or 11-inch blades, but the VB catalog specifies between plastic and (I assume) metal connectors.
You used to get adapters for the slide-one or J-hook connectors years ago but the parts stores don't seem to have them anymore. Everywhere I went in Wylie was a new store in some strip mall hell that didn't have anything more than five years old.
An 11" blade is just a smidge too long. My brother bought some of those for his B, and the middle wiper rubbed a little at the top of the windshield.
I remember removing the middle wiper but I don't remember what I used for the other two. I was working at an auto parts when I owned it an probably just grabbed a couple that worked right once it was gone. It is as superflurous as Crusty the Clown's third nipple.
I drove it in New England in the snow so I also use winter grade booted wipers on it as well. As a parts store manager I got a great discount on stuff.
The new wipers work fine. I found the source of the noise... I've been driving around with the top up and it turns the inside of the car into a huge echo chamber. Too bad, I was considering buying a hardtop for the car (OEM or aftermarket). I think I need to invest in some sound deadening, but I need to take care of the surface rust on the floor pans before I go sticking stuff to them.You might want to take a look at this page then,
I went looking at the different undercoats at the car show this weekend. I swear it looks like someone sprayed the underside of my car with that industrial rustproofing/fire retardant material they spray on metal-framed buildings. It's lumpy and white... if you've seen the inside of a multi-story office building, you know what I'm talking about.
I found the source of one of my leaks. The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl. I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.
I found the source of one of my leaks. The weatherstripping between the main windshield frame and the vent window has slipped out of place and there is a 1/8-inch gap between the rubber and the cowl. I hope I can fix it without having to remove the entire windshield and frame.
Correct.
I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car. Has anyone used Apple before?
Correct.
I was tossing around the idea of upgrading to standard gas/oil shocks with the Moss kit but tossed that idea out when I saw the prices Apple Hydraulics was charging to rebuild lever shocks, about $200 for their heavy-duty rebuild for the entire car. Has anyone used Apple before?
No. I did however rebuild my own lever shocks once upon a time and it was not all that bad. Cleanliness is key to success in any hydraulic repair. Well that, and knowing when things are spring loaded. :whatever::lmao:
I might be able to get my euph in the back seat, but certainly not the bass trombone.
Don't even talk to me about the tuba. :lmao:
The cold weather caused my fuel filter to start leaking around the seams. I was able to get a matching replacement filter at the store for less than $3. I was wondering where that particular puddle was coming from. :???:
Now I just need a coolant overflow tank. As it is, it just spits the extra coolant out onto the ground.
It's barely a filter... it's a two-piece body with a mesh screen between the two halves.
I need to update it to something like this (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_universal-fuel-filter-driveworks_10127264-p?searchTerm=fuel+filter).
I might be able to get my euph in the back seat, but certainly not the bass trombone.
Don't even talk to me about the tuba. :lmao:
The cold weather caused my fuel filter to start leaking around the seams. I was able to get a matching replacement filter at the store for less than $3. I was wondering where that particular puddle was coming from. :???:
What back seat? :-)
I rest my case/gig bag! :lmao: (Can't you even get an umbrella or a six-pack of coke in the back?)I can fit my hat back there. :whistling:
Congrats :II:
I have to put the car up for a couple months. One of the carbs is running very lean and with the cold air, I just don't want to run the engine like that. It runs fine when it's warm (about 50º) but any colder and it just doesn't run right. Also, I think the fuel pump likes to freeze up at night.
I believe it is still the SU pump. I've had to idle/drive the car for at least five minutes at full choke just to get enough fuel to the engine. Otherwise, it sputters and runs lean. I think the coldest I've had it out was around mid- to low-20°.
I got a quote from JD to repair the crack on my driver door... $350. He quoted me another $75 to replace the exhaust gasket that is damaged.
I called around to get some estimates on a repaint. The lowest one was $3,500 and most came in around $5,000. I think I may just leave it as is for now.
I haven't yet. There's are a few trim pieces on the door that need to be replaced. I'll take everything off before I bring the car in to be repaired.
I think the cold weather may have made the crack worse.
I don't think I ever saw one go like that, wonder if the mirror mount was loose and caused a flexing action? Rust is one think but a crack?
I usually pull the handle or the top of the door to close it... I never, ever grabbed the mirror or window to do that. It looks like someone was using the mirror as a pull handle.
I'm also going to try to pull the oil pan with the engine in the car. Man, there is just no room between the crossmember and the oil pan bolts. I might loosen the motor mounts to give myself some more room.I was going to suggest jacking up the engine while it's still in the car. It's SOP on changing the timing belt/camshaft on the Datsun's motor.
I was going to suggest jacking up the engine while it's still in the car. It's SOP on changing the timing belt/camshaft on the Datsun's motor.
