Author Topic: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport  (Read 8250 times)

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Offline Bad Dog

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #25 on: June 24, 2013, 10:31:32 PM »
"What would the instrumental panel have to do with the electronic door locks and how in the hell could it affect the manual locking of the door?"

There you go thinking like a human again.  I have no idea. I could guess but it would confuse the issue.  If you have the cluster out you might be able to take it to a dealer and have it tested.

Offline ChuckJ

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #26 on: June 27, 2013, 04:45:16 PM »
Okay. Here is where I'm at now.

According to the multimeter only 2 of the 20 wires that connect to the cluster have power. I'm sure that some of the 20 are grounds and would have no power, but I assume that all of the remaining 18 aren't grounds which leads me to assume that it is a wiring problem and not the instrument panel.

Here's where things get squirrelly.

Below is a diagram of the interior fuse panel. Fuse 9 is shown as being on the circuit with the instrument cluster. According to the multimeter this particular fuse is getting power, but fuses 3 through 7 are NOT getting power. I tested them kind of rushed because we look to have some bad weather rolling in. Maybe I just wasn't getting a good connection. I'll test them again in the morning.

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Offline Bad Dog

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #27 on: June 27, 2013, 05:27:44 PM »
Most of the wires going to the cluster probably are signal wires & wouldn't be powered unless the car is running .  You should be able to match the color coding coming out of the fuse box to the connector wires to ID the inst. power wire/wires.  Ground wires are pretty much either solid black or black with a stripe.  If one or both of the two hot wires you have now are inst. power wires your problem may well be the cluster.

Offline ChuckJ

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #28 on: June 27, 2013, 06:49:12 PM »
I had it on, but I hadn't thought about actually having it running. I tried it again with it running and with everything that I could think of turned on.

Below is a diagram. There are three wires that are black. All three with a different colored stripe. The wires labeled "TS" are apparently the turn signal indicators because the meter would jump from 0-12 as the blinkers flashed. I have the lower right-hand wire in the left connector labeled "0-1" because no matter how I worked the connection the reading would fluctuate between 1 and 0.

Since the dash light works I'm assuming that one of the wires getting power is going to the dash light. Since the highbeam indicator light and door ajar indicator light work I assume that either one or two of the other wires getting power serve those. The only indicator light that I didn't think to check before I pulled the instrument panel was the emergency brake light.

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Offline ChuckJ

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2013, 11:35:20 AM »
Here's the latest update. I've purchased a service manual. Below are the pin assignments for the cluster connectors.



Below is a wiring diagram.



Since I'm getting power to the Fused B(+) and the the Fused Ignition Switch Output (Start/run) does that mean the panel itself is screwed?


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Offline Bad Dog

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #30 on: June 29, 2013, 01:46:59 PM »
 Starting to sound like it.  Your dealer may be able to test it or, if by some miracle, you know some one with the same vehicle, you could plug it into theirs.

Offline ChuckJ

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #31 on: June 29, 2013, 03:06:43 PM »
I've been running through the diagnostics list in the service manual. One of the steps involved reinstalling the instrument panel and engaging the emergency brake to see if the brake indicator on the instrumental panel is functioning. When I reinstalled the panel everything began working.

I turned it off and on several times and it worked each time. I drove it to town and back. It worked except for when I was on a very bumpy dirt road. Of course, I didn't have it screwed into place. I just had the two connectors connected.

Is it possible that the connectors had just enough oxidation (or whatever) on them to prevent a good connection and the friction of my repeatedly connecting and disconnecting the panel scraped some of the oxidation off?
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Offline Bad Dog

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #32 on: June 30, 2013, 11:08:31 AM »
This is why I hate electrical problems.  They make tools to clean the connectors.  Radio shack might be a good source.  Also for the final connection a liberal coat of silicone grease helps prevent corrosion.

Also, trace your ground wires to where they connect to the body & clean & grease them.

Offline ChuckJ

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #33 on: July 01, 2013, 04:14:05 PM »
This is getting to be more of a headache than I wanted.

It's back to not working. I cleaned everything. I didn't get any grease. I also haven't checked the ground wire because of the weather.

I had a thought that may or may not be correct. I figured since I now know the pin/wire assignments on the panel itself that I could set the multimeter to ohms, touch the black lead to the ground pin and the red lead to the Fused B(+) pin and then to the Fused Ignition Switch Output pin to see if there was a good circuit. I'm not getting one on those two lines, but I am getting a circuit on the things that I know are working which would bring me back to a screwed instrumental panel.

Based on the wiring diagram both the Fused B and Fused Ignition appear to be tied into both ground pins. At least it looks so to me.

Does the above make sense?
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Offline Bad Dog

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Re: Automotive fuse box help - Jeep Cherokee Sport
« Reply #34 on: July 01, 2013, 05:21:25 PM »
This is getting to be more of a headache than I wanted.

It's back to not working. I cleaned everything. I didn't get any grease. I also haven't checked the ground wire because of the weather.

I had a thought that may or may not be correct. I figured since I now know the pin/wire assignments on the panel itself that I could set the multimeter to ohms, touch the black lead to the ground pin and the red lead to the Fused B(+) pin and then to the Fused Ignition Switch Output pin to see if there was a good circuit. I'm not getting one on those two lines, but I am getting a circuit on the things that I know are working which would bring me back to a screwed instrumental panel.

Based on the wiring diagram both the Fused B and Fused Ignition appear to be tied into both ground pins. At least it looks so to me.

Does the above make sense?

You are getting beyond my expertise (shade tree mechanic).  However, the ohm meter is to measure resistance so you don't want to use it on a hot wire. I think you would want to use the volt meter to check a positive circuit.  You could check the ground circuits by connecting the ohm meter to the ground wire/wires at the connector and any good ground point on the frame like a screw or bolt head.  Low resistance = good ground.