Nuts. I got as far as needing a 1 1/2" (or thereabouts) socket to remove the pulley bolt. Citing the 'close enough' rule, I tried using a 36MM socket I had sitting around and two blocks of wood and the 'bump the starter' trick. I ended up flinging the socket and 1/2" ratchet into the workl light I had been using. The bolt is still fast on there, mocking me and my broken work light.Oh no! :rotf:
Yeah, and I think you're right there, because I don't know if I've got enough room to take this pulley off the nose of the crankshaft with the engine where it sits normally. I need more 'forward' area to pull it away from the crankshaft, and the stupid steering rack is in the way.I think the Ford Crown Vic (the last model) is the same way. I recall someone bitching about a frame crossmember being in the way of the oil pan bolts.
I think the Ford Crown Vic (the last model) is the same way. I recall someone bitching about a frame crossmember being in the way of the oil pan bolts.
I have yet to change out my oil separator material... I can't fit my hand (or a wrench) up from the bottom far enough to unbolt the cover, and I can't see the damn thing from the top. I tried to find some really long wrenches for sale, but they all seem to be the same size.
Does your B have the area on the inner fender well beat out like mine (just left of the alternator)? Every B I've ever seen has that area beat out. I have no idea why.
Over many years I have come to the conclusion that a good engine hoist and transmission jack are probably worth keeping on hand. You could hold a ballroom dance under the hood of my slant six Cuda but barely stuff a piece of twine under the PT Cruiser. I never worked on the Cruiser except maybe to put in oil and wiper fluid but darn it was cramped under there.
Of course a nice lift and heated garage would always be handy to have too.
1: can't see it
2: can't reach it
3: haven't tried it
That doesn't mean much on these cars. Half my work is done by feel. :-)I may have better luck after removing the carburetor.
I may have better luck after removing the carburetor.
That's what I was doing.
It's not the gasket I'm after, it's the filler material inside the oil separator... I think it's clogged. Maybe I should put that new air compressor to use.
The way the oil separator is set up, I wonder if I could just replace it with a standard PCV valve.
Probably not, or I would have seen someone mention it by now. Oh well, back to the stone age... copper scrub pads to the rescue.
The valve from the 280ZX is almost a perfect fit.
I haven't fitted one on, but it looks about the same size. If it's too large, one from a Chevrolet pickup, circa 1981, may fit.
Not yet.
My radio barely put out any sound today. I need to check that.
I had a dim bulb on my last B. One of the grounds on the back was just barely making a connection.I've had this problem before. I think I might have moved some wires around when I was changing out that flasher relay.
I'm not sure what might be wrong with your radio, though. You've got an aftermarket in there though, right?
I've had this problem before. I think I might have moved some wires around when I was changing out that flasher relay.
If you can't fix it, find a bigger hammer.
I can't believe I just watched a six minute video of a guy beating out dents in a tube, and enjoyed it.
I can't believe I just watched a six minute video of a guy beating out dents in a tube, and enjoyed it.Eli does a good job. I'm glad he's not putting his name on the videos anymore, though.
I had my oil changed at one of those quick change places with another car and the son of a bitch swiped my OEM cap and replaced it with a crappy aftermarket one. Bastard.
Nah, this was another car I was driving, like a Toyota or a Buick. I didn't care.
I think my MG cap may be aftermarket. It's got this cheap loop on it that keeps it from falling off.
I called Mallory and got the correct part number for a new cap and rotor and was able to order one (with shipping) for under $40.
Not bad.
Yay, a free oil filler cap. :rofl::censored: :banghead: :censored: Repeat after me "I will never succome to the temptation of letting a quickie oil change place work on my vehicle." Bad! Bad!! Bad!!!, experiences are all I have ever had. They hire the mechanically challenged just for sport. Want the wrong drain plug reinstalled or how about just cross thread it? How about the wrong filter? Oh wait, we can bung up the threads on that too. Yep they can do some awesome things even just driving your vehicle in and out. Scary.
I had my oil changed at one of those quick change places with another car and the son of a bitch swiped my OEM cap and replaced it with a crappy aftermarket one. Bastard.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Caution-Parts-May-Fall-Off-Funny-Vinyl-Car-Van-Sticker-Decal-Jdm-Vag-Euro-Drift-/00/s/MjQ0WDM2Nw==/$(KGrHqZHJB!E-EfS1P36BP)07ofjd!~~60_35.JPG)
1974 MG B GT (http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3512378768.html)
I could buy it... or not. :-)
That won't stay up for long. I wouldn't be surprised if it's already sold.
I'm holding out for a '63 Fairlane or a '68-'82 Corvette. I need an American car to round out my collection.
I would kill for a '68 Vette. I'd even clean the ashtray out.
Gonna be cold this weekend. I was hoping to get the exhaust gaskets on the MG changed out on Saturday/Sunday -- doesn't look like it's going to happen.
I'm going to change out this cheapass fuel filter because I'm seeing some foaming in it and I need something larger that will hold an ource of gas while the engine runs to prevent that from happening.
Yes, that's about the size of it. I don't really know how to describe it. It's a pair of cones with a mesh screen in the middle as a filter. There's no paper element at all.
This morning's drive was a huge improvement over previous ones. It idles fine when it's cold, but I have to run the choke once I start moving or it starves for fuel. It's not nearly as bad as it was before... I had the choke pulled all the way out yesterday and it barely ran above idle. This morning, I only had to pull the choke out about half an inch.
I will definitely check the float bowls for gunk. I hope that takes care of this. My damper cap should be here tomorrow.
I'm sorry your commute was boring. You should try disconnecting a couple of random wires and see what happens.
A thousand dollars later, I got my Camry back. They said something in the transmission "exploded". Not sure what it was... it wasn't anything I did.
Had to leave the MG parked in front of the dumpster at the garage because there wasn't any other parking available. Hope it doesn't get towed until I can get to it tomorrow.
I guess I'm supposed to transfer the brass part from the old damped to the new one. Good thing it's stuck in the carburetor and not missing.
Took a peek in the trunk this afternoon and noticed what looked like a grounding strap (a pair of black wires connected by a loop terminal at the end) was disconnected from a nearby prong attached to the body.
Interesting.
That was easy enough. Problem -- I have a part left over. :rofl:
There's a second weight, it's the lighter-colored brass one nearer to the broken end of the post. There's no way to put it back on with the cap attached to the end of the new damper.
That was easy enough. Problem -- I have a part left over. :rofl:
There's a second weight, it's the lighter-colored brass one nearer to the broken end of the post. There's no way to put it back on with the cap attached to the end of the new damper.
I seem to have another problem. The air flow through the rear carburetor is far lower than the front. The front one is about in the middle on my Unisyn, the rear one barely registers at all.
I may have to pay to have it rebuilt if I can't fix it.
I looked at some 912's... I even considered flying out west to pick one up, but they were out of my budget. I'm really happy with the MG other than it is not really a daily driver, at least not unless you lift weights for a living or live really close to work. A 45-minute commute in this car is not going to be fun in the long term, but that's not why I bought it. I drove this thing to a dozen different stops and back home yesterday and was wore out. By the time I got home, my armpits hurt.I did not own a car with AC or PS until `974, never knew what I was missing :rofl:
I'm missing a manifold gasket since they didn't show up in the mail Friday unless I can find one at Auto Zone.
There's a hole in the intake manifold. Can you believe that shit? I though that was just there to hold the choke cable.
I put the bolt back in the hole and the car runs fine. I'll have to mess with it to get it tuned.
Spending monay, woo woo.
I ordered replacement tail lights (matching ones) and a new gasket for less than $50. The Pace header with the ceramic coating was $300 and another $30 for shipping.
http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/mg/MGEX2.htm
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/Discuss_zps8e6bcea2.jpg)
:rofl:
Sure am glad I took these pictures, because I forgot how those cables were supposed to go back on.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/throttle_zpsbcc72a94.jpg)
Is that bolt twisted into that hose on the balance tube the correct thread for that application? :lmao: :tongue:It was like that when I bought it. :p
Look at this filthy thing.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/FLHsuspension_sm_zps64187176.jpg)
*grumble, grumble*
The nut holding the kingpin in the swivel axle won't budge. It's supposed to come off but heating it up didn't do anything. I'm soaking it in some homemade penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone-ATF).
Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.Ford Truck Enthusiasts (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/897615-best-penetrating-oil-test-surprise-winner.html)
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
I'm starting to think this is all a joke and the castle nut is part of the swivel axle and isn't supposed to come off.
What the heck is that thing?
Success! I finally got the castle nut off the top of the kingpin. I had to put it back on the car and use a four-foot breaker bar to crack the damn thing.
Now how the hell do I remove the trunion? :thatsright:
Nice. :whatever:
The new fulcrum pin (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020&SortOrder=1160#top) I got from Moss Motors, the one that holds the trunion to the lever shock, is supposed to have a hole drilled in it for a cotter pin. The hole is only drilled out halfway. Better check the other half of my kit and see if I can use that one.
Supposed to rain Saturday. Looks like my new suspension has been delayed another week. The good news, the replacement feels nice and tight. I suppose this is a good thing... I dropped one of the nuts attached to a bolt on the lever shock and can't find it.
I tried to find a suitable replacement at the hardware store and didn't have any luck. I finally broke down and called NOS Parts who rebuilds them. I got called out for losing it, but he did tell me replacement nuts and bolts are 3/8x24. Ain't my fault my driveway is the same color as 40-year-old nuts and screws. Besides, those things bounce when you drop them. :-)
It's the Queen's English.
She doesn't know jack about cars.
Does anyone have any experience with Naval Jelly? My rotors look pretty bad with surface rust so I picked up a jar.
I'll take some pictures later.
Does anyone have any experience with Naval Jelly? My rotors look pretty bad with surface rust so I picked up a jar.
I'll take some pictures later.
It's on the machined surface. It was like that when I pulled them off.
:yahoo: Success. I only got one wheel done, but it's a big improvement. The other wheel is still erratic and shaky but driveable.
I think I may have FUBAR'd my choke cable.
I think it started to unwind after I disconnected it. Now it's all bunched up inside the sheath. I'll have to yank it out and pick up a replacement cable from the bicycle shop down the street.
I'm considering upgrading my brake lights to LEDs. I don't feel that the 1157 incandescent is very visible during the day, at least not with some of the brake-checks I get from the cars behind me.
I love this neighborhood. The main street intersects with another highway that turns off to a twisty side road that turns back on to the main street. It's like a personal race track. I had the same thing in my last neighborhood. It's enough to get you car up to temperature and wring out any problems.
Supposed to rain Monday, but I think I can drive it for the rest of the week.
It's supposed to be sunny for the rest of the week. I don't care if one wheel shakes like a bad shopping cart, I'm going for a drive.
Those jack stands you have always make me nervous when I ever use them. I always second guess myself on if they are locked in or not.
I have a pair like that but I rarely use them. I use the set that has a pin that goes all the way through.
The machine shop got the old kingpin out. :yahoo:
Now I can put the other half of my suspension back together.
Wow! They didn't even charge me for doing that. I like that kind of service.
Well, this kind of sucks. I got everything put back together and the top of the kingpin won't line up with the top of the shock. I wonder if I bent something.
edit: I remember what I did. This time, I put the bottom end of the axle/kingpin in first. Last time, I put the top end in first and was able to slide the bottom part into place. Looks like I'll have to undo the whole thing again.
I think I may have found the problem.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/camber_zpscb82c773.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/kayaktn/media/1973%20MG%20B/camber_zpscb82c773.jpg.html)
:thatsright:
Wow, I really screwed up on that one. I put the trunion on backward (the rounded side faces outward).
I've got everything reassembled and lined up. I'm taking a break before putting the final nuts and bolts on.
My headlights stopped working. :whatever:
Tried that. No luck.
They worked with the engine off. Once I started it, they went out again.
It looks like the ground wire in the trunk is supposed to be held on with a nut. There's no nut there. I haven't checked the front of the car yet.
Huh. They're working now. :???:
Is it still doing it?
I was accosted by some dude walking down the street that started telling me these bullshit stories about his high school glory days.(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/dummieland/rico_zps9bf6b2d3.jpeg)
Hm, much improved. I was using the tire pressure listed for radial tires... it was too low (27 front, 32 rear). I bumped it up to 34 front and 36 rear (cold). Very nice.
I stopped and looked at an MG T that a local car dealer had for sale. No price listed, but it looked nice. It was sitting next to an AMC Marlin and a Mercedes 560 SEL. I was accosted by some dude walking down the street that started telling me these bullshit stories about his high school glory days.
:lmao:
I could have bought a Bug Eye Sprite with a Chevy in-line six and 3 speed stick in it. I said no, even though it was only $200.Half of me wants this car... the other half wants to run away screaming.
It was a mangled mess. :p
Half of me wants this car... the other half wants to run away screaming.
http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3790498099.html
Check out that glove compartment.
Hell, the drive train is almost worth it. Almost.Depends. I live in a smog-controlled county that uses EPA/CARB rules for engine swaps. If they removed all the original Chevrolet emissions parts, used a pre-1982 SBC, or a truck motor, forget it.
:overreaction:
Oh Dear God, :overreaction:
A wise man once said, "Not everything that can be done should."
Oh my. That's quite an interesting shifter you got there.
http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3828832864.html
Wow. At first, I thought you were being sarcastic, because I didn't see a shifter. I just wasn't looking in the wrong place.
At least he put in a Buick 455, instead of a Chevy Olds Pontiac lump. The Buick 455 is my favorite of the B-O-P lot.
Why the Buick?
I kinda favored the Olds 455 myself....
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.htmlGot it. It was on sale... I didn't have to pay any sales tax.
The Buick 455 is lighter than either the Olds or Pontiac variant, weighing in only a few pounds more than a Chevrolet 350. The Buick also had the shortest stroke of the three.
If we're talking Oldsmobile, I'd take a Rocket 425 over the 455. :-)
Interesting. I was just reading that the Buick weighs 40 lbs. less than the Olds. Both, according to at least one person, have oiling problems.
Another source says that the Buick has the distributor up front, versus the Olds. Oh, well.
Back to your MG discussion. :-)
That MG T is gone. It didn't last long, maybe a week.
The Marlin is still there. It has an excellent paint job, but it's so fugly (and large).
I went to go pick up a bunch of MG parts one time in OKC with my brother. When we got down there, the guy had a bunch of cars in various states that he was also selling. He had a T there. I never liked them before, but then I saw one in person. Mistake!
I almost left there with a Morris Minor estate that he had for sale.
Why the Buick?
I kinda favored the Olds 455 myself....
Drove the MG to work today. Definitely need new shocks, but it ran great otherwise. :II:
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/4166690569.html
Oh dear.
Ok, I don't use this word lightly, but WHAT THE ****???
TELL me you sent that to Hooniverse!!
Ok, I don't use this word lightly, but WHAT THE ****???I didn't, but they've probably already seen it.
TELL me you sent that to Hooniverse!!
:II:
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-bXj0aYTQg[/youtube]
My B needs a new set of wheel bearings. I think I ****ed them up after taking the hubs apart. I've got some bad wheel shake above 55 mph.
Merry Christmas from my B to yours.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img202/1691/82wr.jpg)
I think it looks sort of like a demented green nightmare of a reindeer with the red nose of a drunk. At least people can see me when I'm beside them now- or at least my antlers.
That's also ice you see. At least it didn't stick to the roads.
I've seen the antlers and nose on a couple of cars around here this year.
Just found this.
LOL he could have used the CORRECT tool like a dial bore gauge with an extended tip and mag base.A who and a what?
LOL he could have used the CORRECT tool like a dial bore gauge with an extended tip and mag base.
A dial bore gauge would be applicable if the head were removed.
This is awesome. :rofl:
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Aw7IdW4Qxcc[/youtube]
TDC on the exhaust stroke is 180 degrees off from the compression stroke. Your engine would never start.
Did you get your new Moss catalog? 15% off!*
*if you buy $1000 or more
I'm going to have to replace the entire exhaust. The header I bought just doesn't cut it... it's noisy and it leaks.
The bumper conversion isn't very difficult if you can weld (I can't). Cut a little here, weld a little there, reposition your indicator lights (more cutting and welding), and install the chrome bumper and hardware.
There's the whole ride height issue, but I don't think that was done until 1975. This one might have been spared.
Yeah, I did the conversion on my first B, at least most of it. Somebody was kind enough to total it for me before I finished the job.Could be worse. You could have Leepu buy a GT with your money and cut the roof off to make a convertible.
Could be worse. You could have Leepu buy a GT with your money and cut the roof off to make a convertible.
I need to get this thing back into town to get the crack of doom fixed. I'm wondering if I need to replace the master cylinder since it has been spitting up fluid into the driver footwell.
Does anyone sell a 12mm crowfoot socket? Every store I went to sold either 11 or 13. :mad:I have cut tools and welded things to them to make the special tools needed for a specific job.
Another completely useless day wasted.
I took the bad wheel (front right) to be balanced. The guy said there was a flat spot on it and adjusted the wheel weight to compensate. Since it's off the car, I'll probably paint it this week since I don't have much else going on.
I have cut tools and welded things to them to make the special tools needed for a specific job.I would love it if I could cut a 12mm socket down the side, but I'm afraid I might hurt myself. The only thing I have is a table saw.
Rather expensive sometimes but it's quick and works.
I would love it if I could cut a 12mm socket down the side, but I'm afraid I might hurt myself. The only thing I have is a table saw.Side grinder and time? ....definitely not the table saw.
I would love it if I could cut a 12mm socket down the side, but I'm afraid I might hurt myself. The only thing I have is a table saw.
Side grinder and time? ....definitely not the table saw.I could do that. I have one in the garage.
You might be able to make the 11mm crow's foot work if you have a good file and/or a Dremel.I could, but the car is stuck in Columbia at the moment (yeah, that was a bad decision). Very limited resources and almost no tools.
I could, but the car is stuck in Columbia at the moment (yeah, that was a bad decision). Very limited resources and almost no tools.
I'm really worried about boogering-up the hydraulic fitting. I did that on one of my Camrys.
Mostly below. I was able to remove the retaining nut from the top, but threading the hard line back into the hose isn't happening either way.
That's it on the left. Looks like I should probably remove the starter. That should make it easier.
Taking the starter out would give you more room. Can you loosen any of the clips holding the hard line in place above that fitting, to give you some room to make adjustments down there?There's enough flex in the line for me to move it around and up and down. I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning, and threading the hose up from the bottom. I was trying to do it from the top down with a wrench but couldn't put enough downward pressure on it to start threading it into the hose.
I didn't realize that was the starter. Everything under my car is the same uniform black color... there's nothing distinguishable from another part down there.
I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning,
Are you trying to leave openings for the other guys here reasons to make fun of us? "That's because it's all covered in oil!" :rotf: :-)
Can you hold it with one wrench and just wrap a piece of tape around the line and the nut to keep it from spinning? One less wrench might give you more room.
I was thinking of holding the hydraulic fitting in place with a pair of wrenches to keep it from spinning, and threading the hose up from the bottom.It worked. :II:
Clutch master cylinder.
Mine has a SMALL leak on the clutch master. I haven't bothered to see where it's going yet.The current one has failed around the pushrod seal or whatever's closest to it. It squirts onto the floor mat (and your shoes) and onto the inner fender.
The current one has failed around the pushrod seal or whatever's closest to it. It squirts onto the floor mat (and your shoes) and onto the inner fender.
Once I get this thing sorted out and back into town, it's going straight to JD's for rust repair and off to the paint shop.
Yes. I like it.
I'm just wondering if I want to get it patched up or a total respray. There are a couple of worn/scratched areas, some small chips, and a spot of missing clearcoat on the hood.
I would take it to the shop, and have them give you an honest appraisal.It's a side job from a friend that knows a guy. Retail is $3-5k for a complete respray.
Without looking at it, I would suggest a total respray, since the clear is lifting in an area.
It's a side job from a friend that knows a guy. Retail is $3-5k for a complete respray.
Not that I'm aware of. I don't use the mirror or window as a pull handle.Don't let anyone else get close, those will be the first thing someone else will grab.
This looks nice. I wonder if it improves anything or just looks pretty.
They're in good condition. There's almost no rust on this car.
Paint is another story, though.
Argh. Now it won't start.
I don't get it. It fired up fine yesterday. It turned over this morning but didn't start after a couple seconds, so I stopped turning the key. Now I get nothing. Everything else works, just no starter. I replaced the starter relay but I still get nothing. Battery is 12.4v but I did not check the ground cable.
Nothing was changed from yesterday.
I was driving through Ft. Campbell a while back and blindly following my GPS back to the highway.
Starter relay:
W1 = white/red
W2 = black
C1 = brown
C2 = brown/white
85 = W1
86 = W2
30 = C1
87 = C2
I was driving through Ft. Campbell a while back and blindly following my GPS back to the highway. Damn thing ran me into a dead end. I slammed on my brakes and nearly ended up in a ditch.
I didn't slide very far and was able to back out.
The condenser wire and coil ground wire are both toast.They didn't have legs.
Time to order replacements.
Absolutely. Just as soon as I feel like spending the money for one (some time this year).
Pretty sure I ****ed up the carburetors again. Sputtering, backfiring, near-stalling. This is frustrating. I'm still not hearing the fuel pump tick over on startup (the usual tick-tick, glug-glug sound isn't there). I've got a replacement in the garage.
My ColorTune shipped this morning.
I'm driving the MG today and had to make a trip to the customer care site 12 miles up the road. I guess I wasn't paying attention to my fuel gauge and ran low on gas and the fuel pump overheated. I gave it a couple of thumps just to be sure but after refilling the tank and letting the car sit for half an hour, everything seems to be okay.
On my way home from work is when I had the sputtering and backfiring... ended up cutting through the parts store parking lot to avoid the right turn at the intersection.
I don't believe it. The rubber catch that holds the sun visor in place fell off and the damn thing is riveted to the window frame. I'm going to have to drill out the rivet to replace it.
In the interim, I'm just going to take the sun visors off and store them.
Just imagine the amount of fuel you added to the MG stereotype to anyone inside the auto parts store by doing this^^^. :lmao:I managed to coast through the parking lot without running anyone over or stalling. The trouble doesn't start until you step on the gas.
I managed to coast through the parking lot without running anyone over or stalling. The trouble doesn't start until you step on the gas.
I felt bad because someone complimented me on the car as I was passing through.
I'm taking the visors off. I'll have Mr. Damon (JD's British Cars) deal with it when I take my car to his shop to have the Crack of Doom and the rebound strap mounts repaired.
Painted. I'm not looking to add more spaces where rust can hang out.
You know, I really like the MG, but I enjoyed working on the Datsun so much more. I want another 280ZX, but it has to be the right one.
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1982-Datsun-280ZX-1537105.xhtml?conversationId=861115
Well, this kinda sucks. The factory wiring for the fuel pump has a loop on the end of each wire that screws onto the positive terminal and the ground. The replacement fuel pump doesn't have any connectors, only a pair of wires and no installation instructions.
So you also have to have a set of current design plates for daily use?Nope, you can have AA tags or you can have regular tags, but not both. I've had to surrender my previous plate every time I changed the registration.
That's kind of dumb. I don't think vintage tags would be worth the trouble where you are at.
I was under the impression that after a car was 20 years old it automatically qualified for classic status. Then at 30 years old, antique. Not sure about vintage.
Nope, you can have AA tags or you can have regular tags, but not both. I've had to surrender my previous plate every time I changed the registration.
As far as my state is concerned, the cutoff is 25 years and there can't be any modifications to the engine, but they never do a physical inspection.
Grumble, grumble.
Replaced both the starter relay and the brake light switch. The lights continue to come on as soon as you turn the key and the motor will spin but not fire.
I'm trying to remove the ground strap between the body and motor (it looks like its come unwound) but the nut on the front of the engine just spins and will not come off.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/motormountandgrndstrap2_zps24bac907.jpg)
I bypassed the starting switch and relay using the John Twist method. Still cranking but will not run. I'm getting fuel... I can see it in the filter and smell it in the carburettors. I haven't checked for a spark yet. Can you "blow" a coil? I heard a loud pop before the engine quit running, and I don't think it a carb backfire.
The plugs are pretty sooty, but they are new (replaced them last year and put less than thousand miles on them since) and should be gapped correctly.
Dammit. I think I blew out the O2 bung again.
Dammit. I think I blew out the O2 bung again. This is the second (third?) time it's happened.
Where the hell is the transmission dipstick? Is it really behind the radio?
The rubber-bumper (1974-1/2) model is usually considered "later", but some sources consider those the 1977-1980 models.
I thought the dipstick/fill hole was on the side of the transmission tunnel. I'm not sure what's under those plugs, though.
What is it with loose wires?
I "fixed" the lights on the right rear quarter. I grabbed a handful of wires and moved them around.
I finally found the fill-hole for the rear shocks. They seem to be in fairly good condition.
My next purchase will probably be new seat covers and foam. The current seats are so uncomfortable.
I wish I had held on to that Nissan 5-speed I had. It would be perfect for this car.
I can probably get another one.
If memory serves me, there is a plug on the transmission tunnel under the carpet on the passenger side that you can access the fill plug from.On the pre-'68 models, there is. I pulled both plugs from the side of the transmission tunnel and there's no dipstick under either of them.
I'm curious now, so I'll just head out to the garage and look right now.My garage is crammed full of other crap.
Tab A does not fit in to Slot B.
In a situation like that, dynamite will fix it.
Heh! I've found dynamite is too hard to come by! Diesel fuel and 21-0-0 is a shit load cheaper!
Check off another entry to the NSA/DHS watchlist. :rofl:
The MG is ready. Just needs a bath. :yahoo:
Don't forget to take a picture, and post it.I'm trying to find one of those "free" charity car washes... it's pretty grubby. They should be all over the place by now, but I haven't seen any this year.
Tun signal switch stopped working. There goes another $200.Stick your arm out the window.
Stick your arm out the window.The turn signal switch also controls the headlights. :-)
The turn signal switch also controls the headlights. :-)
I ordered a bunch of other stuff. The switch was only $80.
They were doing that back in '73? A lot of American cars still had the pull out switch on the dash and a button on the floor for high beams.There's an on/off switch on the dashboard. The turn signal lever has a two-position brightness switch. The bright headlights work now, but the regular ones do not.
It's 2015. The Toyota Camry is still being sold with drum brakes.
Time to start shopping for a paint job, but my limit is $4k. I'd like to keep it around $3k.
There are some rough spots on a couple of repainted areas (base/clear over single-stage) that has completely chipped away, and some rust bubbling up from the rocker panels. I'll be stripping the car myself and doing some DA sanding in the driveway.
A previous owner decided to respray the car from the doors forward with base/clear. The rear half of the car is original single-stage paint, but the clearcoat on the front is peeling like a bad sunburn. There are rust bubbles on the rocker panels and the "new" paint on the hood has completely chipped off in places.
Patina paint if the current paint is original.
A few clear coats will protect it for some time to come.
What color are you painting it?I'm leaving it the same color (Bronze Yellow).
I'm leaving it the same color (Bronze Yellow).Is that the sorta butterscotch yellow?
Is that the sorta butterscotch yellow?Yep.
Yep.Nice color.
I'm tempted to replace the hot-as-fire, leg-burning vinyl seats with seat upholstery that has black fabric inserts. I'm sure most of you remember climbing into your car with vinyl seats in the middle of summer and losing a few layers of skin. It's even less fun in a convertible.
I'll be rebuilding the collapsed seats with new foam and it's my car anyway. I think it might be an improvement.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildbldghT1w[/youtube]
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I could have had the brakes done a month ago... that foot-long steel brake line on the passenger side was completely clogged. It took a metal bicycle cable, a can of brake cleaner, a 150 PSI air compressor, and some some funkadelic Halloween-colored pipe cleaner to clear. The rest of the brake system is fine because I've already taken the time to bleed all of it.
If I can get everything else done by tomorrow afternoon, I can start stripping the car for paint next week.
I never claimed to be a mechanic. Now you have proof.
edit: It's nice that Moss Motors keeps track of your orders. One of these days, I will add up all the money I've sent them.
I think Pops painted his phone along with the car. :p
Still missing a passenger seat and a radio. I didn't get the car back until after noon today and the floors are still wet. :(That car looks great! Wonderful!
That bumper looks crooked as shit from this angle.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/kayaktn/1973%20MG%20B/PICT0038_zpsr6yrudu4.jpg)
What sort of tires are you running on?The same tires I've had for the last 2-3 years, the ones I bought new. I should probably check the pressure. Radial tires are supposed to be 24-26 PSI... they're probably 32 or higher right now.
That sucks.I should have thought of that when I was ordering spare parts. I probably could have bought half a dozen of them for what this is going to cost me. I just hope I can get back home in time to be back at work.
I switched to a Pertronix setup inside a rebushed OEM distributor for that reason.
Ugh. You could visit the Truman Library as long as you're in Independence. :shucks:I'm considering stopping by the WWI memorial.
If you want, I can pull the ignition setup off of my B and put it on yours so that you can make it home OK. I don't need to drive my car right now, so you won't be inconveniencing me.I appreciate it, but you don't have to. I can come back here next week if I have to.
Does that distributor just have mechanical advance (no vacuum)?Correct.
Yeah, you need to rustle up a 25D and throw it on there.What is the difference?
I had one of those Mallory jobs when I first bought my B, and sold it. It looked nice, but as I recalled (correctly), no vacuum advance.
Heh. What was the reasoning they gave?"Kept blowin' points." :whatever:
If you want, I can pull the ignition setup off of my B and put it on yours so that you can make it home OK. I don't need to drive my car right now, so you won't be inconveniencing me.Would you be willing to send your distributor to the guys in Illinois? I'll pay for your shipping. I'd like to be able to get my car back this weekend, but I will need to rent a car to get back up there. I can return it to you as soon as I get my car back home.
I've got so much shit out in my garage, I can't even remember what I have anymore.Next day. Shipping shouldn't be more than $50. I'll call them and let them know to expect it. Hopefully it will be ready by Friday and I can make arrangements to pay them and drive it home by Monday.
I didn't find the one I was looking for, but I did find an unused rebuilt 25D 41491 from Advanced Distributors.
Do you want me to next day or second day it to them?
Next day. Shipping shouldn't be more than $50. I'll call them and let them know to expect it. Hopefully it will be ready by Friday and I can make arrangements to pay them and drive it home by Monday.
Wait, you have an extra distributor lying around? Jesus. The cheapest one I could find was $150.
I-64E, exit 14 (IL HWY 50).
At least I was able to find a spot in the shade.
You dodged a bullet there by about ten minutes.I was "that guy" driving an old car that ran like shit, popping and backfiring with my hazard lights on for a dozen miles. I barely made it out of St. Louis.
I was "that guy" driving an old car that ran like shit, popping and backfiring with my hazard lights on for a dozen miles. I barely made it out of St. Louis.
I would have been sweating profusely. I'm sure you managed to nearly get ran over several times for each one of those dozen miles.I did the last five miles on the shoulder praying I wouldn't get arrested.
Thanks. Let me know when you can ship it so I can tell those guys to expect it.
It left here today, so it should be there tomorrow.I'll call them tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Got a call from Simons today. They said the old Mallory distributor is "stuck" and they are going to have to break it to get it out.
Never having taken one out, I'm a little confused.
I remember getting off the plane on the tarmac at Heathrow, before they forced everyone to deplane at the terminal. Grey. Cold, dark and grey as far as the eye could see. If it had been the United States with a sky like that, you could have expected 2-3 inches of rain in an hour, but the weather never changed. It just was like that... cold and grey with some drizzle or the constant wetness that never seemed to stop.
Cold and grey. Sometimes, being stuck in the north Atlantic has it's drawbacks. Hyde Park is an amazing feat of gardening and landscaping, though. The grass was perfectly manicured and soft.
And grey.Yes.
99% sure that seized to the block at the base.
Why didn't they use a tiny slide hammer to get it out?
Patience (applied with penetrating oi) is a virtue. Heat is nice too. But that looks more like " that mother &@#!! 's coming outa there NOW!!"I was billed for roughly 3 hours of labor. I don't think 'patience' is in their dictionary when they're getting paid by the hour.
I was billed for roughly 3 hours of labor. I don't think 'patience' is in their dictionary when they're getting paid by the hour.
I missed the annual car show today. It would have been nice to have more than 24 hours notice.
Ok, now that would cheese me off."Cheesed" isn't the word I would use. I wonder what else he cut corners on that I paid him for.
It's blue. :rofl:
All of the labels have worn on. I won't say it looks new, it's definitely been there for a while. The previous owner claimed to have the car for five years and I've had it for the last three.
Well, ****. My battery's dead and the carburetors are leaking around the base plates - both of them. I don't know if they're overflowing or just loose.